Cavalier MK1 GL Saloon (Automatic)

mepbowles · December 26, 2020

Hey all,

I bought this lovely car off Paul at the end of November and it drives nicely and it's barely a project compared to some of the others on here. For my skillset, equipment, space, time and budget though, I think this is more than enough. As the work is mostly cosmetic, I plan on a long-term, light restoration while I continue to enjoy driving it.

It'll be good to keep a running record here of any changes to save trying to keep my memory or photo collection organised. Hopefully I'll work out how to edit my posts to improve photo orders etc.

My short list of tasks/ideas:

Small underside welding patches (COMPLETED),

Clean/polish,

headlamp rubbers,

rear light panel,

Paint,

Audio/dash,

Boot interior,

Seats/belts,

underseal/waxoyl,

upgrade instrument panel to 6 dial,

electronic ignition,

firewall

The bodywork needs minor touchups and attention all over but particularly the areas below. After a couple of Quotes for a full respray, I'm going to try a DIY effort starting with less noticeable areas to test the method. If I need more skill or equipment (e.g compressor), I'll hopefully either be better or know to give up by the noticeable bits. I'm not aiming for concourse as I'd never be able to keep it that way but clean, tidy and working will do. Ideally the front and rear windows will have to come out for the respray but tbc.

Rough order of attack:

- underside of the bonnet,

- the front Valence,

- engine bay,

- boot,

- doors & door slams,

- roof (repainting black),

- front and rear window panels/surrounds,

- wings, rear quarters and bonnet

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Mike. · December 26, 2020

Hi mepbowls,

The job list to do doesn’t look too bad, the underside of bonnet will be a good one to start with, I would bring it all back to bare metal, small wire wheels both the flat ones and round ones to access all the tight areas, treat with a rust converter, zinc primer and paint, then fill all box sections with wax oil. Be careful not to generate too much heat with the wire wheels and burn the paint on the top of the bonnet. I removed all paint from my panels and I remember the bonnet was one of the panels that took a while, quite time consuming but worth the effort, I think once you start you will be drawn into it and there will be no stopping you 👍

Monaco Blue · December 26, 2020

That's a nice Cavalier! Good luck with the to do list.

The first thing I would be doing would change the number plates back to white/yellow as those are not period.

Rather than paint the roof black again, why not get a black vinyl roof fitted. There's still a few places around that can do it today. Would look so much better and again, period correct for that car even if it wasn't fitted previously.

You could always get some ATS alloys. They weren't fitted to GLS's back in 78 but were optional on the later models and do suit the car, not that there's anything wrong with the Rostyles fitted with chrome trim rings.

Edited December 26, 2020 by Monaco Blue

Jonathan Pounsett · December 26, 2020

4 hours ago, Mike. said:

Hi mepbowls,

The job list to do doesn’t look too bad, the underside of bonnet will be a good one to start with, I would bring it all back to bare metal, small wire wheels both the flat ones and round ones to access all the tight areas, treat with a rust converter, zinc primer and paint, then fill all box sections with wax oil. Be careful not to generate too much heat with the wire wheels and burn the paint on the top of the bonnet. I removed all paint from my panels and I remember the bonnet was one of the panels that took a while, quite time consuming but worth the effort, I think once you start you will be drawn into it and there will be no stopping you 👍

I agree. Loads of prep but well worth the effort. Just the inside took me about 5 hours!

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

mepbowles · December 27, 2020

21 hours ago, Mike. said:

Hi mepbowls,

The job list to do doesn’t look too bad, the underside of bonnet will be a good one to start with, I would bring it all back to bare metal, small wire wheels both the flat ones and round ones to access all the tight areas, treat with a rust converter, zinc primer and paint, then fill all box sections with wax oil. Be careful not to generate too much heat with the wire wheels and burn the paint on the top of the bonnet. I removed all paint from my panels and I remember the bonnet was one of the panels that took a while, quite time consuming but worth the effort, I think once you start you will be drawn into it and there will be no stopping you 👍

I know zinc primer is traditionally a good idea but from reading about the rust converters, they create an electrically insulating layer of epoxy which prevents the sacrificial protection. Obviously this would only be for the areas with rust and the rest would benefit from the zinc primer but, there seem to be some who say an epoxy primer gives better barrier protection from its strength and resistance to damage than a traditional zinc galvanising process which is softer and more prone to damage, albeit better when it is damaged.

I did have the shopping basket below ready to purchase but before I go and drop my money on a big shopping list, I'd be interested in your thoughts on epoxy primer Vs zinc priming. Hydrate80 was recommended here and it was a good starting place but rust.co.uk has been very helpful in understanding the painting process and it seems fe123 is recommended over hydrate80 by practical classics too.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Mike. · December 27, 2020

During my restoration, I stripped all paint from my panels, inside and out. The rust converter was used on the bare steel where rust had been just to add a level of protection especially in areas I couldn’t get at, seam welds, box section etc then coated in zinc primer to stop flash rusting and handed into my local body shop.

