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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/21 in Posts

  1. Lots of stuff has gone on the car since my last update. Doesn't seem much point in doing a detailed write up on here anymore as the site is dead and only the odd couple of people seem to follow the build here so I'll keep it short and sweet and just update with pictures instead just for future reference. I've been doing my regular updates on my Facebook page which has a much bigger following and more interest in the build. Car is now also running and driving
    14 points
  2. Well not exactly spotted but a get together with a few Manta mates for a Sunday morning coffee. First time we have properly met up since October last year.
    13 points
  3. First time its driven out under its own steam and its first wash
    11 points
  4. 12 Months free Membership has been applied to anyone eligible as per the vote at this years EGM. If anyone has any questions about the free extension, please send me a PM.
    10 points
  5. Well myself, Andy & Neil had a very busy and productive day! hoping the next time I can get over to smash a load more off the list!
    10 points
  6. Some of may know that have been looking for a Manta coupe for 18 months Did get a white hatch (Sticky) but did not feel the love for a hatch,( it was 100% solid) but got sold Have found a Monaco blue GTE in lreland.lt needs a bit of work ( nothing major ?????) Will come with 12 months MOT. Stevie had taken it px on one he sold.I sold the red Manta to him about 5 years ago The only thing that can wrong is that it fail the MOT in a big way Dont think it will Has a bit of light rust on the inner wings, so will paint the inner wings,steering wheel needs a clean ect all picky stuff Will come with original wheels Will have to get it from Northern lreland to Liverpool.once it here will post so photos. Got sent some photos from Stevie Dont think it going to be a major project will post photos of before and after
    9 points
  7. Ive read through this thread for the first time, start to finish, first time seeing pics, what an effort, unreal, bar has been raised, bigtime, dedication, speed, skill, not to say the effort that has gone into creating the thread, top thread, brilliant car, what a story! The club should really get more involved and involve members, eg, an award for best thread, best reunited car, best photography, most helpful member, that kinda thing, it cost nothing, just a bit of thinking! Something facebook couldnt offer. The effort and dedication Andy has put into his build threads has basically made some of us look like lazy good for nothing.........
    9 points
  8. I use both FB and the forum. I feel the forum information is a lot more in depth. Some threads are like As close as you'll get to a manual on how to restore a manta. Im cracking on with mine now and tbh couldn't have done it without looking through some of the build threads in this forum. Myself and others appreciate the time it takes to post pictures and write all the tasks out. Car looks amazing Andrew. It's a credit to the work that you've put in.
    9 points
  9. Always better on here. Facebook is a quick shot gone tomorrow kind of place. Here, it’s engraved a bit deeper.
    9 points
  10. Not the white exclusive, but l am 99% shaw of getting a Monaco blue exclusive Its about 50 miles from Belfast Needs no welding and never been welded ( very rear indeed) l will be owner number 3
    8 points
  11. Wheels refurbed and built back up just require sealing then tyres can go on once the sealer is cured
    8 points
  12. No updated for a while but I've been getting stuff done. Got the front end stripped and painted. I used bonda primer as on it 1st. It's a epoxy based paint with added zinc but doesn't use an activator so there's no waste if you put too much in the gun. You can also paint it with a bush, Ideal for inner sills etc. Sounds like decent stuff and it sprayed on easy. Next I coated it with 2 part high build primer then knocked it back with a block and some 120 or 180 grit wet n dry. I decided to got for polar white 2 pack paint. The spaying didn't go as well as I'd hoped. I did have an orange peel effect (I am a beginner). After some research and some messing around it looks like the air pressure was too low. I knocked it back with 1500 then polished it and it looks decent now I made a start with the passenger side sill area. I did the inner part from the rear seat area. It's nice to compare this are to what I started with
    7 points
  13. Slow start to the rebuild. Got the old girl fired up and running though. Nice smooth engine and the auto box working good. Starting to to pull parts together that I will need, Looking for a good drivers wing and a roof panel. Would take a roof panel either with or without sunroof. If anyone knows of any please let me know.
