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Cavalier Coupe


IanG
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12 hours ago, IanG said:

Just need to sort collection, where is best to source parts, if I recall there are some German specialists?

Also has anyone fitted rear inertia belts, I think the fixings are there but can you get the belts?

Thanks,

Ian

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Lovely car and love the original colour. Best of luck with it. 

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There is also TJM that I use frequently in UK. https://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk
Regarding some of the EU sellers also do sell on eBay and ship to to the UK, that is less problematic for customs. It’s under a scheme for EU 1stop tax shop thing, that means eBay has already dealt with all the tax etc if any needs to be applied.

Lastly, if you was not aware, there is a specific Facebook group for OMOC club members, that have more ppl there that don’t use the forum and (vice versa) so you can ask for advice thee too and part etc if you use FB.  https://www.facebook.com/groups/396627984242223
 

Hope that helps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Need some help please, missing a few parts that I need to find to get me out on the road safely in the cav, any assistance much appreciated!

Propshaft centre bearing bush

Rear axle breather

Rear axle spring seat pans


Can anyone help?

btw she now has a name, Eva (Green) :)

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Seat pans you can get from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255383221354

there is no prop centre bearing, unless you mean the torque tube one, then https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294621444095

Axle breather https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294764645761

Good sellers to save to your eBay favourites 

 

and a good uk store for panels and other bits/bobs

https://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk/categories.php?cat=1607

Edited by Jessopia74
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Brill Jessopia you saved me a lot of searching thank you I’m thinking I already owe you, I know a lot about VW’s not so much about Cavaliers (yet) other than our two dogs also cavvies

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Been searching does anyone do inner rear arches/repair panels?

Most posts seem to suggest fabricating a repair.

Will stop cluttering  up the thread and next time go to parts wanted!

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1 hour ago, IanG said:

Been searching does anyone do inner rear arches/repair panels?

Most posts seem to suggest fabricating a repair.

Will stop cluttering  up the thread and next time go to parts wanted!

Never seen any for sale mate. It’s fabricate or get a chop out if a great shell that’s getting chopped 

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I've never seen new manta rear inner arches (mores the shame) i've always fabricated them. Often its not the full inner arch thats rusty just sections of it, which is easier to make short pieces rather than a full inner arch. Not the worst job in the world although it is much easier with the axle out and the shell upside down!

Be careful when changing the torque tube doughnut (rubber bush holding bearing at the back of prop) its held into the torque tube crossmember by 3 little tabs that are folded over gripping the edge of the bush on each side. They can easily snap and leave the rubber free to move and pop out of the surround. Old original rubbers are very soft and fold out easily but the uprated rubbers stay in a little better, although they are harder to get squeezed in there in the first place. Much easier to do all that with it off the car on a bench.

Oh and if you do remove the torque tube completely to work on it, its worth popping a new rubber seal in the front of the axle while you're at it.

I have bearings and axle seals in stock normally so if you need either i can help out, and i'm not far up the A1 from you.

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2 minutes ago, mantasrme said:

I've never seen new manta rear inner arches (mores the shame) i've always fabricated them. Often its not the full inner arch thats rusty just sections of it, which is easier to make short pieces rather than a full inner arch. Not the worst job in the world although it is much easier with the axle out and the shell upside down!

Be careful when changing the torque tube doughnut (rubber bush holding bearing at the back of prop) its held into the torque tube crossmember by 3 little tabs that are folded over gripping the edge of the bush on each side. They can easily snap and leave the rubber free to move and pop out of the surround. Old original rubbers are very soft and fold out easily but the uprated rubbers stay in a little better, although they are harder to get squeezed in there in the first place. Much easier to do all that with it off the car on a bench.

Oh and if you do remove the torque tube completely to work on it, its worth popping a new rubber seal in the front of the axle while you're at it.

I have bearings and axle seals in stock normally so if you need either i can help out, and i'm not far up the A1 from you.

Thanks hoping to get to Wentworth Show in July as carwill be roadworthy but work in progress!

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OK, so here is what we know so far, the car is generally in quite good shape (phew), so I plan to run it this summer after having new tyres, brake drums and a bit of general fettling.

During the winter it will be worked on to replace the swan necks (currently plated), repair inner rear wheel arches, replace rusty & welded rear axle spring seats, cut out the rust on the doors, new springs and shocks then probably have a full respray all of which should see her good for a long time to come.

I’m saving now to avoid cancelling Xmas :)

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I would change the torque tube doughnut if you are doing the bearing as not a job you want to have to do again and if you go with the uprated one you can warm them up in some hot water and they go in easier!

Torque tube out will be so much easier.

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10 hours ago, 611 said:

I would change the torque tube doughnut if you are doing the bearing as not a job you want to have to do again and if you go with the uprated one you can warm them up in some hot water and they go in easier!

Torque tube out will be so much easier.

Cheers parts are on order!

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Ok so Eva now has new tyres, rocker gasket, torque tube doughnut & bearing, brake drums, rad hoses, all done, should have her running tomorrow, first trip out will be for fuel.

The plan is to run her this summer, then sort out the rust in the doors, fit some swan necks in place of the plating, plus new rear spring pans and a little repair work in the inner rear arches over the winter.

Remarkably little rust for a 45 yo car, I was a little nervous after seeing the Manta on Car SOS!

 

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2 minutes ago, IanG said:

Ok so Eva now has new tyres, rocker gasket, torque tube doughnut & bearing, brake drums, rad hoses, all done, should have her running tomorrow, first trip out will be for fuel.

The plan is to run her this summer, then sort out the rust in the doors, fit some swan necks in place of the plating, plus new rear spring pans and a little repair work in the inner rear arches over the winter.

Remarkably little rust for a 45 yo car, I was a little nervous after seeing the Manta on Car SOS!

 

The older cars do seem to be built with better steel, corrosion resistance etc. all the good replacement panel cuts I have are from late 70s 

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Was wondering recently if later cars where painted underneath,  as I think earlier cars have body colour paint underneath.  Original,  from the factory.

Also wondered if people ever had issues with previous weld repairs,  I haven't been around long enough to witness issues with previous repairs. 

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Been to garage for fuel today, steering rack is shot ( on order) won’t centre and I drove it like I was drunk.

Strong smell of petrol, vent lines are all toast, does anyone have a diagram of the coupes fuel breather lines, there is a vent pipe top left of tank which goes to a t piece and disappears behind the tank.

Then it reappears as a line clipped to the bottom of the tank and down through the boot floor.

 Errr pipe diameter would be useful too, don’t want much do I lol.

 

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Ok so instead of getting on with tea I’ve stripped the rear seats out and can see a take off at each side of the top of the tank which joins a t piece and goes around the tank and out the floor.

just checking the internal diameter looks like 5mm.

 

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