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Showing content with the highest reputation since 20/03/21 in Posts

  1. Lots of stuff has gone on the car since my last update. Doesn't seem much point in doing a detailed write up on here anymore as the site is dead and only the odd couple of people seem to follow the build here so I'll keep it short and sweet and just update with pictures instead just for future reference. I've been doing my regular updates on my Facebook page which has a much bigger following and more interest in the build. Car is now also running and driving
    13 points
  2. Last weekend me and my wife visited the Belgian Ardennes, the weather looked fine so we did this with the Manta. The car had a rebuild but cause of Corona the overhauled engine had no possibility to make miles. Some pics: Next morning checking the engine, looking for leaks etc.: This pic shows why I need to fit those mudflaps again, so Ian you know why: We had a nice "Morantic" walk in the neighbourhood the same morning but in the afternoon we took the Manta out, some pics: The Ardennes have a second world war past: A turret of a Sherman Firefly tank: When we arrived at our location we took some time for an apéritif, what do you need more? Sunday we took the Manta for another tour, we drove also to the village "La Gleize" where we visited the museum and ofcourse the "KingTiger": Look at the difference of size between the "Tiger" and the Manta: The tank commander said "Ich solte meine Königstiger neben die schöne Manta parken" The "KingTiger" weights the same as 65 Manta's. When we arrived at home the Manta has got 1200km, so I need to torque the head again. The car did fine, noticed when I had the official speed of 120 km/h the tacho gave almost 140 km/h so I need to check the plastic drive wheel in the gearbox... Stay safe & healthy, Herman
    13 points
  3. Up to my local garage today for service, engine oil, oil filter, air filter and changed gearbox oil, then put a new MOT on it, sailed through as I expected, now ready for the nice spring days ahead 👍
    11 points
  4. 11 points
  5. Always better on here. Facebook is a quick shot gone tomorrow kind of place. Here, it’s engraved a bit deeper.
    9 points
  6. Porting the head, did not grind a lot away. Just making the curves smooth, also on the seems of the casting: Grinded more alu on the outside, used a gasket as template. Polishing the combustion chambers, so they keep longer clean: My fingers hurt, but it is worth it
    9 points
  7. Started today. Good little engine I have ended up with. Original mains and big ends show hardly any wear and oil drained out of it was clean like new. No lip other than carbon on block cylinder wall, but will be stripping the 1.9 tomorrow for dummy building the crank etc into. Exterior of engine parts have suffered a little surface oxidisation, but inside the engine is excellent, no issues with any of the bolts into the Alu parts surprisingly, everything unbolted exactly as it should (for once) 😎 Sadly snapped a couple of studs removing the exhaust manifold, and manifold is also scrap I think as seems to have suffered cracking that plagues the 2.4 engine. I'll get broken studs removed before I sell the head. But main pulley crankshaft bolt, OMG it was tight, real tight. Like nightmare tight, thank goodness for the induction tool to get that bolt heated ! 🙈 Pics attached, head dummy onto the block so you see where we heading. Added a few screen grabs of the pdf instructions. Will try and get them hosted complete, but a little taster for now is included as pictures for those that might not have seen this modification before. Parts supplier is Risse, but there are a few others that make some parts, but just so you can see what is available and sone of the eye watering prices if you buy everything ( I intend to have a lot made in the U.K. locally ). https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https://risse-motorsport.de/opel-motor-tuning/24v-4-zylinder/
    9 points
  8. Found some time between Grandad duties this weekend to get the rear ones fitted: The fronts wont be here for a while, so I now need the headliner materials to turn up before I get too bored
    9 points
  9. Slow start to the rebuild. Got the old girl fired up and running though. Nice smooth engine and the auto box working good. Starting to to pull parts together that I will need, Looking for a good drivers wing and a roof panel. Would take a roof panel either with or without sunroof. If anyone knows of any please let me know.
    7 points
  10. Some time ago I posted some news, had some days a low profile on this forum. All the valves are lapped and fitted. Also the stemseals. Because the original stemseals are not available anymore I fitted a size that are almost identical: As usually I use a plastic foil to protect the stemseal from the sharp edges of the grooves: To push the seals at their place I used a tube without sharp edges that fits on the metal part of the seal: Checked with a mirror if the stemseal is fitted as wanted and yes it looks OK: Before fitting the valve spring with the tool I wanted to know how deep I could press the tool, so I layed an upper valve retainer on the stemseal: Using the tool: All the valves fitted in the head: To be sure what head gasket to fit I measured the combustion chambers, and luckily they are all the same ,some more or less some drops: 52,50CC: After close inspection of the bearings of the crankshaft I noticed one half bearing with an imperfection so I'm going to fit new bearings. My local parts-shop delivered last year those bearings but yet not anymore. Looked at the internet and found a set on a well known website: The Opel Project! Andy known as "611" on this forum sold me the set of bearings, so thanks Andy 👍 After some calculating I ordered today the head gasket (reinforced) at Risse, again waiting. Stay safe, Herman
    7 points
  11. Luckily the rest stayed put, and was finger tight to remove. Lucky. Just need to source a new bolt. then finished drilling the down pipe bolts. Tried heat and stud extractors but they didn’t work. So I drilled and tapped them out.
