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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/06/20 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Done the last things on the car, fitting the grills in the hood: Made something like a oil catch tank, an empty small metal can that fitted nice if you all can find it: Tolled my son this is NASA-technology😉, he said it looked more like "road kill"🤣 Cleaned the boot, lost somewhere the original carpet so bought a doormat that layed itself nice on the bottom of the boot: Cleaned the interieur, need to buy new floormats: Went Tuesday to that other workshop, they tested the brakes and shocks on a testbank, setted the lights all for 20€! They used to be an Opel workshop so they were happy to see my Manta. Today I passed the MOT, without any advisors. Happy me 😀. Grts, Herman
  2. 9 points
    Lots done on this one since last update, dash in, engine running, brakes done, cluck cable fitted, runs drives etc.. interior all in, doors on, bonet on, seals etc... fitted, side skirts fitted, glass in, lovers in, wheels painted and ready for new tyres, exhaust fitted etc .. etc...
  3. 9 points
    My original Manta heater fan motor has just packed in, so I searched on this forum about VW Polo heater fan upgrades. On Saturday I went to my local breakers yard, couldn’t find a suitable VW Polo but stumbled across a MK2 VW Golf, so I removed the fan motor and armed with screenshots of “how to” I set to work, the easy part was stripping the plastic from the VW fan motor, removing the Manta housing from the broken fan motor and installing the VW Golf fan motor in the plastic using angle brackets and jubilee clip, with help of another Manta owner and a few WhatsApp calls to keep me right I identified the wiring colours, Brown wire was negative, white wire speed 1, yellow and black wire speed2, yellow wire speed 3. next issue was grafting the old wiring loom black connector to the new fan motor, it was decided to use speed settings 2&3 and blank speed 1 off, the original connector was grafted on just behind my insulating tape numbers and the resistor zip tied in place to stop it rattling about, quick note on above picture, I had to reverse the red and brown wire spades right next to the motor to get the fan to run in the right direction, definitely needs checking before finally fitting in place ( don’t ask me how I found out 🤣) again advice was saught for old colours, Black wire was negative, grey speed setting 1, yellow speed setting 2, The original old black Plastic heater wires connector was grafted on, new VW Golf fan motor installed inside the Manta heater box, it is a tight fit in there, cover and rubbers fitted, battery connected back up and now I have a functional heater again but with a 100% improvement on power.
  4. 8 points
    Trim strips refitted and a coat of wax - shiny, shiny! Have a nice evening everyone.
  5. 8 points
    Hello members ived just purchased an cavalier coupe in need off full resto having fond memories in my dad's old one back in 88 all most identical except colour I really appreciate help on location on body panel repair like indicator support and front head lamp support panels. Thanks keith
  6. 8 points
    Good morning everyone, I hope that you are all safe and well today? I am pleased to report two things today: 1) I have successfully managed to wet sand all of those nasty runs out of the paint, primarily used 600 grit wet and dry paper: This means that I can now start to work through the finer papers and then get this panel compounded. Fingers crossed, all should be fine now. 2) Following Paul Barrett's recommendation above, I have treated the old girl to a bottle of this: To be honest, I have no idea if that will be enough for the car, but if it works as suggested, then I will happily invest in some more - thanks again Paul. I would also like to say a huge 'Thank You' to one of our members who has sent me two original rear parcel shelf speaker pods. Please stand up Robah (Rob) - what a superstar! - he wouldn't even let me pay for the postage. I promise to make the install of those part of this project thread. Thanks again Rob, your generosity and kind words have helped me more than you will probably ever realise
  7. 8 points
    Morning all, Its a glorious day down here in Essex and I'm off work today - hooray! This inspired me to do some more work on the bonnet of the Cav. After some wet sanding/flatting, it was onto the G3 compound. Now we have this: The last photo was a bit weird - I think the combination of the overhead fluorescent tubes and the sunshine outside through the phone camera into some strange mode. Having said all that, this is probably the photo that best shows the finish obtained. I'm now feeling quite proud of my £100 all up respray Have a great day everyone.
  8. 8 points
    I found some time this evening to finish wet sanding the roof, then wet over it a couple of times with the G3 compound - not too shabby now really. Have a nice evening everyone.
  9. 7 points
  10. 7 points
  11. 7 points
    Just thought I would Finnish this thread as myself and probably many others come across threads like this and think "that's the problem I've got" to find the trail goes cold. Started with one rev counter as above and the spare turned out to be completely dead both now working the problem was a capacitor on the circuit board this one has leaked. Can be replaced without removing the needle Remove the three brass screws from the back cover do not touch the two recessed screws in the middle then unclip it to remove Remove dial face screws and gently push some tissue in behind to create a little space Make sure you fit the capacitor (16v 47uf) the right way round otherwise it may explode 😂 - stripe and shorter tail + Longer tail + On circuit board is the one closest to the center of dial.may not fix every rev counter but for 20p got to be worth a go.
