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"400" repair


H-400
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An update: Going to check as wrote above the throttle switch and noticed the retour line of the feul looks bended, wil take a pic of it. Maybe it blocks the feul and gives a higher pressure and causes the problems. Checked also the conection of the temp. sensor but this system hes got no 5th cold start injector so easy to check... 

Also something to check if you all fit a new head gasket:  My GSI had his 1000 km's and because I use always those old type of head bolts I retorqued them as required. Always surprised how you need to do this, they realy need to do this there you can turn them again more as expected. But after this I noticed an oil leak on the camcover, more work! Gave the engine a new oil filter and oil but after the meeting in Holland I noticed the oil leak is still there... 

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So I noticed this when I was inspecting the throttle body switch:

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The retour line looks folded together in the bend, maybe it blocks the feul and causes the problem?

Did also some work on te GSI, valvecover gasket (rubber) leaked oil so I fitted a new one, after cleaning the engine:

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Had a new 2.4 on the shelf so I glued it on the rocker cover with construction glue:

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When dry I can use again blue Hylomar to fit it on the head, hope this will help. Look at this engine, took this pic of a Irmscher Gp4 Opel GT of a friend, just look how clean the car is:

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3 hours ago, H-400 said:

So I noticed this when I was inspecting the throttle body switch:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The retour line looks folded together in the bend, maybe it blocks the feul and causes the problem?

Did also some work on te GSI, valvecover gasket (rubber) leaked oil so I fitted a new one, after cleaning the engine:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Had a new 2.4 on the shelf so I glued it on the rocker cover with construction glue:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

When dry I can use again blue Hylomar to fit it on the head, hope this will help. Look at this engine, took this pic of a Irmscher Gp4 Opel GT of a friend, just look how clean the car is:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

That is clean, show quality, does he ever drive it 🙂

I have the rubber gasket on the GT cover and fitted it with no glue or sealer and it has not leaked at all since i put it on. The old cork one always leaked!

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Hi Andy, the gasket began to leak after I did the 1000km oil change & inspection. It sweated allready on the backside but after retorquing the headbolts I probably didn't clean it enough. Had also problems with those cork gaskets, thats why I posted that GT picture. The owner drives the car only at special occasions. It is so clean you think he cleanes it with a toothpick in the corners. 

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4 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi Andy, the gasket began to leak after I did the 1000km oil change & inspection. It sweated allready on the backside but after retorquing the headbolts I probably didn't clean it enough. Had also problems with those cork gaskets, thats why I posted that GT picture. The owner drives the car only at special occasions. It is so clean you think he cleanes it with a toothpick in the corners. 

Although it looks lovely like that, all nice and clean, BUT an Opel needs to be driven 🙂

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As Andy wrote: A car needs to be driven!

Done some more work: The retour line is repaired, fitted a new one but not easy to do. Wanted to fit a metal bended pipe but was a problem for the clamps on so little space. Then I wanted to push the bended pipe into a rubber feul line but with silicone etc. it was still impossible. So I cutted a metal 8mm feul in in 3mm parts and pushed them into the rubber feul line so they kept it open:

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Looks better!

Checked the throttle body switch and works perfectly, looked for a spare temp. sensor and checked it with a multimeter and hot water. Then I changed it with the "400" one and checked that one too. Both in good condition:

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To be sure there's no leaking injector I disassambled the feul injection rail and started the feul pump. Cause this is a L-jetronic it is enough to push the flap of the AFM with contact on:

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Looks Ok so I after fitting everything together I started the engine and after warming up the exhaust CO meter gives the right setting, tomorrow testdrive... 

About the GSI: The rocker cover doesn't leak at the seem anymore, but still at some bolts. 

 

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  • 5 months later...

Yet we are months later, the "400" engine runs nice. Got thanks the higher compression and the flowing work on the head more power. Blocked the vacuum of the ignition cause it wants to knock at low rpm's. Got about 500km's and opened the camcover to check everything. Let the oil run out to check it for metal but everything looks fine. Noticed an oil drip on the back of the engine where its bolted on the gearbox. Was afraid it was the new crankshaft seal but closer inspection showed it came from the oil pressure sender. Also a drip on the bottom plate of the oil pump. 

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As expected the cold engine makes more noise cause of the forged pistons, can live with it. Got to try to repair that oil leak but that big exhaust manifold doesn't cooperate. Happy I don't have that brake booster in the way as you guys. And I need this garage to fit a new cambelt in my sons Toyota Celica... Work work work. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had to remove the bracket (between exhaust and engine block) and lower the downpipe to get to the oil pressure sender:

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Some years ago I had to buy a new one, but a sender with the same thread-diameter was not available. But the older guy behind the counter of that shop went to the back and after some minutes he came back from his lathe and gave me that brass connection he had made for me. Didn't had to pay for it, great service. 

But as you can see the diameter is also different from the classic CIH oil pressure sender. Left my "new" sender with the brass connector and right an oil pressure sender from a classic 8v CIH. On top the 90° metal elbow from a diesel engine and I think the UK petrol CIH:

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I used some hydraulic loctite 477, worked fine on my tank engines etc.

Next thing to do is the pressure valve of the oil pump. It is a diesel bottom plate so the spring and the plug are bigger. Wanted to fit a new brass sealring but the original one is very thin (1mm) and hard to find. So I made it soft again. Heated until it went cherry red and cooled it fast with cold water:

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Seen this Herman. It may interest you. See engine, 1979. 2.4 on fuel injection? 

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See the pump driven off the cam at front? Interesting. 

If the manta was used to develop the ascona, wonder if the ascona was used later to develop the manta. 

Very interesting it being used in 1979. 

Edited by ®evo03
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Thanks Evo 👍,

those 16v heads on a CIH were already developed in 1972 for racetracks. Later they tried them on the 2litre block but that combination didn't work for rally. Opel took that head to Cosworth and fitted the diesel based cranck in it and the "400" engine was born. 

Nice report, on that pic of the engine you can see on the drivers side cam the connection to the tacho , the other side looks like a mecanical injection (kügelfisher?). 

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  • 1 month later...

Last time we went to the winter storage my son and I repaired a group B Renault 5 Turbo. To get by the engine we had to remove a lot of interieur panels. My son found some pics on his smartphone but the owner of the Renault doesn't want pics of his car on internet, so a few pics of our cars parked outside:

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Waiting for the spring...

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Got also a complete set of Ronals 7x15 5-stud for the GSI so it is a complete mix up. Need time to fit them, wanted to install a Commo rear axle but the Belgian MOT doesn't allow it so I'v got to do it with the half shafts. 

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