    7 points
  12. We have been dealing with a company called Expressed Panels in Keighley but as Steve says, things have ground to a halt because of lockdown. We have provided a few panels for them to start working on, namely A series front lower valance and B series complete rear panel, with the option of having the lower half made separately. They also have a battery tray for a B series that they have been investigating making up a repair panel. Hopefully we can get things moving on this again now things are starting to open up a bit. https://www.steelpanels.co.uk
    7 points
  13. 7 points
  14. Following the build on fb as well but this is a great build to keep a record of here too if it’s not too much hassle. There’s still a lot of views still on this site if the built-in counter has any credibility but it hasn’t had a widespread culture of ‘likes’ for posts. Fb is for the now, a post has a life of, what, a week? Have tried searching fb for older info & it ain’t fun but I totally get that’s where the people are even if much of the rest of the fb noise is maddening 🤪 Cool build btw! 👌
    6 points
  15. A parcel arrived some days ago, was informed with an émail and I thought it would be the set of bearings of Andy. But no it was a parcel of Risse, Germany: Inside the 1,5 mm headgasket and a baffle plate: Some think why the baffle plate? It is easy made but the one of Risse is rather cheap and I can make a template of it. Cleaned the gearbox and fitting new oil seals: Grts, Herman
    6 points
  16. Valve clearance is adjusted. Not the most popular job but needs to be done. I was afraid cause of the valve lapping the adjustment could be changed and it did. Before I stripped the cams etc. I measured the clearance and fitted everyting in plastic numbered cups. After refitting everything two valves were too tight, they must have 0,15-0,20mm clearance. There were a few with 0,20 so I measured those shims and after a few hours and refitting/measuring this job was done. I don't have a set of shims so I'm happy I didn't had to order new ones @ Risse. Remember I had to do this with those fantastic Jaguar straight six engines that we had in the CVRT's. The tappets and shims looked the same. Picture of the head with cams: Some will notice I have to remove the cams again before fitting the head on the engine, but this work of patience is done. Have all a nice Sunday
    6 points
  17. Hello everyone, and thanks for accepting my membership. I bought this very nice 1971 Manta 1.6S in 2019. This is a rust free low mileage car (36k miles - 59k Km). It spent the first half of its life in Italy before coming to the UK in the 1990s. I imagine it may be known to the club. I love this car. I have always wanted one since the 70s and will ensure its continuing careful preservation in standard form. I may fit some alternative period option Rallye wheels but that will probably be all. Any other slight modifications will be fully and harmlessly reversible. I served my apprenticeship in Vauxhall engineering in Luton in the early 80s and have a small collection of rare 60s and 70s Vauxhalls also including two rare Viva HB GTs, a very early prototype Firenza (the world's oldest known Firenza) and two very rare VX series 490s. I'm seeking advice about obtaining a club valuation for my Manta for insurance purposes. I have tried to contact admin and have requested membership of the club Facebook page but I'm aware the Manta club will be volunteer run and that requests may take some time. Can anyone assist in pointing me in the right direction for a club valuation? I live in Shropshire and have family near Chepstow on the South Wales / Gloucestershire border, if valuations are done by regional club representatives. Many thanks, Colin
    6 points
  18. I put 12 months road tax on today and took the Manta out for a run, a beautiful sunny day for it, nice and dry roads, clocked up 200 miles. With the time changing last weekend it’s noticeably lighter for longer already in the evenings, these photos were taken roughly 8.45pm, this photo is right on the north east coast in Scotland in a small costal village called Pennan, where they did some filming for the movie Local Hero, although I haven’t seen it myself, but the scenery is beautiful,
    6 points
  19. It’s in! got the heat gun out and warmed the area up. Got the raiser out the freezer and it didn’t fall in, I managed to squeeze it in with a large bar and a socket on top.
    6 points
  20. And a lock of paint
    6 points
  21. Pics of the new pistons/rods: My fingers hurt a bit cause of fitting those C-clips. Close pic of a piston top: Putting them in the engine took some time, those bottom oil rings have very tiny rings and wanted not to break them. The pistons in the engine: Began with cleaning the timing cover, wanted to pull out the oil seal as usually with a screwdriver but this one didn't flip out. So I took a hammer and a tool to beat it out from the inside and no I only bended the lips. Looks like it is glued? Going to grind it open with a dremel, tomorrow...
