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  1. Saving the original doors, and wings. More welding. 🙄 Dash all built back up. Carpet cleaned and put in, front anti roll bar and drop links fitted, front shocks fitted, door seals on, tread plates on, heater box in, fuel pump setup back on. Another load of nuts, bolts, brackets dropped in for zink plating. wings getting prepped
    11 points
  2. So I believe mate. Can't remember who told me the story 🤔 Managed to squeeze an hour in on the engine tonight. Timing case built up with new gaskets and seals. New timing chain tensioner sourced and new timing cover bolt kit. Timing set, chain and pulley fitted. New head bolts placed in lightly for transporting and fitting the engine in the car. Once engine is mounted ill then torque the head bolts to the correct settings.
    7 points
  3. Another few hours spent on E45 SFK. Rear brakes built up with new cylinders etc... new brake lines ran accross axle and up the length of the car. New hand brake cable fitted, New copper fuel lines fitted.
    6 points
  4. I took the Manta out of winter hibernation today so I could fit the OMOC round window stickers I purchased from the club shop, it was nice and sunny but bitterly cold, the Manta is completely useless even with the small amount of snow she was skating around, how people coped with these back in the 80’s as a daily driver in the winter must have been a nightmare, still, she looks the part, even when there is snow on the ground. Back into hibernation in the garage, CTEK battery conditioner connected up and breathable car cover on 👍 Can’t wait for spring!
    6 points
  5. Not updated my thread for a bit but progress has beeing coming along well. Driver's side inner and outer sill Inner wheel arch repair Finished the bit next to where the master cylinder is Behind master cylinder repair Changed the complete nosecone Few small patches here and there Plus built up the front subframe
    6 points
  6. A little more progress on the shell at owing shop. Stripped all running gear and painted underside. still got the 400 original pickups to weld in for rear axle change, forgot to tell him 😬 Oh well only paint 🤣
    6 points
  7. Thank you mate, I do enjoy restoring these cars particularly this one. Im not a professional car restorer by any means, but i do my best 🙂 Tom got the panels in primer today. Just one more door to repair, a small bit on the boot lid and then prime those and the wings then they will be ready for primer too.
    6 points
  8. Looks like I found a set of pistons, Omega ones 95,50 compression 11/1. And found out the original cranck and conrod bearings of a "400" have the same partnr. as a GT/E. So the original cranckshaft of a "400" is nitrated and can deal with the most power they could make in those days, as mentioned in the original Opel specifications. So the GT/E has got pretty good bearings...
    6 points
  9. Hi Mike, nice pics! Now you know why we painted our tanks white in the winter, those red army guys never saw us. About the handling, we were used to it. As Ian wrote some weight in the boot. This is me some years ago in Germany, will never do it again: Salt kills your car...
    5 points
  10. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    4 points
  11. No problem at all mate. Used it on all my bills. 8mm micro bore copper pipe. Its nice and soft and easy to manipulate into place/shape. Never had an isdue with contamination. I also used codan R9 injection hose. Well your not far wrong Ian, id have actually made more progress but still in process of moving the business premesis which also involves moving tons upon tons of manta stuff to the new place too, and all the cars 🤣 only this one is left at the old unit now so I'm making as much use of the pit as I can before I'm out of here next week. Its going to be a week or 2 before I've got a ramp in the new manta shed 🙂 the brake flex is a braided one from black diamond
    4 points
  12. Probably skinny tyres helped, minors, cortinas, old toyotas and datsuns etc, its funny seeing bmw, merc, drivers loose it now! Not so smart looking now, eh! Absolutely useless, Saying that fwd drivers aint much better, momentum is key, even if it is sideways. Carried three bales of compost or woodchip, cheap in the winter, useful in the summer! I remember passing a bmw, stuck on a 1% gradient, completely sideways in a manta, running 9 inch ats, momentum is key, sideways is still going forward! Usually get at least two to three months of winter driver training a year. Its not as if snow is a shock! Or we wont ever experience it, young drivers should be put through a skid pan, as part of their test, while facebooking, instagramming, putting on makeup, being an influencer? While drifting their BMW like a champion.
