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  1. Slow start to the rebuild. Got the old girl fired up and running though. Nice smooth engine and the auto box working good. Starting to to pull parts together that I will need, Looking for a good drivers wing and a roof panel. Would take a roof panel either with or without sunroof. If anyone knows of any please let me know.
    6 points
  2. Hello everyone, and thanks for accepting my membership. I bought this very nice 1971 Manta 1.6S in 2019. This is a rust free low mileage car (36k miles - 59k Km). It spent the first half of its life in Italy before coming to the UK in the 1990s. I imagine it may be known to the club. I love this car. I have always wanted one since the 70s and will ensure its continuing careful preservation in standard form. I may fit some alternative period option Rallye wheels but that will probably be all. Any other slight modifications will be fully and harmlessly reversible. I served my apprenticeship in Vauxhall engineering in Luton in the early 80s and have a small collection of rare 60s and 70s Vauxhalls also including two rare Viva HB GTs, a very early prototype Firenza (the world's oldest known Firenza) and two very rare VX series 490s. I'm seeking advice about obtaining a club valuation for my Manta for insurance purposes. I have tried to contact admin and have requested membership of the club Facebook page but I'm aware the Manta club will be volunteer run and that requests may take some time. Can anyone assist in pointing me in the right direction for a club valuation? I live in Shropshire and have family near Chepstow on the South Wales / Gloucestershire border, if valuations are done by regional club representatives. Many thanks, Colin
    6 points
  3. Some time ago I posted some news, had some days a low profile on this forum. All the valves are lapped and fitted. Also the stemseals. Because the original stemseals are not available anymore I fitted a size that are almost identical: As usually I use a plastic foil to protect the stemseal from the sharp edges of the grooves: To push the seals at their place I used a tube without sharp edges that fits on the metal part of the seal: Checked with a mirror if the stemseal is fitted as wanted and yes it looks OK: Before fitting the valve spring with the tool I wanted to know how deep I could press the tool, so I layed an upper valve retainer on the stemseal: Using the tool: All the valves fitted in the head: To be sure what head gasket to fit I measured the combustion chambers, and luckily they are all the same ,some more or less some drops: 52,50CC: After close inspection of the bearings of the crankshaft I noticed one half bearing with an imperfection so I'm going to fit new bearings. My local parts-shop delivered last year those bearings but yet not anymore. Looked at the internet and found a set on a well known website: The Opel Project! Andy known as "611" on this forum sold me the set of bearings, so thanks Andy 👍 After some calculating I ordered today the head gasket (reinforced) at Risse, again waiting. Stay safe, Herman
    6 points
  4. Well there out old school style hacksaw blade, screwdriver,mole grips and maximum effort took a hour not too badly corroded back there but very stubborn fought me to the last turn Now for the new with copper slip No more cable ties ☺️
    5 points
  5. I bought a pair of them from " PAST PARTS" a couple oy years ago, don't remember what they cost, but they were not expensive. PAST PARTS.01284750729. The guy I spoke to was called Nigel.
    4 points
  6. Hi julian. Hope you and your family are safe and well 🤞 Adrian Flux are shite. Dont even know why they are on the forum. You'd get a better policy from your local dry cleaners 👍🤣🤣 I wouldn't trust them to insure a wheel barrow.😡
    4 points
  7. I use a company in the USA called sms auto fabrics. You send a sample and they match it up, I got a beige cloth from them that was 99% identical to the seats in my old ascona I also got black recaro cloth from them the same. Well worth a try. Foam padding wise I have spare foam but you can also cut new stuff to shape if you have the skills.
    4 points
  8. I bet the reserve is set at about £60k...they won't be wanting to lose money on it.
    3 points
  9. Valve clearance is adjusted. Not the most popular job but needs to be done. I was afraid cause of the valve lapping the adjustment could be changed and it did. Before I stripped the cams etc. I measured the clearance and fitted everyting in plastic numbered cups. After refitting everything two valves were too tight, they must have 0,15-0,20mm clearance. There were a few with 0,20 so I measured those shims and after a few hours and refitting/measuring this job was done. I don't have a set of shims so I'm happy I didn't had to order new ones @ Risse. Remember I had to do this with those fantastic Jaguar straight six engines that we had in the CVRT's. The tappets and shims looked the same. Picture of the head with cams: Some will notice I have to remove the cams again before fitting the head on the engine, but this work of patience is done. Have all a nice Sunday
    3 points
  10. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Manta-Rallye-1973/284245371438?hash=item422e582a2e:g:zv4AAOSwfHpgabAj
    3 points
  11. I’m not sure who the area rep for Shropshire is, but I’m only in the next area over (staffs and Dale’s) and I can do you a letter headed valuation from the club. I’d need to see the car, but currently I can’t drive. If it’s something you want to arrange with me I’d be more than happy to help you.