  12. 7 points
  13. 7 points
    This was my first car, beginning of the eighties! Was already in the army and also a spanner monkey but I solled it cause it spend more time in my workshop and not on the road: A Datsun Silvia! Next foto of today: We both father & son working in our cars, I noticed the Nissan has got a full independed suspension at the rear but has got some flyrust so work has got to be done before MOT! ( I took the pic, you'r all looking at my son, I'm not that thin anymore 😄) Gonna use the upper switch of the front fog lights to activate the electrical fan in front of the radiator. That will be used to switch a relais on that will power the fan with the source of the electrical heated rear window. Hope my English is good enough to explain... Fitted 10 years ago a 21W bulb in the light cluster as a rear fog light but this time we go LED: Everything works but not happy with the dim ligts. Cleaned them with deminerilised water but the corrosion looks too bad, hope I can find a solution but more about this later: Enjoy your weekend, grts Herman
  14. 6 points
    Managed to grab some time during my lunch break today. Good news the water and clamp bodge seems to have worked and the edge of the parcel shelf board is fairly straight again: After refitting the pod top covers, a quick spruce up with some dashboard cleaner has it looking a good deal fresher than it was: And back in the car and connected up - sounds great too!
  15. 6 points
  16. 6 points
  17. 6 points
    Gave the Insignia new oil & filter, was more than 1 year ago... And drove to my "400". The car is still in the Oldtimer storage 😢, those corona stuff and the work on the GSI made me impossible to drive it. Had to remove the front bumper to put the fan in front of the radiator. Tried first above, removed the locking system (had to fit those special washers anyway)but that new redone radiator is thicker so not done: The frame is from a Renault 21 and the engine/fan is Opel. From above: Searching for the right cable from fuse 5, rear window heater. That can handle the electrofan: Made an extra loom, comming out the bulkhead next to the accelerator cable and going together with the main loom to the relais right side of the coil, follows the loom of the indicators to the fan: The bumper is back on it's place and today I went for a drive to a local (ex-Opel) workshop to talk about adjusting the front lights and the brake test. Brakes need another bleeding and have to screw the shocks harder cause they have some play between the rubbers. Mondaymorning the car goes to another workshop for the wheel alignment. The engine runs great and the gearbox shifts like new. Grts, Herman
  18. 6 points
    Here’s my view, a GM enthusiast for too long than I care to remember; Manta, Kadett C and GT owner (Multiple!!!) and as a classic car dealer .... how many of you looked at? I did on Thursday afternoon and whilst it was nice I’m a long way from convinced that it was entirely original, there was plenty of evidence of it having had paint and whilst ‘yes’ it was done to a good standard, it wasn’t mint (not my mint!) .... I was especially disappointed with the sill extensions, they been pop-riveted on all the way down with the original clip holes still being evident. The inner wing to front panel area was just starting to burst out, the engine lacked any detail and looking at it, you could have been forgiven for thinking that you might have been looking at an engine that had done 150,000 miles, not 50k! As for the interior, generally ok, but the drivers seat outer bolster had collapsed altogether, the piping was out of shape and split. As for the history file, it was decidedly underwhelming, a few stamps in the dealer booklet and 2/3 incidental invoices, but noting to get excited about, I could not have put our business on it at £20k retail, tbh I would have struggled to see it at £15k, without us doing our usual of spending loads and giving our time FOC. And before you think I’m being a negative Nancy and bitter that I missed it, I’ll say this .... Swan Necks / Jacking points .... they were brill, a massive plus point!! Where did I see it? As it is, no more than £9k, with the thought of spending upto £1k to rectify with a retail figure of £12-13k. I’d like to think it’s gone to a privateer, I hope they do the car justice. If goes out to Trade, let’s see what they do...most will chuck a bucket of water over it and that’s it ..... we’re not all the same.
  19. 6 points
  20. 6 points
    I nipped out this morning having decided to go for a heavier duty set & came back raring to go - alas, the set I'd bought was M12-M18... I discovered I actually needed an M10. So, off out again for another hour round trip but this time took the disk/hub with me! Anyway, the guys in Machine Mart in Brighton were really helpful genuine car enthusiasts & I now have a proper grown-up set. Getting the bolts out involved another generous soaking with easing fluid & hitting the brand new M10 spline tool with a hammer while perched on the bolt and finally resorting to 18" pipe on each side of a 1/2" T bar. I've got 1 side done & after much grief with one of the hex headed bolts that holds the caliper on the other side I'm 1/2 way there tonight.
