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Parts needed A Series Rallye


steveopel
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Quite a rare thing these days, and I may be wrong but I think there may have been two different clocks, early and 1974 model year on style. I reckon Russ Brough would know more about that though.

Edited by 1900SR
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This is the original one from my 1973 SR which no longer works. I've just enquired about getting it repaired and if I can then the one that is currently in my car and working may be for sale. That one does have a small crack either side of the time adjust dial though which is why I'd like to replace it..

1000010743.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Steve will fish the gauges out and see which one it is, the car is a 72 Rallye but the clock that came with it is totally different from the outer two might be interested in the other one you have if you do get yours repaired. Cheers

These are the clocks are they the same has you SR303442920_recentred35.thumb.jpg.5a57677f510b9888fee31ebb62273de7.jpg

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The other two gauges look the same to me, so it is your clock that has been replaced.  I'm still in two minds whether to sell my spare set though as I've had to have the clock that went for repair modified and so it's no longer original, still looks the same but has now got a quartz movement which means it's got a push button time adjust on it which I'd need to mount somewhere.

 

Edited by 1900SR
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Im having the same problem with spares mate. This is probably the hardest car to find parts for that we've ever owned.!

Im thinking of selling the A and keeping the GTE instead now.!!. 😞

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To re-assure you...

Parts are available, mostly from abroad and at a price, but (after a learning period) I have been able to find everything I've needed so far.

Lots of great help and advice from members here both directly for parts or just pointing me in the right direction.

Keeping a series of searches open on eBay helps too.

The best news is that very little is available because there's little demand.

More demand would mean nasty repro parts. At least what is available is mostly decent quality.

(Apart from door mirrors!!)

Please don't give up!

LS

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No worry i wont, been at it 4 years with the A series, its my lads first car we have done a little bit but other projects seem to crop up which delays things but it will get finished one day.

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  • 1 month later...

If you keep a sharp eye open on e-bay they do come up reasonably often - put a saved search in. Almost all of the German 60mm clocks of this period appear to have been made by Kinzel, (although supplied to suit the individual Car makers face style) and are an impulse wind mechanism. The energy to make the mechanical clock work is stored in a small coil spring which is would round a drum for an angle of about 60 degrees, the energy in the spring allows the clock mechanism to run for about a minute, after which a pair of points operated by the drum close and energizes an electromagnet, which flings the drum and attached spring end back to its fully wound position, to repeat the operation. It is possible to carefully open the clocks by using a small jewelers screwdriver to pry back the back edge of the chrome ring and release the plastic window. This allows the time setting knob to be de-gunged so that it works properly. You can get at the clock mechanism by removing the 3 slot headed screws on the rear plastic cover  (don't turn the very small slotted screw head with the arrow and + and -.)

There appear to be 2 main causes of failure for the mechanisms. Firstly, the energy storing springs goes weak with time and the clock mechanism stops before the rewind points close, Secondly the points become claggy and even when closed don't enable the necessary current to drive the solenoid. Both can sometimes be overcome by gently bending the points arm connected to the Spring Drum.

There is one other cause of the clocks not working, and that is generic! After 50 odd years the lubricant in the mechanical clock mechanism congeals and the friction in the mechanism becomes too great for the Impulse Spring to drive the clock. There is a solution, go and buy some very light electric contact lubricant spray. Give the mechanism a light spray, and then when connected to 12V, 'help' the mechanism run a number of times, giving some extra light sprays as required. After a little coaxing the cleaner/lubricant works its way back into al the bits that need to be lubricated and the clock starts to work again!

One comment - DONT USE WD40 - it contains water, I have used Kontakt Super 10. The nice working clock in my car is actually an Opel or VW casing and face with the mechanism off an NSU Prinz grafted straight into the Opel casing! Now is it 'Nopel' or 'Opu'?

By removing the front chrome ring, you can also re-paint the hands carefully to the original fluorescent orange on all of the gauges! You don't need to re-clench the chrome ring right round, since it is actually held on by the clocks mounting screws.

Hope that this helps, I did this on my first Manta A in 1978, and have recently done it on my 'new' Manta A in 2024! I could probably take some photos of one that I couldn't get running if it would be of value. (my success rate has been about 75%)

John

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"Now is it 'Nopel' or 'Opu'?"

Both these sound like names you'd use if you can't get things working again!😀

"Opelrinz" sounds like the clean up afterwards and "OpeNSU" sounds like a class action against the clockmaker...

"Prinzopel"  might work? 🤔 😄

 

Yes, a quiet Sunday.....🤪

 

 

 

 

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On 24/11/2024 at 13:34, Enfield said:

If you keep a sharp eye open on e-bay they do come up reasonably often - put a saved search in. Almost all of the German 60mm clocks of this period appear to have been made by Kinzel, (although supplied to suit the individual Car makers face style) and are an impulse wind mechanism. The energy to make the mechanical clock work is stored in a small coil spring which is would round a drum for an angle of about 60 degrees, the energy in the spring allows the clock mechanism to run for about a minute, after which a pair of points operated by the drum close and energizes an electromagnet, which flings the drum and attached spring end back to its fully wound position, to repeat the operation. It is possible to carefully open the clocks by using a small jewelers screwdriver to pry back the back edge of the chrome ring and release the plastic window. This allows the time setting knob to be de-gunged so that it works properly. You can get at the clock mechanism by removing the 3 slot headed screws on the rear plastic cover  (don't turn the very small slotted screw head with the arrow and + and -.)

There appear to be 2 main causes of failure for the mechanisms. Firstly, the energy storing springs goes weak with time and the clock mechanism stops before the rewind points close, Secondly the points become claggy and even when closed don't enable the necessary current to drive the solenoid. Both can sometimes be overcome by gently bending the points arm connected to the Spring Drum.

There is one other cause of the clocks not working, and that is generic! After 50 odd years the lubricant in the mechanical clock mechanism congeals and the friction in the mechanism becomes too great for the Impulse Spring to drive the clock. There is a solution, go and buy some very light electric contact lubricant spray. Give the mechanism a light spray, and then when connected to 12V, 'help' the mechanism run a number of times, giving some extra light sprays as required. After a little coaxing the cleaner/lubricant works its way back into al the bits that need to be lubricated and the clock starts to work again!

One comment - DONT USE WD40 - it contains water, I have used Kontakt Super 10. The nice working clock in my car is actually an Opel or VW casing and face with the mechanism off an NSU Prinz grafted straight into the Opel casing! Now is it 'Nopel' or 'Opu'?

By removing the front chrome ring, you can also re-paint the hands carefully to the original fluorescent orange on all of the gauges! You don't need to re-clench the chrome ring right round, since it is actually held on by the clocks mounting screws.

Hope that this helps, I did this on my first Manta A in 1978, and have recently done it on my 'new' Manta A in 2024! I could probably take some photos of one that I couldn't get running if it would be of value. (my success rate has been about 75%)

John

Thanks John some good info there, ive got one on its way but not sure if it works or not, but i also have a spare gauge coming that i might be able to swap over so whilst its stipped down it would be worth lubricating things.

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