    3 points
  12. The ones i no hunt down all the blokes and women having affairs and peedos 🤠
    3 points
  13. In 2014 I helped on a topic but some forum members can't open that topic anymore. Uploaded the pics again and gonna try with some copy/past to fit the text again. Chassis Manta/Ascona 400: The other foto shows where the upper links are placed. On the rear you can see the thin sway bar, and also the black stabilisation bar, that one is identical as the original one (size)but the inner is cilindrical. I can give you the dimensions of the upper and lower arms, with some math I can calculate the angle of both, the localisation of the arms on the axle from the centre of the axle... I saw that the brackets look like welded boxes but they have already an angle, I think they are not the same as a commo axle. Length lower links (centre bolt to centre bolt):54cm top links (centre bolt to centre bolt):29.5cm Following measurments are taken where the centre of the link crosses the centre of the bolt: Distance between the lower links (Left-right) chassis side:71cm axle side: 103cm top links chassis side:76.5cm axle side: 65cm Distance between the top of the 19mm bolts of the lower links axle side, measured on the inside left to right: 92mm Pictures in the next post! Mounting of sway bar Other pics: Some measurments: Bump stop above the nose of the diff: Distance between series leg and 400 chassis leg After some calculating I have the next results: Angle of lower link 17.2 degrees Angle of top link: 11.2 degrees If you compare the pictures you can see on sight that the angle of the lower link is bigger than the top link. The centre prop mount, from the centre of the cross to the gearbox-house (the end with the oil-seal)it is 60cm. From the centre of the cross to the centre of the cross rear axle side is 73cm. Retro Power (someone on this forum) gave also some helpfull info: Digging up this topic as I'm doing some "sorting out" regarding a few 400 rear axle related things. Just measuring up on a good straight 400 road car with no known accident history etc so I can make a jig for locating the rear chassis rail sections on the 'shell. This is now done and I have made a few observations, which largely agree with what's above but just thought I'd record them here for posterity and future reference! The upper link brackets appear to be as near as makes no difference 12 degrees outwards from perpendicular with the axle tube. The upper links are 296mm long between centres Lower links are 16 degrees inwards from perpendicular. Lower link brackets on axle are spaced further apart on 400 axle compared to commodore axle Upper link brackets are closer together on 400 than commodore Rear shock absorber mounts are higher up on lower link brackets on 400 compared to commodore. Panhard rod mounting is different between 400 and commodore If someone has got more questions about this topic don't hesitate, Grts, Herman
    3 points
  14. I think I've got one on my garage, need to check it's a P2, but if it is you can have it.
    3 points
  15. The scheme with expressed panels would do exactly that. All members get a 10% discount on panels bought from them. They manufacture and store the panels and act as our supplier in effect.
    3 points
  16. Yep, sign of the times with 80s cars, everything has gone up, great if you own one and want to sell it, not so great if you want to buy.
    2 points
  17. NCB should be earned through the driver, not the policy. Like you said Jonathan.
    2 points
  18. No mater how many cars you own you can only drive one at a time, so the NCB should be on them all. It’s a big rip off.
    2 points
  19. I happened upon something last week, was delivered back yesterday - managed to pop down to the garage to see it running extremely sweet. Sounds lovely, 70k auto engine grandad been pottering about in it, then was parked up. Obviously I only want certain bits off the engine 😬😂
    2 points
  20. Thanks. Starting to get a bit nervous now 🥴🥴💩💩 Time for a stella to calm my nerves 🍺🍺🍺🍺🤣
    2 points
  21. Edelschiede have them 6.95 euro's but p&p is 18 euro's might be worth putting a shopping list together of other hard to find spares.
    2 points
  22. Sold for £52000 in 2017 & £57500 in 2019 could this be the first Manta to decrease in value over the last couple of years ? Needs to be in a bigger & better known auction house to reach top price.
    2 points
  23. I'd be surprised if it gets up to that sort of figure TBH, however I suspect it may well not reach it's reserve. £60-65K perhaps?
    2 points
  24. It’s so they can justify charging you more money Julian! Car insurance companies are con-artists in plain site. Some won’t let you use car no claims on vans, some will only recognise NCB on one policy etc etc - out to milk as much money out of customers.
