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Showing content with the highest reputation since 26/06/09 in all areas

  1. 16 points
    It's been a few weeks since the updates but the car passed the MOT with no advisories and the new owner came and collected it. Job done.. Compounded, cleaned, dash sorted, wiring tidied up, leaks fixed, new water pump, battery. centres painted and blitz filled Proper graphics ordered from the club shop, much better than ebay rubbish. Perfect to originals, the best graphics I have applied, no bubbles, great adhesive on the graphics, backing easy to remove I even managed to put the front blitz on without creasing it! Never been able to that before! A nice sunset picture All done NEXT MANTA PLEASE THE END
  2. 14 points
    Whooppee Dooo, we're back in one piece. Had a few other bits diddled at the same time, but looking cool again. Thanks again to Dan & Kev for helping me with the bits needed.
  3. 13 points
    Thought I’d share a few pics of my latest mods on the old girl. Bought some brand new daytona check material and had the centres of a pair of leather Escort RS Turbo recaros retrimmed. So much comfier than the GM seats. This past weekend has been spent fitting my new air ride set up which I’m glad to say I’m very happy with. I was sick of being pissed off with my ride height so thought this was the only way to go😎 Has anyone else got air ride? If so I’d like to hear what you think of it...good or bad...
  4. 13 points
    Last mot was around 2 years ago amazing how time flys by Quick fluid check mini service checked the brakes whipped it to local testing station passed with no advisory’s 👍👍 finally got my genuine engelman mirrors and irmsher twins also changed bonnet never felt comfortable with the old 1 with the bonnet catches so put 1 with a metal frame so I could have a proper catch ( still needs a little adjustment and the sticker replacing same with the front air dam will sort that next weekend totally forgot the smiles per gallon 😃
  5. 13 points
    I started this in June 2014. I bought it locally with only two owners and reportedly only 82,000 miles. It certainly drives like it's low mileage. It looked like "there's not that much to do." Don't be fooled, it's a thirty one year old Opel manta, made just before someone had the idea of galvanising the steel body panels and chassis. Thank the Lord it didn't have a sunroof!! I've managed to attach a few pictures of progress but some of them don't want to upload unfortunately.It's had a lot of new panels, the seats reupholstered as standard, the list goes on and on. I've got over 500 hundred pictures of this process so far. There's a couple of shortly after it had been taken back to bare metal and painted. It's an exact match for the original Opel Red. Also, the front suspension and rear axle have both been removed, shot blasted and powder coated. See the picture of the new powerflex polyurethane bushes. I've also put a picture of the recently refurbished petrol tank. It has been pressure washed out, pressure tested, any leaks repaired and all of the breather pipes were removed and replaced. hopefully you'll all get to see this car when it's finished at the OMOC stand at the NEC classic car show. As all manta owners - I live in hope!! Thank you to Adam who took it apart, re fabricated, welded, primed, galvanized, wax oiled, replaced door and window seals, refitted floor sound proofing and put it back together with the panels all perfectly positioned. Thank you also to Simon, who has done the front suspension and back axle. He's limbering up to start on replacing all of the engine/gearbox seals. Good job Aaron Radiators on the petrol tank. Happy new year!!
  6. 13 points
    More work done. It's nearly ready for the bloke we are doing it for to collect. Window glass swapped, central locking motor was hitting the glass so we binned that. Bonnet painted New boot trim and Rad tray made from millboard Bonnet cable/ latch sorted Interior cleaned Front discs and pads, calipers re built Boot light fixed New water pump New battery An Andy rutter tune up All satin trim masked off and painted, mirrors painted Seat repaired Fecking masking tape took some of the millboard surface off, note to self, use chalk Boot tank cover made out of the same stuff Loads of other little jobs sorted, parts collected and fitted Nearly done, thank God
  7. 12 points
    Finally............my date for final spray was pushed on another week, what’s another week to wait in the grand scheme of things? But now for the final push. Monday 15th April the bodyshop starts work back on the Manta, Delivered the Manta to the paint shop first thing this morning, hopefully in a weeks time she will look completely different, doors, bonnet, boot, wings, skirts and bumpers fitted, dash and wiring loom back in, then hopefully the rest of the work will just fall into place quite quickly, don’t want to miss this summer months ahead!
  8. 12 points
    Thanks to everyone that Came along and made the VBOA event such a big success. We wondered how well the event would go and thanks to all the enthusiasm of every club member and guest that attended, it was a great weekend. Special thanks to Shaun Broadbent, Mick Maher, Loobie Meagher, Chris Collier, Simon Peckham and all the others that helped put the show together. We welcome Shaun as the new National meeting organiser.... a baptism of fire! Class winners from this years OMOC Show & Shine. Best A - Tim Rolfe Best B - James Sene (car of the show) Best C - Simon Chapman
  9. 12 points
    Ha! I took that when I was on booking in duty. The legendary moment when Shug turned up with his "Increasingly Solid A project" This has been threatened for as long as I can remember (but at least 2008) and you made it! Excellent, even if it was on a truck. Persevere and you will get there. Great Mantaray for pulling this all together for those that don't FB and are not part of that group. Interesting that in previous years that most of these would have originated here but FB's upload gives the chance to do it as it happens. That debate is already running elsewhere on the forum. Probably the best weekend for variety and content for about 4 years with some fantastic new members ( some of whom have come to us via FB) and new cars. And I'm just talking about our field! Lots of doom-mongers talking about the magazine, Facebook, the decline of the forum but when it comes to the cars and the people just look at what we turned out. If you take a look at the other single make clubs around the site I think you would struggle to find anyone else who fielded so many cars. I think the OMOC is alive and well irrespective of the platform you use to get your Manta fix.
  10. 11 points
    And finally back on the road!! She's back on the road at long last!!