  21. 6 points
    Had some work on the Corsa of my son, one of his friends slammed the door and the glass fell down. So my son was rather angry, and when we opened the doorcard and I said him we would solve this problem in the morning. I showed him how to fix something like that, he workes in a Mercedes garage but some times he needs his old man... He always wanted an oldtimer for himself. I said to him you can drive the GSI when I take the "400" to meetings and have together fun with those two Manta's. So this is what he bought: A Nissan Sunny Coupé '88! He even asked me to give my opinion so what can a dad do in this case? That car looks ok, the chassisrails also and the interieur is as it's just out of the showroom. Engine runs nice and the car has got 120K's on the klock... The GSI: The interieur is back in the car, looks nice: Fitted the widscreen wiper engine and wipers and some other things: The rear bumper on it's place, together with the black thing (?) between the rear lights: Did this years ago and also with my "400", cutting the rear "400"bumper so it doesn't touch the body: Grts, Herman
  22. 6 points
    I think Ian gives inspiration to us all to be fair 👍
  23. 6 points
    40 profile Before and after
  24. 5 points
  25. 5 points
    Look who came to see what all the fuss was about in the garage....
  26. 5 points
    So I finally collected this today. The engine has done 90 thousand but I’m planning on a rebuild anyway . Big thank you to Jess for posting it’s availability on the club forum. Does anyone know what the rear axles are like in these. I expect they are probably flimsy but i could be wrong 🤔
  27. 5 points
    Hello Gentlemen. My name in Anders and I am a fresh owner of a Manta A -75. I bought it on an impulse late fall last year, unseen and untested, drove it to my parents place and parked it indoors over winter. Not really looking things over at that time other than thinking it needed some work to shine as it should. Soooo, now I have brought it home. It was a 1500 km long drive with zero problems and many smiles. And I have had half a year to collect parts and excuses to do things with it... Other than a new set of rims and a little bit of lowering, I will keep it looking next to stock. It has had a new engine installed in a previous life, so I don't feel like I'm doing anything wrong by swapping in a 2,4 with a 2,0 head, a getrag 240 and new internals in the rear end. Also there will be bigger brakes at least in front. Goal: make it more driveable with lower rpms at normal highway speed. Bonus: More torque. And there is a respray in here too. I have read a lot in this forum about this car, and I look forward to participate and learn as I plan to keep this car for a long time. I still have my first car (strange enough it's a Volvo sugga that I bought two years before I was old enough to drive a car legaly) and I have had it for almost 35 years now, so some cars are keepers to me 🥰 If it's ok to ask my first question in this forum along with my introduction it will be: What colour code do you guys think I have? Don't mind the black stuff 🙂, it's the orange colour I'm wondering about. Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Best wishes from Norway ☺️
  28. 4 points
    I would personally fit new ones rather than reuse them just to save a few pennies after all the work you are going to do. This has actually remined me to post this, so this seems a good time as any before I lose the bit of paper ther're written on! I done some digging around and found the part numbers you need to look for when looking for these as they are used on other makes like Jaguar, so may make them easier to find. Injector seals: EAC2415 (14mm x 8.5mm x 4.4mm) Injector body clamp rubbers: EAC2414 (31mm x 21.5mm x 8mm)
  29. 4 points
    Bought the battery tray from Germany realising it's for Lhd car so had to reverse the panel beat it up to the upper side.
  30. 4 points
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  31. 4 points
    Some nice progress this morning. The Drivers side rear quarter is now wet sanded and compounded - pretty pleased with that. Will put a bit of polish on there after lunch. Have a nice afternoon everyone.
  32. 4 points
    Well as usual a lot has been done but pictures are an after thought. it’s now nearly ready to go and have some paint, just waiting for the headlining and off it can go. just finished the fuel system and rear brakes, everything is new, so hopefully will be trouble free motoring (Yeh right!!!) it’s just a bit dusty but as they say “no dirt no work!” huge thanks to Neil too. next few jobs are doors to prep, column to refit, handbrake cable to connect and tidy up the wiring.......I am sure there’s a few more jobs to add but I am confident that another day will have it ready for paint.
  33. 4 points
  34. 4 points
  35. 4 points
    WOW, with buyers premium just sold for £15,544!.