    4 points
  13. There has been more progress made on this albeit at an extremely slow rate Rather than bore you all with the details....ill attached some picture of some of the bits its had done to it and how it was when i finally got it back on the road, some of you gave probably seen most of these on facebook if your on there. However although happy I got it alive and back on the road I still had some work to do to it, so once the 'show' season had finished I decided I wanted it all doing properly and stripped it all back down Then I decided I wanted a bit more poke without going redtop.....I saw Andy Abbott had a M52b25 BMW lump for sale and how it was fitted in his commodore 🥰, so now that's its designated powerplant which is going in to be mounted next week Other things I have managed to acquire or source for it are Brand New Fuel Tank, Daytona Interior, Rollcage, Sportex Exhaust system (although I don't think this will be much use with the BMW lump) ive had the dashboard flocked, got a 6 guage speedo unit for it, new fuel lines, cav gsi front brakes and discs from an audi 80 to fit along with many other bits that ive sourced but need to fit. Anyway....plan now is get the old 1.6 lump out, along with the box and 4 speed prop, get the engine mounted, then into bodyshop for strip back and paint, along with the undersealing etc to protect where its been welded. I will try to keep this updated for anyone who is interested but fingers crossed it will be back on the road summer this year depending on how well I get on with the work needed and fitting around the bodyshop and the gent whose fitting the engine for me
    4 points
  14. Should have got a mould off them mate 😎 And tbh I think you would put a lot of the so called 'professionals' to shame 👍👍
    4 points
  15. Work well mate, I prefer Dellorto over Webber's too.p, however not as many people carry the jets etc for tuning, but better carb for progression and road use(drivability ) and IMO they don't go off balance as much. however very tight against the Brake Servo, Master cylinder. You can get away with a short trumpet on Dellorto . Same issue with the XE too, carbs sit about same position as the manifold for the CIH is longer. Other option is relocate the servo & master cylinder forwards to behind the headlight, and use a rod / tube. Very common on MK2 escorts. pic shows the 6 , but the carb sat next to the Servo highlights issue correctly. @ANDY ABBOTT has some pics of his on carbs that might help you too.
    3 points
  16. Hi it’s an exclusive no sunroof as I cut the roof off not just the skin pillars as well did it with good friends Ian goacher and Martin Warner and Jim Murphy I stripped it to a bare shell chassis legs jacking points floors inner outer sills rear arches front wings nose cone rear bottom corner battery tray washer bottle tray lots of welding all done by me car has original engine replacement gearbox 1.8 back axel rebuilt all new suspension spaxs adjustable shocks 40mm front springs 55 mm rears adjustable pan hard rod k&n filter 2/5 ‘’ scorpion stainless steel exhaust and just had full leather and alacantera interior trim seats and door cards front and rear custom parcel shelf rep bbs 15’’ 8x15 wheels 205/5015 tyres bf Goodrich brake lines twin pot calipurs painted in Vauxhall flame red
    3 points
  17. I frequently carried bags of sand and gravel in the boot to give a bit of extra traction in the late 80’s/early 90’s Of course that didn’t do much for the steering though lol
    3 points
  18. Well spotted Herman. These knuckles are off the Saab turbo car originally. They were modded for ap 4 pot calipers but when I tried to run them with my 8" revolutions the caliper was fouling the wheel. So I fitted a 25mm wheel spacer. Then the wheels were rubbing the arches as it was narrow bodied. I swapped this for the calibra caliper and sat this set up to the side. It's ideal for this project as I'm got the 400 kit for this one. Ill get some nice red paint for the calipers before fitting.
    3 points
  19. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    2 points
  20. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    2 points
  21. Looks like o rings and bolts maybe in a bag in the top right corner of the photo
    2 points
  22. Looks to me like you have been slacking off a bit here Andy, what’s the hold up?!
    2 points
  23. got home from work today to a huuuuuge parcel and another 3 from somewhere else err indoors is not happy i turned the front room into santas grotto after xmas.....the two quarters i bought cut from another shell not to worried about the dinks as ime pretty sure they will come right with a little work and when i trim them down can get access to both sides of the panel and with the scarcity of these panels and at £80 the pair ime happy with them
    2 points
  24. If you do have to strip it to sort the issue out here is a diagram of the 240 box that might help. http://www.theopelproject.com/workshop-manual-sections/ Andy
    2 points
  25. After a long break from Mantas and Opels in general I’m back and about to get stuck into another Manta project. I thought it was about time I rejoined the club to see what’s new on the scene. A few of you may remember me from many moons ago when I had a few different Mantas. I’ve settled on buying a Hatch shell (some time ago) and have been in planning mode whilst I sorted out my workshop ready for the build. Anyway, hello to all members new and old and I hope to bump into many of you when I get this project running.😉👍 Paul.
