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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/04/19 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Finally............my date for final spray was pushed on another week, what’s another week to wait in the grand scheme of things? But now for the final push. Monday 15th April the bodyshop starts work back on the Manta, Delivered the Manta to the paint shop first thing this morning, hopefully in a weeks time she will look completely different, doors, bonnet, boot, wings, skirts and bumpers fitted, dash and wiring loom back in, then hopefully the rest of the work will just fall into place quite quickly, don’t want to miss this summer months ahead!
  2. 9 points
    Hi Julian, cars are yet designed by computers. So if you ask a computer of HP a mathematical problem or a computer of another mark it will give you the same answer. So a lot of cars look the same. What you tolled about the Wolsey is new for me, allways nice to learn about those details. Some more about Old Opels On Tour: They make a special "Blitz-Bier" (Beer), and they use my car on their bottle together with two others😊. Must I go to the AA? Some more foto's: Is that a genuine TE2800? This is an real original TE2800! Very rare car: Grts, Herman
  3. 8 points
    Every year we participate with this meet, was a nice break between working and restoring cars, enjoy the pics: This was the first part, uploading...
  4. 7 points
    Well here goes. Bought this car 3 years ago on a bit of a whim. Had just built a garage and knew I wanted a retro resto project. Seen the manta on gumtree n thought, ideal always fancied a manta. Here's a photo from the ad. It's started off as a 1.8 hatch previous owner put a c20xe in it and fitted a 400 kit, home made half cage and gave it a quick spray. It had an MOT when I drove it home but the brakes didn't work luckily it was only 20miles. The engine started cutting out due to the battery not being secured and earthing out. 1st things 1st. The brakes. I got a big brake conversion and rear discs from mantasrme. Renewed all the brake lines. Renewed the seals on the cylinder reservoir which were actually causing the problem. Still not fully fitted the handbrake cable. Get that another day. The wiring was a mess from the bulkhead forward so I chopped it all and made a new loom also wiring in a heater, nodiz ecu, shift light, wiper washers, water temp sensor. Fitted R1 carbs for that retro sound. Added a choke cable onto the dash. Wired the throttle cable although in not happy with it as it only takes about an inch movement to give it full throttle. Drilled the jets to 1.8mm. Added a small expansion for the water while was at it. The exhaust was made up of a standard c20xe fwd one that had been altered to suit a manta. I got hold of an Ashley one off of eBay. Miles off fitting 1st go so this was my 1st weld project. Chopped it and extended it, hit it with some rust convertor and paint. Looks good and fits ok. Also bought a 2.5 inch kit off eBay and made my own system and also fitted an Ashley 2.5 backbox. The back end of the car had these weird round led lights I wanted rid of through time. This was promoted to needing done asap after I pulled it out the runway with no brakes and the handbrake cable snapped and it hit my other car/ wife's car...great 2 for 1. So I sourced a rear end full panel off here. Was a bit rough but with help got it welded in tidied it up now that's had a coat of primer. Ready for the next step. The latest thing is the condition of the shell. As I mentioned before it had an MOT. This and my eager urge to have a retro motor in my garage made me look at the car quickly and I never really gave it a good going over that I would now if I was in the same position...you live and learn I suppose. I made a start to the driver's floor. I should have just cut the lot out but I butt welded and patched another bit and then gave it a coat rust preventer. See attached. Yesterday I cut another bit of the footwell out and the piece of the chassis leg below that was corroded.
  5. 6 points
    Ok so haven't updated this for a couple of months, i have been busy on the o/s. Pretty much the same needed doing as the n/s more or less- This side had an outer over cill fitted, great for an mot pass but bad for corrosion later on as where the cill was welded on, especially the floor it had caused more corrosion. The chassis leg had gone a bit crusty aswell Firstly i removed the jacking point and floor section a long with the outer skin of the chassis rail The plan was to make all good in front of the middle cross member, this will stop any chance of things moving if i was to chop out the floor further back. The inner strengthening section of the leg was in great shape which surprised me, i gave it a good check around and coated it in Hydrate 80 before welding the outer section on i had made. I then replaced the floor section a long with a new jacking point The section in front of the jacking point like the other side is tricky to get right, but came out a treat. The section in front of the A pillar wasn't as bad as the other side but still needed a small amount of repair as did the inner arch by where the accelarator pedal attaches. I managed to remove the small angled bracket you can see above and reuse One small plate was needed on the A pillar also. Onto the rear floor/inner cill section next!
