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  1. 13 points
    Thought I’d share a few pics of my latest mods on the old girl. Bought some brand new daytona check material and had the centres of a pair of leather Escort RS Turbo recaros retrimmed. So much comfier than the GM seats. This past weekend has been spent fitting my new air ride set up which I’m glad to say I’m very happy with. I was sick of being pissed off with my ride height so thought this was the only way to go😎 Has anyone else got air ride? If so I’d like to hear what you think of it...good or bad...
  2. 13 points
    Last mot was around 2 years ago amazing how time flys by Quick fluid check mini service checked the brakes whipped it to local testing station passed with no advisory’s 👍👍 finally got my genuine engelman mirrors and irmsher twins also changed bonnet never felt comfortable with the old 1 with the bonnet catches so put 1 with a metal frame so I could have a proper catch ( still needs a little adjustment and the sticker replacing same with the front air dam will sort that next weekend totally forgot the smiles per gallon 😃
  3. 12 points
    Finally............my date for final spray was pushed on another week, what’s another week to wait in the grand scheme of things? But now for the final push. Monday 15th April the bodyshop starts work back on the Manta, Delivered the Manta to the paint shop first thing this morning, hopefully in a weeks time she will look completely different, doors, bonnet, boot, wings, skirts and bumpers fitted, dash and wiring loom back in, then hopefully the rest of the work will just fall into place quite quickly, don’t want to miss this summer months ahead!
  4. 11 points
    And finally back on the road!! She's back on the road at long last!!
  5. 11 points
    Hi, I have finally got my hands on a Manta, I had always dreamed of getting a white hatchback and here she is. Currently located at a friend's lock up. I hope to have her back on the road and at some shows for next summer. She is still MOT'ed but there are a couple of wee things I want to attend to. Rory
  6. 11 points
    We had a great weekend, some pics: The Missus made some pics with the handy, got to upload them... Herman
  7. 10 points
    So the last time this car was stripped and welded was back in 2003/04. It’s seen a lot of action and miles all flat out and driven very hard. Life got in the way and I was going to sell up. I decided to stick it in a garage and leave it. I used it without a care in the world for a further two years and put it in a garage as it wouldn’t pass an MOT with the state of the chassis leg on the drivers side, it’s sat untouched since then for three years under a cover. So since then I moved back from Spain, bought my new home and got engaged it’s now the right time to get D114 BCW on the road and showing it the love I showed it 15 years ago when I bought it. Plans are replace the chassis legs, jacking points and wheel well (even if parts are solid there’re being replaced) the boot floor where it meets the back panel looks crusty too - basically all the bits I never did 15 years ago (I was only 15) 😬 i am going to put new doors on it and get a new headlining made for it as this non sunroof one back in the day was a hard find but it’s bloody horrible. And just do bits that annoy me. next couple of year I want an LSD and toying with the idea of englemanns 🤔 don’t know yet. Here todays progress, 1 man - 6 hours
  8. 10 points
    Good morning Manta club Hopefully i should have my Manta A back on the road shortly although i am looking for a new acelarator cable if anybody can help me out I owned a Manta A sr back in the late 70s i could not resist this car when i saw it at auction 3 years ago hoping to have it out for early August Regards Alan
  9. 9 points
    Today I have been messing about with 'stuff'. As it was a nice day I decided to get the old girl out of the garage to get some fresh air.... Today I have: - Set the timing using my new timing light, purchased at the Practical Classics show in March. - Set the auto box/carb damper pot/plunger. - adjusted the mixture a tiny bit. - set the idle speed. The car now starts freely and idles nicely. When revved it sounds clean and powerful, which is very pleasing. As I still need two new mounting rubber, the exhaust vibrates and touches the body at every opportunity. Also, I still have a blow from somewhere in the region of the exhaust down pipes or manifold. Not too fussed just yet, that should be fairly straightforward - fingers crossed! Spurred on by these small victories I could not resist taking it down the end of our road and back. The one massive worry I have had all along is: what about if auto box failure was the reason the thing was taken off the road in the first place?! I should not have worried though, it changed through the gears beautifully - phew!!! My Son was just off out, so he caught this tiny piece of history for me on his phone. Remember this is the first time in over 21 years this car has turned a wheel on a road...