    2 points
  26. Remember a member looking for repair panels not long ago. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293964431750 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293964411628
    2 points
  27. Thank you mate, I do enjoy restoring these cars particularly this one. Im not a professional car restorer by any means, but i do my best 🙂
    2 points
  28. I continue to be really impressed with the quality & speed of restoration at the Abbot Manta factory. Not only that but the willingness to keep up with the pics & info which is invaluable for the forum. 👍
    2 points
  29. They started a new production line of Manta's
    2 points
  30. Notice the order form says 'Opal' 🤣 A bit pointless documents imo, not overly convinced that selling a V5 is a great thing. Had this been a Ford, it would have the FB posts going crazy about it as it allows a car to be stolen and rung - I am no expert on these things and does not seem as easy imo without a VIN tag 🤔
    2 points
  31. It was getting to that point trying to find them at a reasonable price. I eventually found someone selling them for £5 each on FB so I bought 3. If you want to borrow the 3rd one for measurements, just let me know.
    2 points
  32. Omega Pistons mailed me last week. They wrote they had no stock of "400" pistons cause it is made by order. So I mailed to them I want to order a set of pistons, no problem to wait. The guy I had this conversation "Alex" was helpfull and he recognized some names I knew that ordered "400" pistons at Omega. Problem is you need to order 20 pistons and they have to be the same diameter and compression. Am yet waiting for an answer from Holland if they can make a set, think I'v got to inform my insurance I won't drive the "400" for some months... Found out Wiseco makes pistons that fit in the 2.4CIH with cut off 24V head so maybe that can be a solution. Done not a lot on my engine, but you all love to see pictures. The first picture is one of the pistons. The left one is the 2.4CIH , the other is the "400" one. Production OEM one and as you all can see not a big difference. Both pistons have the same pin and while a GSI-GT/E 2 liter CIH needs to warm up and pressed out those pins are floating. Both pins have the same ofset so maybe I can use CIH high compression pistons to mill them... This is a pic of the 16V head, you can all see the water channels are almost identical as the CIH cast iron head: And a pic of the same head with the original head gasket, one side (left side of the car) the water channels are blocked and the other side we can see some holes in the gasket: This is a picture of two head gaskets. The bottom one is the original "400" one and the top one is CIH, looks the CIH gasket blocks the water channels on the other side..: And when I look to the web shop of Risse motorsport their "400" head gasket has on both sides openings for the water channels: Hmm, got to think this over... Another pic of the chain guides: Have a nice weekend, stay healthy Herman
    2 points
  33. Hi all quick question or info regarding 40 twin choke carbs looking at dellorto 40f has any one done carbs on there 20s engine just need some guidance before I take a plunge in buying them. Thanks
    1 point
  34. Hi Adam, I did have the pleasure of knowing your grandfather, I joined the Manta club 30 years ago and often chatted to him at Billing each year he attended, He made an appearance on the club video that was made many years ago talking about his A series, It was a stunning car and an absolute credit to him. I am very sorry to hear the news of his passing, My thoughts are with you at this time. R I P, Dennis.
    1 point
  35. I had nothing but issues with twin webbers on both of my cars. C24ne and c20xe. Went in for setup numourous times and was just nothing but hastle. Lumpy or fast idel, cutting out at junctions leaking fuel, and killing me in the cab with fumes. Also had issues with them boiling my brake fluid so had a heat shield made, boiled the fuel from the heat of the engine so exhaust was wrapped and I fitted a cold air feed all of which still didn't make it run right. I gave up and fitted throttle bodies. Theres pics of my carbs in the projects section under i240r build. Ps my carbs are for sale 🤣🤣
    1 point
  36. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  37. I did my test and passed in snow, the reverse around a corner was a challenge. I had convinced myself after that I had failed and was pretty mad at the examiner for making me do it in the particular location that had had zero traffic . I obviously passed, and the comments of pdf the examiner was quiet amusing at the end. He could not believe I did not give up or hit the Kerb haha
    1 point
  38. How many do you need Jess? I might have a couple of spare ones in the garage.
    1 point
  39. i do have them but its a new mig and was having a play/listening with settings just ordered one now
    1 point
  40. weld blobs in the ear ! horrible feeling as it appears to burn its way and dissapear inside you head never to be seen again !!
