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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/19 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Couldn't help but put a few bits on this morning before I went off to work for the day 😀
  2. 6 points
    The I tackled the LAST UNKNOWN quantity on the chassis. There was a small area of corrosion on the rear chassis leg boot support where the two overlap. It looked so superficial I ALMOST left it but I decided to investigate. A small corrosion spot turned into...this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3JjV9AqVwjmdVy2A6 So I tried to remake it as close to as original as possible, first make up some plates profiled to the shape and then cut out the rot. Then weld in the plates, close in the top with another sheet bent to fit and more welding and grinding. I'm quite proud of this but as it looks quite neat. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SqqYP1L8qkeEup3DA I then had to made up the rear section that closes over the top but all I had left was this... https://photos.app.goo.gl/C7uszUnXD9rmHGgy8 But I still managed to get this.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CMdKiLbo7XQE1q3L9 The last picture is taken in the house as I wanted to show my wife what I'd been working on. She couldn't have been less impressed!
  3. 4 points
    I have a electronical dehumidifier, with sensor so naked steel can't rust. But if I open the garage the dry air is blown away and that device starts working. I put the car on a car lift so the tyres stay round. This pic shows the identical car lift I'v got, because of town regulations I was not allowed to build a big garage so this lift doesn't need a lot of space: I open the rear quarter windows and the trunk so the inside of the sills and interieur is ventilated via the trunk. The battery is on a charger, but keep checking the level of the acid. A car battery that is allive uses acid. Make sure your tank is filled, modern fuel has got bio-ethanol. Even the super fuel (98) has got 10% of this stuff, Europeens regulations. So the lower the fuel in your tank makes it more moisture cause of condens. And you don't want to know what water does with bio-ethanol! Use the time in the winter to check your feul lines. The pressure lines of a G/TE don't like bio-ethanol so if they feel spongy change them with new lines that are made for bio ethanol.
  4. 4 points
    Thanks for the kind comments. If you don't have to sell yours then don't. Things are on the up for the early b,s. Alot of people relate to them from either having one or there parents having one . In the shit world we live in we are all hanging on to good old memories when we thought life was good and hassle free. These cars are part of them memories. Feel good factors. 😃 Cheers stuart.👌
  5. 4 points
    Well done Stu on achieving your asking price of £13000. That's a new record for a B1 coupe but yours was the best that has come up for sale for a few years now. It took a while to sell but you weren't in a rush & it paid off. I think the fact that your buyer had another nice B1 to compare with yours helped you achieve that cracking price. I thought my 42000 mile un-restored SRB was worth £7000 + i think i need to rethink my valuation now !
  6. 3 points
    Go on Stu, get the lad a nice Christmas present, it would surely make you a candidate for the best Dad ever award.
  7. 3 points
    Glad your car has gone to a new home to be enjoyed. Its a new record for a Manta B which shows that prices have changed dramatically.
  8. 3 points
    Some more done on the Passenger seat base cover this evening. Firstly I need to unpick some stitches that were retaining the bottom 'holding strip'. Basically, this added strength to the bottom of the vinyl that attached to the seat frame. Some messing around later: As you can see on the ends the vinyl is doubled up to provide strength and a neat edge for where it wraps around the hinge mechanism. So before I could use thisas a tempolate for my new vinyl, these stitches also have to come out... boring! Finally I stitched the 'wings' to the center seat material: Have a nice evening everyone.
  9. 2 points
    Gtreat advise, does your lift support the car under front and rear axle, or does it lift body of car, shell. Looks like axle, as they have not dropped. Is it an compressed air lift? Taking of winter hibernation! I am struggling with garage temperatures! I could do hibernation! Nice duvet, captain M, and plenty of sleep.
  10. 2 points
    I guess I too may have that brochure somewhere in the loft. Maybe. Now I know it's a brochure and not just a magazine advert, I might stand a chance of finding it. Ah, no, if I had the picture up in my garage, I must have ripped it out mustn't I? Hmmm. As for thoughts of buying another, well I did see the car below at a car show in Amlwch on Anglesey during the summer, and the thought did cross my mind!
  11. 2 points
    I have a standard camshaft and standard injectors. The standard 2.2E cam is the mildest there is for Opel CIH. It gives low rev torque and doesn't like RPM's over 5000 So if you like increase in power on your 2.2E first put another camshaft before buying an expensive EFI. Mu car is abit more powerfull with the EFI, probably because the Le2-jetronic airsensor is gone, this a big restriction. The intake manifold is also small for good airflow on a 2.2E . So the car is good for touring and nice driving.