    7 points
  14. Some time ago I posted some news, had some days a low profile on this forum. All the valves are lapped and fitted. Also the stemseals. Because the original stemseals are not available anymore I fitted a size that are almost identical: As usually I use a plastic foil to protect the stemseal from the sharp edges of the grooves: To push the seals at their place I used a tube without sharp edges that fits on the metal part of the seal: Checked with a mirror if the stemseal is fitted as wanted and yes it looks OK: Before fitting the valve spring with the tool I wanted to know how deep I could press the tool, so I layed an upper valve retainer on the stemseal: Using the tool: All the valves fitted in the head: To be sure what head gasket to fit I measured the combustion chambers, and luckily they are all the same ,some more or less some drops: 52,50CC: After close inspection of the bearings of the crankshaft I noticed one half bearing with an imperfection so I'm going to fit new bearings. My local parts-shop delivered last year those bearings but yet not anymore. Looked at the internet and found a set on a well known website: The Opel Project! Andy known as "611" on this forum sold me the set of bearings, so thanks Andy 👍 After some calculating I ordered today the head gasket (reinforced) at Risse, again waiting. Stay safe, Herman
    7 points
  15. Some time ago I posted something on this topic. Didn't do that much but more thinking & improvising...First problem: The oil pump gears! Opened the Risse Oil Pump and noticed the gears are not in a good condition. Never had any problems with the oil pressure but you can see why I was surprised: They look worn and the clearance was also a bit too much. I am not a fan of those big oil pumps cause a standard pump gives enough oil as long it is in good condition. I have another set of gears but looking for new ones... Fitted the chain guides on the engine block and also a new oil seal in the timing house: The engine ready to fit the timing house: Timing house & water pump fitted: Looks like a normal CIH: Hmm, think not: With the head on the engine I checked the valve clearance again, and I had a lot of work to set them. Had to mix a lot of measurments (and shims) to end that I have three valves that are too tiny so those shims need to be replaced... Did this some time ago with the head before fitting on the engine...Think I replaced those cams 6 times, why not! Last Friday I bitten my dental filling in pieces so after more than a week I can visit my dentist next tuesday. The pain is killing me but now I'm going to drink a beer! Have all a nice weekend and stay safe!
    6 points
  16. Tyres fitted and wheels fitted back on the car 😎 waiting for the stickers to come then I can give it a few coats of wax. Few issues still to work through. Battery light not going out, reverse lights not working and a few other bits but I'm on the home straight with it 🙌 camera is knackered on my phone so keeps making the car look pink. All oils replaced again. Used a cheap one as flush.
    6 points
  17. Broken earth wire sourched at back of switch, hard to see with dash clocks in place, easy fix, i hope! Glad i seen it, just one of those things could have let go anytime. Thought id update the thread as so many ask for help with an issue, and theres no happy or horrible ending.
    6 points
  18. Following the build on fb as well but this is a great build to keep a record of here too if it’s not too much hassle. There’s still a lot of views still on this site if the built-in counter has any credibility but it hasn’t had a widespread culture of ‘likes’ for posts. Fb is for the now, a post has a life of, what, a week? Have tried searching fb for older info & it ain’t fun but I totally get that’s where the people are even if much of the rest of the fb noise is maddening 🤪 Cool build btw! 👌
    6 points
  19. A parcel arrived some days ago, was informed with an émail and I thought it would be the set of bearings of Andy. But no it was a parcel of Risse, Germany: Inside the 1,5 mm headgasket and a baffle plate: Some think why the baffle plate? It is easy made but the one of Risse is rather cheap and I can make a template of it. Cleaned the gearbox and fitting new oil seals: Grts, Herman
    6 points
  20. Valve clearance is adjusted. Not the most popular job but needs to be done. I was afraid cause of the valve lapping the adjustment could be changed and it did. Before I stripped the cams etc. I measured the clearance and fitted everyting in plastic numbered cups. After refitting everything two valves were too tight, they must have 0,15-0,20mm clearance. There were a few with 0,20 so I measured those shims and after a few hours and refitting/measuring this job was done. I don't have a set of shims so I'm happy I didn't had to order new ones @ Risse. Remember I had to do this with those fantastic Jaguar straight six engines that we had in the CVRT's. The tappets and shims looked the same. Picture of the head with cams: Some will notice I have to remove the cams again before fitting the head on the engine, but this work of patience is done. Have all a nice Sunday
    6 points