  11. 11 points
    Hi, I have finally got my hands on a Manta, I had always dreamed of getting a white hatchback and here she is. Currently located at a friend's lock up. I hope to have her back on the road and at some shows for next summer. She is still MOT'ed but there are a couple of wee things I want to attend to. Rory
  12. 11 points
    Well after a very long time I have at last got some cash to finish the 400r . Took it out for a wash last weekend after it standing for 3 years . new s/s/ exhaust , bonnet diamonds to fit and a quick paint work blow over , then off to be tuned and some fun to be had . Thanks once again to all the club members for the advise ,parts and words of encouragement with this my first project . Col video-1489597757.mp4
  13. 11 points
    We had a great weekend, some pics: The Missus made some pics with the handy, got to upload them... Herman
  14. 11 points
    After a year of looking out for a car, i finally took the plunge and bought my first Manta for over 25 years. Looks solid overall, but there are a few areas that will need some welding pretty soon. The car is very original and I plan to keep it that way, or at least so it can easily be returned to original.
  15. 11 points
    Ok, I thought that I should start to show you Guys something of my work as I'm sure there are a few of you that don't actually believe that I own a Manta and that I'm just palming the spare parts off for serious cash! If anyone remembers back in the late summer I was very close to selling the car. I even posted it up for sale in the forums and on a well known auction site. After what alcoholics call "a moment of clarity" I decided not to sell and do all the work myself and put the old girl back on the road. I'm pleased that I did. The car has been in my family for 27 years and I have known all but the first two owners. So here we go with a few images to start as she is now and then I will upload a few more "before shots" and a list of what I've done up to now later in an update. I have made a new backboard in 5mm plywood and added extra brackets to keep if firm and secure. I am going to cover the back in sound matting and the boot side in carpet to match the parcel shelf. The Underside. All rust cut out and new metal welded in. All seams have been re-resealed with UPOL seam sealer and then the whole underside has had two complete coats of white stoneguard and then two coats of gloss white. Sill sections have received black stone guard and waxoil underseal. New fuel line posts fitted onto the body and pipes held on with stainless P-Clips. All new flexible fuel hoses and all brake piping will be replaced with copper. Under bonnet has been resprayed. All seams have been re-sealed with UPOL more to follow.......
  16. 11 points
    ENGINES !!!!! ARGHHHHHHHH! Well its been a busy winter in my camp this year! I've had a few issues, and thanks to some of the members its all going good for now! Here’s what has been happening and I hope you enjoy this mega Manta update. ____________________________________________________ I started off the winter on a bit of a downer actually. I was hoping to finish the car to take it away to the Gower for my anniversary in October, but the Engine that I rebuilt just using new seals was still pulling in oil past the seals and down the guides. I was hoping that the cleaned up and rebuilt lump would last a couple of years but unfortunately this wasn’t going to be the case. She ran sweet for about 500 miles, and then started to smoke a little bit on hard acceleration and I knew that the prognosis of this was not going to be good. After about another 100 miles it was smoking on start-up, not lots but enough that I didn’t like it! To top it all off on her last outing the heater matrix decided give out and started to turn the interior into a Swedish sauna with a pinhole in the lower matrix body feeding little wafts of smoke up through the windscreen vents. That my friends was enough!!! I placed her in the garage and stopped to think and sulked a lot! A bit depressed and a bit disheartened I thought that I would put up a parts request on the forum for a good 2.0E engine, also put feelers out for engine rebuild advice of which I got plenty. December came and went, but in January I had a message from @Mantacol asking me if I was still in the market for a good low mileage engine as he had a 58,000 miler out of an exclusive that he had up for grabs. He said it’s been sat for about for a few years, but it was a great engine when he removed it. Colin lives about 200 miles away from me, but it sounded to good to be true a 58,000 miler!!! We settled on a price and then my wife and daughter and I set out for the journey up to north Wales. Colin and his Wife were really lovely and he showed me his/her/their (you will have to inform me on that one Colin) 400R which is really looking the part. I made a frame out of 75mmx75mm timber to hold the engine securely in the trailer for the journey back so it wasn't rolling around. The engine apart from being covered in dirt and crud was all there, complete with inlet and exhaust manifold, injectors, throttle body dizzy, so I knew that is not been messed around with. The sump was off and the bores looked unmarked and clean and shiney like they do after a few miles. On removal of the manifolds there was no evidance oil staining on the exhaust guides or in the inlets. Even engines that have been left for a while can still show evidence of these faults that can indicate worn guides. The first job was to remove the water pump. The water pump had seized up solid , but this didn’t matter as I already had a one to go on that was on my original engine. Although I know this is not good practice it had only done about 600 miles so I thought I would use it. After spraying a can of WD-40 on the bolts I managed to remove them. I’m sure this was the original water pump as these bolts felt like they had never been removed. I always take extra care with these bolts as if you dont you can end up taking the threads out with the bolt! Behind the pump lay corrosion but this soon cleaned off and after I gave the engine a good wash and brush down with white spirit things were starting to look a lot more like it! After the wash and dry out of the engine every thread in the water pump housing was cleaned out. Lucky I had some extended taps to do the threads in the block that run through the front timing casing. I cant recommend doing this enough as the steel bolts corrode quickly against the alloy and create lots of white dust which block the threads up giving false torque readings. It can also restrict the depth that the bolts go in, and in some cases strip threads giving you all sorts of problems with leaking water pumps. After I had bunged everything up it was to work with the grinder with a rotary wire brush on the cast iron only. I love this tool as it cleans the pours of the cast iron and makes it all nice and new looking. After the engine is made dirt free, any threads were cleaned out with the correct tap, and then I masked up and sprayed to match the engine that was to come out of the Manta. While the engine was out I decided that as she had been stood for a while it might be a good shout to give the lifters a once over. And im glad I did. They were solid with tar and only 3 of them had any movement in the head of the lifter at all. It took me nearly 4 hours to disassemble them. The internal piston on most of them was gummed into the lifter so bad that even soaking them in brake cleaner did nothing. Using the air tools to blow through the tiny oil gallery in the side of the lifter helped to work it free. All the lifters were completely stripped, checked and rebuilt and operated as they should. The removal and insertion of the engine was as always