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  1. Both rear quarter windows fitted with the newly chromed parts. Drivers door runners fitted and no more window rattle 🙂 I now just have the passengers side to do and then the door top and gutter trims to finish polishing and fit. Then its mop and polish both doors ready for the door handles and inside trim and we are all set to go. Still aiming for end of Jan to be back on the road if we have some dry weather for the rest of Jan. Andy
    7 points
  2. Quite a lot done to this over the past few weeks. Most of the welding is now complete, engine stripped, prepped, painted, head ready to go for testing and a light skim. All the black gunky sound deadening removed with heat gun and a scraper to reveal very good floors including the boot, all removable panel prepped and primered ready, doors, side skirts, bonnet, boot. Next stage is to spend a couple hours finishing the welding then, prime and paint the underside and start running the new lines in etc...
    6 points
  3. Strip the motor down,used a wire wheel on a drill.Remove the rust Rub down with 240 grit paper,then go to wet/ dry paper until you get the light lines out Then rub down with 1000 wet/ dry paper,then use a metal polish ( l used Autosol) Finish of with a polishing wheel until you are happy with the end result I finish by sealing it Is will take so time to do dut the results are excellent
    3 points
  4. Don't think anyone will find an ex works manta 400 for anywhere near that price. A genuine road 400 is knocking on 80k for a mint one.
    3 points
  5. Be very careful if you choose to do it this way get some heat on the glass (heater fan) before soldering as you could you can shatter the glass (thermal shock) done a tab fix on the cougar used a special tab adhesive from the states.
    3 points
  6. I used a Senator radiator in the rally car, but you have to cut the “wings” off that hold the standard radiator in place and mount it directly on the back of the front panel. I also had to fabricate a simple bracket for the bottom mount, and use electric fans as it’s a long way from the engine. All good for a competition car, but maybe not a road car. Once you cut the radiator “wings” out there is a lot of space, so you have a lot of choice, but obviously you’ve made a permanent change to the bodyshell. Not sure if you would want to go that far.
    2 points
  7. I took one of my original radiators to a shop that repairs them, asked to fit a thicker core with more cooling ribs. Was no problem, costed me 180€.
    2 points
  8. if the engine earth cable is good(or new) and tightly attached to bare steel all should be well.if it gets faster if you put a jump lead across from engine block to battery neg then the earth cable is not doing its job and you may feel clutch cable getting hot .or the connections at either end of the engine earth cable. at lot of people forget the engine earth when putting an engine in.probably not the case here but worth asking. if we are sure that side of things is ok then its either starter problem engine too tight ignition timing too advanced
    2 points
  9. the largest battery you can fit without any mods is a 100 size .this just fits in the gap perfectly. dont let a supplier give you a 096 tho saying they are the same ! they are taller and will hit the bonnnet. a 100 is the same height and depth as a standard 063 size original battery just longer. BUT theres no reason at all that a standard battery should have any issues turning over a 2 litre engine .unless the engine has been modified with too high compression or theres an issue with the starter itself or cables. usual issue with these cars is the engine earth lead. if thats loose,broken or missing it will turn over slowly.and also burn out the speedo and clutch cables too ! once sorted you should be able to leave car untouched for 2 months easily without any issues.
    2 points
  10. I put a 60ah Battery on the Manta last year and it has been fantastic on a car that doesn't get used every week. I do keep it on a trickle charger now, as standing for long periods without any use will kill a battery quite quickly. After shopping around, I went back to Battery Megastore. who I have used a few times before and they came up trumps again. The Bosch S4004 battery was £65 including Vat and delivery (and it came within 2 days). Price has gone up slightly now but it was much cheaper than local motor factor and half the price of Halfrauds. https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/type-075-bosch-s4004-car-battery-12v-60ah/
    2 points
  11. Nice rust free coupe shell available if anyone needs one. Not something that comes up very often. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185247616893 Had a glass roof and needs a little bit of finishing off in places, but is a very solid car as the rust repair has all been done.