There the professionals again stripped the panels to bare steel, this time opting for coating all metal in red lead then epoxy primer. They suggested red lead was excellent at rust protection but if left can be pours and let moisture back into the metal so they then sealed it all with a top coat of epoxy. The process can be seen on Mike’s Manta in your projects, loads of photos of bodywork, panel prep and spraying, hope this helps.

Epoxy primer if you can get some I think would be a good idea.

IanMc · December 27, 2020

Hi Matt,

Welcome to the club.

You have a great car in a great colour. Good luck with the running restoration - just take your time and enjoy yourself.

All the best, Ian

mepbowles · January 13, 2021

While I continue researching the abyss of paints (it's too cold anyway!), I decided to get started on the dash and audio as well as clean up some of the spares I've picked up.

First up is the centre console, dash and front trim bought from Richard.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

After a clean with soapy water and some black trim polish, the centre console looks great.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The chrome trim still isn't perfect as there are some hard stubborn white spots that autosol and polishing cloths wouldn't shift and it still needs straightening. I can use this spare to practice approaches before tackling the other trim which needs attention.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The dash will be painted with vinyl dye once it arrives but the rust and peeling foam on the underside will need sorting first.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

The speaker is a very strange size 7x3" and has dual inputs for stereo output. I can't find a replacement but fortunately it works so it'll be fine for now with the others I'm adding. 🙂

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

mepbowles · January 13, 2021

I wanted to add some new speakers to the rest parcel shelf but cutting holes is just something I or someone else will regret later. After a bit of searching over Christmas I found 3 matching speaker pods on Facebook at a steal so I got them cleaned up and fitted some new 4" apeakers to do the car with sound.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Unfortunately the new drivers are deeper and protude beneath the housing by a few mm. A little foam padding should sort that.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Also wanted to measure up for new aluminium faceplates.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Jessopia74 · January 13, 2021

Very period 😁

Jonathan Pounsett · January 13, 2021

I love modern tech hidden behind the original facade.

Richard33 · January 13, 2021

Hi Matt,

Good to see that the parts are of use to you and much better being used for your cavalier than gathering dust in my garage!

Great progress and hope I can be of help in the future when this lockdown is over.

mepbowles · January 13, 2021

6 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said:

I love modern tech hidden behind the original facade.

Couldn't agree more. I was looking at some 80s speakers but they looked too space age for a saloon car and more complicated to replace drivers.

These have the added advantage of not looking worth stealing.

I also bought a Kenwood underseat subwoofer to tuck away somewhere for a little extra kick. I got one for my sister's MK4 Escort and it's enough for occupants to enjoy without inviting the whole town to listen too.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

®evo03 · January 14, 2021

Think the a post speakers from a mk3 cav, got mine from a gsi2000, remember they are up on the dash, left and right, in the corners.

These fit in the dash air vents, kept some for a small project sometime, but i do like my vents, so maybe not a good idea, just thought id throw it out here. Fresh air / heat or tunes?

Plenty of glovebox space for a modern head unit, or there is a company that builds modern units with old units, great idea!

mepbowles · January 15, 2021

The car has a cheap and cheerful Bluetooth radio that fits, looks okay and has all the right connections. So, just the speakers to add for now.

The 2mm foam I ordered arrived today along with some connectors so I think I have most of what I need to make a start this weekend. I should have bought 4mm foam but I've doubled up the 2mm stuff instead and it'll raise the drivers up off the parcel shelf. With some glue and tidying up with a soldering iron, I won't notice they're there.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

In other news, I think I've decided upon the zinc-rich epoxy primer route so am on the lookout for a 3hp compressor. Dash dye should arrive for experiments next week.

Jessopia74 · January 16, 2021

After this little project if yours, I think period speaker pods are definitely a great idea for 3D printing

mepbowles · January 18, 2021

On 16/01/2021 at 19:42, Jessopia74 said:

After this little project if yours, I think period speaker pods are definitely a great idea for 3D printing

It was getting to that point trying to find them at a reasonable price. I eventually found someone selling them for £5 each on FB so I bought 3.

If you want to borrow the 3rd one for measurements, just let me know.

Jessopia74 · January 18, 2021

4 hours ago, mepbowles said:

It was getting to that point trying to find them at a reasonable price. I eventually found someone selling them for £5 each on FB so I bought 3.

If you want to borrow the 3rd one for measurements, just let me know.

Thanks, keep thst in mind. Once scanned it could be adjusted for extra depth as you say.

mepbowles · February 11, 2021

Works been slow on the car as I've been busy with other things but I've been making sure I have everything ready for when I start work.

I found some door pockets from a mini on eBay and thought it better to test the vinyl dye colours on them before approaching the dash.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

They're 50*14*6cm so should fit onto the door cards well. The external screws also means fitting will be super easy and the holes should be hidden by the carpet once removed.

Navy blue looked the closest, but I wasn't sure without seeing it sprayed and dried.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

the inside of the pockets will be the least noticeable and the beige original colour is a good base to spray onto. I did forget to scuff it up with a pad so the front will get a light scuffing.