  10. 9 points
    Made some good progress today. We got fuel and brake lines ran. Bias valve and bracket installed, Heater box in, mesh in scuttle panel 're painted and fitted, more routing of wires, zink plated pedal box fitted, swapped out front cross member bolts for the ones I had zink plated, fuel pump and filter fitted to zink plated brackets and wired in, and new rubber fuel hose fitted.new rubber bobbin was also used on fuel pump bracket, fuel tank flushed, dried and painted, door new door switches fitted in A posts for interior light, bonett stay and rubbers fitted, floor gromits all fitted. There's so many small little parts to hunt out, clean, replace it's takes up so much time. You forget how many little bits there are till you start putting them back together. 😂
  11. 9 points
    A busy Friday on the Manta, Brian the local sign writer fitted the Manta GT/E decals and engine bay sticker, A bit of detail for the engine bay, Manta ready to come home, bodyshop has completed all the work required to bring her up to spec, making her like new again, That’s me on the right picking up my Manta from Gray and Adams bodyshop in Fraserburgh this afternoon, Darren the bodyshop manager and Ross. The team have went above and beyond, their attention to detail has been brilliant, 475 hours labour has went into this part of the bodywork alone, panel prep, alignment, guide coat, sanding and spraying, to be honest the finished job has way exceeded my expectations, absolutely delighted with the results, back home in my garage now, I’m keen to start finishing off the small jobs still to do, the decals really finished Off the exterior, I’m going to enjoy the rest of the build, probably towards the end of the year I envisage for completion,
  12. 9 points
    Hi Julian, cars are yet designed by computers. So if you ask a computer of HP a mathematical problem or a computer of another mark it will give you the same answer. So a lot of cars look the same. What you tolled about the Wolsey is new for me, allways nice to learn about those details. Some more about Old Opels On Tour: They make a special "Blitz-Bier" (Beer), and they use my car on their bottle together with two others😊. Must I go to the AA? Some more foto's: Is that a genuine TE2800? This is an real original TE2800! Very rare car: Grts, Herman
  13. 9 points
    Just found this pic from Feb 1985, with polished (filthy at the time) Wolfrace slots & B F Goodrich Radial TA tyres. And currently:
  14. 9 points
    Well, as I said the Manta's been certified, and in fact it's been certified for over a year now. The car was with my friend Preston in Orange County for around four months until we were in a position to get it back. Since then it's been parked in the garage and pretty much untouched other than a couple of trips around the area where we live, I hurt my back while moving and I've not really been up to doing much. Slowly getting it off the transporter without grounding Back with the rest of the fleet All that fuss for this sticker - California certification Actually two labels, notice the white vacuum diagram on the right hand inner wing. The battery's new too - they must have left it connected while it was being stored prior to certification and destroyed it. Sigh. First trip - all of half a mile down to the post office! Present from Santa to keep it clean in the garage One area of the car was still nagging me, though, and that's the centre console. The cassette holders are a nice period feature, but honestly they're totally useless nowadays. I actually have a few C90 cassettes still at home but not enough to fill all the slots, and besides, I don't have a tape player in the car! There had to be something I could do with it. One idea was to get a cheap Android tablet and fit it into the area vacated by the cassette holders, then I could run Google Maps on it and have a built-in nav system, music player and other useful apps. The only problem with that was an Internet connection and I haven't yet installed a WiFi hot spot in the car... I suppose I could use my iPhone as a mobile hotspot, but at that point I might as well just put the iPhone in the instrument binnacle and use it to nav for me (which is what I do when I need a nav system these days). The next idea was to use a Raspberry Pi - it's a reasonably powerful computer you can hold in the palm of your hand, it's cheap and it has loads of expansion possibilities. I actually went as far as making up a nav system with a nice big touch screen, GPS receiver, the Raspberry Pi, and a set of maps for the US on an SD card and it worked fairly well. The only problems were 1) I still didn't have a WiFi hotspot so I still couldn't do much with it and 2) it was very distracting looking down at the centre console all the time to consult the map. OK, scrap that one too. My final idea was a trip computer, it's a useful toy, it'll fit down in the centre console and you don't have to stare at it all the time. The Monza has one and so do all cars these days, so why not the Manta? Can't be that difficult. I had a BMW trip computer in my stash of parts and initially thought about using that, but BMW wiring and Opel wiring are different enough that it was going to be quite a mess to use, so scratch that. The next idea was a RHD Monza trip computer. My Monzas are LHD and the trip computer's a big sucker, but the RHD ones are completely different for some reason and small enough to fit in the centre console. I'd bought one off Derek Thompson at GM6 in Penzance years ago so it was worth a go. With unusual foresight I had included most of the wiring for a trip computer when I was rewiring the car and so I just had to find all the connectors and run the wires over to the unit and give it a go. Monza trip computer