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  1. 8 points
    Just found this pic from Feb 1985, with polished (filthy at the time) Wolfrace slots & B F Goodrich Radial TA tyres. And currently:
  2. 8 points
    It’s the small details that make a big difference and provide a finishing touch to a project, when I bought the Manta three years ago, there was no boot liner or petrol tank concealing card, I know these can be made but I keep a look out for original parts, not easy to locate but thanks to another Manta owner I now have sourced these and trial fitted to see how it looks, from this, To this, now the boots tidy, Pleased with the result.
  3. 8 points
    Enjoy the video: Grts, Herman
  4. 7 points
    Ok so on to finishing the lower rear 1/4, had to make in 3 sections. Firstly i made the top (in the picture) section, will of course be the bottom when the car is up the right way! Once this is the correct shape and welded in place, it will help making the other sections as this runs the full length. I made the front section first, this is a little easier as the section just has a slight curve The rear section is harder because it curves both ways, i also managed to get a return on it where it fits inside next to the rear panel Next i'll be tackling the cill section, floor and the reinforcement section behind the rear of the cill which also attaches to the b pillar. Its always best where you can to drill out the spot welds, makes it easier in the long run and doesn't cause so much damage to the adjoining panels. As the cill had been patched before and looked pretty rough all over i will replace the whole length, this way i can also treat the inner cill. As you can see there is quite a bit of rust (no change there!) so first i will tackle the section behind the front seat belt mount I started to cut back the reinforcer panel and b post section to get to clean metal, piece that attaches to the back of the cill by the jacking point, i was hoping to save some of this but it had gone worst than i thought so out it came. I also at this point removed the section of the inner arch which had the rear seat belt bracket attached. Now all the rot is out of this section i will make up new sections to fit. The outer 1/4 panel above i will deal with once the cill is all lined up and ready to go in.
  5. 7 points
    Hi all don’t think done up date on my manta A 1.9 auto it back on the road after 10 of storage had tuned up by guy near me who’s a mechanic with krypton tuner ,so now the timing is correct it does not cut out when you brake and the put your foot down to pull out of a very busy junction (I live in village near where the new Hinckley point power station is under construction)loads of lorries and coaches so this could have been the end of the Manta and me hair raising and being an auto no chance of bump starting a case of coasting into the nearest turning . Ps a few photos now it’s had a good clean up a 4 new tyres regards sie willetts
  6. 6 points
  7. 5 points
    Managed to spend a bit of time in the garage this week, as mentioned above i will concentrate on the rear inner section of the cill, their are 3 parts to this. I had to repair the lower inner arch section where the seatbelt anchor sits first and the floor Once i was happy with that i moved on to the piece that attaches to the cill and also the rear jacking point, this had to be made from thicker metal as it could be supporting the car. I just had to cut out another section of rust first Then plate it up That piece fitted in a treat, so next was making the section that is part of the inner 1/4 panel and also the cill attaches to it as well. Once that was welded in i then repaired the section which attaches to it which is the base of the b post. Bit fiddly this section but best to take your time and also check the cill fits and lines up where it should. I then moved along the cill/ floor and had to fabricate a couple more plates before i got to the jacking point! Once i finish a section i like to coat it in Hydrate 80 for protection. Onto the jacking point To be honest the jacking point and floor around it had rotted but the chassis is very good, there was a small piece of corrosion on the outer skin that i removed and treated the inner but that was just a bit of surface rust. I have closely checked over the rest of the chassis leg and to my amazement its perfect with no signs of any rust issues any where, kinda feels like i'm cheating if i don't replace it!
  8. 5 points
    This afternoon I managed to get a second coat of primer on the bonnet, then left it to dry in the glorious Winter sunshine. With the OS, roof, bonnet and boot lid done I then needed to try to turn it around to give me more room in the garage to do the NS... Getting ready to head out into the big wide world: Well it did start and it did make it up the driveway, just. My Daughter was determined to have a go... The 'to do' side God help me. Oh well, its turned around now and just those three panels to prepare now.
  9. 4 points
    Just found some photos of my Manta taken at a local meet on Sunday.
  10. 4 points
    This afternoon I inspected the areas I primed earlier and as expected I found a series of small imperfections. So it was out with the trusty stopper filler. Once that has dried I will flat those areas back out and re-prime accordingly. After that I mixed up some more normal body filler and added that to the rear quarter panel. Once that has gone off, its back to even more boring sanding...