very straight forward, but fortunately I managed to get hold of a brand new original GM stamped clutch plate for the GT/E so that went in as well. After I connected every up watered and oiled her, I primed the oil system by using a tool I have made to go into the oil pump drive socket. I place it in a power drill at a moderate speed and keep going until oil starts coming out of the 8th lifter and running down the slope by the oil return pipe at the back of the head. Everything in the engine had already received a coating of oil cam, camchain, crank, bearings, bores Etc. as the sump had been off the engine, and I had removed the cam covers to clean and lube everything. THE START UP She started first time. Ran a little lumpy as they do for about 10 seconds and then ran fine. There was a little smoke coming from the exhaust, but I wasn’t worried at this stage as everything had just been oiled up and this was expected. I got her up to temperature and shut her down and removed a plug and there it was..... Oil. I also had oil in the inlet manifold, quite a lot of it as well. The 2.2 rocker cover looks great, but even after cleaning out the mesh in the rocker cover I was still getting the oil in the inlet manifold and it was sucking down the engine breather pipe. I decided that I will go back to the standard rocker cover as the breather exit is very high, in fact it’s on it's own little box on top of the rocker cover, compared to the 2.2 one which exits from the side of the cover quite low down. After cleaning up and spraying up the standard cover and fitting, I still had this problem. After chatting with @mantasrmehe reminded me to clean out the oil breather gauze in the rocker cover as this condenses the oil. I removed them from both ends of the cover and they looked like they had been baked in tar. Once these had been cleaned and I had cleaned as much oil as possible from the manifold out I had no more oil in the manifold!…… But I still had oily plugs. ARGHH! @H-400 pipes up here and tells me that it’s probably the valve stem oil seals, but first to check out the compression. I had a old compression tester so I screwed it in and each cylinder was making 170PSI, more importantly as David said they were all the same. This was great news as this proves that the bottom end is good so I must be sucking oil down the guides!! AGAIN! At 58,000 miles I dont think the guides should be that worn. There was hardly any sludge in the engine or around the top of the head, so taking onboard all the advice I have been given I surmised (and prayed) that it must just be the valve stem seals. I made a tool to compress the valve spring using a old rocker. I had to cut this out with a 1mm disk cutter blade as these little suckers are very hard. With the piston up to near TDC and 2M of clean braided ratchet strap cable poked down the plug hole, I backed off the rockers on number 1 and brought the engine up towards TDC until I could feel resistance. I proceeded to remove the inlet valve using my tool and once the collets had been removed and the spring out, I could gain access to the seal. I gently prised the seal off with a flat blade screwdriver and removed it and it was like concrete. The “rubber” was as hard a a Bic biro pen. The seal you could waggle on the stem where it had shrunk due to no oil and lack of use. If you look at the image of the two seals together you can see the size difference of the inner hole. Although the stem fitting hole on the new one is smaller the inner hole on the new seal is the correct size as it slips down the valve nicely. The seal did not look worn or misshaped but it had just dried out. At this point I could have jumped for joy, as this must be the issue. After chatting with Herman I wanted to get hold of the Victor Reinz style seals with a spring around the stem hole. These seals are far superior to the standard ones as they also incorporate a metal body. Unfortunately the only place to get them from is Germany, so I waited a week for them to arrive. New exhaust seals were also ordered as the old ones had stretched and were slipping up and the valve stem. Replacement of the seals went like a dream. But before I ran the nice new seals down the valves and chaffed them up on the sharp edges I made some seal protectors using heat shrink tubing over the valves as a sleeve was not sent with the seals. These tubes slip nicely off the valve after the seal has been placed on the guide. Just for reference my method for the exhaust guide seal replacement is : First, clean everything. (1) Turn the Rotorcap upside down and fill with oil and put it on. (2) Place on the valve and spring and spring retainer cap and shroud (3) Compress the spring (4) Oil your valve stem and place on your seal protector (5) carefully place the seal over the seal protector and push it virtually to the end of the protector. (6) lift the seal protector slightly until the seal groove is uncovered (7) Gently push the seal off the end of the protector into the groove using something like a WD-40 red tube. You may have to wiggle the spring retainer cap slightly. (8) Pop the collets back in (9) gently unscrew the rocker, making sure everything is nicely in place. This I found is the best way. Once everything has been reassembled and valve adjustments made I started her up ran her, and although I didn’t have any oil any more, my plugs were a little sooty. After testing the ECU temperature sensor (that checked out OK) I found that the previous owner of air flow meter had turned the airscrew right in. I plugged in a Gunson’s Colortune into number 1 plug and turned the air mixture screw out ¼ of a turn at a time and after 1 whole turn out the Colortune went blue. This is now what my plugs look like ! All 4 of them. No oil, and all the perfect colour. So I figure the moral of this update is this. Without this club and this forum I would have been lost. I wouldn’t have had a replacement engine, and I wouldn't have had the help and support to put this engine back into first class working order. So thanks go to Mantacol for the engine (Cheers buddy I owe you one) H-400 & mantasrme for the technical reference / guidance and encouragement Next update making a boot carpet for a coupe!
  17. 11 points
    Not quite finished.... but enough to get to Market Harborough yesterday. I've done 500 miles in 48 hours and really drives great....really likes petrol stations......
  18. 11 points
  19. 11 points
    I pay for my membership and haven't been to Billing since 2014 and even then I never had any BBQ. My membership helps pay for it but I don't expect to get cheap/free food, but if it helps to get new members to join then I am glad to give up my share. I joined the club for the marquee of car and variants to aid in it's upkeep and everything that comes with it is a bonus. Doesn't matter what you do in membership people will moan. The web membership was originally setup for overseas enthusiasts that wouldn't be making the shows, (correct me if I am wrong), but people in this country don't go to the shows etc. so I can see why they don't want to pay for others to show their vehicles. The OMOC have to have liability insurance for you to show your car under the OMOC banner. I don't do much in the way of shows but will still pay the £25/year as I want to support the club as much as possible. I do agree with you that the committee members and area reps job's are thankless and very time consuming, and there is a lot of head banging trying to sort things out for members to turn up and take the glory/prizes etc. that the staff have helped to achieve. I easily save well over the £25 membership price due to being a member as I get discount from other members and I have a vast array of friends with knowledge who are willing to help other members.
