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  1. Quite a lot done to this over the past few weeks. Most of the welding is now complete, engine stripped, prepped, painted, head ready to go for testing and a light skim. All the black gunky sound deadening removed with heat gun and a scraper to reveal very good floors including the boot, all removable panel prepped and primered ready, doors, side skirts, bonnet, boot. Next stage is to spend a couple hours finishing the welding then, prime and paint the underside and start running the new lines in etc...
    8 points
  2. Merry Christmas everyone! I hope you are all enjoying some well earned rest from work and from the disaster that had become 2020/2021! It looks as though 2022 might be a bit more promising for car shows and events, as there are some interesting ideas already in discussion. You will also have heard no doubt that the dates for the VBOA who at Sywell have now been confirmed too. Great news, so its time to get planning for next year and get those unfinished projects sorted out! Please let me personally take the time to thank you all for supporting the OMOC throughout the last couple of years.....they have been difficult for everyone. We really do appreciate the support of every member and without you all, we couldn't do what we do, so many thanks once again and all the very best wishes to you and your loved ones. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to one and all! Cheers, Paul.
    8 points
  3. Both rear quarter windows fitted with the newly chromed parts. Drivers door runners fitted and no more window rattle 🙂 I now just have the passengers side to do and then the door top and gutter trims to finish polishing and fit. Then its mop and polish both doors ready for the door handles and inside trim and we are all set to go. Still aiming for end of Jan to be back on the road if we have some dry weather for the rest of Jan. Andy
    7 points
  4. Well, one good thing about global warning is that is was a barmy 15 degrees today on the south coast and as the sunshine had come out in the afternoon and in the morning i done a bit of DIY to keep the missus happy, i thought it would be silly not to make the most of the dry warm weather and i have started putting the chrome parts back on the car. It was getting a bit dark by the time i finished the drivers side! That's all the all the window trim back on and now i can fit the door handle in the next couple of days as the weather is still looking like it will be warm for a few days! Then its on the passengers side. If the weather stays like this for a while i might be back on the road by the end of Jan!!
    7 points
  5. Cavalier clocked up 80 miles trouble free so far not hundred percent running correctly but it getting there .
    6 points
  6. Thanks for In information eveo A new year a new approach to the manta 1 hour after work ( hopefully) Going out today so ask the bride how long to get ready about 2 hours So done a dit to the manta Was feeling a bit worried about removing the bumper as the rear 1/4 panels not in the best condition, so remove the bumper, the the 1/4 on o/s n./ s in excellent condition ( result ) when l removed the bumper found the spacers on the rear 1/4s Now have a spare one . Have fitted the bumper l got Going back to original look sort off. The bumper needs a repaint Hopefully tomorrow night will fit the rear fog lights, will post photos of the fog lights tomorrow
    6 points
  7. Here’s wishing you all a very happy Christmas psCan you guess what I’m drinking (to start with )
    6 points
  8. 5 points
  9. I think my attitude is - its getting fixed, whatever is needed effortwise. Its my first car, and I am doing this with my daughter who has shown a massive interest in it, and that's worth it more than the car! I have trusted her with the look of the finished article, so it will have wide arches, big spoiler - etc.. We have the colour decided (San Marino Blue - BMW / Porsche colour). I need to learn how to weld - always wanted to. She thinks the car is very cool. It will just bring extreme joy doing it - I suspect this is true for a lot of people on here with their projects... Then there is engine choice etc - will bring that up in the coming months... I am torn very much but its worth a separate topic. On the weekend I am off to cut / collect a section that should allow me to repair this area - a very kind member of here has what's left of a car that has apparently saved 3-4 other cars in its demise. I really appreciate all your opinions and help - it makes the project a lot more fun for me. Cheers!
    4 points
  10. Just for completeness, it's now listed on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125085657920?hash=item1d1fafab40:g:5pMAAOSw4R5h1caV From a post on Facebook, the roof is blistered local to the sunroof, as is the sunroof itself, and the rear box rotten. All original and unwelded otherwise. In his opinion, it's a £12-13K car. I'd say perhaps £15K on a good day.
    4 points
  11. and at least if the rust comes through it will smell nice !
