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Showing content with the highest reputation since 13/04/21 in Posts

  1. Lots of stuff has gone on the car since my last update. Doesn't seem much point in doing a detailed write up on here anymore as the site is dead and only the odd couple of people seem to follow the build here so I'll keep it short and sweet and just update with pictures instead just for future reference. I've been doing my regular updates on my Facebook page which has a much bigger following and more interest in the build. Car is now also running and driving
    13 points
  2. Always better on here. Facebook is a quick shot gone tomorrow kind of place. Here, it’s engraved a bit deeper.
    9 points
  3. Following the build on fb as well but this is a great build to keep a record of here too if it’s not too much hassle. There’s still a lot of views still on this site if the built-in counter has any credibility but it hasn’t had a widespread culture of ‘likes’ for posts. Fb is for the now, a post has a life of, what, a week? Have tried searching fb for older info & it ain’t fun but I totally get that’s where the people are even if much of the rest of the fb noise is maddening 🤪 Cool build btw! 👌
    6 points
  4. A parcel arrived some days ago, was informed with an émail and I thought it would be the set of bearings of Andy. But no it was a parcel of Risse, Germany: Inside the 1,5 mm headgasket and a baffle plate: Some think why the baffle plate? It is easy made but the one of Risse is rather cheap and I can make a template of it. Cleaned the gearbox and fitting new oil seals: Grts, Herman
    6 points
  5. Pics of the new pistons/rods: My fingers hurt a bit cause of fitting those C-clips. Close pic of a piston top: Putting them in the engine took some time, those bottom oil rings have very tiny rings and wanted not to break them. The pistons in the engine: Began with cleaning the timing cover, wanted to pull out the oil seal as usually with a screwdriver but this one didn't flip out. So I took a hammer and a tool to beat it out from the inside and no I only bended the lips. Looks like it is glued? Going to grind it open with a dremel, tomorrow...
    5 points
  6. Agreed with both above. The forum is a long term record of the restoration, FB is for instant updates.
    5 points
  7. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    4 points
  8. Excellent updates as always H. Many thanks.
    4 points
  9. Front wings stonechiped and body coloured, rear brakes assembled working hand brake, cailpers fitted but having hose issues, lh rh door bottoms repaired boot lid baremetaled and primerd front wing permanently fitted. Steering fitted
    3 points
  10. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    3 points
  11. Yes drilled a hole in each tab and elongated them original plastic adjuster clicked in nice and tight.
    3 points
  12. Also make very good kitchen lights The other is a Hella.
    3 points
  13. When you look at the Risse head gasket one of the holes on the front of the bolts is oval, so it fits on classic CIH engines and also on a "400" engine. Think also on the cut off 24V heads/engines, because that head is rebuilded to fit on a CIH. Today the bearings of Andy (611) arrived, with some delay because I had to pay some taxes. So in the future we (EU mainland) have to think over what to order and how we "define" parts we order in the UK. Nevertheless I'm happy with those bearings so Andy thumbs up! 👍 Noticed yesterday there is a gasket between the gearbox house and the plate whit the oil seal. Looked it up and yes it is original and I don't have that gasket. So gonna order it at our friend Thomas "Edelschmiede", and when you open that website I will order more ofcourse. While I'm waiting for that I will work on the engine. Grts, Herman
    3 points
  14. Slow start to the rebuild. Got the old girl fired up and running though. Nice smooth engine and the auto box working good. Starting to to pull parts together that I will need, Looking for a good drivers wing and a roof panel. Would take a roof panel either with or without sunroof. If anyone knows of any please let me know.
    3 points
  15. Valve clearance is adjusted. Not the most popular job but needs to be done. I was afraid cause of the valve lapping the adjustment could be changed and it did. Before I stripped the cams etc. I measured the clearance and fitted everyting in plastic numbered cups. After refitting everything two valves were too tight, they must have 0,15-0,20mm clearance. There were a few with 0,20 so I measured those shims and after a few hours and refitting/measuring this job was done. I don't have a set of shims so I'm happy I didn't had to order new ones @ Risse. Remember I had to do this with those fantastic Jaguar straight six engines that we had in the CVRT's. The tappets and shims looked the same. Picture of the head with cams: Some will notice I have to remove the cams again before fitting the head on the engine, but this work of patience is done. Have all a nice Sunday
    3 points
  16. Looking very nice Herman. Good to hear the bearing are all ok. Those clips are a bugger and i know what you mean about hurting your fingers 🙂 When i fitted my pistons last time i used a sleeve ring compressor, well worth the money and so easy to use with virtually no chance of any issues with rings using these. http://www.theopelproject.com/fitting-pistons/ Andy
    2 points
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    2 points
  18. Done plenty door skins in the past in this day and adge complete doors bought new to save Time and money skins were always damaged even being well packed back in the day when they were obtainable
    2 points
  19. Great work! modern body shops don’t like old school work. You need to find an old school body guy to fit door skins nowadays.