  20. 11 points
  21. 11 points
  22. 11 points
    Collecting at weekend but heres a preview the paint shop sent me
  23. 11 points
    Thanks Kev! Well after waiting nearly 6 months to get my engine crane back Ive given in and bought another! Never lend out tools.... Managed to get the engine in on my own though, only chipped a wee bit off paint but it easily touched up. Glad to finally have it in! When I get back to it Ill be finishing the wiring, then onto fuel lines then exhaust so I can fire it up! Looking forward to that day!
  24. 11 points
    Id like to say a great big thank you to Kenny Dock and his mate, because of him the car has been recovered and is in. police custody so should have it back soon.thanks to the great response to everyone on here its nice to now people care.
  25. 10 points
    If you've been in the Manta club for a while you may remember a new shell I bought back in 1989 and was always intending to use on my Manta in the UK. Well, things change and I moved over to the US in 1992 and put the shell in storage along with our two Mantas. The shell had a rough time in storage and included low points like being dropped nose first off a fork lift and being stored in a wet barn. In 2002 we spent a year in the UK and I noticed how the shell was beginning to deteriorate, so when we moved back to the US in 2003 I brought it back with me. Shell being unloaded in the US - only 200kg like this! I spent a few hours here and there cleaning the shell, but at least it wasn't getting any worse in the dry California weather. We'd bought a bright orange Manta over here in 1998 and it really wasn't in brilliant condition, having lived most of its live in Venice, California. The salty sea air had taken its toll but it was legal in the US and that made it one of about 25 in the country. Yes, you take what you can find! We were intending to restore it, but we had so much fun driving it every day that we ended up improving it as we drove, slowly making a tired 1.9N Luxus into a reasonable daily driver with a 2.4, 5-speed gearbox, air conditioning and a nice grey Manta Exclusive interior. It really was very orange... In the end, the car's time had come, and in 2012 I decided that I needed to re-shell the car - the old shell could provide a good source of spares. You might think it's easy starting from a new shell, but honestly there's a lot of preparation that goes on. At least I saved having to blast and weld to get a solid shell. First things first was to fix the damage that had been caused in storage, and for that I enlisted a friend of mine, Dennis Gardiner. Dennis is into his Opels and has a stunning Opel GT and has been building an A series for years so it was in good hands. This is how it looks after it's been dropped on its nose After the first pass at straightening Straightened Of course, if it was going to be used over here I needed a left hand drive shell and mine was right hand drive, but I'd been collecting parts for this for years and had both parts of the firewall ready to go. Dennis kindly obliged and you can see the process in the next few pics. Upper firewall, cowl and bonnet supports removed LHD lower firewall fitted Upper firewall in place Cowl ready to weld, then the dash carrier goes in Everything in place - one LHD shell! The list for Dennis just kept expanding as I found other things that needed fixing. One I wanted to do was box the panel between the passenger compartment and boot in, partly for strength and partly to provide a firewall between me and the fuel tank! It was also going to provide the support for the rear headrest brackets, but more of that later. You can see the nice job Dennis made of it. Rear bulkhead boxed in and welded up. We also had fun with the brand new bonnet I'd had shipped from the Netherlands - some Neanderthal had bent one corner and Dennis spent ages getting it right. The new bootlid was similarly curled where it shouldn't be and again Dennis did a nice job. Eventually it was ready to go off to the bodyshop so I put it on some spare suspension parts to make it roll and arranged for pickup. Ready for the bodyshop. The shell was at the bodyshop for about a year because there was so much to do and they had to fit it in around their normal repair business. There was a surprising amount of bodywork to do, partly because the (new) doors ended up not fitting the shell! Apparently this isn't unusual with GM doors, according to the bodyshop, and they always prefer to fit door skins to avoid these sorts of issues. Unfortunately I didn't have this choice as the frames for the doors off the orange car were junk. The end result was that they had to take the hinges off inside the door itself and relocate them up about 10mm to get the door to fit, then reprofile the body line to get everything to line up. There was the odd bit of work on pretty much every panel due to storage dents, but nothing as much fun as the doors. There was a lot of painting to do too. I was very clear that I wanted the whole car to be the same colour, no primer parts left thank you. So they had to paint the inside of the car, the doors, the wheel wells and the underside before they even got round to putting paint on the outside. Eventually it was ready and I must say they did a nice job. The colour is Porsche Arctic Silver which is close to the original Opel L125 but has a much better shine in the sunlight and is way easier to get over here than Opel silver! Returning from the bodyshop OK, that's all for now. I'll post another set of photos shortly. Cheers, Nick
  26. 10 points
    So the last time this car was stripped and welded was back in 2003/04. It’s seen a lot of action and miles all flat out and driven very hard. Life got in the way and I was going to sell up. I decided to stick it in a garage and leave it. I used it without a care in the world for a further two years and put it in a garage as it wouldn’t pass an MOT with the state of the chassis leg on the drivers side, it’s sat untouched since then for three years under a cover. So since then I moved back from Spain, bought my new home and got engaged it’s now the right time to get D114 BCW on the road and showing it the love I showed it 15 years ago when I bought it. Plans are replace the chassis legs, jacking points and wheel well (even if parts are solid there’re being replaced) the boot floor where it meets the back panel looks crusty too - basically all the bits I never did 15 years ago (I was only 15) 😬 i am going to put new doors on it and get a new headlining made for it as this non sunroof one back in the day was a hard find but it’s bloody horrible. And just do bits that annoy me. next couple of year I want an LSD and toying with the idea of englemanns 🤔 don’t know yet. Here todays progress, 1 man - 6 hours
  27. 10 points
    Good morning Manta club Hopefully i should have my Manta A back on the road shortly although i am looking for a new acelarator cable if anybody can help me out I owned a Manta A sr back in the late 70s i could not resist this car when i saw it at auction 3 years ago hoping to have it out for early August Regards Alan
  28. 10 points
    Blimey can't believe i haven't updated this thread since October, where does the time go! Ok so onto the roof . firstly i removed the paint so i could have a good look at the rusted areas, both sides were rotten but only a few spots across the rear of the aperture. I went about cutting out both sides and carefully weld in new sections i decided to drill out the few rust spots across the back and carefully again plug the holes all the time being carefull not to produce to much heat. I managed to dig out the foam/sealer between the roof and cross member and treat with hydrate 80. Now all the corrosion on the car is gone i decided to get the underneath finished before i start on the preperation of the panels to primer. So i decided to use Upol Raptor tintable but firstly sprayed a layer of Upol stonechip, this way i could thin slightly the Raptor to get a more even coat The sections i masked up will be as standard primed and top coat hence why the engine bay/bulk head wasn't coated etc. The engine bay was prepared and painted in 2k, then it was on to preparing both the rear 1/4's, cills and front panel outer sections so i could get these primed Forgot to mention i painted the floor aswell the complete front and rear panels will be prepared and primed once the car is off the spit. Next i will prepare and prime the roof and sort a few bits in side the boot area before dropping the car off the spit.