    4 points
  12. Bilt hammer deodorant gel, then hydrate80. will stabilise it and hold it back for years to come. the hydrate 80 works as I laid it onto steel 6-7 years ago and no signs of any coming through it’s a tough coating almost epoxy like
    4 points
  13. I'm waiting for when you realise you have a spare 400 engine 🍻👍🤣🤣
    4 points
  14. http://www.chromerestorationspecialist.co.uk/services/headlamp-re-silvering/
    4 points
  15. Im not sure how well these will come out but i thought i would post some pics of my paint polishing test. This is the process i will be using to polish the old Opel Project when it gets a bit warmer! Give it a clean and use 2000 grit to remove any dirt nibs etc.. The go over it with the Trizact 3000 discs then the Trizact 6000 dics then its onto a bit of refining with the Cartec Final Cut 9000 Then a final finish with Cartec Ultra Finish 12000 and a hand wax finish. Below are some pics of me testing it out on a wing that i below a few coats of paint over if i had any left. I never finished it properly so it was always a bit rough as i wanted to see what it would come out like on this and then hopefully the car would be even better! I used the Trizact 3000, Final Cut 9000, Ultra Finish 12000 and polish on this and missed out the Trizact 6000 as i only have a few of those discs and they are expensive. Im using an Auto Finesse MPX DA Polisher. Hopefully this will be of use to someone and when i get around to the car i will post some of that as well Andy
    3 points
  16. Just wanted to say thank you to Martin, I have a big chunk of his dead car in my front garden now after quite a long road trip. So on we go with the rest! I shall be doing a parts run into Europe at some point for chassis and other bits. And I need to decide on engine and other upgrades. New topic about to be posted! Cheers Everyone.
    3 points
  17. Chevrolet Chevair, had also the same rear suspension as a Manta/Ascona 400.
    3 points
  18. Got new bumbers but at the chromers hope to have them back end of feb
    3 points
  19. The wipes are from a Nissan Juke ( l think can check in the next few days) The wiper arms are original just open the the end a tiny bit The qashqai x trail will fit but it’s not as long Is the n/ s wipe that’s fits All so the rear seat release lever on a hatch a Nissan Juke fits well .you can’t tell is of a juke I have also replaced the boot seal but can’t remember what what Renault it was from Fog lights from a Ford XR 2 will fit ,l have got 2 to fit
    3 points
  20. Ah cool, nice find, what model, something different! The original style of wiper is very dated. We need to make up a thread, Other parts that FITS a manta. A peugeot 405 boot seal, fits, a wee trim, an inch too long. Mk2 golf sunroof seal, Nova brake pads! Mk3 fiesta roof skin to hatch! Supposedly! Only tried and test the seals.
    3 points
  21. Strip the motor down,used a wire wheel on a drill.Remove the rust Rub down with 240 grit paper,then go to wet/ dry paper until you get the light lines out Then rub down with 1000 wet/ dry paper,then use a metal polish ( l used Autosol) Finish of with a polishing wheel until you are happy with the end result I finish by sealing it Is will take so time to do dut the results are excellent
    3 points
  22. Don't think anyone will find an ex works manta 400 for anywhere near that price. A genuine road 400 is knocking on 80k for a mint one.
    3 points
  23. Be very careful if you choose to do it this way get some heat on the glass (heater fan) before soldering as you could you can shatter the glass (thermal shock) done a tab fix on the cougar used a special tab adhesive from the states.
    3 points
  24. Two very different engines, can’t really compare imo. I have both. C20xe has it’s merits but a cih does belong in a manta,
    3 points
  25. Blydenstein tuned 2.4 means it will be an absolute stonker of an engine and will eat a xe for breakfast..all day long in fact an all day breakfast😄
    3 points
  26. I think if it is what they say it is it’s worth the money. It’s the poor pictures and vague description that’s not helping I feel.
    3 points
  27. Cheers Kev. Yeah definitely donit once and right. It's a big project for me really but working on the theory of a little often nice and steady will get it done.