test fit Well it worked, but there were problems. - Firstly, the Monza is a 6-cylinder 3.0 litre car and the Manta's a 4-cylinder 2.4. That was easy enough to fix, the Monza workshop manual showed there was a setting you could make to tell the trip computer it was a 2.0 or 2.2 litre 4-cylinder car and that would work perfectly. Done. - Secondly the speed didn't display correctly, and that was down to different gearing. I have a vehicle speed sensor in the car for the Becker stereo and it calibrates itself to whatever it sees for speed pulses, so all I'd need to do would be to find the right speed sensor to give me the correct number of pulses per revolution. Again, luck was on my side as the sensor I was using (Ascona C) had multiple flavours, and the 8 pulse one would be just what I needed. Quick order to OCP and it was on its way. - Finally the fuel tank was a different size. The Monza is 70 litres and the Manta only 50, so I'd need to do some magic there to convince the trip computer to show the correct range. A twist to this one is that the trip computer really didn't like the Manta's old mechanical instrument voltage regulator. Because of the way the instruments are designed, Opel could get away with the cheap mechanical voltage regulator that switches between zero and battery voltage periodically, making an average of 10V. The trip computer needed to see a voltage referenced against a true constant 10V source, so I had to make a solid state voltage regulator to replace it. Not hard, just fiddly... It was about that time that I stumbled across the Senator B trip computer in a magazine and it looked perfect. The Monza trip computer had a tiny display and buttons on the trip computer itself (quite a stretch from the driver's seat) but the Senator one was almost exactly the same size but had a bigger display and remote operating buttons, so I could place them where it would be easiest to reach. A call to Derek at GM6 and a week later I had one in my hands. Senator B trip computer, luckily similar connections to the Monza one Now these trip computers can be "personalized" by little plug-in modules to work for 4-cylinder Carltons or 6-cylinder Carlton / Senators and unfortunately all Derek had in stock was one from a 6-cylinder car. Oh well, back to that problem again, but this time it was worse because you had to get the module reprogrammed in order to change the personality and I didn't have the means to do it. The local Vauxhall dealer in Reading was a bust - I asked them if they could reprogram them (Vauxhall's workshop manual "TIS" said they could) but they looked at me as though I was from Mars and said they had no idea what I was talking about. Oh well. A bit of Googling landed me a chap who a couple of years ago had built a programmer for them and offered a reprogramming service if you could tell him what personality number you needed. I knew just what I needed so I contacted him. After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing we agreed we had different number lists. I had a list on TIS that said I needed number 31, he said his numbers started at 50, so he offered to reprogram it to the closest number he could find - 55. A while later I had a reprogrammed module in my hand, I connected it up and found that 55 was a later number for a C30NE Senator B. Sigh. I had changed it from being an early 6-cylinder to a later one. I had to do something different. The good thing is that I used to do electronics as a hobby (and even as a job before I switched to software) so I had some options. My first try was to build a divide by 1.5 circuit on the basis that the injection signal was pulsing at 1.5x the number I needed (6 cylinders instead of 4, right) but the problem was that it didn't preserve the widths of the injection pulses, and it was those that were important. If you think about it, the amount of fuel being used is determined by two things - the pressure of the fuel in the rail and the amount of time the injector is open. Since the pressure is constant, it's the amount of time the injector is open that we're measuring in the trip computer, so I actually needed to divide the number of pulses by 1.5 but keep the actual width of the pulses the same so that it divided the amount of fuel measured by 1.5. Trust me, there's no simple electronic circuit to do that! There's a popular little computer you can buy for a few pounds at Amazon (and other places) called an Arduino. It's a lot less powerful than the Raspberry Pi, but it's a great little thing for connecting to motors and switches to make something computer controlled. It's also great for what I needed. I just happened to have the smallest one (the Arduino Nano) in a drawer at home so I started prototyping what I'd need. To make a long story short, a little external circuitry and only 75 lines of C++ code later and I had exactly what I needed. It converted the signal from the ECU from 12V down to 5V, fed that into the Arduino where it did it's divide by 1.5 (preserving the pulse widths and relative frequency) and then converted the output signal back to 12V for the trip computer. The Arduino being tested. The little board closest to the camera generates the test signal that mimics the Motronic ECU Well, that was my fuel signal sorted and I had the different speed sensor swapped in, the only thing left was the fuel level. My first (and badly thought out) attempt was to try to level shift the signal from the fuel tank to make the tank seem more empty than it was, but I got that one so badly wrong I blew up the solid state instrument voltage stabilizer, something I've never been able to do before! Out with the instruments and more soldering... Notice the diagonal crack in the casing? Takes real skill to do this! Back to the drawing