Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 14/04/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Thanks for the kind words Ian. Ok so onto the rear of the o/s, this is what i started with- All the inner sections behind the outer cill are badly rusted as well, also as you can see the rear seat belt mount area is badly rusted First job is to remove all the rusted areas back to a point where it is best to fabricate new sections Firstly i made a plate to repair the seat belt point, i made this 10mm bigger so i could weld it both sides, one side it usually enough but just for piece of mind. I then reattached the threaded section. Also welded in a small piece to the inner cill corner. All most forgot to mention the floor area behind the centre cross member, didn't take a picture of it before but here is the plate i made up held in place with clamps. I left it like this over night, mainly because i ran out of time but to also help relieve some of the tension on the fabricated section, if you look at your cars or take a close look at this picture you will see the different curves and angles of this section, i wanted to make in one piece for strength, following day i welded it in and well happy with the result So back to the rear section, first i made the inner cill that attaches to the floor and jacking point, once welded in i then set about the section that continues down from the inner 1/4 panel . Click to choose files Once all in i then finished off by making up the section of the bottom of the b post, which carries down and attaches to the middle section above (section with the holes in) Treated with hydrate 80 All ready now for the new outer cill to be fitted....
  2. 4 points
    Ok so haven't updated this for a couple of months, i have been busy on the o/s. Pretty much the same needed doing as the n/s more or less- This side had an outer over cill fitted, great for an mot pass but bad for corrosion later on as where the cill was welded on, especially the floor it had caused more corrosion. The chassis leg had gone a bit crusty aswell Firstly i removed the jacking point and floor section a long with the outer skin of the chassis rail The plan was to make all good in front of the middle cross member, this will stop any chance of things moving if i was to chop out the floor further back. The inner strengthening section of the leg was in great shape which surprised me, i gave it a good check around and coated it in Hydrate 80 before welding the outer section on i had made. I then replaced the floor section a long with a new jacking point The section in front of the jacking point like the other side is tricky to get right, but came out a treat. The section in front of the A pillar wasn't as bad as the other side but still needed a small amount of repair as did the inner arch by where the accelarator pedal attaches. I managed to remove the small angled bracket you can see above and reuse One small plate was needed on the A pillar also. Onto the rear floor/inner cill section next!
  3. 3 points
    I have a lot of work with my own cars but sometimes they are less important cause I want to help a friend. The Manta-A had a red warning light (oil pressure) but the driver kept on driving so I had a panic-call for help. This was some time back and I took pics for the valuation report. Engine and gearbox out, This looks bad, the 1.9s engine is dead. Somebody putted a 1.9N carb on it and the car looks pretty good so I have a 2.0E engine that was originally of the GSI. Cause the engine is too heavy to get it out of my garage I carried it in parts out. Think a lot of us have that corner in our yard with stuff that is waiting to get out. Want to be sure the engine haves a good oil pressure... New seals and gaskets, The dis-house is original an Injection one, so drilled a hole for the fuel-pump Sump ready to install New bearing at the back And some fresh paint, looks always nice.
  4. 3 points
    Took a while but the car is on its spit and it's a lot more comfortable to work on. Sill cleaned up and cut out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/j96EbGthtbWBfQgY6 Only needed a small patch added to the bottom of the lip where it connects to the outer sill. Flux core makes everything look dirty/rusty but cleans up again ok. Rust converter and weld thru primer and then fit the outer sill. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyHQuHVNRxMntK1t9 This took me ages. I must have taken it on and off 20 times and couldn't decide where to cut. In the end I repaired the bottom of the B post where it returns into the door opening remaining the original flange and then cut the new sill short of the door opening because the repair panel had a different radius to the door opening. I hope that makes sense.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/7hiCRaHLRERxKHhj8 this one probably explains it better. I really took my time and welded in little spots at a time. There was no distortion at all, until I ground it back. Lesson learnt, grinding causes heat too! Still not too bad and might be able to tap it out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gFKJxavYnF77nsuF9 I cleaned up the wheel well and the arch is really good. This car has been soaked in waxoyl or similar in the past. The only corrosion was to the seat belt mount so I cut it out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sRca4XySPH79cDd1A And made a new plate with a flange so it sits flush on the inside of the car. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GPuxUhEKArfGFcgUA Spot the deliberate mistake? https://photos.app.goo.gl/4CNKjq2ckwa3QTZk7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/CwAAecFJaZwGPcLt9 This is the only picture I can find with the mount in place. Spot welded first, then seam welded around the outside for strength. You'll see I was a bit out with some of my spot-weld holes on the sill so I need to drill more and weld these up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GtvH9BpCaAduBArP6 Powerfile is my new favourite tool. A couple of the wheel arch once cleaned up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AkRR26yCHRq8ztMr7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Aagzu5FLVB9Ukpuq6 And the one small repair required at the back. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xX7YnjhTdDgTp43BA And after repair https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oemCUZiRatmHGFn8 Inspired by the condition of the wheel arch I washed down the rest of the underside with white spirit and I'm chuffed that the waxoyl has done its job. There are a load of photos of the underside in the link below. Once the waxoyl was off the original paint was exposed. There are a few little spots to sort out but I'm happy there's not a huge amount to do here. Makes up for the mess I found under the vinyl roof. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tDoh5Hf3HEjDHMaj6 On to the other side soon.