    3 points
  28. Sorry for the delay in updating. over the last year we have done the following. braced the axle boxes. Put an original tunnel back in after I had many years ago removed one that wa a perfect and replaced it with a Sierra one. Replacing it took more time than we thought as it was a lot of welding and dressing. small Areas of rot were cut out and replaced. The front panel was previously on the Mancona when I bought it as a 1800 hatch. The lady had spent £1500 on a new front end back in the day when they were available ( including fit and paint ) so when I cut the front off it to make a Mancona I kept it for the cossie. The spare wheel well always annoys me hanging down and I needed a place to put the battery so a boot floor was found and chopped up to make a mirror image of the boot floor. drain holes were welded up using 40mm diameter steel from eBay. Under side stripped back to bare metal, treated in phosphoric acid, then built hamber hydrate 80, then knocked back again and hit with a mannor zinfos primer. This is really just to stop it flash rusting whist we continue to work on it and tub the arches etc.. for the 400 kit. Once we have done a complete dry build of the car and made sure everything fits and works, and no other brackets etc... are required it will then be torn down again, primer flatted back to get a key for a couple of coats of 2k primer, then a good couple of coats of raptor liner in body colour. Hopefully it should protect it well enough. More pics that I added above but we’re not added
    3 points
  29. My Ronals are et25 and fit perfectly.
    3 points
  30. 15x7 et 25 fit great with 205 50 15 tyres no modification needed. Run them no problem. The hatch is now running 15x8 et30 205 50 15 no touching with a 40mm drop.
    3 points
  31. Update: Had just a call from one of my sources: found a frame for 40€.
    3 points
  32. I can live with the cape, as long as I don't have to fit my underwear over my trousers😁. @John "Manta hatch": Egbert De Boer has got one, just asked him if he can ship it to the UK. I asked him also for a feul pressure regulator (I need one) and he mailed me for the FPR and the frame together 100€ without shipping. So got to figure out what each costs...
    3 points
  33. Not in a classic car it's not a fail . Not in a classic car it's not a fail . 22 March 2021, we’re changing these rules so that not all motorcycles and vehicles will fail the MOT test if their halogen headlamp units have been converted to be used with HID or LED bulbs. Class 1 and 2 motorcycles Class 1 and 2 motorcycles must not be failed for the defect ‘Light source and lamp not compatible’. Headlamps must comply with all other requirements of the test and headlamp aim. The motorcycle inspection manual will be updated shortly, and the ability to select the defect within the MOT testing service will be removed. Class 3,4,5 and 7 vehicles For class 3,4,5 and 7 vehicles, the defect ‘Light source and lamp not compatible’ only applies to vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986. Should a vehicle be presented for an MOT test with conversions before 1 April 1986 they must not be failed with immediate effect. Vehicles presented with converted halogen headlamp units first used on or after 1 April 1986 will continue to be failed. Headlamps must comply with all other requirements of the test and headlamp aim. The cars and passenger vehicles inspection manual will be updated shortly.
    3 points
  34. yes jess thats exactly what i thought. but again il say theres nothing wrong with standard cav headlights.they were fine back in theday and havnt suddenly got dimmer.its the stupidly bright stuff that you see nowadays that makes older lights look bad.
    3 points
  35. Nadolig Llawen / Merry Christmas
    3 points
  36. Old Diff oil? 😂 Happy Christmas to you all too.🍻🍻
    3 points
  37. Some pics of the rear axle: The axle is not the same as an Opel axle, look at the diff cover. But the suspension like the brackets of the chocks and even the stabilisation bar is the same as a 400. At the right side you can see the bottom trailing arm as the 400 and commodore etc... This pic shows also those bottom trailing arms, on a European Ascona/Cavalier there are fragile tubes used. Behind the brake drum you can see the stabilisation bar. So those cars were made from 1976, three years before the production of the Ascona-400. Lets say we know yet how Opel found out how to fit the commodore axle under the 400 😁.
    2 points
  38. Hey Fin Yep lowered a bit on the back with Koni springs and i had the fronts made from the original Koni ones as they weren't low enough and didn't want to just cut them. I worked out the height i wanted, sent the old ones to a place that makes spring and the worked out the rating on the old and made the new the same rating but lower, as just cutting them increases the rating and makes the ride harder but like this i got the best of both. I think i had a link to the spring place on the blog.