board, and I realized I had the ideal solution just staring me in the face - the Arduino; it claimed it could read analog signals (i.e. voltages) and output them too. It really wasn't taxing itself much with the divide by 1.5 routine, so I set to and added the fuel level adjustment into it - that worked out well because it needed a little fudging to match the fuel tank sender to what the book says it should have been producing and that sort of thing is simple in code, just a single line in fact. So another 30 lines of C++ later and I had my fuel level adjustment sorted. The only twist in the tale was that it really couldn't output voltages, instead it output pulses that could be (fairly easily) converted into voltages. I was never good with analog electronics, but the Internet makes everyone a genius, and a couple of integrated circuits later I had exactly what I needed. Back in the car and a short trip round the block and things were looking good, it was time to get the whole lot to fit. I bought some sheet ABS and made up a replacement for the cassette trays. The trip computer fills the entire space, top to bottom, and is set over on the driver's side. The remainder I decided to split with a horizontal shelf, making a cubby for things like glasses (I'm getting old, I have multiple sets) and a space below that was the original tray. I wanted to hide the USB power connector and aux connector out of the way so I put them at the back of the lower shelf. It's fiddly to find, but beautifully hidden out of the way. The trip computer and shelf Centre console modified to take the control buttons The console back in place, if you look carefully you can see the USB in the centre under the shelf I really need to tidy this wiring up! 300 miles to empty... 0.4 gallons per hour at idle I'm lighting everything up inside the car (it's a bit like a disco in there to tell the truth) so the shelves have short strips of LEDs to provide the lighting and I chose a suitable resistor to dim them down. With the shelf being coated in black speaker carpet (both to hide the shiny black ABS plastic and also help hold things in place) the effect is that the light isn't visible except when something is placed in the shelf, just what I wanted. So that's where I am now, car's pretty much sorted. There are still some things to do, like swap the fuel tank (microscopic hole somewhere) and fit a centre arm rest (saw someone else's project on here and want to do the same thing) but now it's down to driving it.
  15. 8 points
    After the two or three kicks in the nuts I've had over the weekend with this car, I was seriously considering throwing in the towel. The paint runs yesterday and the general finish of the bonnet across it in reflection) had left me down on my chin strap and cursing myself. Having slept on it, I have decided to take the positives instead. Things I have achieved since I started: - the rust is gone and replaced with new metal - the car starts, runs and stops - the body lines/shapes that I was let down by last time are done now - the paint is generally quite good now and the runs and bonnet 'marks' can be sorted out as I go/later So I am going to get up, dust myself off and get back on that damn horse. I owe it to myself, not to give up now - onwards!
  16. 8 points
    Ok so here i go again! Picked up this car just after i bought my last project D91 MOP, it was sat at a local garage that i drive by most days but was under a tarp so never realised what it was until we had a windy day. Long story short checked it out as front end only showing, turned out to be a 1983 berlinetta 1.8 coupe. Did the deal there and then and took it away the following day, its been in storage while i was doing the other Manta but now its time to start the next build! It has a full set of berlinetta wheels but 3 flat tyres so i put on some alloys to get it moving. Not sure why but i tend to like the rusty ones, this one also has rear end damage Got the engine running from a petrol can but sounded ok Interior, well most of it is there but seats are damaged/worn and most trim has marks also dash has couple of sun cracks in the middle Ok first thing was to get the car in the garage and strip it completely down, i can then see the main rust issues and start to collect replacement parts/panels etc The plans i have for the car are still in the planning stage, but i've always wanted to do a 400 replica. First things first must get the shell solid but as a little taster i picked up my 400 kit from Martin this week and couldn't resist just hanging it on.
  17. 8 points
    Every year we participate with this meet, was a nice break between working and restoring cars, enjoy the pics: This was the first part, uploading...
  18. 8 points
    Just to let you know that the OMOC has purchased this item today for the club supply of panels for remanufacture. It is one of the amazing benefits that we have as a club, as have some funds in the bank and we are using them to stock up on these parts so that we have a future for the cars and the club. Some panels are already in the process of being remanufactured by our provider Expressed Steel Panels. Exciting times ahead!
  19. 8 points
    Enjoy the video: Grts, Herman
  20. 8 points
    Sunday morning run for the midlands clan to the Caffeine & Machine.
  21. 8 points
    It’s the small details that make a big difference and provide a finishing touch to a project, when I bought the Manta three years ago, there was no boot liner or petrol tank concealing card, I know these can be made but I keep a look out for original parts, not easy to locate but thanks to another Manta owner I now have sourced these and trial fitted to see how it looks, from this, To this, now the boots tidy, Pleased with the result.