  12. 2 points
    I think its cool🤪. Something different and rare.. I won't show my lad😟. I will never hear the end of it.
  13. 2 points
    looks a nice space I'd love a ramp or even a pit would do! it's not much fun squeezing under the car with Axle Stands these days, was easier as a skinny rake of a young lad! I had picked somewhere with what estate agents like to call a double garage this time (it's more like garage and a bit) it looked great with just the Manta in there - added all my stuff that I 'need' and it was filling up but I could get round all sides of the car unhindered. As ever though it's become a dumping ground for boxes and allsorts of non-manta related gear I need a Manta only garage!
  14. 2 points
    Soo, been a while without an update, due to work etc. With regards to the paint: OK it been a bit of a nightmare! A friend that was going to paint the panels was not available as he hurt his back - so it went to a ‘lad he knows’ . Checked out some of his jobs previously, all looked ok. BUT, yeah it’s a mess. He had issues with reaction apparently and then lost the will to do it and it shows. So it’s now going to a clasic restoration shop and getting the paint stripped back, glass out full respray. They have a slot in December due to a cancellation luckily, but unfortunately this type of job comes at a cost. So now having to pump another 3-4K into the car, but it’s worth getting it right now I am so far into this. They will get me put cures during this process, so will be posting them up soon. And I just picked up another lump for it. Was going to use the Redtop I had, but will be putting a low pressure Turbo SAAB 2.3 in this now, around 175bhp running the trionic5 management. Will be rebuilding engine first though. It’s come out a low miles 9000cse auto so not much to, just shells , rings new gaskets mostly.
  15. 2 points
    Thanks for the suggestions and pointers chaps - greatly appreciated. I have spent the last few days pondering this problem and exploring a few different ideas and option. I keep coming back to the same problem though - trying to match the piping that is on the seat base, which of course I have just finished. I just couldnt bear the thought of the back rest piping not matching the seat piping, it would just be a bodge. So... my plan was to try to reuse the original somehow... It occured to me last night that maybe the paint I used on the door card carpets might be a close match, so this morning I dabbed some on to see. In the first photo, the paint is on the left - quite close, even when compared to the faded piping/original: And here on side view, when compared to the original colour of the 'sewing flange': This convinced me that I must try to save, repair and reuse the original painting it where necessary. Not only had the piping cracked and split, it looked like it had been discoloured Black by something. I tried scratching it off and scraping off a layer, but it almost looks burnt?! - very strange. I decided to cut out the worst section, which was actually very short: And then set about baring back one end: This then allowed me to turn the good end around to meet the bared end. With a few dabs of super glue added to the internal piping, we have this: There were approx. 6-8 much smaller cracks in the remaining blackened section (now at the seat hinge end of the piping), so these were treat with some more super glue to a) hold them together and b) fill the cracks up. I will now leave everything to dry for a couple of hours and then give it all a dusting of Vauxhall Flame Red - fingers crossed
  16. 2 points
    Hey Andy, thanks for info. I saw it also so it is hanging in my garage ready to use ! So it has been a while I posted something, an update: The radiator is delivered and looks very nice. 50mm thick core with 43 cooling channels. Costed me with mailing 180€. Last week I took the decision the "400" has got to go...😥 To the winter storage in company of a lot of other old-timers😊. Need also the space to work on the GSI. So the day I wanted to drive to that location the car didn't start. Like the car knew it had to leave my garage. Checked some basic things and I had no ignition! The low voltage circuit was ok, also the resistors and the coil also. So got to check the wires that come from the "hall-sensor": Problem is this distributor is rather rare, got to check if the hall-sensor of a GSI is the same and so on... I will keep you all posted... Grts, Herman
  17. 2 points
    Doesn't mean much to me either mate - all I can tell you is that its stitch setting number two and tension 2.5 on my machine - I'm too scared to try anything else yet
  18. 2 points
    Ok thanks, not like that means much to me, but interesting all the same. I will have to ask my Mother at the weekend what it is
  19. 2 points
    Andy, made one of these for about £6, great for joggling, especially arches, so a step can be put behind original quarter panel, or bottoms of doors etc. I used box section, so it can be vised, and panel passed through it.
