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"400" repair


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13 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi Andy, I used this:

https://www.hbm-machines.com/producten/automotive/automotive-gereedschap-1/motorcompartiment-1/cilinder-en-zuiger-gereedschap/hbm-zuigerveer-compressor-set-1

But I saw a video with that tool you used and the piston slides nice into the engine block. 

Looks like a good one and easier than those band ones 🙂

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Porting the head, did not grind a lot away. Just making the curves smooth, also on the seems of the casting: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The "400" had some things to do after months of staying in the oldtimer storage. Looked as the AFM had some problems but before solving that problem I wanted to be sure the electronical ignition is ok

Sorry, not done a lot... The engine and gearbox are in the car. Wanted to fit them as usually together but the cable hoist was making weird noises when I lifted the engine with gearbox. I learned in t

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Some time ago I posted something on this topic. Didn't do that much but more thinking & improvising...First problem: The oil pump gears! Opened the Risse Oil Pump and noticed the gears are not in a good condition. Never had any problems with the oil pressure but you can see why I was surprised:

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They look worn and the clearance was also a bit too much. I am not a fan of those big oil pumps cause a standard pump gives enough oil as long it is in good condition. I have another set of gears but looking for new ones... 

Fitted the chain guides on the engine block and also a new oil seal in the timing house:

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The engine ready to fit the timing house:

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Timing house & water pump fitted:

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Looks like a normal CIH:

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Hmm, think not:

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With the head on the engine I checked the valve clearance again, and I had a lot of work to set them. Had to mix a lot of measurments (and shims) to end that I have three valves that are too tiny so those shims need to be  replaced... Did this some time ago with the head before fitting on the engine...Think I replaced those cams 6 times, why not!

Last Friday I bitten my dental filling in pieces so after more than a week I can visit my dentist next tuesday. The pain is killing me but now I'm going to drink a beer!

Have all a nice weekend and stay safe!

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, H-400 said:

Some time ago I posted something on this topic. Didn't do that much but more thinking & improvising...First problem: The oil pump gears! Opened the Risse Oil Pump and noticed the gears are not in a good condition. Never had any problems with the oil pressure but you can see why I was surprised:

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They look worn and the clearance was also a bit too much. I am not a fan of those big oil pumps cause a standard pump gives enough oil as long it is in good condition. I have another set of gears but looking for new ones... 

Fitted the chain guides on the engine block and also a new oil seal in the timing house:

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The engine ready to fit the timing house:

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Timing house & water pump fitted:

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Looks like a normal CIH:

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Hmm, think not:

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With the head on the engine I checked the valve clearance again, and I had a lot of work to set them. Had to mix a lot of measurments (and shims) to end that I have three valves that are too tiny so those shims need to be  replaced... Did this some time ago with the head before fitting on the engine...Think I replaced those cams 6 times, why not!

Last Friday I bitten my dental filling in pieces so after more than a week I can visit my dentist next tuesday. The pain is killing me but now I'm going to drink a beer!

Have all a nice weekend and stay safe!

 

 

 

Looking good Herman and beer always helps 🙂

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Looked around for info about those long oil pump gears and they seem to like to "dance" in the oil pump house, checked also the clearance between the gears and the bottom plate. They had too much play so it had probably some effect on the condition the gears are at this moment. 

After some measuring I'm going to replace 5 shims, not sure I'm going to order them @ Risse or looking for a local shop that can grind them perfectly. If the surface is not 100% flat it will push the cam follower out of the centre in the aluminium head.  

A pic of checking the clearance of the cranckshaft, Nasa proved technology:

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And some parts of Edelschmiede arrived:

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Have a nice Sunday

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Got a engineering shop to grain down some cam shaft sims as l had a head gas flowed ect could not get a sim to fit

Was spot on had no problems 

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Been a while, finally I could visit the dentist. He had to denerv the tooth, a molar. Not something your waiting for... And if it was not enough I slipped in the bathroom and fell on the border of the bathtub with my chest. Happened more in the past in the army so I knew a visit to the ER or a doctor won't help. Not laughing, sleeping on my back and so on... 

The shop that did my engine block and the head helped me with the shims, no problem:

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Fitted them and checked the clearance, as Bandid would say "spot on"👍. Everything is torqued, the sprockets of the cams and fitted the covers of the cams with new gaskets. The camcover/inlet is placed so no debris can fall in the engine. Got to open it again before starting to oil the chain:

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Am waiting for the oilsump, want to weld the baffle plate with a TIG, cause that doesn't make that much residu as MIG. So began again with the gearbox. Cleaning the surface and the bolts, preparing to fit the new oilseal:

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Pressing the new oilseal in the alu plate:

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Everyting is back assembled with a new gasket and sealer, tomorrow the other side. 

Grts, Herman

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Thanks trooker, had to change the front brakediscs and pads of the Insignia. Never took so long.  

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55 minutes ago, H-400 said:

Thanks trooker, had to change the front brakediscs and pads of the Insignia. Never took so long.  

Ouch, no wonder! Guess those army years mean you’re not wired to take it easy for a few weeks & let someone else do it either. 

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Trooker, think you'v got a point. About the army: The media is full of that Belgian "Rambo" who is hiding in the woods, heard about that? 

Back on topic: Old oilseal out and new in:

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Glued the dipstick-tube in the engine block, don't want it to fall down:

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The baffle plate in the oilsump:

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And fitted on the engine, tried first a complete rubber gasket I bought in Germany but wasn't a tight fit so back to original:

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Done some porting on the cilinderhead but it won't help without working on the outlet manifold. So I used again the bigger Risse outlet-gaskets as a template to grind the inside of the manifold:

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Did this outside cause I don't want the metal residu of grinding in my garage. Also cause working on the bench hurts too much with those damaged ribs... 