  29. 10 points
    A few folks have asked me about the replacement Door Glass seals that are now available, and how easy they are to change. The parts are available from East Kent Trim supplies - Manta B Window Glass Seal. If there is enough interest in these, I may look at doing a bulk order from them, so please let me know if you are interested (email me by clicking here - Send Email) I did this little job before Billing this year and it took less then an hour to do both sides. I took some pictures as I went along, as I meant to write this up for the forum. The level of skill required is very basic, and only basic tools are required. You will need screwdrivers and a centre-punch and hammer. If you have a door trim removing tool, that makes life a bit easier. Step 1 - Remove the Interior Door handles (2 fasteners), undo the circlip that retains the window winder handle (then go and look for it across the garage floor) and put them in a safe place. Remove all other items attached to the door (speakers, door lock embellisher etc). Undo the retaining clips around the outside edge of the door card and remove the door card by lifting upwards slightly. (Pic 1). You can see that the original felt backing on the window strip is well past its best - cracking, mouldy and brittle, (Pic 2). Step 2 - The Rubber Window seal is located within the trim strip. On the Manta B, this is chrome effect and on the facelift B, this is black. They are aluminium, so be careful not to bend or mis-shape them when handling, as they are soft. Using a large bladed Flathead screwdriver, gently prise the retaining trim strip off the top of the door, (Pic 3 and Pic 4). NOTE - Withdraw the trim strip carefully, as it fits underneath the mirror housing quite tightly. It is easy to bend the trim at this point, so be careful! Step 3 - On your work bench, you will see that the rubber seal is held in place within the aluminium trim strip by a series of punches in the metal that grip the rubber. You will need to gently open these up. I used a flat bladed knife to slide underneath the aluminium just enough to release the grip and not alter the shape of the trim strip too much, (Pic 5). Step 4 - Remove the old rubber seal, depending on how much you opened up the "U channel" you may have to pull it out down the length of the trim piece. You can see the profile of the old and new rubber Seals in Pic 6. Step 5 - Measure the new rubber seal against the one you have removed and cut to the desired length, (Pic 7). They are not supplied to the correct measurements. You may also need to add the necessary profile to the leading edge, as this has a slight cut away to allow for the shape of the retaining trim, (Pic 8). Step 6 - Slide the new rubber seal in to place. Using a centre punch, gently tap the original retaining punches back in, so that the rubber seal is held firmly. Do not distort the trim piece when doing this. I found it useful to position a shim of wood within the U channel to give some support when doing this, (Pic 9, Pic 10). Step 7 - Now that the rubber seal is correctly fitted, you just need to ensure that the retaining clips within the U channel are in the right place (Pic 11). They should be evenly located along the length of the trim strip to make sure it is held in place correctly. Once this is done you can push the trim back into place, remembering to be careful at the front edge, around the mirror housing. Line it up and gently tap it back onto the door skin. Refit the door card and interior trim pieces and that' one side done! Repeat on the other side and you will have leak free doors!
  30. 10 points
    Hi all, so excited to be on here and say I have a Manta. my dad, who is no longer with us, had a bronze Berlinetta sr coupe from 1978-1994 and when it went I vowed one day to have one of my own. his reg was UEP 14S by the way - don't know if it still lives? But here is my SR hatch I picked up last weekend, did 100 mile journey no problem at all with its 5-Speed conversion. she doesn't have any history but has clearly been restored at some point - does anyone know anything?