  21. Hello everyone, and thanks for accepting my membership. I bought this very nice 1971 Manta 1.6S in 2019. This is a rust free low mileage car (36k miles - 59k Km). It spent the first half of its life in Italy before coming to the UK in the 1990s. I imagine it may be known to the club. I love this car. I have always wanted one since the 70s and will ensure its continuing careful preservation in standard form. I may fit some alternative period option Rallye wheels but that will probably be all. Any other slight modifications will be fully and harmlessly reversible. I served my apprenticeship in Vauxhall engineering in Luton in the early 80s and have a small collection of rare 60s and 70s Vauxhalls also including two rare Viva HB GTs, a very early prototype Firenza (the world's oldest known Firenza) and two very rare VX series 490s. I'm seeking advice about obtaining a club valuation for my Manta for insurance purposes. I have tried to contact admin and have requested membership of the club Facebook page but I'm aware the Manta club will be volunteer run and that requests may take some time. Can anyone assist in pointing me in the right direction for a club valuation? I live in Shropshire and have family near Chepstow on the South Wales / Gloucestershire border, if valuations are done by regional club representatives. Many thanks, Colin
    6 points
  22. Not technically a spot but I did wonder if my 150 odd mile round trip to collect a great condition bonnet from west London (thanks again @monaco ray ) would appear on here as there were a fair few looking. Maybe they were looking at the old bonnet! 😬 Anyway, in case anyone is wondering a bonnet will fit in the back of a hatch... just 😎
    5 points
  23. It's got to be one of. Can't wait to get out and about in it and hopfully it will be at VBOA sywell if it goes ahead 🤞
    5 points
  24. I had those on my first Manta in the eighties. 100% sure they were Irmscher, but I bought them in Germany while I was stationed over there: This is from an Irmscher catalogue that I had from an Opel dealer in Germany: As you can see there were two sizes of those round arches, but later catalogues didn't show that much Manta parts in favor to the Calibra
    5 points
  25. Pics of the new pistons/rods: My fingers hurt a bit cause of fitting those C-clips. Close pic of a piston top: Putting them in the engine took some time, those bottom oil rings have very tiny rings and wanted not to break them. The pistons in the engine: Began with cleaning the timing cover, wanted to pull out the oil seal as usually with a screwdriver but this one didn't flip out. So I took a hammer and a tool to beat it out from the inside and no I only bended the lips. Looks like it is glued? Going to grind it open with a dremel, tomorrow...
    5 points
  26. The car looks great! Please keep posting over here, I'v got no FB account. When I say that people look at me as I'v got a strange disease...
    5 points
  27. Agreed with both above. The forum is a long term record of the restoration, FB is for instant updates.
    5 points
  28. Well there out old school style hacksaw blade, screwdriver,mole grips and maximum effort took a hour not too badly corroded back there but very stubborn fought me to the last turn Now for the new with copper slip No more cable ties ☺️
    5 points
  29. Not a mega amount to report but have being doing some bits and still gathering parts for the eventual turbo lump. Sadly The bonnet had taken a whack from a gazebo and ladder I had stored in the ceiling void above the car. with that I’ve had a sore bonnet blasted up on the edges etc to see it’s condition. I’ve had some louvres stamped in and a Louvre panel let in where the original heater box area was to tie it all in and aid as much airflow through as possible for the turbo engine. IMG_4294.MOV To get it running again this summer I’ve installed throttle bodies. The bike carbs have always drove me mad. Waiting on an air box still This is just a stop gap to get it going again. It won’t be show condition this year but hopefully keep her rolling until my circumstances change to allow me to work on her properly for its turbo incarnation.
    4 points
  30. Yes it was but don’t what to jinx it ,Have been looking for about 18 months for the right manta When it lands on my driveway the will be a lot of photos Sorry looks like l highjack this page
    4 points
  31. Rear axle was still standard. But then we go to the Manta i300: In those years Irmscher needed a lot of engines for their bussines so they bought some original Manta-400's. They had those cars without engine/gearbox in their firm and decided to fit the 6 in line in those rolling shells. And the Manta i300 was born. They builded 27 of those cars so this i300 has got the 4 link rear axle and disc brakes cause it was original a "400"...
    4 points
  32. That’s because it’s a Renault lol
    4 points
  33. They certainly do! Very smart indeed! As a matter of interest, what wheels did the i200/i240 have fitted when new? Ronals as per the GTE? Another vote here for keeping posting the updates. Facebook has it's place but build threads aren't one of them.
    4 points
  34. WoW 18 or 22 carat ? 😁
    4 points
  35. Don’t worry. There are a few of us left lurking around haha.
    4 points
  36. One of the 6 flywheel bolts has got a "P" marked on the head. If you compare this bolt with the others you'll see it is a bit different, the thread is shorter. This "P bolt " fits in one flywheel hole, the one that's a bit smaller than the other 5. You can check this with a calliper but when you fit the "P bolt" in the holes you'll find one thats a perfect fit. The reason of this bolt is to keep the flywheel stuck on it's place, cause of the torque it wants to move when you accelerate, change gear etc.
    4 points
  37. Today I r been mostly doin engine work. The flywheel off this engine had an 8in clutch, I tried an old knackered 8.5 and it fit. So I had a go at cleaning it up. I can’t get anywhere at the moment to have it skimmed, but the DA sander did a pretty good job. The lip is so fine you can’t feel it. So that will wear in fine.
    4 points
  38. Excellent updates as always H. Many thanks.
    4 points
  39. I bought a pair of them from " PAST PARTS" a couple oy years ago, don't remember what they cost, but they were not expensive. PAST PARTS.01284750729. The guy I spoke to was called Nigel.