Navy Blue:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Light Navy Blue:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I've yet to check in natural light against the original trim panels but it looks like the navy blue wins the day so far.

The light navy can always be used for other things and it might work better on darker substrates.

mepbowles · July 28, 2021

(I'll work out the upside down photos soon).

It's been a while since I updated this but in fairness, not much has happened other than parts accumulation and VBOA.

I got the passenger door pocket on but screws on the driver's side keeping fouling the door so the card needs to be off to do a clean job.

I'm happy with the match and its good to have another place to store things away.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I fitted also some rear seatbelts so I could have an inaugural family outing. Securon 254 3 point belts and 210 lap belt if anyone was wondering. The mounting holes are already there on the c pillar, hidden under the headliner. Thank you for being so forward thinking Vauxhall!

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Looks nice and smart and safe for special passengers now.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

mepbowles · July 28, 2021

It passed its MOT in June but they mentioned a weeping brake proportioning valve and a slow leak from the auto box and diff. I managed to find a NOS proportioning valve on eBay and agreed an acceptable price.

I think I'll replace the brake lines over the winter, possibly upgrading the brakes too if there's anything that'll fit under a 13" rostyle. The inner wing needs attention too.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Shiny new part. No. 9077017 to help anyone with a search.

Shortly after the MOT, I started to notice a weird smell (petrol/oil), coming through the vents. It's had what looks like upgraded fuel lines SAE 30 R9 but the engine is filthy and taking a look at the steering/suspension it's the same.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

It looks suspiciously like someone tried to drain the oil from the oil pump rather than the sump. Not sure how you call yourself a mechanic and manage that but nevermind. I started cleaning it yesterday so I can see the oil leaks for the grime. It looks way better and it was nice to finally use the car ramps.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I'll have a go at the engine block and gearbox soon.

I've also been accumulating parts and identifying more little jobs to do. All small things that contribute to a better car. Cosmetic and functional.

Trim bits like badges, window winders, door handles and surrounds. And some more useful bits like mudguards and bumper brackets.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Hopefully I'll get round to fitting them sometime but I want to polish the arch trim at the same time and am still working out the best way to polish out the white spots and chips. I have a spare nose trim to practise on and I'm currently trying sanding it down smooth and then progressing to finer papers but it's going to take ages. I think I need to upgrade to small flap discs.l unless there's a better method?

The wheels are looking a little sorry for themselves too so I'll be contacting a local powder coater to get them done.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited July 28, 2021 by mepbowles
Photo removal

mepbowles · July 28, 2021

Bonnet stays rust and rubber bump stops!!!

I was cleaning the underside of my bonnet yesterday ahead of the thought of stripping it back and noticed the panel is loose from the box section. The little spacer cones that were presumbly welded in place have flaked off. Is this easily repairable by a competent mobile welder (not me)?

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

It's probably why it's a little on the loud side, combined with some worn out bump stops on the wings.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

edelschmiede postage to UK is expensive so I should grab a few things. If anyone wants to do a group buy to save postage, let me know.

I also finally found a paint shop that advertises Sapphire Blue Metallic L218/3BB/25L. So, I'll make sure I understand what I need (zinc epoxy, Hb primers, base, clear etc) and that all the Chemistry plays nice with each other and make an order in a month or so. Unless anyone recommends a better base coat/overall paint system.

https://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-opel--vauxhall-paint-waterbased-codes-20---2zu-2827-p.asp

®evo03 · July 28, 2021

Inner skin and outer skin of bonnet isnt welded, it bonded, probably better to use granville seal sealer, it dries hard, slight flex.

As for noise, you can buy sheets of sound deading, or was thinkung of foam yoga mats!

Bonnet stops are same as any early vauxhall, think nova are the same possibly corsa too! Maybe astra too.

Jonathan Pounsett · July 28, 2021

I bought these and thought they were good value for money.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Manta-B-bonnet-Rest-Rubbers-/293598233713?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

mepbowles · July 29, 2021

On 28/07/2021 at 11:18, ®evo03 said:

Inner skin and outer skin of bonnet isnt welded, it bonded, probably better to use granville seal sealer, it dries hard, slight flex.

As for noise, you can buy sheets of sound deading, or was thinkung of foam yoga mats!

Bonnet stops are same as any early vauxhall, think nova are the same possibly corsa too! Maybe astra too.

Excellent! I think I can handle a little sealant.

I have a spare yoga mat but I've seen spray on sound deadening which shouldnt be a moisture trap and would be over-paintable. Probably costs more than a cheap yoga mat though.

14 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said:

I bought these and thought they were good value for money.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Manta-B-bonnet-Rest-Rubbers-/293598233713?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I've messaged the seller but it looks like they might have shut up shop. Edelschmeide is a similar price after tax so if I can find enough to order (which it turns out I can), postage per item will be minimal

Sign In

Cavalier MK1 GL Saloon (Automatic)

Recommended Posts

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Link to comment

Share on other sites

Join the conversation

Recently Browsing 0 members