    5 points
  22. Agreed with both above. The forum is a long term record of the restoration, FB is for instant updates.
    5 points
  23. Well there out old school style hacksaw blade, screwdriver,mole grips and maximum effort took a hour not too badly corroded back there but very stubborn fought me to the last turn Now for the new with copper slip No more cable ties ☺️
    5 points
  24. I forgot to update this with the work I have done on the axle. 4HA axle had the original mounts cut off it and I made a new set using some laser cut steel supplied by Andy Rutts. Bottom bush is the original carlton one that’s going to be changed for poly flex. Top and bottom arms made to the same length as curts Ascona with measurements supplied by Nat at RP. Bottom pans are commodore and have rose joints at the end. Upper ones are cut down scimitar ones with rose joints at the axle end. Axle positioned under the car and levelled with the car. Side to side and up and down levels were set with plumb bobs, levels and angle levels and rack of the eye. The top and bottom arms were set to make the top one slightly pointing toward a fictional centre point forward where the two axis would intercept around the engine. The pinion angle is around 3 degrees up at ride height. But with the rose joints on opposite ends of the axle this can be adjusted. Finding the centre of the car inside was quite difficult as we found the sides were not identical. The centre was found and a laser used to set the cut guide. Slots cut out and group 4 boxes set into place, ish. I wanted to retain a standard looking interior with a back seat as I don’t like the look of no back seat and I’ve a blitz interior to go into this. So the box top height was set so a seat just fits ( foam removed to allow boxes to fit ) Car turned over and there’s a lot of box to trim off. I possibly could of made the boxes myself as most of the box has been cut away. Next is to remove some brackets from and old axle to put the billys on. Then look at the pan hard rod or using the watts linkage. then it’s all off again and sent to the axle builder to pit in the jag lsd and cwp of choice as I have a few ratios to choose from.
    5 points
  25. I need a Coupe roof. I did need two but have past the point of no return on one car now. It’s easy to find most manta panels quite cheaply if you’re patient, but after the cost of shipping, stripping, repairing etc. you can easily be hundreds of pounds in. I recently bought a really solid door but it still needed dismantling to treat the rust in the twin-wall construction in the end of the door. I for one would love a reliable source of panels. You could sell to non OMOC members at a slight premium allowing club members to enjoy preferential rates. 😃
    5 points
  26. I prefer a higher side wall as it soaks up the utter shit hole of roads we have and protects my back from complete destruction. Every little helps! Plus the arches are better filled than empty. Hehe
    5 points
  27. Good day today, sun shining and things going to plan. Took head down this morning along with my iPad to see the Engineering shop, and they said yes, no problem 🎂 They specialise in cast Alu and SS welding pipwork and have a bit if a hobby sideline with stuff they are interested in. So they used to doing cast Alu welding that us none porous for industrial chem sites, so good enough for a car head ! They can Cut, build up welds and machine down in thier shop; best of-all they are within a few of miles of my house - happy days 🥳 So back to workshop and spent rest of today completely stripping the head bare. Also extracted the snapped studs in the 2.4 head, both came out easy as hot knife through butter. My luck is in today! Maybe I should have out some cash on lotto 🤑 Pics attached with a few markings. Pretty much nailed the procedure now and it's all starting to make a bit more sense too. Dropping head off tomorrow, first thing they will do is get it chopped to see what's what.
    5 points
  28. Surface rust on a Manta? do you want to rethink that comment? 😉
    5 points
  29. At last the parts of Risse arrived: Got to visit this week the "Do it yourself market" cause of the high corona numbers they will be closed from Saterday.
    5 points
  30. A little paint across the engine
    5 points
  31. The crappy heap of shite made £7250. He will be happy the seller at that: Hopefully somebody sets fire to it now!
    5 points
  32. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    4 points
  33. Excellent updates as always H. Many thanks.
    4 points
  34. I bought a pair of them from " PAST PARTS" a couple oy years ago, don't remember what they cost, but they were not expensive. PAST PARTS.01284750729. The guy I spoke to was called Nigel.
    4 points
  35. Hi julian. Hope you and your family are safe and well 🤞 Adrian Flux are shite. Dont even know why they are on the forum. You'd get a better policy from your local dry cleaners 👍🤣🤣 I wouldn't trust them to insure a wheel barrow.😡
    4 points
  36. I’m not sure who the area rep for Shropshire is, but I’m only in the next area over (staffs and Dale’s) and I can do you a letter headed valuation from the club. I’d need to see the car, but currently I can’t drive. If it’s something you want to arrange with me I’d be more than happy to help you.