  11. 4 points
    Original Grill is Grey/cheesecutter style but i obtained an earlier black grill from a friend, so can swap when i want a change.
  12. 4 points
    Ok bit more of an update! Finished off the o/s arch up to the new sill section, it has had one fitted before but rusted through so that will be replaced, waiting on that part. I took the 1/4 back to bare metal and covered it with hydrate 80, this acts as a great etch primer plus stops the metal getting surface rust. So onto the n/s, this needed the same work as the o/s but also the spare wheel well needed replacing, once that had been done i could then finsh the fitment of the back panel. Onto the wheel well I had to make up another inner support that joins between the well and outer 1/4 panel, this one was a bit trickier than the other side as it had a curve for the wheel to fit. once that was welded in i could then weld in the wheel well and fit the toe eye as this doesn't come with the new one Next will be to finish the rear lower 1/4 section and then move onto the sill section which arrived yesterday along with both jacking points.
  13. 4 points
    Still amazed this hasn't sold yet. i know everyone wants the coupes but really its a great price for a lot of car Assuming its all been bolted together well and there are no hidden issues. Has anyone even been to look at it and driven it?
  14. 4 points
    That needs a strip and a professional spray job and keeping original. No mods at all! I would keep that as it is.
  15. 3 points
    havnt been on in a wile heres a couple a more pics
  16. 3 points
    Not quite, the 1st pic is where I grew up in Blackburn, there is an ASDA, Halfords etc there now, the 2nd pic is in Ramsbottom which refuses to move out of the 1800s.
  17. 3 points
    Spent a sweaty hour this evening grafting on the NSR quarter panel. There is still a loooonnngggg way to go yet, but the motivation is that this is the LAST, yes the last panel, to do on the whole car! If, and that's a very big if, I can get this panel shaped up during the week, who knows what might happen next weekend...
  18. 3 points
    That passengers mirror was the hardest part to source, I found it in an abandoned Ascona on the Greek island of Kefalonia, I borrowed tools to go and take it off and had to have the whole inside door rail too. The Grey grille was the original, I prefer it especially with the clear indicator lenses. But, its not my car anymore ! I am glad its loved and looked after. I do miss it a bit.
  19. 3 points
    An important moment for our "400": the 100.000km on the dash, than it goes back to 00000... Looked to the material of France, is the same but a silver hood. And nothing for us Mantamaniacs. Got something else: We just filled up our gas-tanks and are going to leave that place. Looks rather unorganized but gives a nice look at our cars, enjoy: Grts,Herman
  20. 3 points
    Well have done some work on the Manta, but not that much progress. Lot of time cleaning and degreasing. 10 years ago I gave the car a Dinitrol treatment, by a professional. The result is that all the bodyparts inside have that greasy wet stuff, the engine compartiment also...Takes ages to remove it! This is how the car is at this moment. Question: Never done it without disassamble the dash-board, is it possible to remove the heater box?(engine bay) Tried to look under the dash to check if I can unscrew those 4 bolts but my back is killing me today. Another rust-sensitive part: Removed the rust till naked steel, went into the seem with a Dremel grinding tool and treated it with rust-eater. Later some rust-converter on it and this is the result. Needs ofcourse some work. Found a Recaro-ventilation device in the floor pan! So cutted the steel till it was rustfree and welded a sheet of metal in it. Also a well known problem, the battery-tray. Still looks OK, but needs some minor repairs. The floor-pans were 10years ago welded, but the seams had some "fly-rust". De-rusted them, used rust converter and special metal paint to protect against rust. Grts, Herman
  21. 3 points
    Applied some stopper filler this evening to allow me to sort out the final little defects. After that is sanded down over the next couple of days, two or three decent coats of primer will follow then we can move on to the next panel.
  22. 3 points
    Yes, think I was wrong about the base model not having rubber inserts on the bumpers, but that does look like the base model. Hopefully you'll find it a good home with someone who'll love it for what it is, rather than what it could be. Early SR would've had this wheel.
  23. 2 points
    Very true Jason. To be honest I am almost having to force myself to slow down and to keep being methodical... I’m hoping that around the end of this month I might be ready for some top coat - fingers crossed!