  31. 10 points
    I bought EJO back in May of 2012 (I think, might have been 2013) from a deceased estate. The story goes that it was bought new from Pedestal Garages in High Wycombe by a doctor who eventually retired to Devon taking the Manta and an Austin Healey Sprite although his final daily drive was a BMW 1 Series. Long story short, followinh his death his brtother retained the low mileage BMW and disposed of the other two cars to a chap in Devon. From what I can gather he kept the Austin Healey himself, MOT'd and flipped the Manta. It was advertised on eBay for about a grand which was, back then, too much money, I think it was re advertised at about 750 just as I was coming back from a long weekend in Cornwall with the family and, as it was not far off the journey home, just going for a look wasn't going to hurt anybody was it? Unusually it was ordered with no radio so it had the cubby hole storage tray in place of the unit. The only thing he did very wisely spend his money on was Ziebart rust protection. As a result the car had survived better that most, it had had some previous welding on the foot well boxes that was better than MOT standard and some repairs to the rear wheel arch. It has had quite a bit of good local repair so it was obviously invested in and cared for. There was no history (all chucked out when the house was cleared) but he had spent money on the body so I don't think it wouldn't have wanted for scheduled maintenance in its life. I am guessing that as he got older his aim became less accurate because it had a clunk in the back, the front valence was hit and the front bumper bent. The car was finally laid up and became tired and looked shabby- this didn't help sell it in the ads. What I found was a car that drove very tight with light controls and "all there" despite its state. They say that you get the customer on the test drive so a deal was done (650 I think?) and me and Dave drove down the following weekend and drove it back. When I bought it, it had a new MOT, new battery and 4 new budget tyres, probably to get it to pass, but needed some care and detailing. Jobs included:- Some entertainment- I fitted a period Clarion radio cassette. The front valence was rotten and accident damaged so I replaced that and tidied up the original wings so I could refit them. The front inner wings and the nose cone around the headlamps were holed so they were cut and welded. I also painted and fitted a chin spoiler The rear bumper frame was changed and I did the best job I could to hit the damaged rear panel straight and repainted it The ATS wheels were sandblasted and repainted and, apart from a massive clean, an oil change and general check over I drove it around for the show season that year. It took a year off and then appeared at the Bristol classic car show in 2015. It drives like a good low mileage original Manta should and has survived very well probably due in part to the fact that's its a pre facelift hatch. In the summer it was brilliant fun Fast forward to now and a change of circumstances means that I will no longer have a company car on January 3rd. I play bass guitar in a band and my "fleet" consists of a Manta Coupe, an Ascona saloon and a Saab 9-3 convertible (which in the wife's really). I didn't want to go out an spend loads on another car in the hope that my next job might have a company car so the only thing I own that I can possibly get my band gear in is the SR hatch which lead me to thinking, "I wonder if you can use a 36 year old car as a practical daily drive in the winter?" Well, an MOT and 120 quids worth of road tax later, and I'm going to find out! After 1 week those little things that didn't matter for the odd potter in the summer become annoying or downright uncomfortable. First off, the fuel gauge never work in the bottom half of the tank, fine in the summer but making multiple journeys you lose track and I didn't fancy filling up from a can on the motorway in the pitch dark so a spare sender was fitted to correct that. Next job was the tailgate struts. A new set has been acquired from SGS to stop my brains being bashed out. Two litres of anti-freeze (oil change still to do) and both headlamps overhauled. They are as good as you are probably going to get an a 36 year old car (lighting has come a long way) but I have secured a set of Hella Comet 500 Driving lamps to boost the candles at the front. Another important job is the heater. I don't thin I had ever noticed that it didn't work but you do when its 4 degrees outside! The matrix is good, still need to find out what is going on there. I will also be fitting a set of seat heaters to supplement the weedy heater anyway. Lastly, so far, I have fitted an ice warning lamp that illuminates when the temp drops to below 4 degrees. For now the lamps, heater, seats and ice alert complete my "winter pack" to make it a more comfy place to be in January. Regards the tatty cosmetics, I know that the bubbling front wings and the rusty rear wheel arch will deteriorate very quickly living in the wet, but I had planned to weld and replace anyway so that will force my hand in the summer. As bought, dirty, nasty wheels, black valence (50% plastic padding) At Billing that year, the different shades of paint look at their worst here but its clean, refurbed wheels, valence and back in caring hands Various bits I will keep you updated with how I get on.........
  32. 10 points
    Here we go again. A good rolling shell found. Better get started.
  33. 10 points
    The car arrived safely today and after unloading it got a good blast with the steam cleaner to remove years of grime that had built up
  34. 10 points
    Part way through setting up the club stand.
  35. 10 points
    Will add more pics as wi gang along as wi stand now after approx. 36hrs on motor.
  36. 10 points
  37. 10 points
    I've had a lovely Saturday afternoon out picking up the next project, a very original 1800 Berlinetta hatchback in anthracite. It was on ebay a couple of weeks ago and thanks to the advent of 4G internet in Swansea I was able to win it while still in the pub. First impressions are good, she's actually in better shape than I was expecting. The previous owner bought the car ten days before I was born in '87, I'm only the 3rd owner. A reasonably comprehensive resto was done in the early '00s, including new front wings, full sills and a respray. Sadly about ten years ago the fuel tank spring a leak and that was that. Lucky for me I just happen to have a spare tank lying around The chassis rails, jacking points, rear arches and sills are all excellent. I haven't had a proper poke around yet but I can't see much that would prevent it from getting an MOT. Just needs a full service and some filler in the nose cone for now then I'll get her running and off for an MOT. Who knows, I may even make it to Billing in a Manta this year!
  38. 10 points
    All the underneath of the car is now stripped and ready for blasting. The redundant brackets have been removed and the spare wheel well cut out and prepped for the battery tray I want to match the other side so I will be welding in a piece of boot floor into the hole and the battery tray will be placed on top of that. I wanted to do a proper account of how I convert Jag MK2 rear hubs to use on my manta for my records as well as anyone looking at doing the same Here we go Take one manky Jag hub The trouble is getting the studs out as they are screwed in. just using a pair of pipe grips didn't work so I resorted to drilling out the middle of the back of the stud Place the hub into vice as shown Normally I only use Presto or Dormer drills but this drill from lidl ( shhhhhhhhhh ) worked so well I'm getting some more! Use a slightly bigger drill and then knock into the middle the part of the stud that's been peened over. Then get a big set of Stilsons and turn the stud anti clockwise ( so press down on the stud if it's still orientated in the vice the same way from drilling the studs) Turn turn turn and out we come Here you can see why they wouldn't just smack out! .................. Now over to the drill press We want to install longer better studs and the studs used on the rear are the large spline ones 14.3 mm @63mm long. The shorter studs are the front ones for the aluminium hubs and are 13.1 mm with a short spline The hole in the hub is around 11mm but it's not just as easy as drilling to 14mm and pulling a stud in as the back of the hub need a flat area square to the face for the stud to sit. So place hub onto drill press table and make sure its all level in relationship to each part. bolt down and drill out to 12mm, then 13mm using plenty of cutting oil Then this counter bore drill comes into play, it has a bottom bore of 13 mm that fits into the 13mm hole you drill but has a top drill of 20mm to cut a flat area for the stud to sit into Turn the hub over, locate the centre bore drill and slowly mill the area for the stud to sit at a depth of 2mm it does this Are we done? No.............. Turn the hub back over as we need to drill to 14mm to allow the stud to be placed One hub takes me 3 hours Remove from drill press and take over to the vice, arrange hub as before and square up a stud into the hole Then draw into place Repeat 10 times and we are done Phew!