  20. 2 points
    Yeah similar issue to my silver one, what started out as a hole 5pence size soon escalates 🙀 But I think this has again convinced me to cut off the (replacement)sills off black coupe and investigate.👍 Nice work Andy, can clearly see how your building it back there, thanks.
  21. 2 points
    I can't believe my last update was May!I knew it had been a while but... Anyway, work has been progressing. Slowly, but progressing. The reason I stopped posting was that I was having to jump from job to job as time allowed and if didn't feel like I had anything to post that I'd completed. Ive complete, or nearly completed a few little tasks so here's a bit of an update. I stripped the front subframe a while back and I've been cleaning, treating the rust, priming and painting and I've got most bits done now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/G7nMJXLn9H2hFSEa9 A few more bits to go but the plan is to have it all ready for when the car can go back on its wheels. When I get sick of welding and grinding I clean and paint. I hate grinding welds back. Seems like such a backwards step... Anyway, about the same time I tackled the front headlamp inner mount area. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rdh4N6U92PpWY1pn8 This is upside down on the spit. The passenger side is fine. The driver's side looked ok but on further inspection it was paper thin so... I made up a new section https://photos.app.goo.gl/9hDhMbzzWib9yhhA8 Which, like any small bits I've made me far longer than it should off. I think I get fixated on trying to get detail right when often a plate would do, look just as good and be far quicker. Then I cut out all the rot, cleaned up all the seems and surface rust and treated the area with converter. I try to leave as much good metal in as possible so I have something to reference. Might not be the best approach but I'm learning as I go here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/b2jMz3vxCXTNvwXL6 Then I cleaned back were the welds go and add weld thru primer and we have this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/iCYGNVcSgEuZswLC7 Then weld and paint. I welded enough to secure it but not so much that it distorted the metal. Basically I plug welded where I could and that ran 1" long welds where old met new. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cD28YCQoooXUALFt6 Not perfect by far but not bad. I've also made some progress on the rear drivers side wheel arch. Same story as the front really. Passenger side was good inside and out. Drivers side, not so good. I removed the outer skin to find the inner lip was paper thin. Which meant I had to try and make a new one. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EoPeWPN6LEAemSY99 I did this by folding an angle in steel, cutting lots of slits into it. Shaping it and then welding all the slits back up again and then grinding everything back. Did I mention I hate grinding welds back? Before I could fit the outer wheel arch I had to repair the inner sill to the front and the boot floor to the rear as well as clean up and soak everything between the inner and outer wheel arch in rust converter. https://photos.app.goo.gl/QNzK7c5j9UoTdVa27 I then had to fit the outer wheel arch skin which was an absolute pain. I used a stepping tool as everything I read suggested this was the way to go, but I really struggles to get the swage lines on either side to line up and the arch to lie right. It took a fiddling but I got it to the point I was happyish. I've only tacked it for now as I'm going to wait until I can get to both sides to I can take some more measurements and profiles before I weld it in for good. So this is the inner arch all welder, cleaned up and zinc primed, then one of it just before fitting with sealer/adhesive in place and finally welded to the inner arch and tacked all around. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TCfynbV1N8f4M5zC6
  22. 2 points
    Starter motor, prepped, primered and painted. Alternator. Cleaned up, I got lucky with this as it's fairly new 😀 after what Jess said earlier it got me thinking about more orange. So bottom pully, irmscher inlet manifolds for the webbers, starter and alt brackets are all going in orange 😀
  23. 2 points
    It's been a long time coming this bloody garage 😂 it's only getting built once so I've gone as big as I could lol
  24. 2 points
    That engine is a work of art Sir. I also now have a severe case of garage/workshop envy!
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Cheers Jess it means a lot when you get positive comment, Have not got a lot of cash for Manta, but living in hope
  28. 1 point
    Yeah I bet mate, it’s amazing how fast these spaces fill up with stuff ‘you NEED’. mine is like one of those sheds you see on American Picjers shows, the ones full of junk of zero value 😂
  29. 1 point
    Yea it looks smaller every time i look at it. 🤨 I'm still planning on a ramp although it depends on the smallest span I can squeeze in. I'll soon fill it 😀
  30. 1 point
    Got the side wings of the front panel stitched on this evening.
  31. 1 point
    Very sorry to hear about the paint job Jess, I trust they didn’t charge you? Best if luck with the paint second time around and the engine rebuild.