  24. 2 points
    Guys, you've made a middle aged man very happy. That will be going to my photoshop wizard to get it sorted for a desktop wallpaper. Thats her, exactly as I remember her. Interesting they mention the bumpy ride. When I got her she was lowered and had the stock dampers replaced with bilstein all round. Also did a wee bit to the engine with a new cam, improved airflow and a janspeed exhaust with dual tailpipe. I considered the Peter Maiden 2.2 conversion but sold her before I had enough saved up. She ended her time with me after I ran her, at slow speed, into the back of a van at a roundabout. As I remember it Kool and the Gang were blasting out the Alpine stereo and the other driver said at least the radio was working. I was quoted over £1000 to repair her which was too rich for me at the time so I sold her. Subsequently saw her in and around Fife when I moved there. Oddly enough, shortly after that I owned a Lancia HPE but got rid very quickly due to corrosion. I've owned numerous other cars over the years but she was the first and the best. The stories she could tell... .
  25. 2 points
    Motivated by this weekends small milestone, I decided to dive straight into the N/S panels this evening. First off I hit the front wing with the DA sander and some 80 grit. Its not completely done yet, but already I can see that this wing has been a few different colours before - there is some light Blue, Green and Silver now visible Then I moved along a bit and started on the door. Sadly the evidence that this was once a Manta Berlinetta door is quickly disappearing... Next I ground off the side trim mounting 'pegs' (which you can also see in the above photo). This is simply because they are higher up on a Cav door. Finally I made a couple of minor adjustments to the line of the wing to door. Basically the wing was a bit too low from the swage line and downwards. A washers between the wing and the A post in both positions (the two bolts that you access from behind the foot well trim panel) solved that easily. However, this now meant that I need to widen the slot at the very base of the wing by about 2 mm though to allow the last bolt to go in OK. Enjoy your evening guys.
  26. 2 points
    Hes being very bloody cheeky using my pics and my advert wording . £2k was fair for that car . Good topside but deeply deeply rotten in many places floor and chassis wise. Never worth that price and i doubt he will get it
  27. 2 points
    Ian I'm sure it will look fantastic when done and yes I hate this type of work it's the same as decorating and painting 90% prep but worth it if done well.you should look back at the beginning of this epic topic to see how far you have come really looking forward to see this driving around town.
  28. 2 points
    More fun with the sanding block this evening - BORRRINNNNG! Block sanding does warm you up quickly in a very cold garage though I can tell you! I did make some decent progress though, the big NS low point is all but sorted - it now has a good shape and just need stopper filler before final sanding and priming. The OS low point near the washer jet hole is a different story though, that still has a very long way to go. I will chuck some more mud on that tomorrow night.
  29. 2 points
    Some good progress this morning. The boot lid is now in its final shape, which is very pleasing after so much mucking around with it. It seemed like every time I though I had it cracked I noticed another little place to attack. This time of year everything takes so long to dry/go off, so I had to wait hours or until the next day before I could continue. Anyway... that's all in the past now and the first proper coat of primer has just go on - hooray! Another couple of coats and we can move on again. In anticipation of completing the boot lid (and before the primer went on), I dived back in to the bonnet and starting sanding back some of the lumps of filler I had been chucking on there. Basically I kept mixing up too much for the boot lid and needed somewhere worthwhile to put the excess. If I thought that the boot lid was a test of endurance, I think the bonnet will be a whole new level... Cheers all, have a great weekend.