  6. 5 points
    I've owned my Baby since 1981, she was 9 at the time. Never been restored fully, had a few bits and bobs done to her. At the moment due to a forced driving ban, I have the engine out and replacing the main and big ends, also polishing the ports and re seating the valves. It's been 30 years since Billy Blydenstein breathed on it for me, so decided it needed a treat. The bearing shells where amazingly good condition so replacing was all that's needed. Here she is on show last year with her stable mate, the wife's Jag.
  7. 5 points
    True to their word, progress at last, into the spray booth for finishing coats of polar white, black trims all prepared for tomorrow, bumpers, skirts and my spoiler from Shetland all prepared for paint, bonnet and boot all seam sealed, flatted and all good to go, Doors look nice and shiny, manta shell all coated, can’t wait to see her in the flesh all panels, bumpers and skirts fitted, Front scuttle panel and wing, hopefully tomorrow the black gutter detail is applied and the trims finished off.
  8. 5 points
    Hi all, I joined the club back in November when I acquired a 1978 Manta B. The car was for sale locally here In Calgary and I just could not resist the temptation to buy it. Having worked for an Opel dealership in the UK from 1975 until 1979 (McGill Automotive, St Albans) I have had a thing for Opels ever since. Opels are pretty rare in Canada with the last of the official import cars hitting the great white North in 1975, so finding a 78 B here was an opportunity I could not pass up. The car has been off the road since 2002 and the previous owner installed a Buick V6 into it with an auto box. I plan to replace this with a CIH unit and either a Gertag or ZF 5 speed box. The odd thing is the car was originally a manual and when the previous owner fitted the auto box he left the clutch pedal in place! Today was a big day, after almost five months of waiting the car is finally in my garage, I have lots of work ahead of me and will take inspiration from the many great resto threads on this site. Here are a few random shots of the car complete with 14" Ronal wheels which I suspect came from a Rekord E Berlina
  9. 5 points
    https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1102826 Strong money at £11500 but looks nice
  10. 5 points
    A little more done today. Fitted shockers off the red hatch (that got new ones year before last) fitted anti roll bar with Powerflow link bushes. Fitted hubs with disks and then stuck some wheels on to see how it’s sits. Fine I recon.
  11. 5 points
    Today we are 29 years married, ordered a table at a local restaurant, so no updates. Not gonna push my luck...
  12. 4 points
    And coming to join my Exclusive coupe soon
  13. 4 points
    This narrow body is looking neat, never thought id say this but prefer it over a kitted version, simplicity and a nice touch with 8 inch wheels. Always thought standard wheels on any model of manta are too narrow. Nice!
  14. 4 points
    After cleaning the BBQ down before the relatives arrive, I managed to sneak in another 45 minutes on the Cav - its amazing how quickly you can revive a BBQ thats been under cover for over 6 months when you try - and its all in a good cause of course. I'm feeling more positive about this panel now. Here it is after a lot of sanding then then application of a little skim of filler in the low areas: Enjoy your afternoon everyone - I'm now looking forward to an afternoon lounging in the garden with a fruit cider or two to keep me company. As you can determine, I'm not much of a drinker, but I know what I like, and thats really all that counts.
  15. 4 points
    Its a restoration no matter how you look at it, it will need a really good clean up and if you are lucky you might get away with not painting it but it will still need a good clean and mop and plenty of other re-commissioning, engine, brakes and any rubber parts will need lots of attention. I would not trust the brakes until I had completely rebuilt all of it from the master cyl to the pads and calipers. The petrol tank is the Achilles heel here, its done nearly 100k, so its been used in the wet and will have mud and muck all round the tank, the little breather pipes will have been eaten away and when you remove the tank to sort out the leaks you will be into a lot of work to sort it out, that's before you get to look inside the tank. Its a 6k car if it was done and on the road in my opinion but I am happy to be surprised, we all want values to go up and they are getting rarer.
  16. 4 points
    Thanks, going to show the last pics, The seat is out so it is easyer to work in the car: The key didn't turn nice in the lock, so I took it out: Noticed there was a lot of dirt from old oil etc. between the small blades: Before you do this make sure you don't mix the blades, otherwise your key won't fit anymore: And the last project is the repair of the start-engine. The fork was worn, you all can see those two "fingers" that move the bendix are halfway disapeared. But those parts are still available at our local car electrcity shop. Wasn't in stock but had to order it. That starter is from 1972! So don't throw it in the binn, repairable! The car is at this moment back to his owner, the spring is opening the season for nice trips with it.
