Simon Dobbo Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 So I bought this Manta that had been parked up from 1989 until 2022. Previous owner put it back on the road but was never taxed? I drove it back 100 miles and it is great - mostly. I am now starting to address the issue that you get with a car not used for so long. This weekends first jobs Remove fuel tank thats possibly leaking and radiator thats not great. Sent them to local company that has been doing radiators and tanks for 40 years - hope to get back in 2 weeks. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. It looks like previous owner replaced breathers but front of tank is either weaping or getting covered in gearbox oil from leaking rear seal One of the 'T' piesces is broken anyway and car smells of fuel when filled up. Next up is gearbox seal - but decided now to remove the box and do front seal on box and also the engine rear seal and the clutch - they must all be susspect anyway after sitting for so long and its dropping oil. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Anyone had any experience with the Prop bearing/support in front of rear axle? seems pretty loose to me - might need to do that also 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 Does not look too bad at all for a Hatch tank. usually its the hoses that perish and start to weep as the original was not methanol safe. So make sure the replacement you get is good quality ethanol resistant hose, e.g. Gates J30 R9. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted August 21 Author Share Posted August 21 7 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Does not look too bad at all for a Hatch tank. usually its the hoses that perish and start to weep as the original was not methanol safe. So make sure the replacement you get is good quality ethanol resistant hose, e.g. Gates J30 R9. Yes thats why i am wondering now if it is not leaking and I am worrying too much. Maybe the staining that was getting worse was oil flying back from rear gearbox seal that was really bad. Noticed the rear silencer has oil over it. Oh well its off for refurb now - good to know its done even if wasnt leaking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 the rear prop support you mention is best left original if the rubber is not perished . it is a very soft assembly so don't assume it's worn out ! originals last way longer than any replacements and the internal bearing never gives trouble . also if we're talking front gearbox seal on a 4 speed they rarely give trouble but if you insist then it's sandwiched between the gearbox and bellhousing so unless you are doing the clutch you can just unbolt the gearbox itself leaving bell housing in place make sure you can get one first . it's gearbox specific not a generic oil seal as such ! most likely gm only . you may also need the gasket too if it tears 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted August 21 Author Share Posted August 21 6 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: the rear prop support you mention is best left original if the rubber is not perished . it is a very soft assembly so don't assume it's worn out ! originals last way longer than any replacements and the internal bearing never gives trouble . also if we're talking front gearbox seal on a 4 speed they rarely give trouble but if you insist then it's sandwiched between the gearbox and bellhousing so unless you are doing the clutch you can just unbolt the gearbox itself leaving bell housing in place make sure you can get one first . it's gearbox specific not a generic oil seal as such ! most likely gm only . you may also need the gasket too if it tears Thanks Its a 5 speed box - Want to rear oil seal on engine also as appears to be leaking so will drop the entire box and replace clutch whilst in there being as it will be on the floor Finding lots of posts regarding the gearbox oil Does anyone have a clue where to buy the correct stuff as all the posts are years old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 2 hours ago, Simon Dobbo said: Thanks Its a 5 speed box - Want to rear oil seal on engine also as appears to be leaking so will drop the entire box and replace clutch whilst in there being as it will be on the floor Finding lots of posts regarding the gearbox oil Does anyone have a clue where to buy the correct stuff as all the posts are years old Have a read of replies in thus thread , but remember the oil is Getrag spec, the 240, 265 was fitted to quite a few makes, not just Opel. Largest supplier would gave been BMW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted August 21 Author Share Posted August 21 1 hour ago, Jessopia74 said: Have a read of replies in thus thread , but remember the oil is Getrag spec, the 240, 265 was fitted to quite a few makes, not just Opel. Largest supplier would gave been BMW Thanks undecided between ordering original stuff or going redline mtl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opeloutbacks Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 My assumption on seeing the pictures is the oil your seeing is the ziebart rust treatment. Sprayed through the the chassis rail and landing on the tank. The tank looks very good to me. Still prudent to rust protect the tank now though. My guess is the replacement breather pipes, as they are not original, are reinforced, as per typical fuel feed lines. Problem with that is it hard to create a good seal around the spouts. For that reason I didn't use re-enforced. I used flexible E10 compatible hose, and achieved good tight fitting even before using the clips. I would replace all the existing probably 6mm hose. Suitable hose as above. And the down spout on filler kneck is 5mm not 6mm. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 10 hours ago, Opeloutbacks said: My assumption on seeing the pictures is the oil your seeing is the ziebart rust treatment. Sprayed through the the chassis rail and landing on the tank. The tank looks very good to me. Still prudent to rust protect the tank now though. My guess is the replacement breather pipes, as they are not original, are reinforced, as per typical fuel feed lines. Problem with that is it hard to create a good seal around the spouts. For that reason I didn't use re-enforced. I used flexible E10 compatible hose, and achieved good tight fitting even before using the clips. I would replace all the existing probably 6mm hose. Suitable hose as above. And the down spout on filler kneck is 5mm not 6mm. 