  22. 8 points
    Spent a bit of time in the garage this week, started on the o/s/r lower 1/4 panel, there was also some repair needed to the floor. The inner strengthener had completely gone towards the bottom where it meets the floor to 1/4 section, so i cut out upto a good section and fabricated and welded in the new piece once the strength was back in and the floor repaired i moved onto repairing the 1/4, as this is a shape with different curves i made it in a few pieces to make life easier Next i started on the arch, as i will be fitting a 400 arch i wanted to cut out all the rot and make up a good edge from which i can then fabricate a piece to finish off once the arch was in place. I did it in 2 sections, rear first as i didn't want the 1/4 panel to distort Next job will be to do the front half down to the cill section (still waiting on cill panel).
  23. 8 points
    One whole day, 7am start till 5pm finish has taken this from a shell on a dolly to a rolling project, engine and gearbox in, subframes and wheels on plus exhaust, I’m happy with that for a days work,
  24. 8 points
  25. 8 points
  26. 8 points
    Ok so here are the finished pic's! Sorry about the shade and glare, just when you don't want the blazing sun!
  27. 7 points
    As some of you will be aware Im the new owner of Loobie’s exclusive coupe. Really pleased I bought it. Had no intention of buying another manta, but when an opportunity arises and you have the money it has to be done! The car is great, drives so well and smooth, such a difference to the A series of mine which is pretty raw to say the least! IT just needs cosmetics to improve it further. Biggest job is a new roof. Which Mick threw in as part of the deal! It has a clip sunroof mod but deserves some attention as do the lower pillars around the screen where there is bubbling. A wing which was also grown in. rear arches need a little attention but haven’t gone, a hole in the boot floor needs patching up. Plan for paint is to do in sections when spare funds arise and doesn’t keep it off the toad for any length of time as this will be the backup car when the A series is off the road A little thing that I’m sorting, the steering wheel. Sourced a replacement irmscher centre pad, it’s jot mint but cleans up well. and I’m going to attempt to recover it, have the kit which was dirt cheap, but I think will give the wheel a new lease of life and make it that bit chunkier for my fat hands!
  28. 7 points
    Today’s big job was to get the front and rear screens fitted, in preparation i laid the rubber seals out in the sun to warm up and soften a little, Two weeks ago I contacted Auto Windscreens and they were able to supply a brand new bronze tint front screen with blue sun-strip, here the front screen is being fitted with the rubber then the string wrapped round to pull it in, Bronze tint front screen fitted, I was able to give the lad a lift in and a help when required, Original rear bronze screen all prepared ready for installation, It’s always a relief when both are in and fitted, what a difference it makes, just another step closer to the finish line, Front bronze screen details,
  29. 7 points
    More progress made this week, Front cross member, engine and box installed, started to run the wiring back in after 're taping parts and a good clean up. Painted rear axle installed, painted and installed front and rear anti roll bars, steering column fitted, I sent a load of stuff off to be sink plated, that's now back so I can begin to fit more stuff a all the bits and bolts I needed was in the zink pile 😀 Photo dump 😀 👇
  30. 7 points
    Out and about in Dorset and 900 miles covered, nearly as good as I wanted it. Rear spoiler will need repainting as corners cracking. Rear suspension looks to be about 2" too high, stereo not operational and oil pressure gauge not working. Otherwise, it starts, drives, sounds and looks very, very good. It only took 5 years and £15.000!
