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Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/01/18 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Gents, The car is my car, I been deliberating a while as to whether to sell this car, once its gone I cant get another like it. I been a member on and off over the years , there are posts somewhere that I have mentioned the mileage and condition of the car are possibly archived. There are pictures there also. The condition of the car is genuine as is the mileage.I been asked many many times to sell it by various people local to me. How much do you ask for ? is a good question , its been a part of my life for so long , that's what it would take for me to part with it. May not be its true value , either way low or high. The car is only worth whats its worth to a person wanting it, its got to be right for me to sell it also. What makes an escort, nova, 205 so valuable, why not a manta? I am based in Aberdeen , I know people like Jock , Craig and Rab , are probably aware of the car, Mike ,Andy, Jim are guys who can vouch for its present condition. Email is a problem for me at the moment , trying to get my account unlocked is proving to be a pain.
  2. 2 points
    Being honest I agree. Black plates on newer cars look awful!
  3. 2 points
    I pay for my membership and haven't been to Billing since 2014 and even then I never had any BBQ. My membership helps pay for it but I don't expect to get cheap/free food, but if it helps to get new members to join then I am glad to give up my share. I joined the club for the marquee of car and variants to aid in it's upkeep and everything that comes with it is a bonus. Doesn't matter what you do in membership people will moan. The web membership was originally setup for overseas enthusiasts that wouldn't be making the shows, (correct me if I am wrong), but people in this country don't go to the shows etc. so I can see why they don't want to pay for others to show their vehicles. The OMOC have to have liability insurance for you to show your car under the OMOC banner. I don't do much in the way of shows but will still pay the £25/year as I want to support the club as much as possible. I do agree with you that the committee members and area reps job's are thankless and very time consuming, and there is a lot of head banging trying to sort things out for members to turn up and take the glory/prizes etc. that the staff have helped to achieve. I easily save well over the £25 membership price due to being a member as I get discount from other members and I have a vast array of friends with knowledge who are willing to help other members.
  4. 1 point
    depending on the level of restoration you are going for i remember a paint spray kit that was available from one of the restoration company’s a few years ago it was if i remember correctly a combination of coloured paints that you spray lightly over each other to give various bare metal brakets the “as new”anodised look. i have managed to recreate a similar effect by using a base gold mettallic and a light top coat of light green mettallic and a very final coat of orange or red,followed by a clear laquer top coat.hard to explain and needs some experimentation with the colours and amounts but does give a good effect.ideal for washer bottle mounting,bonnet stay,distributor cap clips,and various other parts. also spraying the brake pipes another colour other than copper is a good idea. i think originally they are a dull silver grey but maybee this is taking it all a. it too far. does look good thou ! !
  5. 1 point
    I have to agree. Just doesn't look right on later cars. It does suit that K plate Manta A however.
  6. 1 point
    hi steven. ok so it sounds as thou the engine and items such as plugs,leads ,arm,and cap should all be ok. if you have moved the timing then i would say you need to make sure this is ok first.i assume you have a timing lightt .if so i would set up the lamp as normal on plug lead number 1 Because you dont know if any adjustment has been carried out on the carburrettor throttle stop screws(hopefully not!)i would unplug the vacuum pipe from the distributor and plug the end up and do the first basic test with a thin wire inserted up into each spark plug and to earth EXEPT number 1.(or remove the three leads and ground them one way or another).this is to make sure the engine will not run and will give an accurate timing reading on cranking over only.this is because at a fast idle which yours has the centrifugal weights especially if worn or weak could start to advance the timing. then with an assistant to crank the engine aim the light at the bottom pulley and pointer.the marks should be bought into perfect alignment and the distributor tightened and marked with a suitable paint dot or stanley knife line to denote position. this is a basic static test next i would remove all little earthing wires and run the engine up to temperature. now put the timing light on again and with vacuum pipe still disconnected start the engine and re check the timing again. if its still in line then all well and good but if its now advanced it means the distributor is starting to advance by itself which it realy shouldnt at 1000 rpm. if its still ok.plug in the vacuum advance .hopefully it will still be ok.if not it means the throttle stop screw has been played with and is too far open.. what should happen in a correctly set up system is the timing should be in line at idle and advance ABOVE idle only. a sharp blip of the throttle sholud cause an immediate advance .the weights inside the distributor control a mechsnical advance which should gradually advance as the engine speed increases. sorry if this sounds a bit complicated but its only because you dont know if the throttle dtop screw has been adjusted and to be honest you realy need a vacuum guage in low scale to set it up totally correct but hopefully we should be able to get it somewhere near. but i must stress ....never adjust the throttle stop screw if you can help it.they are factory set to give the correct vacuum and have a cap put over thrm. any way this is stage 1 completed. basic ignition timing.you now know the timing is correct and in line. please note this is for using the old 4star high octane leaded fuel or any of the modern high octane fuels. if you use 95ron unleaded you may need to back off the timing slightly if the pinking noise is heard. say up to 5 degrees,approx 5-7mm on the pulley . so stage one completed. hopefully. have fun. chris""...
  7. 1 point
    £20K....... Hmmmm. Ive said it before, but as the OMOC I think we should take charge of what a Manta is actually worth. It's Great that cars are coming up at these prices, but is it a real price or a hope to get? As I was restoring my car last year price were going up quite dramatically. I now have agreed insurance value for 10K. Do you think it would be wise for the committee to arrange a price guide to set average UK prices for each model with it's variants IE 1.8S, GT/J Etc. Etc. and base this on condition and rarity? I know it would be a bit of work but it might give us an idea of what are cars are actually worth.
  8. 1 point
    Black & Silver plates used to be legal on cars registered before January 1st 1973 however i believe that since the government changed the rules on historic vehicle class to a 40 year rolling rule then once your car qualifies for historic vehicle tax then legally you can fit the "older style" plates. I tend to prefer cars to wear the plates that would have been fitted in that year. My 1972 Manta is fitted with black & silver plates but when it was supplied new i believe it had Yellow & white plates as from that era most new cars were being fitted with the new style plates & the old style plates were being phased out
  9. 1 point
    For £20k I'd want all original paint!
  10. 1 point
    Pictures would be nice! Why do people try and sell anything without bloody pictures. 🤭
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