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CIH timing adjustment and other questions


Sutty2006
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Please forgive my lack of CIH knowledge. I’ve managed to get my 2.0s running better, however, the dizzy is as far anti clockwise as I can get it. What do I need to adjust to get it to be more level with the little timing mark on the casing? 
 

also, after getting it running and putting coolant through it, I noticed coolant coming up through the rocker cover bolt hole nearest the thermostat……. I hadn’t put that bolt in, but is that supposed to happen or is the water gallery goosed? 

28E98D5B-D54A-4572-A859-B5458974C0CB.jpeg

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18 minutes ago, Sutty2006 said:

Please forgive my lack of CIH knowledge. I’ve managed to get my 2.0s running better, however, the dizzy is as far anti clockwise as I can get it. What do I need to adjust to get it to be more level with the little timing mark on the casing? 
 

also, after getting it running and putting coolant through it, I noticed coolant coming up through the rocker cover bolt hole nearest the thermostat……. I hadn’t put that bolt in, but is that supposed to happen or is the water gallery goosed? 

28E98D5B-D54A-4572-A859-B5458974C0CB.jpeg

Can I ask how you set the static timing before you started the car? 

Thanks 

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46 minutes ago, Snowy said:

Can I ask how you set the static timing before you started the car? 

Thanks 

With plugs out, put me thumb over number 1 plug hole and turned engine over until I could feel compression in chamber, then watched the timing mark come round on the crank pulley. That way number 1 is at TDC. Then put the dizzy in, with the rotor arm pointing at number 1 lead/ so that the rotor arm is lined up with number 1 notch on the cap. Then went from there. I had it 180 degrees out at first. Had to remove and refit. 

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47 minutes ago, Sutty2006 said:

With plugs out, put me thumb over number 1 plug hole and turned engine over until I could feel compression in chamber, then watched the timing mark come round on the crank pulley. That way number 1 is at TDC. Then put the dizzy in, with the rotor arm pointing at number 1 lead/ so that the rotor arm is lined up with number 1 notch on the cap. Then went from there. I had it 180 degrees out at first. Had to remove and refit. 

I've replied to your Facebook post but first mistake is you set the timing to number 4 on the CIH not number 1.

If you need anymore help give me a shout.

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the position of the distributor is not 100% important in theory and can be positioned where you want realy.its the relationship between the shaft lobes and the body that determines the firing point so if yours is too near the engine then you just need to reposition the shaft a couple of teeth further away and then move the body the same exact amount to maintain the timing.its possible to just lift the distributor out and then back in and it usually moves a tooth at a time anyway as it twists as it goes in.then timing light to check/ readjust as required.

the timing on a carb car is usually pretty much standard and then a slight retardadition if required depending on what petrol you are using.the 99 ron esso synergy is good to use especially as its ethanol free too.for now at least !

 

as regards the water issue if its definately coming up through the rocker cover bolt hole ( and not just squirting from the thermostat housing )then dont write the head off yet! all is not lost

maybee someone in the past has drilled out a broken bolt and gone too far down come out by the thermostat housing ? you would have to remove the housing to check .then it would just be a case of drilling to correct size( if not already) to be able to run a m6 tap right through. then you could fit a grub screw ( idealy from the bottom upwards but you may not have enough access) with a good coating of thread sealer into the hole leaving enough room above for the rocker cover bolt. this should seal up the hole as good as new again. 

never seen it happen but you never know whats been done to it in the past. that hole was originally a blind hole .

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1 hour ago, cam.in.head said:

the position of the distributor is not 100% important in theory and can be positioned where you want realy.its the relationship between the shaft lobes and the body that determines the firing point so if yours is too near the engine then you just need to reposition the shaft a couple of teeth further away and then move the body the same exact amount to maintain the timing.its possible to just lift the distributor out and then back in and it usually moves a tooth at a time anyway as it twists as it goes in.then timing light to check/ readjust as required.

the timing on a carb car is usually pretty much standard and then a slight retardadition if required depending on what petrol you are using.the 99 ron esso synergy is good to use especially as its ethanol free too.for now at least !

 

as regards the water issue if its definately coming up through the rocker cover bolt hole ( and not just squirting from the thermostat housing )then dont write the head off yet! all is not lost

maybee someone in the past has drilled out a broken bolt and gone too far down come out by the thermostat housing ? you would have to remove the housing to check .then it would just be a case of drilling to correct size( if not already) to be able to run a m6 tap right through. then you could fit a grub screw ( idealy from the bottom upwards but you may not have enough access) with a good coating of thread sealer into the hole leaving enough room above for the rocker cover bolt. this should seal up the hole as good as new again. 

never seen it happen but you never know whats been done to it in the past. that hole was originally a blind hole .

Just incase anyone else has trouble in the future it is all marked with alignment marks to set the static timing.

So although you're right that you can technically put the dissy where you want it's so much easier to do it right.

1. Set the crank so the pulley mark's align.

2. Set the dissy housing mark's so they align.

3. Set the rotor arm so it aligns with the mark on the dissy cap mounting face. To keep the housing Mark's aligned this might mean you have to pull the dissy out and align the rotor arm with it's marking. This is because of the drive gear on the end of the dissy. Do not rotate the housing to suit the rotor arm.

4. As long as you set the dissy to number 4, not number 1 cylinder, you now have your static timing set.

5. Start it up and adjust the timing accurately with a timing light.

 

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1 minute ago, Snowy said:

Just incase anyone else has trouble in the future it is all marked with alignment marks to set the static timing.

So although you're right that you can technically put the dissy where you want it's so much easier to do it right.

1. Set the crank so the pulley mark's align.

2. Set the dissy housing mark's so they align.

3. Set the rotor arm so it aligns with the mark on the dissy cap mounting face. To keep the housing Mark's aligned this might mean you have to pull the dissy out and align the rotor arm with it's marking. This is because of the drive gear on the end of the dissy. Do not rotate the housing to suit the rotor arm.

4. As long as you set the dissy to number 4, not number 1 cylinder, you now have your static timing set.

5. Start it up and adjust the timing accurately with a timing light.

6. Once the timing has been set correctly with a timing light the dissy housing marks will not align anymore. This is not an issue.

 

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20210703_190850.jpg

20210703_191442.jpg

 

Edited by Snowy
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10 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

what was it then in the end ? was it the hole that had been drilled too deep ?

There must be a pin hole in the casting between the top rocker cover bolt and the forward most thermostat bolt hole. There is the same pin hole on a separate head I have at home, must be a bad casting. Unsure how the water can get past the gasket but it shouldn’t do now. We will see how it goes on. 

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