    2 points
  39. Hey Fin I was pretty chuffed with it. As i had that wing spare it was great when i started painting to use as a test to check the gun settings and i also used it to test out getting rid of some runs and now for polishing so its been pretty useful 🙂 The polishing is pretty easy. The thing i have learnt so far is one of the keys is getting the speed right. For the Trizact you can go relatively slow About 1/3 speed seems good and with the cutting compound too slow and it doesn't give you a good finish and too fast and its hard to keep the polisher flat and stable. Cartec said to go on about setting 4 which is about 2/3. You also need to just take your time and be really slow doing it with the 9000 compound as too quick across the panel and again you dont get a good finish. You just use the weight of the polisher, no need to press down on it just keep it level and go slow. Its quite hard to find many good videos that actually talk you through the process properly. Im going to try and find a few more to watch before i tackle the car (and will post if i find a good one) and i need some warmer weather!! This one was quite interesting - www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSPbjicdrkE Its going to be a boring job doing the whole car!! Andy
    2 points
  40. Bill umber deox C gel, and wash off as per instruction then. Bill hamber hydrate 80 to seal it all. Then away you go with whatever primers etc you want. have the ceilign of the grey A series treated with hydrate 80 and all good still over 4 years later, nothing showing
    2 points
  41. I took one of my original radiators to a shop that repairs them, asked to fit a thicker core with more cooling ribs. Was no problem, costed me 180€.
    2 points
  42. if the engine earth cable is good(or new) and tightly attached to bare steel all should be well.if it gets faster if you put a jump lead across from engine block to battery neg then the earth cable is not doing its job and you may feel clutch cable getting hot .or the connections at either end of the engine earth cable. at lot of people forget the engine earth when putting an engine in.probably not the case here but worth asking. if we are sure that side of things is ok then its either starter problem engine too tight ignition timing too advanced
    2 points
  43. Hi Chris, so the problem of the pivot points will be solved when you fit those Eckhard rails. The metal that is used is a lot thicker, but they are not plug & play. I used them also on my GSI but after some grinding and welding they fit nice. Have a look at my topic "New swan neck". Grts, Herman
    2 points
  44. Same process for mine but with the chrome stuff you have to really get it super smooth as any small dents or knocks that you dont get out show up much more once it has been chromed where as just polished up it does not quite show the same. The guy at the chroming place said the people they use would do it on a wheel, using a corse grit, then moving down the grits and then they would use various different cutting compounds until it was super polished. The when they get it back they dip it to remove any polishing compound and then go through the chroming process. I had a couple of bits that looked super smooth to me but once it was chromes you could see a little marking, so must use some good cutting compounds. With the alloy trim i did the same flatting process but before finishing with Autosol i used those 3m Trizac 3000 discs. The only problem with the trim is that over the years its had a few knows and with it not being that thick you cant totally get every knock and mark out so i dotn think it would have been good chromed even if i could have had it done. I think the polishing is the better option. Its the same as painting, the more time you spend on it the better the end results!!
    2 points
  45. yet another weird law exemption then in my opinion. people can now legally fit leds or hids into lights not designed or approved for them and if not checked properly will blind oncoming drivers.and never enough police around to see this. same daft idea as mot exemption for older cars. sorry if i sound a little victor meldrew but you get my point ( hopefully !)
    2 points
  46. I will have a look at our web sites, will keep you posted
    2 points
  47. Last one I got I found on the German eBay and was about £80 all in. @H-400 Might be able to help find one on the continental ebay sites?
    2 points
  48. Correct, it is instant failure with headlight bulbs replacement that is not as type approval. I would definitely not tempt a pull over wrong headlight bulbs. The rules for side and tail lamps are less vague as they do not have a prescribed beam pattern/brightness etc, only about location on vehicle height/width and colour shown.
    2 points
  49. If you send the company an email they will advise and they’re really professional to deal with. Standard lights are crap! like tea-lights in a vase.
    2 points
  50. Very close. Very close but not quite!!! M+S equivalent - salted caramel, as a starter.
    2 points
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