  31. 7 points
    Went in past the bodyshop today to have a look at the black detail that was applied this week along with all the panels fitted, Under the bonnet all painted but the box section cavity’s will be treated to some wax oil, she is now sitting better in height at the back but I still have petrol tank, glass and interior trim so she will still have to settle a little more yet, matt blank masking detail on B pillars, coupe louvres still to go on, Matt black masking detail on A pillars, front quad light and under bumper trim detail, lights to fit yet and adjust beam for MOT, Original small black rubber bump stop fitted inside petrol flap to keep fuel cap flush with rear quarter, I’m absolutely delighted with the paint finish and panel gaps, Manta GT/E decals being fitted next week, along with laser wheel alignment, wax oil all cavities, chassis rails, Sean necks, inner wings, sills etc Im getting her home next Friday/Saturday weather dependant, got to get her home dry. Boot lip spoiler has turned out really well, fits perfectly, bolt holes treated with wax oil before being fitted, again box sections inside boot lid going to be wax oiled, new rubber boot seal fitted, Side skirts and rear arches all fitted, retaining original joints between straight sections and arches,
  32. 7 points
    Well here goes. Bought this car 3 years ago on a bit of a whim. Had just built a garage and knew I wanted a retro resto project. Seen the manta on gumtree n thought, ideal always fancied a manta. Here's a photo from the ad. It's started off as a 1.8 hatch previous owner put a c20xe in it and fitted a 400 kit, home made half cage and gave it a quick spray. It had an MOT when I drove it home but the brakes didn't work luckily it was only 20miles. The engine started cutting out due to the battery not being secured and earthing out. 1st things 1st. The brakes. I got a big brake conversion and rear discs from mantasrme. Renewed all the brake lines. Renewed the seals on the cylinder reservoir which were actually causing the problem. Still not fully fitted the handbrake cable. Get that another day. The wiring was a mess from the bulkhead forward so I chopped it all and made a new loom also wiring in a heater, nodiz ecu, shift light, wiper washers, water temp sensor. Fitted R1 carbs for that retro sound. Added a choke cable onto the dash. Wired the throttle cable although in not happy with it as it only takes about an inch movement to give it full throttle. Drilled the jets to 1.8mm. Added a small expansion for the water while was at it. The exhaust was made up of a standard c20xe fwd one that had been altered to suit a manta. I got hold of an Ashley one off of eBay. Miles off fitting 1st go so this was my 1st weld project. Chopped it and extended it, hit it with some rust convertor and paint. Looks good and fits ok. Also bought a 2.5 inch kit off eBay and made my own system and also fitted an Ashley 2.5 backbox. The back end of the car had these weird round led lights I wanted rid of through time. This was promoted to needing done asap after I pulled it out the runway with no brakes and the handbrake cable snapped and it hit my other car/ wife's car...great 2 for 1. So I sourced a rear end full panel off here. Was a bit rough but with help got it welded in tidied it up now that's had a coat of primer. Ready for the next step. The latest thing is the condition of the shell. As I mentioned before it had an MOT. This and my eager urge to have a retro motor in my garage made me look at the car quickly and I never really gave it a good going over that I would now if I was in the same position...you live and learn I suppose. I made a start to the driver's floor. I should have just cut the lot out but I butt welded and patched another bit and then gave it a coat rust preventer. See attached. Yesterday I cut another bit of the footwell out and the piece of the chassis leg below that was corroded.
  33. 7 points
    Got this home today Drove it 250 miles up the road, very happy. Couple of niggles as can be expected but nothing major so far. I'll get it up on the ramp over the weekend for a proper look underneath. Renewed my lapsed membership too. It's great to be back!
  34. 7 points
    Hi All, Its been a hectic weekend with one thing and another. It was my Birthday yesterday and also my Nephews 18th Birthday celebration meal (his actual Birthday is tomorrow), so we have had meals out and all of the associated running around etc... Anyway... I have managed to spend some time on the Cav, so this is what we have got done this weekend: Headlights back in and wired up and indicator lenses cleaned. Then the Vauxhall badge was refitted: Front bumper supports fitted and of course the chrome bumper itself: Then the rubber bumper section was added: Next the trim strip that sits between the headlights and the bumper was added: Then I remembered that I still hadn't paint the front two part spoiler, so the first two coats of paint have been added to that (one or two more to go): The NS door shut area was then painted up and the check strap fitted along with the door card etc: Then the door top trim pieces were fitted that retain the outer rain rubbers. These both still need a really good clean by the way): Two of the rear boot badges were added - a bit random buy I really just wanted to see what they looked like lol: Next I faced a challenge... You might remember me saying that the two Manta doors that I had fitted had the trim retaining 'pins' located lower than the Can door ones. Well before painting this meant that I had to cut them all off, but now I had the side trim strips to fit - but how? In true bodger style I came up with an idea - these photos explain how I did it better than any words: It turns out that this trim strip is going to nicely cover what is probably the worst drip on the car - what luck! And the result of this technique on both sides of the car: The last job today was to fit the two 'hockey sticks' to the front valance (using the same technique as I used on the doors): Naturally there is still tons to do, but we are making some progress. Tomorrow of Tuesday I hope to be able to refit the front spoiler which will mean that the front will then be finished. I'm going back to work tomorrow for a rest lol Have a good evening everyone.