    2 points
  25. Flap off all the paint should reveal the spot welds on the upper and you can release by drilling through
    2 points
  26. Don't worry I don't trust it at all then again I never trust any jack I always use axle stands before getting underneath or removing wheels shame I only used it a few times.
    2 points
  27. Agree to easy to lose your life, You can get a low lift jack of eBay for £109 ,better be safe
    2 points
  28. Welcome to the club, I wondered where that one had gone. I'm not sure who your nearest area rep would be, but any area rep or committee member should be able to do you a valuation. Simon Peckham who's the membership sec and A series registrar would be ideal, although he's some distance from you in Suffolk.
    2 points
  29. Shame there are no better pictures but it looks well in that colour, funny that as a youngster I'd have classed it as grandad gold 😁
    2 points
  30. Hi Colin and welcome to the club Thats a very impressive collection and a lovely looking A series. Values are on the up at the moment and with not many coming on the market very difficult to judge. There is a topic on values which is updated occasionally which may help to give you an idea. Hopefully someone in your area can assist with a valuation.
    2 points
  31. I believe its true, chap managed to locate his old motorbike using a PD.
    2 points
  32. p2e head on eBay not complete though https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-MANTA-VAUXHALL-ASTRA-CIH-ENGINE-CYLINDER-HEAD-ASSEMBLY-VALVES-SPRINGS-/114752552271?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
    2 points
  33. I have heard, if you approach a private detective, they may be able to help...
    2 points
  34. I believe that Expressed panels sell quite a bit of stuff in Europe too, so shipping out worldwide isnt a problem. Good thing is that the club will get a guaranteed discount on any manta parts. They run this scheme for a few other clubs and it seems to work well, the club provide the panels for them to copy and then every member gets the benefit. We get the original panel replaced too, so it’s a good scheme. The only downside is that the panel has to be ‘deconstructed ’ as part of the process they use to make the tooling so is a sacrificial part but small price to pay.
    2 points
  35. Thats a great start, rear panels etc, repair panels are the way to go, im sure our european neighbours will avail of them, well any start is better than a none start!
    2 points
  36. Just as a suggestion, if we share this scheme with European Manta owners, we may get a larger market to sell any new panels...
    2 points
  37. Both cars look stunning, Not biased at all, but i have a Golf R as a daily driver alongside my Exclusive coupe, Awesome cars. Love every minute of driving it.
    2 points
  38. I need a Coupe roof. I did need two but have past the point of no return on one car now. It’s easy to find most manta panels quite cheaply if you’re patient, but after the cost of shipping, stripping, repairing etc. you can easily be hundreds of pounds in. I recently bought a really solid door but it still needed dismantling to treat the rust in the twin-wall construction in the end of the door. I for one would love a reliable source of panels. You could sell to non OMOC members at a slight premium allowing club members to enjoy preferential rates. 😃
    2 points
  39. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  40. Whose the certain member off here who has bought it? Must have some money to pay that amount for it 🥴 Hopefully it stays in the uk🤞
    1 point
  41. At least that's an early one without the huge federal bumpers.
    1 point
  42. I find carbs weird. That 1.8 carb ran a big valve head SRI 130 2.0 engine all the way up to 124hp. Which I think was brilliant. I’m going to get a rebuild kit for the DGV, I’ve another nut and lock washer on the way. 😊
    1 point
  43. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TOLEDO-REAR-WING/113781488275?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D4466a8447fa84f9faa83143bc1530cce%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D113781488275%26itm%3D113781488275%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DTriumph&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A504e42d2-984a-11eb-9688-eacfad36b305|parentrq%3Ab0bf9c401780a77dcce88834fff8dbb6|iid%3A1
    1 point
  44. Sounds like it's lost oil mate. But IMHO Bin it, too dangerous and not worth the risk.
    1 point
  45. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
    1 point
  46. It’s not a colour I’d have gone for back in the day but I’m quite liking the look as is.
    1 point
  47. A series ones were smaller. Same as chevette. Make sure you don’t downgrade your brakes mate.
    1 point
  48. Have they ever given any indication of what price the panels would retail at ?
    1 point
  49. Luckily the rest stayed put, and was finger tight to remove. Lucky. Just need to source a new bolt. then finished drilling the down pipe bolts. Tried heat and stud extractors but they didn’t work. So I drilled and tapped them out.
    1 point
  50. Lapping the valves, the carparts shop gave me that nice tool to use: Why I wanted those 16 valves...
    1 point
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