    1 point
  41. yes upside down head under a wheel arch also when doing the rear anti rollbar main mount on top of the axle....... a sort of box section tower in this case was previously repaired by a garage and ...told stronger than new now mate...well all the welds correction the rusty steel around the welds had broken and it wasnt for the rollbar being bolted to it woud be dissapeared never to be seen again xxx i will get one of those Ian thanks for that well worth a try... and the best bit is with my beard and shaven head i would look like one of the black widows from any wich way but lose pmsl
    1 point
  42. Big ouch, I can feel that one myself. I assume that you were upside down when this happened? Forgot to mention, I use one of those welding hat/bandana type of things - like this random one from Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDAS-Fire-Fox-Black-Flame-Retardant-Protective-Welding-Bandana-HIGH-QUALITY/253288718680?hash=item3af92f2158:g:6o4AAOSwehZaIVIF I then make sure it mostly covers my ears too. You can still hear the noise of the weld, but it stops the majority of spatter getting in your hair, ears etc. I also wear it when I am grinding too for the same reasons. Hope that helps.
    1 point
  43. It’s coming along very nicely Jess
    1 point
  44. do the gears select ok when the engine is off ? if so then that does suggest that the clutch plate is indeed turning / gripping very slightly when the engine is running. this could be many things dry pilot bearing in end of crank as jess said causing shaft to turn dirty,rusty or otherwise sticky splines causing the disc to stay pressed against the flywheel faulty clutch disc/plate ( warped,bent,lining lifting ,spring ?) faulty pressure plate/ cover ( unlikely) adjustment issue. ( adjust release lever only and THEN cable IF needs be) if its just the splines it may sort itself out with use .likewise if theres any rust on the flywheel or cover it should sort itself out. with the car securely supported or idealy up on a ramp you may be able to see into the clutch with the big grommet removed and confirm that the disc is indeed spining when the clutch is down but BE VERY CAREFULL ! and obvoiusly as mentioned it could be the oil. if the new oil is thinner the input shaft may be able to tun more freely ,hence before it would stay still ? ? maybee ?
    1 point
  45. There’s some good work there Ry. Are you keeping to original colour?
    1 point
  46. if its the same idea as the b there is a spring between the lower bearing and the u/j .this will hold the bearing in and keeps the bearing races inside it firm. the lower bearing has lots of side movement unless held together
    1 point
  47. As the weather is pretty dire outside at the moment, I decided to try to occupy some time by making a start on the covering of the center console with the same Black stretch carpet used in the boot. The new piece ordered arrived a couple of days back, so off we went: First job is to cut a piece big enough (obviously!) and put the excess to one side. I chose to leave loads of overlap to take around the back to make adhesion easier - well that was my thinking, so hopefully it works out that way... Next get yourself to a well ventilated area and clean all of the surfaces with thinners, or something similar: As well as getting rid of any dashboard cleaners etc (that might affect adhesion), you will be amazed at how much muck comes off of something that you had previously thought was clean! Its very easy to overlook the smaller items, in my case the infill panel in front of the handbrake (is that perculiar to the autos?) and the screw covers. So give those a clean too: As I was getting cold in the garage (remember I'm a Southern Softie ), I decided to start with the small bits first, so I could go back in for a warm up. Using your upholstery adhesive, spray the top surface of the part and the back face of the carpet - you have to think about this a little bit, otherwise you end up with a sticky mes to remove with your thinners - dont ask me how I know this After leaving everything for a few minutes place the parts on the carpet and press them together, 'contouring' as required. Then run indoors like a little girl because its cold and leave everything to dry. To be continued, as/when I feel brave enough. Enjoy your weekend everyone - stay safe!
    1 point
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