    4 points
  37. In 2014 I helped on a topic but some forum members can't open that topic anymore. Uploaded the pics again and gonna try with some copy/past to fit the text again. Chassis Manta/Ascona 400: The other foto shows where the upper links are placed. On the rear you can see the thin sway bar, and also the black stabilisation bar, that one is identical as the original one (size)but the inner is cilindrical. I can give you the dimensions of the upper and lower arms, with some math I can calculate the angle of both, the localisation of the arms on the axle from the centre of the axle... I saw that the brackets look like welded boxes but they have already an angle, I think they are not the same as a commo axle. Length lower links (centre bolt to centre bolt):54cm top links (centre bolt to centre bolt):29.5cm Following measurments are taken where the centre of the link crosses the centre of the bolt: Distance between the lower links (Left-right) chassis side:71cm axle side: 103cm top links chassis side:76.5cm axle side: 65cm Distance between the top of the 19mm bolts of the lower links axle side, measured on the inside left to right: 92mm Pictures in the next post! Mounting of sway bar Other pics: Some measurments: Bump stop above the nose of the diff: Distance between series leg and 400 chassis leg After some calculating I have the next results: Angle of lower link 17.2 degrees Angle of top link: 11.2 degrees If you compare the pictures you can see on sight that the angle of the lower link is bigger than the top link. The centre prop mount, from the centre of the cross to the gearbox-house (the end with the oil-seal)it is 60cm. From the centre of the cross to the centre of the cross rear axle side is 73cm. Retro Power (someone on this forum) gave also some helpfull info: Digging up this topic as I'm doing some "sorting out" regarding a few 400 rear axle related things. Just measuring up on a good straight 400 road car with no known accident history etc so I can make a jig for locating the rear chassis rail sections on the 'shell. This is now done and I have made a few observations, which largely agree with what's above but just thought I'd record them here for posterity and future reference! The upper link brackets appear to be as near as makes no difference 12 degrees outwards from perpendicular with the axle tube. The upper links are 296mm long between centres Lower links are 16 degrees inwards from perpendicular. Lower link brackets on axle are spaced further apart on 400 axle compared to commodore axle Upper link brackets are closer together on 400 than commodore Rear shock absorber mounts are higher up on lower link brackets on 400 compared to commodore. Panhard rod mounting is different between 400 and commodore If someone has got more questions about this topic don't hesitate, Grts, Herman
    4 points
  38. 4 points
  39. Lapping the valves, the carparts shop gave me that nice tool to use: Why I wanted those 16 valves...
    4 points
  40. They never had the chrome trim around the rear that was cavalier only Ah, always suspected the Cavaliers were a cut above the others. 😉
    4 points
  41. Ended up at £5450 but didn't meet reserve I think £5k + is a good price for a Cavalier saloon.
    4 points
  42. Today I made a tentative start on the headliner. It turns out it was a case of one step forward, two steps back I am afraid. When I fully unwrapped the vinyl, I found that both colours had beep creases in them from the folding at the suppliers and the associated transportation. I phoned the supplier to ask for some help and advice, which was to either try an iron on a low setting and/or a steamer. We have both of those, so I tried both - sadly neither worked well enough to give me confidence to proceed. So after another call to the supplier it was agreed that they would send me replacements, but this time on a roll - which is how I had assumed it would be supplied the first time to be honest... Anyway, so now I am waiting for the vinyl again - fingers crossed it show up before next weekend, but I am not betting on it. Disappointing, but worse things happen at sea. I then decided that I could at least prepare the rod pockets, so that's what I did. First cut the strips a bit longer than you know you will need - you can always shorten them! I think I only need four, but I cut five as I know that I am bound to mess one up along the way Then fold them edge to edge and run it through the sewing machine: Eventually, you should end up with them all looking a bit like this: Enjoy your weekend everyone
    4 points
  43. £150 is bang on for a nice 1 👍
    4 points
  44. I would say it looks better without, but that's just because I was watching them. I went to buy them half a day later and they'd sold to you!!!! 😁😁😁 They look great and well worth the £30 to protect the back panels.
    4 points
  45. I think they applied surface rust at the factory.
    4 points
  46. Thanks Herman. The bores in this 2.4 are excellent. We are going to pull the pistons tomorrow to check the full wear, but initial checks are positive. So plan B is an option, but would prefer to put the 2.4 into an early 1.9 block with a fresh std bore. Also hope to visit the machine shop too, see how much of a crackpot they think I am when I explain the plan 😂
    4 points
  47. There was one 400 hatch produced, it was build by Opel & Irmscher. Was a blue one and I spoke to the owner on one of those "400" meetings in Holland. Car was in a bad condition but the owner wanted to restore it. http://www.mantab.de/www.mantab.de/cms/front_contentdcc1.html?idcat=105
    4 points
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