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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/20 in all areas

  1. My original Manta heater fan motor has just packed in, so I searched on this forum about VW Polo heater fan upgrades. On Saturday I went to my local breakers yard, couldn’t find a suitable VW Polo but stumbled across a MK2 VW Golf, so I removed the fan motor and armed with screenshots of “how to” I set to work, the easy part was stripping the plastic from the VW fan motor, removing the Manta housing from the broken fan motor and installing the VW Golf fan motor in the plastic using angle brackets and jubilee clip, with help of another Manta owner and a few WhatsApp calls to keep me right I identified the wiring colours, Brown wire was negative, white wire speed 1, yellow and black wire speed2, yellow wire speed 3. next issue was grafting the old wiring loom black connector to the new fan motor, it was decided to use speed settings 2&3 and blank speed 1 off, the original connector was grafted on just behind my insulating tape numbers and the resistor zip tied in place to stop it rattling about, quick note on above picture, I had to reverse the red and brown wire spades right next to the motor to get the fan to run in the right direction, definitely needs checking before finally fitting in place ( don’t ask me how I found out 🤣) again advice was saught for old colours, Black wire was negative, grey speed setting 1, yellow speed setting 2, The original old black Plastic heater wires connector was grafted on, new VW Golf fan motor installed inside the Manta heater box, it is a tight fit in there, cover and rubbers fitted, battery connected back up and now I have a functional heater again but with a 100% improvement on power.
    7 points
  2. Had a quick play. I measured just resistance and moved the flap and had the measurments jump up and down. I did think it may be logarithmic rather than linear but that wouldn't explain the resistance droping lower than the previous measurement. With linear, if you plotted it on a graph, resistance against pot rotation position, you should get a straight diagonal line. There is more going on inside than just a carbon track and the wiper. However, it can be checked easily with voltage and the output shouldl be linear. These are my results after a quick try. I used a digital multimeter. Pin numbers taken from the AFM. Pin 5 and 8 - 362 ohms I just used a 1.5v new AAA battery. All we're looking for is a smooth consistant output. I wouldn't advise using a rechargeable battery because of the high output current if something went tits up like a short! Connect battery to: +v at pin 5 0v at pin 8 Measure the output on pin 7. With the flap closed: 1.2v (looking at hobbys photo above, the wiper doesn't go right to the end of the track, hence why it's 1.2v instead of 1.5v) Flap fully open: 0.38v Moving the flap gave a smooth changing voltage level. No guarantee mine is a good one to begin with but was working ok. Think I have a spare I could compare it to. Just to cover my arse, obviously don't do this while it's still connected to the ECU!
    3 points
  3. sorry if we misunderstand each other here. i didnt mention anything about tdc.or after tdc.i quoted the timing marks which are as you say 10deg btdc.(or 5 deg btdc on carb cars) neither of mine will run without detonation at these marks( normal unleaded)and originally needed about 5 degree of retardation .and they are totally standard engines. definately better with the vacuum can mod thou ! all engines are different and as you say he needs the most advanced as it will run on (up to std) this was just something i thought he might need to check as obviously if the timing was out there would be a loss of power.
    2 points
  4. Thanks all. It's coming along. I'm in no great rush. I don't have enough space or money for another project so might as well take my time with this. I could have done it much quicker if I'd bough swan necks and spring pans etc. and maybe paid someone to media blast the whole car but financially it just wasn't an option. I'll end up painting it myself as well, I've been told I'd be better off savings to have it done 'properly' but I'll never be able to justify it and to be honest I'm quite keen to give it a go. What's the worst that can happen? At the end of the day, it's a toy. I'll hopefully never sell it so what does it matter. If I ever do sell it, someone will get an honest shell that hasn't been messed about with too much and is 90% original. I painted the floor yesterday and cleaned the engine bay, sanded it back and soaked everything in rust converter. I'll add a couple of photos later.
    2 points
  5. just out of curiosity what have you got the ignition timing set at ? depending on what petrol you are using it should be on the timing marks at idle or 5 degree retarded. this was the official reccomendation back in the day but modern petrol and condition of engine etc will mean this is only a rough guide. my 2.2 is actually set at standard timing marks but i have an adjustable screw on the vacuum canister to limit the advance rather than retarding the whole lot.this works great for me and definately better than full vacuum advance and idle retard.each car and engine will have its own happy settings
    2 points
  6. This morning I decided to make a bit of a start on the roof. This is our starting point prior to any wet sanding - a little dusty and definitely a bit 'flat' too: Hopefully I can post some photos by the middle of the week to show you how it ended up. Have a nice day everyone.
    2 points
  7. And the car is of the spit and on its rear axle again. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hMdNYbeNgfYadMr26 The front subframe is partly back together but it's easy to work on the engine bay with that out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EncbxLESFoWe8ARb8 The next job is to get a coat of epoxy primer on the engine bay once it is all cleaned up. It currently looks like this https://photos.app.goo.gl/ALjAKbCi2mkEZ4d46 Then I'm going to work my way around the car preping and priming a panel or two at a time. That's all for now. Next update... December, like clockwork 😃. Take care all. Sorry about all the typos...it's late.