  39. 9 points
    Well, as I said the Manta's been certified, and in fact it's been certified for over a year now. The car was with my friend Preston in Orange County for around four months until we were in a position to get it back. Since then it's been parked in the garage and pretty much untouched other than a couple of trips around the area where we live, I hurt my back while moving and I've not really been up to doing much. Slowly getting it off the transporter without grounding Back with the rest of the fleet All that fuss for this sticker - California certification Actually two labels, notice the white vacuum diagram on the right hand inner wing. The battery's new too - they must have left it connected while it was being stored prior to certification and destroyed it. Sigh. First trip - all of half a mile down to the post office! Present from Santa to keep it clean in the garage One area of the car was still nagging me, though, and that's the centre console. The cassette holders are a nice period feature, but honestly they're totally useless nowadays. I actually have a few C90 cassettes still at home but not enough to fill all the slots, and besides, I don't have a tape player in the car! There had to be something I could do with it. One idea was to get a cheap Android tablet and fit it into the area vacated by the cassette holders, then I could run Google Maps on it and have a built-in nav system, music player and other useful apps. The only problem with that was an Internet connection and I haven't yet installed a WiFi hot spot in the car... I suppose I could use my iPhone as a mobile hotspot, but at that point I might as well just put the iPhone in the instrument binnacle and use it to nav for me (which is what I do when I need a nav system these days). The next idea was to use a Raspberry Pi - it's a reasonably powerful computer you can hold in the palm of your hand, it's cheap and it has loads of expansion possibilities. I actually went as far as making up a nav system with a nice big touch screen, GPS receiver, the Raspberry Pi, and a set of maps for the US on an SD card and it worked fairly well. The only problems were 1) I still didn't have a WiFi hotspot so I still couldn't do much with it and 2) it was very distracting looking down at the centre console all the time to consult the map. OK, scrap that one too. My final idea was a trip computer, it's a useful toy, it'll fit down in the centre console and you don't have to stare at it all the time. The Monza has one and so do all cars these days, so why not the Manta? Can't be that difficult. I had a BMW trip computer in my stash of parts and initially thought about using that, but BMW wiring and Opel wiring are different enough that it was going to be quite a mess to use, so scratch that. The next idea was a RHD Monza trip computer. My Monzas are LHD and the trip computer's a big sucker, but the RHD ones are completely different for some reason and small enough to fit in the centre console. I'd bought one off Derek Thompson at GM6 in Penzance years ago so it was worth a go. With unusual foresight I had included most of the wiring for a trip computer when I was rewiring the car and so I just had to find all the connectors and run the wires over to the unit and give it a go. Monza trip computer test fit Well it worked, but there were problems. - Firstly, the Monza is a 6-cylinder 3.0 litre car and the Manta's a 4-cylinder 2.4. That was easy enough to fix, the Monza workshop manual showed there was a setting you could make to tell the trip computer it was a 2.0 or 2.2 litre 4-cylinder car and that would work perfectly. Done. - Secondly the speed didn't display correctly, and that was down to different gearing. I have a vehicle speed sensor in the car for the Becker stereo and it calibrates itself to whatever it sees for speed pulses, so all I'd need to do would be to find the right speed sensor to give me the correct number of pulses per revolution. Again, luck was on my side as the sensor I was using (Ascona C) had multiple flavours, and the 8 pulse one would be just what I needed. Quick order to OCP and it was on its way. - Finally the fuel tank was a different size. The Monza is 70 litres and the Manta only 50, so I'd need to do some magic there to convince the trip computer to show the correct range. A twist to this one is that the trip computer really didn't like the Manta's old mechanical instrument voltage regulator. Because of the way the instruments are designed, Opel could get away with the cheap mechanical voltage regulator that switches between zero and battery voltage periodically, making an average of 10V. The trip computer needed to see a voltage referenced against a true constant 10V source, so I had to make a solid state voltage regulator to replace it. Not hard, just fiddly... It was about that time that I stumbled across the Senator B trip computer in a magazine and it looked perfect. The Monza trip computer had a tiny display and buttons on the trip computer itself (quite a stretch from the driver's seat) but the Senator one was almost exactly the same size but had a bigger display and remote operating buttons, so I could place them where it would be easiest to reach. A call to Derek at GM6 and a week later I had one in my hands. Senator B trip computer, luckily similar connections to the Monza one Now these trip computers can be "personalized" by little plug-in modules to work for 4-cylinder Carltons or 6-cylinder Carlton / Senators and unfortunately all Derek had in stock was one from a 6-cylinder car. Oh well, back to that problem again, but this time it was worse because you had to get the module reprogrammed in order to change the personality and I didn't have the means to do it. The local Vauxhall dealer in Reading was a bust - I asked them if they could reprogram them (Vauxhall's workshop manual "TIS" said they could) but they looked at me as though I was from Mars and said they had no idea what I was talking about. Oh well. A bit of Googling landed me a chap who a couple of years ago had built a programmer for them and offered a reprogramming service if you could tell him what personality number you needed. I knew just what I needed so I contacted him. After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing we agreed we had different number lists. I had a list on TIS that said I needed number 31, he said his numbers started at 50, so he offered to reprogram it to the closest number he could find - 55. A while later I had a reprogrammed module in my hand, I connected it up and found that 55 was a later number for a C30NE Senator B. Sigh. I had changed it from being an early 6-cylinder to a later one. I had to do something different. The good thing is that I used to do electronics as a hobby (and even as a job before I switched to software) so I had some options. My first try was to build a divide by 1.5 circuit on the basis that the injection signal was pulsing at 1.5x the number I needed (6 cylinders instead of 4, right) but the problem was that it didn't preserve the widths of the injection pulses, and it was those that were important. If you think about it, the amount of fuel being used is determined by two things - the pressure of the fuel in the rail and the amount of time