  32. 1 point
    I agree ,especially when eBay and PayPal take they're cOmmision off too. But yes it's a fantastic place to buy from.virtually everything in my house and on my cars has come off eBay. Everything you wAnt turns up there EVENTUALLY rare stuff etc and for everyday items / spares it's perfect. cannot remember the last time I actually went into a motor shop or diy shop !
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Cheers guys. I have mentioned to him to look on the forum at this thread. But unfortunately he wants it saying sr on the log book. So rather than keep being messed about and listening to his moaning and the shit he is chatting. I gave him his deposit back. More trouble than its worth 🤬 So back to the drawing board. Need to find someone who understands mantas and not a knuckle dagger.🤪. My lads made up that we are keeping it for the time being.
  35. 1 point
    I fit new original Renault seat covers and they do not fit nice, a lot of pulley and tugging to get it fit right,So l whoud say yours are excellent ,and you you made they from scratch, excellent work
  36. 1 point
    Well I am now knee deep in the big final stitch - joining the fabric base of the with the Leatherette skirt. Even though it looks OK so far I have been plagued with problems. I think that my machine is right on the edge of its capability and that even with a Leather sewing needle fitted. I have already broken one needle and had numerous birds nests of thread. I have also been struggling to keep the material flat and in the right place as it passes under the needle. As I could feel myself getting frustrated and trying to 'force' things, I have decided to leave it for the evening and resume battle tomorrow. This is what we have so far - the good news is the piping is nice and tight to the fabric and the Leatherette, so if I can just get right round the seat base without too many more snags it should look pretty good: Have a nice evening everyone
  37. 1 point
    After thinking about this job a bit more, I decided that I could probably do it in two bits - so that's my plan. First job - try and stitch the piping and the Leatherette 'skirt' together: Mission accomplished - so far, so good! Now to try to attach the 'skirt' with piping to the main base fabric...
  38. 1 point
    I think at this point, I'd be taking a wander down the High St. to find an upholsterer or a clothes alteration place to run that up for me! 😄
  39. 1 point
    I very much doubt that matey - you have two Manta's!
  40. 1 point
    Hi Ian I have lots of socks that need fixing I'll drop them round later.love what your doing to be honest I wouldn't even consider recovering seats if you run into any problems or it doesn't turn out well let me know as I have a friend who's a professional seamstress she offered to make leather seat covers front and rear for my manta must admit was really tempted but I do have a thing about keeping it as standard as possible very best of luck.....with my socks that is.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Hi Jess, I used as original the 8mm one. It is as in your link also soft and easy to bend.
  43. 1 point
    I can do a good 4 speed gearbox at £80, gearbox mount at £15, alternator bracket £10
  44. 1 point
    As far as I know they’re pretty bombproof, when I got my ecu mapped they raised my rev limiter to 7300rpm😂and it quite frequently bounces off the limiter in 2nd and is still all holding up good. I read that the vanos can give bother, but I’ve not had any dealings with that side of it yet thankfully.....
  45. 1 point
    Thats why they putted the commo axle under the "400", and even this set-up was not that reliable to handle the competition engine: The Volvo axle is known to be tougher than the commo axle...
  46. 1 point
    Propshaft is on it's place, aswell the fuelpump. After some searching I found yesterday what I was looking for: Copper line 8mm with rubber insulated, they used it years ago with LPG autogas systems. Yet they use flexible hoses made of fibre. Those lines copper lines are ideal to use as fuelline cause the rubber protects it against corrosion. I used the old lines as a template. Made them longer under the seat so I can adjust the lines to the chassis: As you all can see the garden furniture is allready in wintermode😥 Grts, Herman
  47. 1 point
    Thanks, every little bit of info helps keep the thread complete mate 👍 I am for sure, had I stumbled on that earlier I may have chosen it over the MS. Thanks fir the input mate
  48. 1 point
    Had a day on the inner wings.Hopefully should finish one side of the car this week and get the drivers door and wing back on.Then i will start the rear of the car.How have you dealt with the back valance to floor area.
  49. 1 point
    Starting to lay stuff out ready for rebuild. Only just noticed this oil pump setup, longer gears with spacer to suit. Anyone else come across one of these ? I've never seen one like this. I'm also fitting new chain and guides
  50. 1 point
    Same set up I've got in mine. The b204 is a solid engine. Loads of information on vauxhall and Saab forums on it. Very reliable and can increase power pretty easily.
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