    2 points
  8. Running gear. Axle was stripped and cleaned. Driver's side spring pan was corroded around the lip where the spring sits and where the panhard rod bolts on. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xndQYJ1yCHD7PjZA As the steel is so think here I found making a repair difficult so I did it in sections first by recreating the centre using the rubber a a guide and the by taking that in place and then reinforcing the whole area. Hopefully it makes sense. It's not the prettiest but it's solid now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/W4jCf6LcGnTUx3PP9 I then removed the reinforcing plate at the back of the panhard rod bolt by drilling out the 4 spot welds, cleaned up the area. Welded in a repair section. Sprayed the reinforcement with zinc primer and replaced the spot welds. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ARQRgAUJHtPHo9h76 I used the panhard bold and another smaller bold to hold everything in the right place. The whole axle was the sprayed in zinc primer and then a couple of coats of black chassis paint. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7M7HKtrd7N2atfJD7 New seals and gaskets. Torque tube cleaned and all bolted up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHF563bmYCa6AkZDA
    2 points
  9. Yes I read it the other way, but I see what you mean now.👍
    1 point
  10. Floors. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dV9Qki9rz3ejgnHg7 I've deliberately only done the front. The back is fine and original so I'm leaving it. The front was a bit scabby and I'd replaced the floor at the front of the foot wells so that needed painting anyway. Engine bay. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KF1s5DjCVAWG3k849 Still needs work as there is glue around the bulk head which is a paint to sand off and around the lights and radiator mount need more work. That's it until next weekend so the rust converter will stop it from flashing over.
    1 point
  11. Great work! - it’s all coming to together very nicely. I agree that there was no need to replace the battery tray, you did some nice repairs there.
    1 point
  12. Nice work, recognize some work I did too. 👍
    1 point
  13. Great pictures and progress. Underside really looks solid. I agree with the Grey btw, positive from the black paint is it’s just more layers of protection 👍
    1 point
  14. Time for my 6 monthly update. Hope everyone is surviving ok. Since the last post it's been more of the same. Moving around the car, doing little jobs as time allows. So this makes more sense I'll try to group the jobs together. After priming the underside a used a time of brush on seam sealer on all the welds and panel joints. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mFEqP3M2B2D1Np8i9 I then sprayed the whole underside black. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tL76MDjNov6w1VU26 The plan is to spray the car a dark colour eventually so I though I was save with black. I then decided I didn't like the black as I there would be no contrast with the running gear which would also be black. And in also decided I wanted the final car to be starmist or similar so decided to paint it all again in dark grey. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3qp4TmzVvDU9D6m79 So when the mot tester looks under once a year he'll really appreciate that the chassis and the running gear are different colours....... You'll see in the last few pictures I noticed a few gaps that I thought I should seal up so I bought a tube of seal sealer and sealed those up and sprayed it again. So in total I thing I've about 6 coats of paint on so should be ok for a few years. https://photos.app.goo.gl/w7FJcjGAynUeX3ft8 At the same time I was stripping the GTE engine down, cleaning it, ordering gaskets and generally getting bits together. Some random photos below. I'll do a better update on the engine in due course. https://photos.app.goo.gl/iyeZZxRFtTUt3BrGA Engine bay stripped of everything except the loom which I tied up out of the way. Only rust here was under the battery. It looked a bit scabby but solid but as i cleaned it back it was very perforated and the rear clamp was almost nonexistent. I toyed with just putting a flat plate in and the building a battery tray to site the battery in as the shape here is very complicated. Anyway in the end I made up some patches and it looks ok. It will need a skim of something to smarten it up as there a bit of distortion but once the battery is in it will look ok. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oxcSGzbEHJZQPSz6 I've also been progressing the roof which needed the leading edge replaced. This is looking ok as well. https://photos.app.goo.gl/y9BrNzXBKgsQWg1bA
    1 point
  15. They are almost impossible to test at home as you can check the wiper but not the combination of spring pressure v position of the wiper. The only way to do it at home is to check the wiper electrically then using a wide band lambda and check the fueling across the rev range. If it is out you can adjust the spring tension under the cover. If you still can't get it right it's time for a refurb, assuming everything else is ok. There just isn't any reliable way to test these with just a multimeter.
    1 point
  16. Thank you for all help and welcomes! I'll have a test made with 529 flame red. Now I have to decide wether to put on a spoiler or not up front. Guess I'll make a project thread now 😀 Again, Thank you all 🙂
    1 point
  17. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Manta-i200-i240-i300-Or-i400-Rear-3-Piece-Spoiler-/124197754813?nma=true&si=xUaZ39vpDkDV234vNfknsPTbyRk%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Missed out on a 400 Spoiler a couple of years ago which sold for around £80. The seller was not aware it was a special 400 version. I only noticed after it sold!!!
    1 point
  18. Good, I think 15s look poxy on the Manta, need to be more aggressive 😁 if your not going gravel racing, no need to have the larger profile boots.
    1 point
  19. The bumper going on is a great start to my Friday! they look like they have been in a crash without it.
    1 point
  20. Whilst on lockdown I managed to find a photo we’re my car was sold from sadly the dealership is long gone but I’ll make a road trip there in the future SMT Carlisle
    1 point
  21. Its steve Thompson built from a brand new car. It was built for Steve's brother at their dealership First wash in who know how many years. It really has survived lots better than I could have expected. Pushed over the pit for a little look, let the saga begin 🙂
    1 point
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