    2 points
  20. Lovely mate, coming together now. That a new door skin you fitted?
    2 points
  21. The car looks great! Please keep posting over here, I'v got no FB account. When I say that people look at me as I'v got a strange disease...
    2 points
  22. Its a dangerous thing looking on Edelschmiede as there are so many nice extra bits you end up ordering 🙂
    2 points
  23. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    2 points
  24. Looks amazing with the blitz fabric, please keep updating on here as I'm not on Faceache along with probably a lot of others.
    2 points
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    2 points
  26. Not that I’m aware of. Think someone was trying to remake them but was very expensive. I’m sure a 3D printer would knock them out pretty easy by now.
    2 points
  27. Crikey, I might sell a few sets. Possibly even the boxed new ones...
    2 points
  28. looking at a wheel diameter calculator the standard 165/80/13 and 185/70/13 .your size of 205/60/13 comes in just a tad lower so a yellow driven gear should work ok.better to be on the lower side than above .speed camera wise !
    2 points
  29. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    2 points
  30. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    2 points
  31. Opel Manta hatch going into auction on the 26/4/21 at Manor park auction ln red with history Sorry don’t know to do a link thing, l think someone on here can do it
    1 point
  32. Just double check tip to tip length is 415mm got some from Germany silver end to small gold ones are correct in size got some braided hoses made to the correct length on full lock touches tyre.
    1 point
  33. Yes Andy, it's always as opening the cave of Alibaba😄. At this moment your new bearings are allready fitted and torqued. Am yet fitting the conrods on those new forged pistons, pics will follow.
    1 point
  34. Thanks for all the helpful info
    1 point
  35. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  36. Yes it does Jess. Gonna fit new seals in my "400" gearbox and I'll make some pics of it.
    1 point
  37. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  38. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  39. I fancy these but can’t justify it. If you’re doing an original/concourse build however they’re hard to find so may be of interest & possibly worth importing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cibie-5-3-4-Ecode-main-high-beam-headlamp-pair-100w-H1-bulb-upgrade-genuine-/224406356835?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
    1 point
  40. It's a good point that those adapter bezel are definitely a 3D printer option
    1 point
  41. How much Ian? I can’t find any at home or up my unit so looks like I need a set. in other news. Slow progress on the engine. I’ve fitted a NOS water pump, wanted to convert it to viscous but will see how I get on with the solid fan. Manifolds on, just waiting another bolt for the inlet to exhaust. Thermostat fitted too. Also awaiting clutch kit. And I’ll refurbish the starter motor in the next few days then that can go on. Then it’s engine in time! currently struggling to get a large flange exhaust down pipe gasket. I bought a large flange gasket off edelschmiede but it’s still too small, like the gasket I’ve already got. Which has annoyed me somewhat.
    1 point
  42. Quite interesting to see the difference between the head gasket for yours and the standard one for the 2.4! With extra holes for cooling for the 2.4
    1 point
  43. Succes with the rebuild. My second Manta was also a 1.8, nice engine. Read in those days an article in a German magazine that the 1.8S engine had 96Hp (tested) but Opel downsized that number to keep the 20S in production.
    1 point
  44. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  45. My wife thanks you and has added you to the Christmas card list 😂 Same as you Jess , just the engine really, I want to do two heads at the same time. I think you ought to do the right thing by the car and repair it , it only looks a weekend job 🤔🤪 Could I be cheeky and ask a ball park figure on how much they charged for getting it back to you . It was a long way south 😱
    1 point
  46. Some time ago I posted some news, had some days a low profile on this forum. All the valves are lapped and fitted. Also the stemseals. Because the original stemseals are not available anymore I fitted a size that are almost identical: As usually I use a plastic foil to protect the stemseal from the sharp edges of the grooves: To push the seals at their place I used a tube without sharp edges that fits on the metal part of the seal: Checked with a mirror if the stemseal is fitted as wanted and yes it looks OK: Before fitting the valve spring with the tool I wanted to know how deep I could press the tool, so I layed an upper valve retainer on the stemseal: Using the tool: All the valves fitted in the head: To be sure what head gasket to fit I measured the combustion chambers, and luckily they are all the same ,some more or less some drops: 52,50CC: After close inspection of the bearings of the crankshaft I noticed one half bearing with an imperfection so I'm going to fit new bearings. My local parts-shop delivered last year those bearings but yet not anymore. Looked at the internet and found a set on a well known website: The Opel Project! Andy known as "611" on this forum sold me the set of bearings, so thanks Andy 👍 After some calculating I ordered today the head gasket (reinforced) at Risse, again waiting. Stay safe, Herman
    1 point
  47. Lapping the valves, the carparts shop gave me that nice tool to use: Why I wanted those 16 valves...
    1 point
  48. Porting the head, did not grind a lot away. Just making the curves smooth, also on the seems of the casting: Grinded more alu on the outside, used a gasket as template. Polishing the combustion chambers, so they keep longer clean: My fingers hurt, but it is worth it
    1 point
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