    4 points
  40. Hi julian. Hope you and your family are safe and well 🤞 Adrian Flux are shite. Dont even know why they are on the forum. You'd get a better policy from your local dry cleaners 👍🤣🤣 I wouldn't trust them to insure a wheel barrow.😡
    4 points
  41. I’m not sure who the area rep for Shropshire is, but I’m only in the next area over (staffs and Dale’s) and I can do you a letter headed valuation from the club. I’d need to see the car, but currently I can’t drive. If it’s something you want to arrange with me I’d be more than happy to help you.
    4 points
  42. In 2014 I helped on a topic but some forum members can't open that topic anymore. Uploaded the pics again and gonna try with some copy/past to fit the text again. Chassis Manta/Ascona 400: The other foto shows where the upper links are placed. On the rear you can see the thin sway bar, and also the black stabilisation bar, that one is identical as the original one (size)but the inner is cilindrical. I can give you the dimensions of the upper and lower arms, with some math I can calculate the angle of both, the localisation of the arms on the axle from the centre of the axle... I saw that the brackets look like welded boxes but they have already an angle, I think they are not the same as a commo axle. Length lower links (centre bolt to centre bolt):54cm top links (centre bolt to centre bolt):29.5cm Following measurments are taken where the centre of the link crosses the centre of the bolt: Distance between the lower links (Left-right) chassis side:71cm axle side: 103cm top links chassis side:76.5cm axle side: 65cm Distance between the top of the 19mm bolts of the lower links axle side, measured on the inside left to right: 92mm Pictures in the next post! Mounting of sway bar Other pics: Some measurments: Bump stop above the nose of the diff: Distance between series leg and 400 chassis leg After some calculating I have the next results: Angle of lower link 17.2 degrees Angle of top link: 11.2 degrees If you compare the pictures you can see on sight that the angle of the lower link is bigger than the top link. The centre prop mount, from the centre of the cross to the gearbox-house (the end with the oil-seal)it is 60cm. From the centre of the cross to the centre of the cross rear axle side is 73cm. Retro Power (someone on this forum) gave also some helpfull info: Digging up this topic as I'm doing some "sorting out" regarding a few 400 rear axle related things. Just measuring up on a good straight 400 road car with no known accident history etc so I can make a jig for locating the rear chassis rail sections on the 'shell. This is now done and I have made a few observations, which largely agree with what's above but just thought I'd record them here for posterity and future reference! The upper link brackets appear to be as near as makes no difference 12 degrees outwards from perpendicular with the axle tube. The upper links are 296mm long between centres Lower links are 16 degrees inwards from perpendicular. Lower link brackets on axle are spaced further apart on 400 axle compared to commodore axle Upper link brackets are closer together on 400 than commodore Rear shock absorber mounts are higher up on lower link brackets on 400 compared to commodore. Panhard rod mounting is different between 400 and commodore If someone has got more questions about this topic don't hesitate, Grts, Herman
    4 points
  43. Congratulations Wayne, love a Monaco blue coupe (but I am a bit biased) Love that rear bumper too, works well.
    3 points
  44. Yes, the i240C had 5 stud rims and body kit of a "400":
    3 points
  45. So while paint is drying I’ve fitted an alternator I’ve been given, which I had tested yesterday. New belt too. Also fitted the engine mounts and 1x missing inlet-exhaust manifold bolt. All I’m waiting for now is the new clutch ive ordered, then officially the engine can go in. I will only fit the freshly painted sump when the engine is dangling on the crane ready to go in, same with rocker cover and service items. I’ll fit them when it’s in. Then I can rebuild the carb on the bench at home.
    3 points
  46. Well good old Adrian Flux have done it again, took out the Policy on my Exclusive coupe. Paid the premium and now they refuse to agree the Value, they will agree it at £15000. As everyone on here is aware of the cost of a very nice Exclusive coupe in the event of trying to replace mine if anything happens i feel completely let down and feel i have been miss sold the policy as that sum will not replace my car with one of the same standard. Where do i go from here? and why as a club are we promoting Adrian Flux to our memebers if are constantly getting let down ?
    3 points
  47. Looking very nice Herman. Good to hear the bearing are all ok. Those clips are a bugger and i know what you mean about hurting your fingers 🙂 When i fitted my pistons last time i used a sleeve ring compressor, well worth the money and so easy to use with virtually no chance of any issues with rings using these. http://www.theopelproject.com/fitting-pistons/ Andy
    3 points
  48. Looks amazing with the blitz fabric, please keep updating on here as I'm not on Faceache along with probably a lot of others.
    3 points
  49. The ones i no hunt down all the blokes and women having affairs and peedos 🤠
    3 points
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