  36. 4 points
    I had a Sunny when I was a student, paid 80 quid for it, lasted me a full year and didn't spend a penny on it....bought a newer car (mk2 Cav) which failed on me right away, couldn't figure out what was up so got the mechanic out who spotted the Sunny and asked if I wanted rid... he gave me 80 quid off my bill 😁
  37. 4 points
    I use long bolts to fit the front bumper, they are easy to find with a spanner If you need to remove the bumper. I can recommend that when your Manta needs to be towed away: Checking for rust, spraying some Dinitrol after fitting the skirts: Painted the trim that surrounds the windows, and fitting them: Cleaning before putting the rear window in the car: I needed that special tool to put the plastic trim into the rubber, made it myself with thick steel wire and a vise-grip: Grts, Herman
  38. 4 points
  39. 4 points
    You wouldn't believe this unless you've seen it but to add the side repeaters in Opel just scotch locked the extra wires in off the indicator feed by the dash. And yes I did say scotch lock from the manufacturer. Mantadoc had a thread on this somewhere and I didn't believe it until I saw it myself on a couple of mantas.
  40. 4 points
    That’s a great looking coupe, should reach its estimated value easily enough I would expect. 👍
  41. 4 points
    Fitted a damping mat on the floorpan, the insulating mat is after 38 year looking as a patchwork. Some pieces are fixed with insulation of trucks etc.: The carpets on their place, repairing a kickpanel and wanted to fit the rather new pioneer stereo. Gets power on all the needed wires, mass also but stayed dead. Checked the fuse behind the Din-plug but was good. So I tried the old stereo of my Vectra and that one worked ok, one speaker is failing but that can not be difficult: Today I had enough of wires and looms, sealed the thin gap so I I hope the back of the lights stay dustfree: The GSI has got a face again 😄, had to use shims between the brackets of the frontbumper. The gap between the bumper and the wing was left 3mm and right more than 10mm, and fiddled a bit with the black trim to let it look acceptable. Repeaters work also: With closed bonnet, needs also some adjustment: Have a nice evening all, Herman
  42. 4 points
    Well the wheels arrived today out if the blue. Still no contact made by the seller,he didn't even mark them as dispatched. Strange way of doing business to say the least, but atleast they have arrived. They are now in the tyre shop for some new boots. 235 fronts and 285 rears 😳
  43. 3 points
    Hello everyone. Decided to join as a lot of the info I have used so far on my project has come from here so be rude not to. I am sure I will be asking lots of questions in the future. Lots of pics going up on my insta too @ryanwakely89 Cheers
  44. 3 points
    I have been after one of these since I had my engine fully refurbished years ago. The guy who did my engine recommended them as it helps save excessive wear and premature failure of the camshaft. So recently purchased one off ebay for my 1900 coupe. Fitted it yesterday. Nice easy job. Got engine up to temperature and removed rocker cover..Then carefully tapped the oil level raiser into the oil return hole at the back of the cylinder head. Then refitted the rocker cover. Job done.😁👍 Just make sure you have your tools handy to do the job and to gain access as quickly as possible. As you need the head as hot as possible so everything has fully expanded. Easier fitment of oil level raiser... Just be careful not to burn yourself 🤞🤪. Good luck.
  45. 3 points
  46. 3 points
    Few bits done today. Re underseal all underside, painted the axle and cross member etc... painted callipers, fitted new mudflaps. Just need to tidy up the tatty looking interior now. Not gone mad underneath as it'll only get battered lol
  47. 3 points
    Man, this is a nice looking car!
  48. 3 points
    love reading this when i start feeling that daunted what have i taken on kind of thing well done mate
  49. 3 points
    MOT'd with no advisories, should reach the top end of its estimate. Suspect a few well known classic car dealers will want this one at the right price.
  50. 3 points
    Had a quick play. I measured just resistance and moved the flap and had the measurments jump up and down. I did think it may be logarithmic rather than linear but that wouldn't explain the resistance droping lower than the previous measurement. With linear, if you plotted it on a graph, resistance against pot rotation position, you should get a straight diagonal line. There is more going on inside than just a carbon track and the wiper. However, it can be checked easily with voltage and the output shouldl be linear. These are my results after a quick try. I used a digital multimeter. Pin numbers taken from the AFM. Pin 5 and 8 - 362 ohms I just used a 1.5v new AAA battery. All we're looking for is a smooth consistant output. I wouldn't advise using a rechargeable battery because of the high output current if something went tits up like a short! Connect battery to: +v at pin 5 0v at pin 8 Measure the output on pin 7. With the flap closed: 1.2v (looking at hobbys photo above, the wiper doesn't go right to the end of the track, hence why it's 1.2v instead of 1.5v) Flap fully open: 0.38v Moving the flap gave a smooth changing voltage level. No guarantee mine is a good one to begin with but was working ok. Think I have a spare I could compare it to. Just to cover my arse, obviously don't do this while it's still connected to the ECU!
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