  35. 7 points
    Ok so on to finishing the lower rear 1/4, had to make in 3 sections. Firstly i made the top (in the picture) section, will of course be the bottom when the car is up the right way! Once this is the correct shape and welded in place, it will help making the other sections as this runs the full length. I made the front section first, this is a little easier as the section just has a slight curve The rear section is harder because it curves both ways, i also managed to get a return on it where it fits inside next to the rear panel Next i'll be tackling the cill section, floor and the reinforcement section behind the rear of the cill which also attaches to the b pillar. Its always best where you can to drill out the spot welds, makes it easier in the long run and doesn't cause so much damage to the adjoining panels. As the cill had been patched before and looked pretty rough all over i will replace the whole length, this way i can also treat the inner cill. As you can see there is quite a bit of rust (no change there!) so first i will tackle the section behind the front seat belt mount I started to cut back the reinforcer panel and b post section to get to clean metal, piece that attaches to the back of the cill by the jacking point, i was hoping to save some of this but it had gone worst than i thought so out it came. I also at this point removed the section of the inner arch which had the rear seat belt bracket attached. Now all the rot is out of this section i will make up new sections to fit. The outer 1/4 panel above i will deal with once the cill is all lined up and ready to go in.
  36. 7 points
    Hi all don’t think done up date on my manta A 1.9 auto it back on the road after 10 of storage had tuned up by guy near me who’s a mechanic with krypton tuner ,so now the timing is correct it does not cut out when you brake and the put your foot down to pull out of a very busy junction (I live in village near where the new Hinckley point power station is under construction)loads of lorries and coaches so this could have been the end of the Manta and me hair raising and being an auto no chance of bump starting a case of coasting into the nearest turning . Ps a few photos now it’s had a good clean up a 4 new tyres regards sie willetts
  37. 7 points
    Thanks for the comments. This is the outer chassisrail, the further pics will explain the rest. Think it comes in two halves so the width is suitable to cover the original outer rail. Some don't have the skills to do the whole work and I can understand that. I am also more a mecanic than a welder. Took me ages to take that torch again. Maybe Herr Eckhard can answer your question? Some more pics: Fitting the reinforced inner rail, must be accurate there the bolt of the suspension is located: Welding the outer half, there are a lot of holes in the outer rail so spotwelding is easy: Reinforcing the inner rail where the vertical bolt of the front axle fits. Fitting the top inner rail: Everything welded, the silver look is cause I paint-spray everything (before welding) with inox-paint. It conducs electricity very well and is special for mig-welding so the overlay is protected against rust: Between the two inner rails some more reinforcing: Same on the inside of the other half: Ready to treat the seems with kit, as you can see the two halves are welded together wile I used a home-made spanner to keep the rail on its position. I had to cut some metal to keep the original width of the outer rail: @Evo: In the corner you can see the triangle hole, that needs some fixing as the little round hole above it. One detail: drilled one more hole to make the original fixation free of the earth cable.
  38. 7 points
    Spent today on fluids, filled brake fluid resivoir and bled brake system starting at the back brakes and working forward, then put new genuine Vauxhall oil into the gearbox and the rear diff, I was going to tackle the build up in my garage but speaking to these lads they lent me the use of their garage and ramps for the weekend, it really did make the assembly of the Manta easier having the right tools and equipment, Finally before I finished for the day I let her down on her wheels then went through all the front subframe bolts and tightened them up, after letting the new rubber bushes settle, she is sitting high at the back at the moment but I’ll see if it’s going to drop slightly once I get her fully assembled with Petrol tank, bumpers, boot, glass etc,
  39. 7 points
    Some pics: Nice looking i200: Those two look like sleepers: Nice interieur: I am not a fan of the heavy 6 cilinder in a Manta, but this engine with the light aluminium head can have my blessing, also cause of the nice sound of the engine: And those 2 Blitz trucks look great: Closer look and the left one was a kitchen with under the bonnet a BBQ! No kangeroo, only muscles: This pic shows my "400", with the first time of his life my son behind the wheel of "our" "400". Something "Father/Son" thing and he was so proud! He also said that car's clutch is like a truck, no power steering and an engine that is not easy to handle. And I was not the only one with a "400": Great looking car, love it!
  40. 7 points
    Only 7 days between the 2 pictures that was a real hard push for the VBOA weekend
  41. 7 points
  42. 6 points
  43. 6 points
    The rear axle; I have those spring seats to cover the old ones but I noticed they are as thick as the original ones. Thought if I cover the original spring seats water and debris will stay in the space between them and rust gets a free game. So I did this: Grinded the rotten metal away and fixed the new one as a template: Cutted with the grinder the new one a lot larger so it just fitted into the original one and gave it some spot wells: After that I welded the other side, not gonna win a price for beatifull welding but it is good for more years: Need to drill the water outlet hole and some fresh paint...