Edited by H-400
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And yes again some time ago... The outlet manifold on the engine:

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Took the engine out and on a stand with wheels so I can fit the clutch etc. Picture of the crankshaft seals: The black one is a normal CIH one, the brown one "400". You can see the difference. Got the original partnr. of this seal but not available anymore, so I asked someone on this forum (privacy is important) for help and he gave me the new partnr. and I found out it is the same seal as a diesel engine and the 3.0-24V engine. So again thanks for the info, this shows how important this forum is:

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Seal fitted:

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And the flywheel mark "1" fits the "1" on the clutch :

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And then I listened to the advice of Trooker, took some time off cause those ribs do adapt the position of my body and hurts my back/spine. Had problems with doing the dishes...

After some time I did a project together with my neighbour that wasn't so difficult, but completely off topic. Got great neighbours and think it is important. Think the pics will show what we did:

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And open:

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I'm the one on the right, man not so long ago I ran a half marathon 😥...

So a few days ago I went back into my garage, cleaned the clutch house and noticed the original clutch bearing is dry and worn. Looked into my "shed" and found another one in good condition. Look at the clutch arm, it is not a steel pressed one but a cast iron one as some 6 cilinders have:

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Cleaned the engine bay and also the "swann-necks" , nice to see everything is free of rust. Look at the engine mounts; they are the same as the 6-inline:

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Have all a nice weekend

 

 

 

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Sorry, not done a lot... The engine and gearbox are in the car. Wanted to fit them as usually together but the cable hoist was making weird noises when I lifted the engine with gearbox. I learned in the technical military school a metal cable can have 1100kg/ cm diameter so my hoist is a 2/1 with a 3mm cable so it must be possible but if it is a China product I didn't take any risk. So I fitted the engine with the bellhouse, this because those bolts between engine & bellhouse are difficult to get by cause of that big 16V head. 

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After that I wanted to fit the gearbox as usually on my belly and lift it up but no those ribs still are complaining. Rebuilded my car jack with a wooden plate and some big bolts so I used it as a transmission jack. The gearbox slided without problems into the bellhouse:

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After that fitting the gearstick plate, the pinn with those O-rings and clips etc...

And I had some work on my mountain bike, the hydraulic brake caliper was stucked on the disc (thought my condition was so bad, but noticed it when I was halfway a bike tour) so repaired this also.  But some good news, one of my neighbours asked me if I wanted to take over his rental garagebox so yes I will! 50 euro's a month for extra space to park a car and a lot of spareparts😁.

Off topic: In those 38 years of service I spend more than 5 years in the military technical school. One of those educations was towing & winching trucks and tanks. Working and lifting with a crane, saving people with those hydraulic scissors etc. This was long ago my first wrecker truck:

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M62 build in 1956, was so proud my commander gave me the "keys".  6 cilinder petrol engine, used 150 liter petrol /100km. Petrol tank of 500 liter and 9 jerrycans of 20 liter... Max speed 55 miles /hour.

Have all a nice weekend.

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Would you have enough power in hoist to lift shell at front? And remove front axle complete, (without calipers) and fix engine box and front axle in one, but from underneath! ........Just like opel did. 

Just a thought! Ive done it a few ways, just like you, engine then box, engine and box! I think all three easiest, i am thinking of a way to lift shell with ease!  Older minds think harder! 

Great work, how / why is engine so clean! 

Edited by ®evo03
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definately enough power  in a hoist yes but its the height that could be the issue.the shell once unbolted from the axle complete with engine can easily be lifted by hand with 2 people.i remeber doing this many years ago to a royale but we couldnt get it high enough to clear the mac struts so obviously a manta doesnt need to go as high.

when i did my top mounts the other week i was reassembling them and they seemed to stick going back on so i tried to lift the car with front bumper thinking i could jiggle them into pisition and all i succeded in doing was lifting the front of the car clean back out of the long bolts and the axle tilted backwards and i was back to square 1 ! bugger !

sorry herman didnt mean to contradict you.

you replied whhilst i was also repliying !

shell doesnt weigh much compared to engine and box surely

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No problem cam.in.head 😁, looked the other day closer at my hoist and the max load is 200kg. But I never tried to lift a shell as you did. Next time! When I took that pic the front wings were off, the bumper and hood etc. But the interieur was still in, and those recaro's are heavy but easy to remove.

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Back again, and good news: The engine runs!  First I filled the gearbox with oil ( and spilled some one the exhaust...), connected all the wires and the starter engine etc... Repaired the wires to the oil contact. I know there is a topic about the location of this thing and I'm a fan of the original location. If your oil pressure drops it can also be a indication there is a loss of oil pressure cause of worn bearings. A pic of my oil contact:

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Used a drill to pump the oil to the top of the engine after filling the oil filter, the oil pump and ofcourse the engine with mineral oil to break in:

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You can see the oil squirting out of the camshafts: (Why does Miley Cyrus jump in my mind?)

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So closed the engine and did a test start:

My Son helped me with the starting of the engine, think he wants to take that car for a drive😁.

After the start-test I fitted the water tubes and radiator, filled the system with cooland mixture and lowered the car back on its wheels. 

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Drove the car outside my garage until the nose pointed up to be sure the air went out of the cooling system, everything looks ok, no leaks but some smoke cause of the spilled gearbox oil... 

Tomorrow test drive, gonna be not soft for the engine to make sure the piston rings do not glaze the cilinders. 

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