Jessopia74 Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 The resistor would be next to the coil if it’s still fitted. White rectangle thing with a wire going to the +ve side of the coil from it. Obviously feed to it ignition, so if you bridge it out you will get 12v at the coil for both cranking( from starting circuit) and ignition. So you can do away with the one from starter circuit on +ve side of coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Hockley Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 There are 2 wires going to +ve side and 1 split into 2 wires on -ve side of the coil. No obvious ballast resistor but this car has so much bodged it may have been removed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Bruce Hockley said: There are 2 wires going to +ve side and 1 split into 2 wires on -ve side of the coil. No obvious ballast resistor but this car has so much bodged it may have been removed. It was extremely common for them to be removed as batteries improved they tended not to drop so much voltage during cranking and 12v coils was more common. Easy way to tell us get a volt meter set to DC and test each of those two wires on the +ve side (to chassis -ve). With just ignition on, One should show 0v (that’s the start crank feed that was supposed to boost the spark during cold cranking and operates off the starting position of key), the other will either show 12v with no ballast or 6v iirc (could be 9v, but definitely lower than battery volts) with a hidden ballast. Fir the 2 wires to -ve side. This is correct as one if for Tacho, green iirc, the other is from your points in distributor. hope that help👍 Edited April 23, 2022 by Jessopia74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Got the wiring diagram if you need it. https://www.theopelproject.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Opel-Manta-A-Series-Wiring-Diagram.pdf The ballast will be a clear one on the A originally. Andy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Hockley Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 Thanks Andy. I bought a Haynes Manual and another workshop manual so should be good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Hockley Posted May 1, 2022 Author Share Posted May 1, 2022 Well some forward progress but not not as much as I would have liked. Fitted the new master cylinder, Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. discs, pads, calipers and little brake pipes from flexi to Caliper. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I didn't initially put the reservoir on as i wanted the space to put manifold and rebuilt carb back on. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Reservoir is now fitted and brakes bled as much as i can on my own. Got a pedal so hopefully all good now. What didn't go so well was the fitting of the electronic point replacement, coil, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap. No spark. 😢 Wish I had left well alone instead of trying to make it "more reliable" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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