  44. 6 points
    Ok so haven't updated this for a couple of months, i have been busy on the o/s. Pretty much the same needed doing as the n/s more or less- This side had an outer over cill fitted, great for an mot pass but bad for corrosion later on as where the cill was welded on, especially the floor it had caused more corrosion. The chassis leg had gone a bit crusty aswell Firstly i removed the jacking point and floor section a long with the outer skin of the chassis rail The plan was to make all good in front of the middle cross member, this will stop any chance of things moving if i was to chop out the floor further back. The inner strengthening section of the leg was in great shape which surprised me, i gave it a good check around and coated it in Hydrate 80 before welding the outer section on i had made. I then replaced the floor section a long with a new jacking point The section in front of the jacking point like the other side is tricky to get right, but came out a treat. The section in front of the A pillar wasn't as bad as the other side but still needed a small amount of repair as did the inner arch by where the accelarator pedal attaches. I managed to remove the small angled bracket you can see above and reuse One small plate was needed on the A pillar also. Onto the rear floor/inner cill section next!
  45. 6 points
    OK people. I have just finished spraying the second coat with a higher air pressure (approx 50 psi) and I am much happier with things now. It will still need another/final coat in my opinion are there are at least two places that have run and I want to make sure that there is plenty of paint to work with once I start flatting back. As (hopefully) you can see, there is already a pretty good depth pf shine to it. That little lot can dry off now for the next 24 hours or so, then I will apply the final coat tomorrow evening. Perhaps it is now time to reveal the paint I chose? I have used this paint twice before on cars and found it to be good for home spraying (in terms of H&S) and it can also be brush applied for those difficult areas. I have used coach enamel paint in Gloss White. I did some colour match tests a coupe of weeks ago and it was so close to Polar White it was incredible, so I pressed ahead. As I have said before, the purists may be horrified - but hey its my car and my choice
  46. 6 points
    Managed to spend a bit of time in the garage this week, as mentioned above i will concentrate on the rear inner section of the cill, their are 3 parts to this. I had to repair the lower inner arch section where the seatbelt anchor sits first and the floor Once i was happy with that i moved on to the piece that attaches to the cill and also the rear jacking point, this had to be made from thicker metal as it could be supporting the car. I just had to cut out another section of rust first Then plate it up That piece fitted in a treat, so next was making the section that is part of the inner 1/4 panel and also the cill attaches to it as well. Once that was welded in i then repaired the section which attaches to it which is the base of the b post. Bit fiddly this section but best to take your time and also check the cill fits and lines up where it should. I then moved along the cill/ floor and had to fabricate a couple more plates before i got to the jacking point! Once i finish a section i like to coat it in Hydrate 80 for protection. Onto the jacking point To be honest the jacking point and floor around it had rotted but the chassis is very good, there was a small piece of corrosion on the outer skin that i removed and treated the inner but that was just a bit of surface rust. I have closely checked over the rest of the chassis leg and to my amazement its perfect with no signs of any rust issues any where, kinda feels like i'm cheating if i don't replace it!
  47. 6 points
    And the colour is on...L224 - Signal Blue. Turned out quite nice to be honest...now the hard work of getting everything assembled begins! At the moment the guys are busy doing a flat and polish on the entire car to do the finishing on it. I'm quite happy with the way the colour came out. It's something a bit different, which I like
  48. 6 points
    Thanks for the comments guys. Evo well spotted with the yellow roof skin. Makes life a bit easier Ian with a slightly larger garage, harest part is trying to keep it clear. So as the car had a rusty sunroof and i don't want one anyway i cut off the roof skin and fitted a non sunroof skin, i had an old roof (thanks Paul b) lying around so went about cutting the skin off, the complete rear of the skin had rust so i cut off the hole rear flange which would spot weld across the back under the rear screen. Bit of a gamble as repairing and welding this part could cause the roof to distort. So cut it off, as there was no cross support i welded a steel box section between the door aperatures just in case there was any movement, treated all areas to a good coat of Hydrate 80 Then went about measuring and double checking every section before i layed the new roof skin on ready for welding. Roof fitted a treat, you can see the weld line to the rear, took a time over this and worth the effort as roof is smooth with no distortion. Next was to fit the 2 cross supports, they needed a bit of fabrication but all fitted and looking good I did the roof first before it goes up onto the spit, just helps to keep the load correct on the car so no potential movement of the shell. Before i put it on the spit i have to make the rear panel good and strong, Danny it come out ok but the bottom came away from the floor as rather rusty down there, as i can't source a repair section i'll go about making my own I have a spare wheel well on order as this has gone past the point of repair. Before i cut the section out i made sure the lights and boot fit so i know its just the lower section that needs sorting. (no boot sealed fitted in this picture) Hopefully i'll get a chance to sort this in the week and get it up on the spit.
  49. 6 points
  50. 6 points
    It's now back in the workshop let the fun begin
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