    2 points
  12. Hi Chris, so the problem of the pivot points will be solved when you fit those Eckhard rails. The metal that is used is a lot thicker, but they are not plug & play. I used them also on my GSI but after some grinding and welding they fit nice. Have a look at my topic "New swan neck". Grts, Herman
    2 points
  13. Hi Chris, so you had no welding work on those "swan-necks"? The B1 Manta's were always better than their B2 brothers. Into the swan neck there is another chassis rail with a tube. You can see it on next picture when I restored my swan neck: If there was no tube in it we would deform the rail while turning the big bolt. When I look at your pic it is the left side that points a little up (or forward?). I think this little anomaly won't have an influence but as you I would wanted also to be straight. Before welding I fitted also a long bar in both pivot points and checked the measurements with the other side and the ones you can find on this plan: If the measurements are ok as you wrote above the angle of that tube in the chassis rail will be a little bended (in production?), do you find any signs of a collision?
    2 points
  14. Great efforts by both, i found a wee alloy mini spray gun, must look it up and see what its worth, it was that bad, took a good soak to get the lid off, dont really need it but, thought id give it a go, i do remember using it years ago, and thought it was giving great results! Have it stripped, will build it up again to check before stripping it for bling, bling. Not really into chrome but like the detail, hard graft and effort getting a result, better than the way it was, always messing about with old bmxs, motorbikes, skateboards etc, so learned something, time to get the wet and dry out!
    2 points
  15. Having small knocks and ding’s is natural as is a car which is 40/45 years old Is not a new car out of the Opel dealership The chrome is looking excellent
    2 points
  16. Same process for mine but with the chrome stuff you have to really get it super smooth as any small dents or knocks that you dont get out show up much more once it has been chromed where as just polished up it does not quite show the same. The guy at the chroming place said the people they use would do it on a wheel, using a corse grit, then moving down the grits and then they would use various different cutting compounds until it was super polished. The when they get it back they dip it to remove any polishing compound and then go through the chroming process. I had a couple of bits that looked super smooth to me but once it was chromes you could see a little marking, so must use some good cutting compounds. With the alloy trim i did the same flatting process but before finishing with Autosol i used those 3m Trizac 3000 discs. The only problem with the trim is that over the years its had a few knows and with it not being that thick you cant totally get every knock and mark out so i dotn think it would have been good chromed even if i could have had it done. I think the polishing is the better option. Its the same as painting, the more time you spend on it the better the end results!!
    2 points
  17. I think my attitude is - its getting fixed, whatever is needed effortwise. Its my first car, and I am doing this with my daughter who has shown a massive interest in it, and that's worth it more than the car! I have trusted her with the look of the finished article, so it will have wide arches, big spoiler - etc.. We have the colour decided (San Marino Blue - BMW / Porsche colour). I need to learn how to weld - always wanted to. She thinks the car is very cool. It will just bring extreme joy doing it - I suspect this is true for a lot of people on here with their projects... Then there is engine choice etc - will bring that up in the coming months... I am torn very much but its worth a separate topic. On the weekend I am off to cut / collect a section that should allow me to repair this area - a very kind member of here has what's left of a car that has apparently saved 3-4 other cars in its demise. I really appreciate all your opinions and help - it makes the project a lot more fun for me. Cheers!
    2 points
  18. This is what I did to the wiper motor on one of previous mantas, will be doing this to the manta l have
    2 points
  19. Silver Epoxy, not cheap got mine from Farnells http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=2917615 I also bought these to use with the epoxy, might help. They are pretty strong https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223527499727
    2 points
  20. Hi Ian hope you’re well. We are going to put another axle on it as I remember you and a couple of others mentioned the nosey axle. Hopefully it will start to be on its wheels in a few weeks or so.