  30. 2 points
    Just thought i would share this in case anyone else was looking to solve the problem where and what to do if you have to remove the original water bottle. I have been scratching my head as the best option and came across a thread on an MX5 site, where they were relocating their washer bottle and nicked their idea. You can see a bit more info on my blog. http://www.theopelproject.com/ Andy
  31. 2 points
    Very interesting car that has to stay standard due to its rarity. To strip prep inc all glass out then a top quality paint job & refit all glass trim headlights etc i reckon would cost £4K-£5K
  32. 2 points
    Paint prices vary a lot depending on the area you live in too. Harrogate is no where near cheap for paintwork because they can charge the earth and people around here will pay, where as i know of a couple of paintjobs on mantas that have been done around 30miles away that were just over half the price you can get in harrogate for the same job. Or if you want to go a bit further i can get a good paintjob on a fully stripped car for £1000 but you have to drag it to the north east
  33. 2 points
    No I get a professional paint job for that price. He painted my coupe 16 years ago and the paint is still like glass. Obviously the car will have to be nearly there body wise and not need hours or welding etc
  34. 2 points
    Depends who is stripping it and how much of a strip you would want. A decent spray job is £2000 inc paint
  35. 2 points
    Just cleaned up the engine bay/under bonnet area where the wiper linkage and motor sits. I ended up removing a combination of 40 years worth of dirt, dust, cobwebs, snail shells and a pile of small nuts stockpiled by something... I also took the opportunity to plug the wiper motor back in to make sure it still worked after my messing around - luckily it does lol
  36. 2 points
    I ordered a sample of this product this afternoon: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Foil-Tape-Rolls2-48mm-X-45m-Heat-Insulation-Duct-Self-Adhesive-Silver/263110117156?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562108815246&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It will be interesting to see how it all works out
  37. 2 points
    Mine is a deluxe model also, DL on the log book Its yellow too! But it is manual. 🤤
  38. 1 point
    Plenty of car search engines on the net. Haven't seen this one crop up before. seems to pull lots of cars in from the Netherlands and Belgium. Not much info on the actual cars or photos which is a shame. http://www.theparking-cars.co.uk/used-cars/opel-manta.html
  39. 1 point
    Here’s the manta v lancia photo and link to the article
  40. 1 point
    The first skim of filler was applied this evening to the front wing and to the door bottom and where I cut the trim 'pegs' off yesterday.
  41. 1 point
    Absolutely outstanding work! I really wish I could have flipped mine over on a spit...
  42. 1 point
    Advisory free MOT's back to 2006! That's quite something for any car never mind a Manta!😁
  43. 1 point
    You have to have the weirdest photos, thought this was a airbrush jobbie! Skull on the door, it is weird! Is it there in real? Spooky!
  44. 1 point
    Confused?......... Have you put waxoil in the cavaties? No chance of getting it all out! Waxoil will never dry completely, if it is sprayed on outer base of car! It could be wiped off, rags, a solvent, Anyway still confused, red oxide is a primer, so it is porus, you will need to paint, and protect paint with something, i use stone chip personally. Reason why, it dries solid, and if it needs to come of in future, it will.To treat cavaties i use a shutes gun, with extended hose ends. I also drill from inside car staggered holes, to get correct coverage, and use grommets to seal holes.
  45. 1 point
    There was a 15 year old mars bar on ebay recently for 22p! Think prices may have doubled from 2k! back to the car in question, great wee driving car, great gearing, well mine is anyway, just keep it planted, 3rd, to 4th, to third, pulls well for a 40 yr old car! A great base to make a great car out of. as i said before these cars are not cast from concrete, specs have and did change, think things where more layed back 40 yrs ago.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Apparently, its duct foil tape, you can also get chrome vinyl, main concern is apparently a headlight reaches 150˚C. Maybe not for a manta? But i have researched this for a while now, top is metalization, which is aluminium vapourised in a pressurised chamber. You can guess how much this is? Next up is chrome plating, which involves three processes, actually this is the most expensive, Next up was chrome powder coating! Then hydro spraying, then hydro dipping, then airbrushing with chrome paint, and laquered involves process where the reflector starts gloss black. all but the metalization, are untested against bulb heat and uncertain how long these will last, non are exactly cheap. bottom line is foil tape and chrome vinyl. But hard to beat a nice set of headlights! 🤤🤤🤩😋
  48. 1 point
    I like the black one! Whose is that?
  49. 1 point
    And finally back on the road!! She's back on the road at long last!!
  50. 1 point
    If you look through this project thread on our website you'll see the same conversion done on a chevette. http://www.retropower.co.uk/projects_LET_Chevette.php It's identical to the manta/cavalier job really, only easier in a manta/cavalier as there's more room! The transmission tunnel does NOT need modifying in a cavalier for the omega box other than the need to cut out a little for the gearlever, same as if you were putting the 5 speed manta box in. You need to cut a couple of lugs off the side of the gearbox. There are 4 of them iirc, they are only used for mounting it to jigs in the factory, and the front ones can be chopped off, this gives clearance on the mounts in the tunnel.
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