👍 Yes it is all reinforced stuff. so you think better for none reinforced. internal diameter on existing is 5mm and is marked as such larger pipe is not marked but measures at 12 or 13mm internal. some will take a look for some 5mm non reinforced and 12mm non reinforced I guess. some suggest it’s 4mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 as jess says best to use E10 rated stuff just to be best even thou you will never be using E10 fuel in it . rated R9 but please use a known make from a known supplier . there are lots of fake hose out there which is not what is actually printed on it and you don't want this as it will perish in a couple of years ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 33 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: as jess says best to use E10 rated stuff just to be best even thou you will never be using E10 fuel in it . rated R9 but please use a known make from a known supplier . there are lots of fake hose out there which is not what is actually printed on it and you don't want this as it will perish in a couple of years ! Absolutely mate, there was an article about fake Gates hose that I can't seem to find now, but the club forums for all different makes etc. are a wash with 'cheap gates from eBay etc.' failure warnings Wonder how many of those classics that have had burned out had skimped on the fuel hose! Scares the crap out of me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 before i realised there were fakes i replaced a couple of hoses on my cav one year and the next year when i do my checks they were covered in cracks . original gm hoses had been on for years and we're still fine if not just starting to get a little 'firmer' so that's why i started replacing them . i obviously replaced them again with another ( cannot remember make now ?) and after regular checks seem fine now 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opeloutbacks Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 9 hours ago, Simon Dobbo said: Yes it is all reinforced stuff. so you think better for none reinforced. internal diameter on existing is 5mm and is marked as such larger pipe is not marked but measures at 12 or 13mm internal. some will take a look for some 5mm non reinforced and 12mm non reinforced I guess. some suggest it’s 4mm? Use a Vernier gauge to measure the spouts. The give in the pipes will vary. There breather pipes. There's little to no pressure. On the 1.8 it's low pressure fuel pull to engine and no return. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 20 hours ago, Opeloutbacks said: Use a Vernier gauge to measure the spouts. The give in the pipes will vary. There breather pipes. There's little to no pressure. On the 1.8 it's low pressure fuel pull to engine and no return. I’ll have to wait until I get the tank bank and then measure it if I still have my gauges - ha was just hoping to order now ready for when tank is back but I will have to learn to be patient 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 22 minutes ago, Simon Dobbo said: I’ll have to wait until I get the tank bank and then measure it if I still have my gauges - ha was just hoping to order now ready for when tank is back but I will have to learn to be patient 😂 Patience is a virtue that no one has 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 I have the tank and radiator back now. 2.5 weeks and the guy charged me £350 which I think is a decent price. this weekend will be a coolant flush and refit radiator and fuel tank. then oil change and get a few miles done in the car to test gearbox output seal I have fitted - hopefully got it in correctly. 😂 Any advice on engine oil type? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutty2006 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 What did he do to the tank in the end then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 He has soaked it internally and externally with an acid/rust remover and then cleaned up the outside with sander etc. Then pressure test followed by re braising and or soldering the leaks - mainly around couple of the breather pipes. Re soldered a patch that was already on but not soldered correctly. Then he painted the outside with a matt black product he uses - like a stonechip finish but corrosion resistant. The outside finish is not perfect - he painted over the sound deadening rather than removing it and replacing it which is a little dissapointing. He doesnt coat the inside as he says he has had many issues over the years with the coatings flaking off meaning when he gets the tank it has to be totally split open to clean it out. I will add some pictures at the weekend when i am re fitting it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 Heard a lot about the internal stuff flaking. But equally seen posts by people that swear by it. I think keeping fresh fuel is key, lower the methanol the better to stop moisture absorption Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 (edited) mine was done by northern radiators a few years back (2004ish?) with the renew process. it's coated inside with a type of brown epoxy ?. i run a see through fuel filter in the line and not seen anything untoward in it and i certainly don't ever have it full . in fact i don't think i have ever brimmed the tank in its life ! the tank was on a swap / exchange basis and the tank i got back wasn't the one i gave them . it's been absolutely fine but to be honest i would have preferred my own tank back especially as the tank j was given looks like it was slightly squashed underneath by a jack or careless reversing ! Edited September 5 by cam.in.head 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 It may be a good product but i did read some poor reviews and then the local guy to me also said he has done tanks for 40 years and warns against it. Main thing 2 things for me were Done in 2 weeks rather than 4 to 5 radiator and tank done for £350 rather than the £450 for tank alone at Norther radiators - never got price off them for the radiator also Hopefully i wont live to regret it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 1 hour ago, Simon Dobbo said: It may be a good product but i did read some poor reviews and then the local guy to me also said he has done tanks for 40 years and warns against it. Main thing 2 things for me were Done in 2 weeks rather than 4 to 5 radiator and tank done for £350 rather than the £450 for tank alone at Norther radiators - never got price off them for the radiator also Hopefully i wont live to regret it. Rad would have been circa 250. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opeloutbacks Posted Thursday at 16:31 Share Posted Thursday at 16:31 Glad your making good progress. I use this product in mine, both whilst it was empty during restoration and on going https://bilthamber.com/product/gas-mac/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Dobbo Posted Thursday at 17:21 Author Share Posted Thursday at 17:21 48 minutes ago, Opeloutbacks said: Glad your making good progress. I use this product in mine, both whilst it was empty during restoration and on going https://bilthamber.com/product/gas-mac/ I have seen that and wondered if it was worth using. i hear good things about bilthamber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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