    2 points
  21. As a close friend of Vircos, he'd have been elated that the car's been saved and completley overhauled. I do recall the rear axle was in dire need of a rebuild given how noisy it was, but can't remember if it was swapped out. Either way, if it helps any, I can put you guys in contact with the team at Gripper diffs for a good plate style LSD if you wanted to upgrade it. I was lucky enough to pursuade Ian to part company with the 1800 coupe he rescued and got the V5. That car is being dry stored with the premise to be built as a tribute to Mr Virco so seeing his 'Red Rocket' being restored to better than i remember is a fitting tribute to his memory.
    2 points
  22. This is what im running on my A series with lowered suspension. and the tyres are 205 x 50 x 15. I did fold the rear arch lip and you might find on full lock revering sometimes they will catch on the front lower valance, so i had to fold the lip on that up a bit to clear. Depends on how low it is and you probably wont know until you fit the wheels and try.
    2 points
  23. we will see what keith finds out. it shouldnt be a battery issue as a 063 was always sufficiant even on carlton 2.2 engines so a 063,075 or 100 will work. timing easy enough to eliminate if it turns over quick with coil unplugged( hence no ignition to fight against) so its either. engine earth ( my guess)or other connections bad starter ( replace with same ,all cih engines ,best type 2.4 or 6 cyl versions fit too)
    1 point
  24. if i remember correctly there is a fuel filter inside the main carb fuel inlet nut. worth checking that its not bunged up. once you know that is ok and float chamber is filling up correctly then it sounds like a blocked carb passage. also remember that if the air filter housing is removed then you will have an additional air leak due to the vacuum hose for the hot/ cold flap.but that should make a poor idle not a revving issue and as i mentioned.make sure the main jet needle is free to push and return
    1 point
  25. Hi Jonathan I had another look & found the manta page https://www.coolexperts.co.uk/product/opel-manta-ascona-rekord-voyage-55mm-aluminium-radiator/ would have thought with the 70mm + temp & proper kenlowe fan option you’d have decent cooling but there’s not an immediate indication of additional cost for the deep one @H-400 would the 70mm modification here be similar to yours?
    1 point
  26. I had with both my engines the same problem, fitted on the GSI with 2.4 engine the starter of a Omega 2.4/3.0 24v (they are the same on both engines) problem solved. Later after some updates of my "400" engine I cleaned the copper collector and the starter did his work better. But after the latest overhaul of the engine (higher compression etc.) the starter failed again so fitted also a starter of an Omega. Noticed also as Cam in head wrote above the timing (too advanced) had big influence.
    1 point
  27. just out of curiosity.is your car a 1.6 or 2 litre. the 2 litre had the larger radiator ( compared to the smaller one fitted to 1.6) and never had any cooling issues . with an early fixed fan especially but later models with a temp controlled viscous fan can fail causing overheating issues in slow or stationary traffic. ( only applicable to later mantas realy unless you have a viscous water pump / fan assembly fitted to an earlier car)
    1 point
  28. No personal experience but bookmarked this company ages ago https://www.coolexperts.co.uk/motor-vehicles/
    1 point
  29. There is a pair of black door cards for the Manta on Gumtree, in Banbridge, £50, I can’t add link, I’ve tried, thought I would share as I recently seen someone on here requiring a set.
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. Maybe earth is insulated with all that beautiful paintwork. Maybe remove starter and jump it, see what its doing removed. Is there anyway of testing if it is earthing through speeding, clutch cable.
    1 point
  32. Oh how I bet they regret that now 🤣🤣
    1 point
  33. Hi Herman, thank you for your response. There is significant rust in the swan necks and I’m panning to use Eckhards replacement sections to rectify this. There is no sign of any accident repair, however the car did have a very heavy cast iron Chevrolet 2.8 V6 in it when I purchased it. I was wondering the shear weight of thee engine and the rusted swan necks may have caused some distortion. The V6 is now on the scrap pile and a CIH engine is currently being built so weight should not be an issue in the future. I’m pretty sure that I can get better alignment on the pivot bolts when the new swan necks are installed and hope that the bushings will also take up a lit of the difference. To get the V6 into the car the previous owner hacked the front cross member and had the front of the engine sitting on the steering rack. This has worn the top of the our housing of the rack flat. The crossmember can be repaired and strengthened but I’ll probably replace the rack just for my own peace of mind. Thanks again for your reply, Chris.
