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Paint blisters


Ems
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During winter a lot more paint blisters have appeared on the car,  some of them have cracked.  Parts of the filler where the rear arches bond to the body have also cracked,

The car needs a full respray, when money allows as all steel and fibreglass panels have bubbles.  The car is out in the open and used all year round. 

Should I leave most of them alone and just treat anything rusty, or sand everything down and brush/roller paint for now?

Thanks

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I wonder if the more extreme frosts have shown things that have been ok for a long time?

My car, like yours is out in the open & used all year. It was someone’s project about 12 years ago & is non original colour & non standard paint. Loads of micro blisters so presumably moisture in the airline at the time. I’ve found that some are the results of rust underneath & grow! but most are isolated from the body by the original paint & as far as I am aware only an aesthetic issue. 
With non original paint on a classic several local body shops won’t touch mine. One would but only for a bare-shell job & it would be £6k+ 😬

I’ve taken to Bilt Hamber products & rattle cans. 😂
 

You’ll have seen IanMc’s great job with enamel.

There’s a guy with a YouTube series who brush painted a mini & it looks good too. 
 

Good to know there are others in regular use 👍
 

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Ems respray might cure some of the bits, but not all of it. Is it the white 400r? arches should have very little filler, filler is only used for shaping and flattening. Arches should be bonded on with granville tiger seal, as for other stuff like cracking especially in fiberglass, look at taking the flex out of the kit, use braces where its flimsy.  Micro blisters could be as mentioned, moisture, dust particles, or generally bad paint. 

 

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Thanks for the replies, yes it's the car in the profile picture.  It had several blisters before but they're out in force now.  I've got a lot of Bilt Hamber products in the shed - stocked up after buying a T4 Caravelle!

The arches were bonded to the shell when I got the car.  My explanation wasn't clear, the fibreglass hasn't cracked - the cracks are around the edges of the arches where it meets the body.  It looks like filler has been used here as opposed to something flexible like tiger seal.  

I've also been told that the shell would have to be taken back to bare metal, before a re-spray - something I can't afford at the moment unfortunately.

 

 

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Yeh, knew what you meant by filler crack, maybe worth considering refitting them, IF, you go full respray. A clean defined edge not blended will not crack.

As most cost goes to prep, why dont you consider getting a quote for a respray 95% prep ready. Caution, some will say, we dont do that preprep stuff! I cant see why if they can do the end 5% prep. The way i look at it, all the hard work is done, its only manual labour afterall, the remaining 5% is where the skill is at, 

The reason im saying this is because the cause may be in the primer, or deeper, causing you the blister issues. 

Im sure there are other guys on here can advise regarding paint costs etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm useless at anything involving, sanding, filler and paint so anything I do will probably increase the costs!  I took the car to another body shop and they've confirmed that it will need taking back to bear metal as the moisture could be in the primer or paint.  Whenever the time arrives for paint I'll change the sills - the ones on the car now have been fitted too high.  I've also got a roll cage from my old car taking up space in the shed so I'll fit that as well.

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Back to bare metal is a safeguard, as paint can react, and they have no way of telling what paint it is, makes sense if you got existing paint issues, sills and cage, good call to get it sorted before paint. 

The way i look at it, if they want bare metal, you just go to bare metal and stop. Cuts the costs bigtime. 

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