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Hi folks. I’m not greatly clued up with CIH electrical ignition stuff. I know more about Diesel engines or the ohv 8v engines. I’m putting a 2.0s engine together for my 76 B series. The engine I have is an early 2.0 with a points distributor. I want to run electronic ignition and I think I have another dizzy off a later 2.0s engine. Can I just swap the dizzy over? What electronic components do I need to match? So I can make sure I have all the relevant parts ready to fit when the engine goes in. The loom in the car is from an auto B from around 1979. 
 

 

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2 hours ago, Danny D114BCW said:

You will require the later dizzy, coil setup and that part of the loom too. 

Don’t suppose you have any pictures of the later setup so I can see what I have/haven’t got in my shed of unknowns ?

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hi. 

im sure danny will be able to help and i can add my pennyiesworth if it helps you too.

 

the haynes book ( later manta or mk1/2 carlton book show the parts quite well.

the distributor from a gte WILL work fine but idealy you would need one from a 83-86 carlton 2 litre with carburettor. ( very hard to find ,even a few years back)this would have the correct advance curves but considering that modern fuels especially the e5 stuff burns differently than the old 4 star i wouldnt worry too much .you will need the matching coil too as the system runs on 12 volt rather than the ballasted wire supply for the points ignition.( the wrong coil will just cook itself )

other than the distributor,coil and mini wiring loom/ connector you will need the amplifier unit which is mounted to the coil bracket and to run a new wire to the ignition switch( you could use the electric choke wire but personally id just run a new one.

everything else is the same as for points system. same plugs,rotor arm,cap leads and the same green connector for the rev counter. 

Edited by cam.in.head
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There are electronic ignition kits for the old point distributors too that work just as good, if not better due to new electronics than a gte like Luminition or other cheaper options that seem to be popular e.g. http://accuspark.co.uk/kit_search.html  that is arguably the best price option as it would be similar price to a new amp for an original gte disi.

 

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Ok. So I’ve fitted the electronic dizzy. Maybe not a good idea then? I take it all carb model engines had points system but the Carlton carbs had electronic? This is a picture of the wiring loom in the car. What additional/ different loom is there? I notice the electronic dizzy has a plug on it. I’m guessing that loom will need splicing into the original car loom ? 

C2A786E7-3B56-41AF-8453-AC6ACC0B8CD7.jpeg

E0F9B744-3B99-467C-B648-F28026F6479B.jpeg

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The later carb engines had also electronical ignition. This is a pic fo my (injection) engine bay:

sK2DH2T.jpg

The loom is an easy fit, someone will have one laying around in his shed. Still for sale @ Edelschmiede but expensive:

https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/Cable-set-cable-harness-transistor-ignition-Opel

 

Edited by H-400
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12 hours ago, H-400 said:

The later carb engines had also electronical ignition. This is a pic fo my (injection) engine bay:

sK2DH2T.jpg

The loom is an easy fit, someone will have one laying around in his shed. Still for sale @ Edelschmiede but expensive:

https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/Cable-set-cable-harness-transistor-ignition-Opel

 

I see they also sell an injector loom....I need one!

 

kabelsatz---kabelbaum-einspritzanlage-le-jetronic-opel-cih-2-0e.jpg

https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/navi.php?a=1485&lang=eng

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16 hours ago, H-400 said:

The later carb engines had also electronical ignition. This is a pic fo my (injection) engine bay:

sK2DH2T.jpg

The loom is an easy fit, someone will have one laying around in his shed. Still for sale @ Edelschmiede but expensive:

https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/Cable-set-cable-harness-transistor-ignition-Opel

 

I like this idea. Unlucky I’ve just put a huge order in from them this week! But it’s something to consider. 
 

what I need help with is matching that loom with the correct wires on the cars original loom.

 

0BCC2F21-E004-4F0A-974F-CD15535C7963.png

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The original extra ignition loom is plug & play. The big connector goes into the black module under the coil, the small connector on the dizzy and the other go on the 

coil and one earth. As cam.in.head wrote above the coil needs 12V, not the resistor wire. 

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didnt realise the later carb engines had electronic ignition too. none of the cavaliers up to when they finished in 81 had so it must be the very late 82 mantas before they became injection.

i suggested carlton because they continued the carb engine up to 86 alongside injection but would be hard to find now anyway.

i must admit i personally like the original bosch setup and have had issues in the past with other stuff.

but yes ,as mentioned, just bolt on,and run a new 12v wire . job done. 

 

 

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Nothing like needing something, finding it, and cracking on, rather than ordering online, waiting around, and getting delayed! 

Its great having your own parts department 😒

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2 hours ago, Sutty2006 said:

Wheeeeyyy look what I’ve found in the shed. 
 

 

1BBA19A7-469C-4314-AF98-832744DA4E6A.jpeg

Remember to get some heat sink compound & smear a thin layer between the ignition amp & the heatsink. The stuff that’s there will be like talc by now. 

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8 hours ago, Trooker said:

Remember to get some heat sink compound & smear a thin layer between the ignition amp & the heatsink. The stuff that’s there will be like talc by now. 

I think you’re going to need to explain that in a bit more detail...... please! 

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The aluminium T shaped panel is a heat sink for the ingition module to prevent it getting too warm. Back of the amp is bare metal and should have a compound spread on it to aid heat transfer into the alloy (it basically takes up the gaps between 2 surfaces that are not 100% flat, but also aids in transfer of heat).

Most commonly known with cpu's to heatsinks in computers but used on all sorts of electronics and it dries with age and becomes less effective.

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1 hour ago, mantasrme said:

The aluminium T shaped panel is a heat sink for the ingition module to prevent it getting too warm. Back of the amp is bare metal and should have a compound spread on it to aid heat transfer into the alloy (it basically takes up the gaps between 2 surfaces that are not 100% flat, but also aids in transfer of heat).

Most commonly known with cpu's to heatsinks in computers but used on all sorts of electronics and it dries with age and becomes less effective.

Got ya. So can this stuff be easily obtained? 

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