  17. 4 points
    Thanks for the kind words Ian. Ok so onto the rear of the o/s, this is what i started with- All the inner sections behind the outer cill are badly rusted as well, also as you can see the rear seat belt mount area is badly rusted First job is to remove all the rusted areas back to a point where it is best to fabricate new sections Firstly i made a plate to repair the seat belt point, i made this 10mm bigger so i could weld it both sides, one side it usually enough but just for piece of mind. I then reattached the threaded section. Also welded in a small piece to the inner cill corner. All most forgot to mention the floor area behind the centre cross member, didn't take a picture of it before but here is the plate i made up held in place with clamps. I left it like this over night, mainly because i ran out of time but to also help relieve some of the tension on the fabricated section, if you look at your cars or take a close look at this picture you will see the different curves and angles of this section, i wanted to make in one piece for strength, following day i welded it in and well happy with the result So back to the rear section, first i made the inner cill that attaches to the floor and jacking point, once welded in i then set about the section that continues down from the inner 1/4 panel . Click to choose files Once all in i then finished off by making up the section of the bottom of the b post, which carries down and attaches to the middle section above (section with the holes in) Treated with hydrate 80 All ready now for the new outer cill to be fitted....
  18. 3 points
    Hmm, love that pic of the scuttle panel/wing, one of those details that makes a car.
  19. 3 points
    Sent some pictures from the paint shop this morning. It's coming along nicely. The big rebuild will begin very soon 😎
  20. 3 points
    I have welded a lot of new parts in the manta the last time. There are a few small rust holes and closed some holes that need no more. so it comes close to go to the paintshop.
  21. 3 points
    Back to it again! This evening did a little more on the rear roof line. Using Jason's great tip of the string to space up the screen rubber a little I set to work. I also thought that I would try something a little silly and used a flexible school rule to allow it to bend to match the profile of the roof. It actually worked pretty well, well so far anyway... Still plenty more to do, but it is slowly coming round.
  22. 3 points
    Looking very 80's retro now what with the gold wheels. Still nice though! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Manta-GTE-11-month-MOT-great-condition-ready-to-enjoy/333187429663?hash=item4d9384b51f:g:GTQAAOSwnO5c0oMC
  23. 3 points
    Few hours in the garage last night and got my metal bending brake done. Could have done a bit better started to rush it at the end as it was getting late. But it does the job, quite happy with the end product tbh. Did a small sample of the chassis shape but can make up to about 500mn long lengths
  24. 3 points
    It’s a good job we know what you are referring to here.... 🤣
  25. 3 points
    Good news: Had just a mail from the body-workshop: The car is ready! So I've got to make sure the axle is ready to bring the car to my home.
  26. 3 points
    After work done some cleaning and painting: Think this part is made in 1987! And I thought only to fix that chassis rail: Front axle is almost ready, "Danke Thomas fur die schöne schrauben" And because with the refitting of the axle the dust-plates of the brakes are easy bended, the discs and calipers together with the hubs make it heavier, so I made a high-tec solution to protect the shaft: "The Paris Hilton version is also available with a gold split-pen..."
  27. 3 points
    Ian, put a bit of string under the window rubber to raise it, that will help you get a better finish under the rubber. Also (bit late now) but mask the rubber to stop it getting damaged with the sand paper. Got to take my hat off to you, going back over your repairs to make better as you have learnt so much since you started this build, many others wouldn't have the patience and just put up with the finish.
  28. 3 points
    A bit more done on the rear roof line this evening. This is where we are now, its starting to come round: Have a nice evening everyone
  29. 3 points
    Done some work on the front axle, and the last 2 bushes are pressed in the lower arms. Next thing to do is cleaning the springs but there is something strange with them: One has got a white mark so it is a 20S/1.9S spring. The other one has got a partnumber and is a 2.0E spring with airconditioning? Noticed this cause they are different in hight. And than the news came in the engineblock is ready! So the engine is hanging ready to complete but first I will complete the front axle so I can get the car from the bodyworker. Boring to the next size, honing, plane the surface of the block and drilling an extra hole was 300€! Think this is cheap...
  30. 3 points
    Some minor pottering around this evening. 1) The trim mounting pin on the front wing that is used to hang the chrome sill moulding was damaged, so I gut that off and will use the same screw mounting tecnique that I used on the door strips later. In the mean time I had to fill over the hole left by removal. 2) Next I noticed that the rear area of the sill on the NS didn't line up with the newly shaped bottom of the rear quarter well enough. This will be covered by the sill chrome trim, but I still wanted it to be flush. Some filler was added and I used my new secret weapon as a filler shaping 'blade' - a Wilkinson window cleaning 'thing' This seemed to work pretty well and it is certainly much straighter from the off than I would normally achieve. Plenty more work to do here, but a flying start all the same. 3) Lastly I sanded the rear roof line and applied some more filler to the low spots. Cheers all.
