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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/08/20 in all areas

  1. Got very silly money for the red coupe ( should never have sold it ,have many times as that been said) Never had a hatch so l thought get one and see, was not for me ,it was a 100% solid manta
    1 point
  2. Really nice in that colour, nice with probably not much to do so well worth the money imho.
    1 point
  3. Sent by a friend this morning, I don’t do Facebook so can’t add any more info.
    1 point
  4. Just secured the top and when you need to get to the lights fold up over the back panel
    1 point
  5. Hi Ian I would lose the holes under the liner just going to mean a lot more work and more change of errors (k.i.s.s.) besides think it will look neater only prob I could see with this is change of puncturing or tearing
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  6. Just had a look at the add on facebook it looks a nice example, very original apart from probably had a respray as back panel should be black. Swan neck has a previously welded patch but pics from underside indicate its solid. I reckon it was put away 27 years ago in V good condition & has been stored in a dry garage. will need a recommission, new MOT & new airfilter box. Interior looks in good nick Best colour imo Sapphire Blue. I think £2500 is a fair price considering it could be worth up to £5000 once cleaned & recommissioned. Located at Winchcombe Gloucestershire right by the Steam Railway. https://www.gwsr.com/
    1 point
  7. It looks surprisingly good
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  8. Same principle compress with normal compressor then fit cut down set take the slack then remove long set Whatever way you do it just be safe and sure there's a massive amount of stored energy once compressed.
    1 point
  9. This morning I did some prep work for the mini boot space lining project. First job was to remove the two centre bumper mount bolts and their large washers, then both rear light clusters, the boot lid latch and then peel back the boot seal as far as necessary: As I have decided to go with a Black stretch carpet liner, I wanted the bolt heads to be colour coordinated too. So a dash of paint was applied to all of these fasteners: I decided to start with the largest and most complex part of the boot space, which is the rear panel. As you will see from the above photo, there would be plenty of stretching and cutting to do on this piece to get it to look anything like OK... Then I cut a piece of the stretch carpet to roughly the right size: I actually quite like the clean look of the rear panel without all of the access holes etc. I appreciate that I will need the occasional hole for the lights, bumper mounts, earth connections etc, but I might just go straight down to the floor and ignore the holes - any thoughts guys? If I need to access anything else in that cavity, I can always just pop out one or both lights. To be continued...
    1 point
  10. This car has been doing the rounds on and off for a while now,was total vaux featured a few years back. Outstanding example for sure and love those rims,but agree with the above comments best kept bog standard. You would think with that mega low mileage it would still be factory original..buts its not, the total vaux owner went all ocd and completly rebuilt it anyway. So probably better than factory in that respect...anyway being a bit of a vaux/opel nut..at 25k can't help but think i could get my hands on a a nice vxr8 for under 20k🤔😮
    1 point
  11. Seems the seller removed the post on Facebook due to all the negative comments he was getting. Still for sale but going to re-advertise elsewhere. I suspect he was a collector/trader rather than a Manta fan.
    1 point
  12. yes and id want thr correct wheels and road legal number plates
    1 point
  13. Hi Rick welcome back this is my third time back ( no manta at this time)
    1 point
  14. as snowy says the pinout is different anyway so you cant just plug in a different dash .not sure why they did it that way ,you would think it would be easier to have one wiring loom as standard for all cars but i suppose it saved on a few lengths of wire . if you fit an aftermarket tach that uses a negative trigger like the original then its just a case of running a single wire through to the coil green wire ( you could use a black wire to be easier to hide if you dont want to wrap it into the loom) and then obviously a ignition fed live and an earth to run the tach. if you ever fancy changing to a 6 dial dash its just a case of relocating the dash plug pins into their correct locations and then adding an extra plug and an oil pressure sender and one more wire.
    1 point
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