  5. 3 points
    Finally............my date for final spray was pushed on another week, what’s another week to wait in the grand scheme of things? But now for the final push. Monday 15th April the bodyshop starts work back on the Manta, Delivered the Manta to the paint shop first thing this morning, hopefully in a weeks time she will look completely different, doors, bonnet, boot, wings, skirts and bumpers fitted, dash and wiring loom back in, then hopefully the rest of the work will just fall into place quite quickly, don’t want to miss this summer months ahead!
  6. 2 points
    Hi Ian, as you all know I own an original Manta-400. The car is something special, I pamper it. Give it the best oil an owner can. Do the maintenance on it, as only one can do. But that car is not perfect. The oil seal behind the rear of the engine needs repair,noticed those rubber things at the end of your steering arms need replacement. Gonna do it, but I also drive with that car to Switserland, Germany, Holland, Denmark, and so on. Some say I am nuts, such a car but I enjoy it. I drive it. This is what a car is made to do. So if you find those minor points of imperfection repair it when you have time, but don't forget to drive that car.
  7. 2 points
    I used the original head again, the car runs on LPG but the valves looked ok, just cleaning and grinding Some saw it, the original 1.9S engine is the old type, with the flat oil pump plate. So the valve stems have no seals. Checked the valve guides and stems and they were in tolorance. Cause the owner complained the engine had some oil consumption I milled the outside of the stem-guides so seals would fit: Next thing is putting a tube in the head where the oil goes back in the engine, so the oil-level will be higher and the camshaft is better lubricated:
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Hi Ian, thanks for the kind words. Yes if you are a car mecanical you have a lot of friends! So we will complete this story: Naked VIN-plate, was missing on this car so I ordered it at "Splendid-parts" in Germany: The gearbox: I wanted to put a 5-gear getrag in the car but my friend wanted the car original. No problemo, so new gaskets and some springs, the gear shifter works like new again: New gaskets for the engine, original Opel. They are getting rare: Cleaning the screw-threads: And making a new gear-box silentblock. Don't say this further; this silent block is from a Leopard Heavy Fighting Tank...
  10. 1 point
    What a good friend to have you are Herman, I bet your mate will be eternally grateful.
  11. 1 point
    Totally understand your point of view, dont worry your not alone. Example, there is a certain car doing the rounds in car shows for years, it has (won) at least 50 trophys etc, car of the show blah, blah, now i was explaining to one of my mates earlier in the day, all cars have flaws, look long and hard enough, they are there! Now, this concours car, i pointed out at least 10 defects in 2 mins. The owner asked what we where doing, I explained, he agreed, weirdly! Btw, it wasnt a opel. Whats my point, buy a unrestored rot box, plant it in your garden, grow plants in it, this is what a true car of this age should be! A rot box.When your are happy, get on with it, use it, get out and use it, then and only then it all makes sense. Ive just scored a 14yr mot pass, no failures! Happy motoring, ps. Dont worry about being bored, classics always need a little attention, fettling, cleaning, or you could offer your services maybe helping others out and getting a few quid for your next project.You could always buy body panels that need attention, tidy em up and sell them on, or offers shell welding services, not everyone has the skill. You have even give me the confidence to tackle the paint on my next project, i dont care, if its wrong its wrong, try again, i will get it right sometime, its only prep and paint. Cant justify paying x amount to some monkey,
  12. 1 point
    Just noticed this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Ascona-400R/293045049981?hash=item443ad89a7d:g:Js0AAOSw59Jcr7ei
  13. 1 point
    I would absolutely love that...but you're right about the write up and pictures... shocking way to try and sell a £20k modified car.
×
×
  • Create New...