  31. 3 points
    A small amount done today. Repainted the brake bias and fitted it, along with some new brake pipes. Only mock fitted a master cylinder so I could make the pipes up. Also fitted another heater box as the old one was cracked.
  32. 3 points
    OK so shell is now completely solid, fitted new o/s cill and finshed off the rear inner arch and front lower a pillar I had a couple of small repairs to do on the top of the front panel above the lights, strangely both side had gone in the exact same place, anyway cut out treated with hydrate 80 and new pieces welded into place I took both the doors and boot lid to my blasters on Friday as i want them to just blast the insides around the frame, this way i can see more easily what needs sorting. I know both doors will need some repair to the bottoms but hopefully only a small patch to the inner boot lid. Next job while i wait for those to be returned is to start trying to fit up the Volvo 240 rear axle, not sure yet how far away the mounting points will be but its a good 5 link set up including panard bar and comes 5 stud with disc's as standard. One thing i will have to over come is the fact the spring and shock are the different way around to the Manta set up, could always go coilover i guess!
  33. 3 points
    A little bit of work this morning before we head out for the day. I managed to get the boot lid finish sanded, a splash of primer over the bare metal and bolted back on the car. Its a bit tricky to really see from the photo as its not latched down, but it is way straighter than before and when I push down on the front edge things look much better when I check it to the other reference points back there. Have a nice day everyone.
  34. 3 points
    It's a realistic price to ask but will it achieve that price ? Yours Julian is i believe unrestored & largely original so is more desirable. The thing that would concern me about that car for sale is that it was re-sprayed a few years ago & has some rust appearing on one wing, i would want to know what prep/resto was done before the re-spray. Also why don't people present their car better when selling e.g. spray the airfilter box & clean the engine bay.
  35. 3 points
    I can do the same, when my son is behind the wheel 😁: I had several Manta's with the ariel on that spot
  36. 3 points
    Try this link, i bought one last year and fits the pins spot on. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-4-Piece-Car-Door-Hinge-Pin-Extractor-Removal-Tool-Extractor-Set-VS801/311596359195?epid=11017008001&hash=item488c971e1b:g:bmQAAOSw9OFZKDPd&frcectupt=true
  37. 3 points
    If they took a bit of time to clean it up, get it MOT’d they’d probably see close to 6k. It would be great to see how little rust it’s got (if that’s even possible)
  38. 3 points
    I have a lot of work with my own cars but sometimes they are less important cause I want to help a friend. The Manta-A had a red warning light (oil pressure) but the driver kept on driving so I had a panic-call for help. This was some time back and I took pics for the valuation report. Engine and gearbox out, This looks bad, the 1.9s engine is dead. Somebody putted a 1.9N carb on it and the car looks pretty good so I have a 2.0E engine that was originally of the GSI. Cause the engine is too heavy to get it out of my garage I carried it in parts out. Think a lot of us have that corner in our yard with stuff that is waiting to get out. Want to be sure the engine haves a good oil pressure... New seals and gaskets, The dis-house is original an Injection one, so drilled a hole for the fuel-pump Sump ready to install New bearing at the back And some fresh paint, looks always nice.
  39. 3 points
    A small update tonight, but it is one that has given me back my positive attitude again. The OSR quarter behind the wheel was 'lumpy' and after taking a closer look I think that the metal might have distorted during the weld repairs in that area. Yesterday I knocked down the humps with a panel beating hammer and put a skim of filler over the now slightly indented metal. Some sanding in that area tonight has left me feel much happier with the whole area. This is it after the sanding and the application of some stopper filler in a few areas: Then I moved around the corner to sand back the filler that I had applied to that side of the lower rear panel in an attempt to tidy up some imperfections. Again some small amounts of stopper have been applied here and left to dry. This area is also looking much tidier already: Have a nice evening everyone.
