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Irish blue


1200bandit
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  • 2 weeks later...

Today is the time to start the O/S front 

Remove the wing , wing in excellent condition no rot or rust 

Removed the wing with a bit of dread was expected to full of rust

The front of the inner wing had be cocked up removed the fibre glass not bad really,the top of the inner wing has only a bit of rust so just a small bit of welding on that the rest is like new.

Got to welded the inner wing by the headlight and little bit on the inner wing by the a pillar.Should only take a few hours to welded 

Quite happy with that

Removed the front upper and lower suspension arms ,will clean,paint ,replace upper,lower ball joints 

Only on it  about 4 hours

.This Manta is a bit strange . Looks like is has been stored in garage,barns for a few years,

Someone in th past as done a some work on in the past as bolts,nut have copper slip on them ,which is  way so easy to pull apart.Also the normal cut on the hand

Some photos of the stuff done.

l the garden now drinking beer

 

 

 

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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3 hours ago, 1200bandit said:

Second coat of paint done this morning 

Going to give a short brake maybe start the welding at the weekend 

 

 

 

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Looking good on the arms and stubs, but I see some more unearthed to weld, looks a bit nasty that, but kept it protected I guess.

 

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Was thinking about the headlight adjustment mechanism 

Come across this on eBay 

Was going to try and see if l could make one out of this 

Cut a slot in the plastic square so it fits onto the brackets on the headlights 

Then drill and tap so the treaded rod locks onto the bracket 

Thinking of possible 6 mm square to hook onto the brackets 

 

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14 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Sounds like it could work, would it need to be plastic?  What about a metal rod, or small diameter pipe.

Great thinking 💭

Good idea! Brass tube (moddlers) and use small wire blade in coping saw to cut the hook. Then solder on flat washer for spring seat, and threaded rod into the tube for adjuster 

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28 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Good idea! Brass tube (moddlers) and use small wire blade in coping saw to cut the hook. Then solder on flat washer for spring seat, and threaded rod into the tube for adjuster 

This was the way l was thinking,this will be my 5 th attempt at this 

46 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Sounds like it could work, would it need to be plastic?  What about a metal rod, or small diameter pipe.

Great thinking 💭

Using plastic as l think it will be easier to work with,and will not rust way like the rest of the manta 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got my ares into gear today 

All the welding done on the o/s front 

Did take a bit longer than l thought ( 3 hours) 

Got to clean up the welding tomorrow then seal everything 

Bit of body filler on the inner wing 

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35 minutes ago, 1200bandit said:

If you want to replace this bolt when you refix the subframe let me know - I still have about 50 new ones.

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12 hours ago, 1200bandit said:

The brake pads do over hang the front discs ( not a lot ) the a gap between the discs and the pad carrier about 1/2 inch 

Will Audi discs fit with the brake callipers ( what Audi discs are they if they will fit)

Yes they fit, but need to be re-drilled, CB opened up a little. Just buy them done, not much more than std discs already modded. Probably good for Q-years with the miles we all do in our cars 😂 Best setup for the cost imo. @mantasrme is your man I think. 

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Remove the master clylinder no problem, cleaned ready to paint 

Removeing the servo to clean and paint the inner wing,servo 

The is a big arse spring on the brake pedal  servo pin .it is possible that it is sized, 

Working in a gap of about 18 inches ( the door will not open any more as it hitting the wall) 

Going to remove the o/s front seat ( hopefully will come out though o/s door with the window open) going to lay down and work that way 

So the question  what is the best ,easy way to remove and refit the big arse spring 

Only had a quick look ,l think this is going to be one of them things you think “ why the f##k did l start this 

 

Edited by 1200bandit
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Take the clip off the yoke pin and it should push out . However, on my Ascona A that is essentially the same setup, it was stuck in the yoke (Clevis) with a bit of surface corrosion. Good dose of WD40 and a slight tap wit drift+hammer it came out. Unless  yours is worn and has a step, then that would be a bitch to get out. What I would do then is remove the Booster stud nuts to unload the clevis pin, and get some grips on it (or monkey wrench) ro turn it through 90-180deg, so the step is opposite to where the natural pressure on the clevis/pedal is, then try to knock it out. However, I have never seen this pin worn that it has a ridge even on really old cars, trucks yes, not cars.

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1 hour ago, 1200bandit said:

Looks good! I do have one question - how come your grass is so green?

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