    1 point
  34. Pretty sure its a piece let in but just not invisibe, rather than an overlap patch. Although its been a while since i looked at the shell in Shauns unit Agree about the roof especially looking at the inner brace it was a none sunroof to start with. But back in the day a sunroof was seen as an upgrade by people
    1 point
  35. Yep, i have gone for that i got it as good as i could, which im happy with. I was more conscious of getting the door handles and rear quarter parts as good as i possibly could as i was paying to get those done, and i only wanted to do it once 🙂
    1 point
  36. Picture of mine attached, not great but give you an idea perhaps
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. Useful tool for diy roll cages.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234018255356?hash=item367c9331fc:g:8SsAAOSwadJgp45v
    1 point
  39. Cant go wrong with welding, just ask for advice, some experience on here, plenty of welding done. I borrowed a welder before buying my own a few yrs back, its a sealey 150 mightymig, impressed so far, had a 380 mig borrowed, far to strong for body repairs. Great way to learn is two strips on the floor, wack the gas on pull the trigger, found really clean steel works best, wire wheeled, a slight rough with a cutting wheel, then sanded with soft sanding pad, the steel is shining, weld seems to penetrate better, with any effort, (skill) nothing to loose, well done on gaining the section you need, crack on!
    1 point
  40. hi. there. if i remember correctly the 1.8 has a supply line from the tank and also a return line too.( i may be wrong 2.0 versions dont have this ) obviously if it worked before then the pipes must be in the right place so what i would do is ...... check that the supply pipe from tank is clear .if you blow in it you should hear bubbling in the tank. connect this to the fuel pump inlet and with a pipe connected to the outlet and safe in a jar you should be able to manually pump the fuel through with the pump in your hand. in a lot of cases the pump will work fine on the car either with or without the spacer but if you have it then i would fit it as it also can help as a heat shield too. so if it works manually but not on the car this would suggest either wrong pump ? or camshaft lobe worn down. ( you should be able to see this through the hole ) lets start with the sbove and seewhat you find. hope this is a little help to you as regards float chamber most varijets have a gauze top above the chamber that you can visually see into.
    1 point
  41. I'll agree with you on that Mike, to me that car wouldn't stand a chance, even in looks against a MANTA 400, but there again that is only the opinion of an 87 year old man!!!!
    1 point
  42. Would be a good idea, as mentioned, give me a buzz if you want to try and get a LSD setup installed, Gripper have a good plate type on offer that's a straight bolt in job bar shimming / setup.
    1 point
  43. I thought they were the same as a ford fitting. Handy as easier to get than if they were just manta specific 🙂
    1 point
  44. That dechroming and polishing must be a labour of love, but it looks bloody good,and quite possibly nicer than chrome. Especially that bit in the door frame! 👌
    1 point
  45. Great work guys and good on you for saving another
    1 point
  46. A mixture of tool is used, heat gun, scraper, grinder with wire wheel in, roloc, da sander with 80 grit paper.
    1 point
  47. Great to see her up and running, fairplay, health to enjoy.
    1 point
  48. You see some £20,000 price tag on some Mantas and think what’s been done If l had the spare cash l whoud happy to pay £25,000 plus for something like this The repair ( going by the photos) is top quality
    1 point
  49. More work done. Great progress today with Dan. Chassis work finshed off, lower rear arch chopped out, cleaned up, inner structure repaired, treated, zink primed. New section let in. Passender A post closing panel rot cut out, patch fabricated, welded in, ground back, treated and zink primered. Lower rear arch rot chopped out, all welds dressed back and more cleaning of the under side done. More parts stripped off the engine and been given a good scrub in the parts cleaning tank. Meanwhile kevs been working away on his manta cossie in the back room 😬
    1 point
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