the injector is open. Since the pressure is constant, it's the amount of time the injector is open that we're measuring in the trip computer, so I actually needed to divide the number of pulses by 1.5 but keep the actual width of the pulses the same so that it divided the amount of fuel measured by 1.5. Trust me, there's no simple electronic circuit to do that! There's a popular little computer you can buy for a few pounds at Amazon (and other places) called an Arduino. It's a lot less powerful than the Raspberry Pi, but it's a great little thing for connecting to motors and switches to make something computer controlled. It's also great for what I needed. I just happened to have the smallest one (the Arduino Nano) in a drawer at home so I started prototyping what I'd need. To make a long story short, a little external circuitry and only 75 lines of C++ code later and I had exactly what I needed. It converted the signal from the ECU from 12V down to 5V, fed that into the Arduino where it did it's divide by 1.5 (preserving the pulse widths and relative frequency) and then converted the output signal back to 12V for the trip computer. The Arduino being tested. The little board closest to the camera generates the test signal that mimics the Motronic ECU Well, that was my fuel signal sorted and I had the different speed sensor swapped in, the only thing left was the fuel level. My first (and badly thought out) attempt was to try to level shift the signal from the fuel tank to make the tank seem more empty than it was, but I got that one so badly wrong I blew up the solid state instrument voltage stabilizer, something I've never been able to do before! Out with the instruments and more soldering... Notice the diagonal crack in the casing? Takes real skill to do this! Back to the drawing board, and I realized I had the ideal solution just staring me in the face - the Arduino; it claimed it could read analog signals (i.e. voltages) and output them too. It really wasn't taxing itself much with the divide by 1.5 routine, so I set to and added the fuel level adjustment into it - that worked out well because it needed a little fudging to match the fuel tank sender to what the book says it should have been producing and that sort of thing is simple in code, just a single line in fact. So another 30 lines of C++ later and I had my fuel level adjustment sorted. The only twist in the tale was that it really couldn't output voltages, instead it output pulses that could be (fairly easily) converted into voltages. I was never good with analog electronics, but the Internet makes everyone a genius, and a couple of integrated circuits later I had exactly what I needed. Back in the car and a short trip round the block and things were looking good, it was time to get the whole lot to fit. I bought some sheet ABS and made up a replacement for the cassette trays. The trip computer fills the entire space, top to bottom, and is set over on the driver's side. The remainder I decided to split with a horizontal shelf, making a cubby for things like glasses (I'm getting old, I have multiple sets) and a space below that was the original tray. I wanted to hide the USB power connector and aux connector out of the way so I put them at the back of the lower shelf. It's fiddly to find, but beautifully hidden out of the way. The trip computer and shelf Centre console modified to take the control buttons The console back in place, if you look carefully you can see the USB in the centre under the shelf I really need to tidy this wiring up! 300 miles to empty... 0.4 gallons per hour at idle I'm lighting everything up inside the car (it's a bit like a disco in there to tell the truth) so the shelves have short strips of LEDs to provide the lighting and I chose a suitable resistor to dim them down. With the shelf being coated in black speaker carpet (both to hide the shiny black ABS plastic and also help hold things in place) the effect is that the light isn't visible except when something is placed in the shelf, just what I wanted. So that's where I am now, car's pretty much sorted. There are still some things to do, like swap the fuel tank (microscopic hole somewhere) and fit a centre arm rest (saw someone else's project on here and want to do the same thing) but now it's down to driving it.
  40. 9 points
    After a faff yesterday with my trailer not being fixed managed to borrow from friends brothers body shop A trouble free day after a 7am set off to dropping the car at it’s short term home at the farm with reasonable weather too. The ascona In a lot better state than the pictures show, All usual areas gone but totally saveable and I’m well pleased. It’s probably the best A series I’ve had so far in an original state. And to boot had a load of panels and spares thrown in for a deal. 4 new wings (5 I have now!) x2 new front bumpers a top front panel another boot lid with a good top half. A rotted out door but with glass all the trims are there an ascona A coupe door full rear quarter(which I’ll sell on to recoup for anyone interested) x4 4 spoke revolutions has a set of lowering springs on it. very happy.
  41. 9 points
    Washer bottle section first Little bit of bending and hammering and came up with this Cleaned up the area before i offered it up Couldn't find anymore pic's of that so jump forward to install of the new inner wing to A post section that i bought from Retro Power, a quality part. I had to fabricate a few more areas before moving onto the wing rail. Every area inside and out is treated to Hydrate 80 After lining it up with the wing etc i left it to over lap by 10 mm. I then welded it from both sides, i always tend to do this for extra strength when needed. Onto the outer light surround Cut away all rotten metal and fabricated a new section Just to recap i started this build back in April so don't think i did all this last night!
  42. 9 points
  43. 9 points
  44. 9 points
  45. 9 points
    Thanks Mantaman for the encouragement and the picture, may well copy that idea in the future, careful masking needed I think. Well before going any further I thought I should get the vax machine out and freshen up the interior Not looking to bad in the photo but was very dirty Much better 10 years since it has been on the road apart from MOT only just up the road, So I decided to stay close to home in case of problems, enjoy some Cornish countryside and the sunshine and take some photos A bit of variety Cornish engine house Yes I am proud, only problem my MANTA was accused of being a F--D CAPRI :angry: Wish it was a special stage
  46. 9 points
    Small up date, all bolts zink coated and suspension all shot blasted..
  47. 9 points
    Ok so its been ages so i been on here so i thought i would just do a quick update. So car has now been painted and the rebuld has begun What do people think?
  48. 9 points
    Fitted early front and rear bumpers,square lights,rear fog and for the first time in 21 years it's got a MOT and back on the road !!! Will try and get some better photos later this week if the weather behaves !!
  49. 9 points
    http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b506/stephenlevin1620/IMG_0123_zps6878f283.jpgaa Some new bits
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