  40. 3 points
    Engine in the car, new exhaust gasket and some more pics: The new VIN-plate on it's place engraved : Next thing to do: The steering column: Don't hit the centre of the steering column with a hammer to loosen the steering wheel! If you do this you can have this problem: the new bearing is the one with the bronce outside, the original one is in pieces... Another look at the steering column:
  41. 3 points
    I used the original head again, the car runs on LPG but the valves looked ok, just cleaning and grinding Some saw it, the original 1.9S engine is the old type, with the flat oil pump plate. So the valve stems have no seals. Checked the valve guides and stems and they were in tolorance. Cause the owner complained the engine had some oil consumption I milled the outside of the stem-guides so seals would fit: Next thing is putting a tube in the head where the oil goes back in the engine, so the oil-level will be higher and the camshaft is better lubricated:
  42. 3 points
    Took a while but the car is on its spit and it's a lot more comfortable to work on. Sill cleaned up and cut out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/j96EbGthtbWBfQgY6 Only needed a small patch added to the bottom of the lip where it connects to the outer sill. Flux core makes everything look dirty/rusty but cleans up again ok. Rust converter and weld thru primer and then fit the outer sill. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyHQuHVNRxMntK1t9 This took me ages. I must have taken it on and off 20 times and couldn't decide where to cut. In the end I repaired the bottom of the B post where it returns into the door opening remaining the original flange and then cut the new sill short of the door opening because the repair panel had a different radius to the door opening. I hope that makes sense.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/7hiCRaHLRERxKHhj8 this one probably explains it better. I really took my time and welded in little spots at a time. There was no distortion at all, until I ground it back. Lesson learnt, grinding causes heat too! Still not too bad and might be able to tap it out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gFKJxavYnF77nsuF9 I cleaned up the wheel well and the arch is really good. This car has been soaked in waxoyl or similar in the past. The only corrosion was to the seat belt mount so I cut it out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sRca4XySPH79cDd1A And made a new plate with a flange so it sits flush on the inside of the car. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GPuxUhEKArfGFcgUA Spot the deliberate mistake? https://photos.app.goo.gl/4CNKjq2ckwa3QTZk7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/CwAAecFJaZwGPcLt9 This is the only picture I can find with the mount in place. Spot welded first, then seam welded around the outside for strength. You'll see I was a bit out with some of my spot-weld holes on the sill so I need to drill more and weld these up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GtvH9BpCaAduBArP6 Powerfile is my new favourite tool. A couple of the wheel arch once cleaned up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AkRR26yCHRq8ztMr7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Aagzu5FLVB9Ukpuq6 And the one small repair required at the back. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xX7YnjhTdDgTp43BA And after repair https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oemCUZiRatmHGFn8 Inspired by the condition of the wheel arch I washed down the rest of the underside with white spirit and I'm chuffed that the waxoyl has done its job. There are a load of photos of the underside in the link below. Once the waxoyl was off the original paint was exposed. There are a few little spots to sort out but I'm happy there's not a huge amount to do here. Makes up for the mess I found under the vinyl roof. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tDoh5Hf3HEjDHMaj6 On to the other side soon.
  43. 3 points
    Some work has done at the workshop, must take some pics of it. At home I cleaned up the front axle, degreasing and used rust converter before painting with hammerite: Some nice things arrived from Germany, thanks @ Thomas from Edelschmiede: First I wanted to clean up the bolts and let them passivate them, but later I noticed the whole set was cheaper to buy then passivate the old stuff and transport it to the firm, buy new self-locking nuts and so on... Sometimes the easy way is cheaper. Noticed this on the upper wishbones, never too old to learn: Usually I check the rubber bushes to check what side the wishbone fits, but with cleaning I saw R and L. Wanted to share this. Grts, Herman
  44. 2 points
    Bit more done today. I managed to get the passenger side chassis rails in, driver side swan neck cover in and made a fabricated a couple of section from top of swan neck to forward section of chassis leg. Drivers side inner is also now installed. Still some flatting and tidying up to do but it's taking shape
  45. 2 points
    Up on Ebay now with different/additional photos & a comprehensive write up. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1978-Opel-Manta-2-0-SR-Berlinetta-auto-one-owner-on-V5-70k-with-full-s-history/273847592760?hash=item3fc296a738:g:KIYAAOSwMY5c3FmO&frcectupt=true
  46. 2 points
    Passenger side inner made and fitted, jig fits.😀 I'm going to cut out and replace the inner further back to jacking point. I'll then move on to drivers side. And do the same, then a good clean up, rust treatment, zinc rich primer, paint and trim before final weld and outer skins go on.
  47. 2 points
    I got into camper vans too many years ago. And still have her to this day, But a few years ago got the Manta itch again bought a really nice B then a Berlinetta hatch. But last year was able to secure my old Exclusive coupe back that i originally bought 20 years ago and like you say its like being back in an old friend. Welcome back.
  48. 2 points
    Fair bit of body work. I've already replaced the front valence, springs and dampers, but the rear arches and a few bits of rust showing through the paint hint at more work. it's been relatively well looked after in the past and flies through the MoT. Past welding underneath is functional rather than pretty but that's a whole lot of tea to drink before I tackle that
  49. 2 points
    I know how you feel. Good to know mantas rust in canada too, out of interest, do they use rock salt on winter roads in canada? Are you a purest or a modernist?
  50. 2 points
    hi Ian have to agree with Herman don't try to be a perfectionist I know this all too well myself.to me from what you started with to what you have now looks stunning.
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