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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/19 in all areas

  1. Hi all , im new to this site, thought ide join to help get some info and possible help with a new project that i recently purchased, for many many years ive had fords and still own a ford capri s but ive allways loved the A series opel manta and managed to get hold of a 1973 manta 1900 sr a couple of weeks ago, its a little worse for wear ie front floors and chassis legs are in a poor state but its only metal and she;s definatly worth saving, not only is it complete i put some fresh fuel down the carb put a new battery on it, freed up the water pump and after an hour or so of tinkering much to my amazment she fired up and sounds ok. starts stops and drives which isnt bad for a car being sat in a garage unloved for nearly 20yrs, looking forward to getting on with the restoration will keep you posted, thanks for now Nick
    6 points
  2. I bought it, got it for £1500 in the end, she is surprisingly original, its not a 5 speed as stated, got it going after a bit of work, the rust onit is only surface, in the middle of trying to get panels for it before i start stripping it, i binned those hideous wheel and put a period set on it, when i get started on her ill post some details, cheers
    6 points
  3. Jessica is only for Saturday nights 😂
    2 points
  4. Does the Cav have the loom plugging into the back of the dash? The A series does and if i ever had the dash out to do the speedo cable it would work the socket loose and i would loose some things until it was pushed back in properly, might not be related but as you had the dash out it was just a thought? Did they work before the speedo cable change? Andy
    1 point
  5. Remember reading something years ago, the earth on the rear lights affected fronts. There is also two earths up front? If they are clean, i would beg borrow or steal a light switch.
    1 point
  6. Hi Nick Welcome to the OMOC site, if you haven't already i would recommend you become a member as you will get full access to the forum.
    1 point
  7. That's brilliant Ian, because it now confirms what I have been wondering for some time, and that is the spare new GM cable that I have been hoarding for many years is a genuine part for my car, which as you know is an automatic, maybe I will never need to use it, but it's there if needs be!! Those photos will also help other auto owners. Cheers Mate.
    1 point
  8. As the bottom of the car is finished and the rear axle installed i then started on the front, again it was fully powdered coated and new or treated bolts used. New bushes and steering gaitors. The springs are 40mm lowered, i have fitted these before and have liked the stance of the car. Just a heads up on the rear axle, if you ever get one powdered coated and blasted make sure you removed the crown and pinion and ball bearing races, i removed the half shafts and axle cover then masked all open sections, the guy who blasted it then masked again just to make sure. When i got it back the the crown and pinion were very hard to turn, i washed out the axle but it just got worst and wouldn't turn, nightmare! I stripped it right down and found all the bearings full of the fine blasting material, took me half a day and 6 cans of SAS spray to clean out the bearings, all back in now and turning freely. So onto the doors, the n/s just needed a small plate and forgot to take a pic of that. O/s door was shot along the bottom, i did see a few doors for sale but all were around £100 and needed small bits of repair. So decided to fix mine, it fitted so well on the hinges and the gaps were good so worth trying to keep it. First i got hold of a donour door, only one i could get was a n/s, removed the lower frame, o/s and n/s lower inner frames are very similiar apart from the front and rear sections where they curve up around the corners With lower frame removed New lower frame istalled and outer skin cut back to solid metal, this is where the fun begins. So i had to make my own lower door skin with retun flange. Above is a piece of metal i removed from the donor door, 10mm bigger top and bottom, the 10mm at the bottom will be the returned flange and 10mm at the top will stepped as below. I then clamped the metal to an old spirit level and carefully planished the bottom lip around to make the start of the flange Once done checked the measuremants against the door and welded it in place Welding about an inch at a time to stop any heat distortion, i would also after 10 welds planish the area using hammer and dolly just to help keep the panel straight, anyway all went to plan and came out a treat. I then planished the bottom flange around the bottom of the frame and added welds about 6" apart. Then put the door back on and kept my fingers crossed🤞 Couple of raised areas to address but looks great and gaps spot on! I have a few more pic's of the door on the car but ran out of MB's space and can't seem to add any more even if i do a new reply! Anyway panels all finished now, just refitted the boot and all fit well, next job it onto fitting the bodykit. Never done one before buy quite looking forward to it! Yes i seam welded them all around and also the small cap on the top, my track manta has the same set up but the tops are connected to a cage, never had any issues with that and the project car will never get anywhere near the stress that the track one does. When you say Rods?
    1 point
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