Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 28/03/20 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Tip of the iceberg, loads done and I will try and get more pictures up. so the block is nearly done (starter motor I bought new isn't for a gte!) so the injectors have all been refurbished, all new quality fuel pipe and clips from Demon Tweeks as cheap ones are no good. Plenum has been media blasted and lacquered. Now all new and ready to roll
  2. 8 points
    Not going to lie, I'm gutted I've got this built so quickly to begin using it and get the engine run in only for this virus to kick off, and be unable to get out on it. We can only hope this is over before the summer and shows can commence. Stay safe everyone and wish members all the best.
  3. 7 points
    This was my very rusty but much loved GTJ now owned and being rebuilt by fullsunian The good times when she looked her best..the car that is . 20 odd years latter.the only good body work was the roof and bonnet sat in my back garden for many years didn't want to scrap it. Some strengthening work needed before one car became two Chassis legs repaird/replaced To be honest I really didn't think anyone would take this on and would end up with the roof cut off and scraped.my hat is off to you fullsunian.
  4. 7 points
    Well it’s been a looooooong time, but not far from getting car back from body shop. They have some snagging points to fix, a bit of the black trim that needs to be painted. Thinking the alloys now need to Dark anthracite with polished rim?
  5. 6 points
    Just to let you all know what I've been doing in isolation over the past day or so! Also to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I'm going to trial these (if I get chance to use the car) and if all OK (I cant see a problem) then I will print them off for £5 per side + postage just to cover materials, & electric while printing they use 6Mtrs of filament each side. You will need your original centre piece (the white bit) as I haven't reverse engineered those bits. The material is TPU. It is a flexible printer filament like a hard rubber so perfect for this job and the layer adhesion is fantastic and very strong! as you can see from my image of it on the car the layer lines can be polished out on the top edge with a hard buff in a Dremel, but I didn't spend a lot of time on my one that's why it looks a little uneven in the image. PM me if you are interested in one or a set.
  6. 5 points
  7. 5 points
  8. 3 points
    @IanMc It's only a cheep one. It's a CTC bizer from ebay I dont think you can buy it any more most important is the V3.0 extruder nossle and heated bed and I use a glass build plate. I also have about 20 years CAD experience which helps with getting designs up and running quickly. Also use good quality media. Especially TPU and ABS the latter of which is used widely in the automotive industry due to its resilience to temperature and UV light.
  9. 3 points
    No new pictures, started the engine without spark-plugs to check if the oil pressure is ok. Did this also before I fitted the engine in the car but got to be sure... Then I asked my son to fit the ignition on the engine and we started the engine without feul but with "start-pilot" just to be sure the ignition is doing his work. The engine came alive so we are happy the engine runs. So tomorrow feul in the tank, activating the pump (on the fuses) to check all the new feul lines for leaks. The exhaust is fitted (hate those rubbers on the midle section) so we can start that engine tomorrow. Am proud of my son, he is 19 and in those Corona-days he takes his responsibilities. He has got to miss his friends and doesn't hang around so that is something I respect. I helped him to fit some Manta things on his 20 year old Opel Corsa, will take pics! Stay healthy, Herman
  10. 3 points
    My wife couldn't find any bud but got this instead.....really not sure about its name .
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Caliper is a little closer to the shock but still plenty of clearance. I’m quite happy with the result anyway. Although if I was to keep these wheels on I think I’d run 10mm spacers on the back as the wheels now look a bit too far in. My new wheels should fill the arches out perfectly.
  13. 2 points
    @Exclusive Opel I like that! Looks like another job for the 3d printer and power flex material! I will keep you all posted and will see how durable they are. If they are any good I might produce some for club members at a very reasonable price.
  14. 2 points
    I made my own (can't remember if the repro one's weren't available or didn't know about them at time) from some thick acrylic. Not perfect looking but functional. As only the top part is seen, that was profiled like the original and polished. The stuff I used is a two colour mixed/ iridescent type used for trophies so thats why it may look a bit weird! Apologies for the rubbish photos.
  15. 2 points
    Here you go Bill. The first 5 images are of the Nearside/Passenger side one. Then I realised that I hadn't fitted the Drivers side one myself, so had to go hunting for it.. Nearside Pt No. 9 287 051 L1 Offside Pt No. 9 287 052 RE I hope that this helps you a little?
  16. 2 points
    Yes I have Jess and my thoughts are: 1) What I have already done has fixed my problem. 2) If it aint broke (anymore), dont fix it. 3) I actually prefer the front of the seat slightly dropped as it helps my sitting position with my dodgy knees 3)You will probably only mess something else up if you start messing about again
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Some work done to the Drivers seat mounting frame this morning to try to overcome/correct my stupid error. I decided to cut the frame right back to down leg of the right hand (as you look from the pedals) pivot point: My thinking was to try to weld another piece of tubing parallel to, and just about 6 mm below the main seat frame - something like this: After welding everything back up straight, it all worked OK: I did think of trying to add some extra weld to that smaller diameter to build it all back up to the same size - but its already very strong and who is going to go looking at that anyway, so didn't bother. Of course there is still a little more weld dressing to do, but that's a job for later. Then it was time to try it in the car: Success! - it all clears the bump in the floor/trans tunnel and there is full movement forward and back. But what about the headroom?!, I hear you cry - the whole reason for doing this in the first place of course. Again success, I now have clearance from 1/4 back on the seat rail, right through to the rearmost seating. My preferred seating position is somewhere between those two points, so all good - very pleased. Now I can make a start on the seat covers for that side... Take care all x
  19. 1 point
    Nankang NS20 215/40/17 front not sure on rears, need to figure out offset and rim width. Hope to squeeze 235 on rear. Tyre shop opposite garage so I can mess about a little with tyres, but been using the following tool. https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-60-14X6.5ET39&wheel2=235-30-17X8ET25&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm
  20. 1 point
    Thinking something along the lines of the attached picture. Sticking to 17” 👍 even though my gut is telling me could carry 18” off on our arches.
  21. 1 point
    Well done there guys for saving another, some great fabrication work as well👍
  22. 1 point
    The air ride was a piece of piss to fit, just replace the springs with airbags. A few tweaks involved of course, had to cut away the front bumpstops and drill a few holes or mounting etc but generally no bother at all. The management was more of a pain tbh. It was a custom made kit from a company in Croatia, there are another 2 Mantas that I know of with the same kit so they will obviously make them to order. Wheels came through Auto Extreme, although these wheels have now been discontinued so these are a mismatched set with slight defects (paint imperfections) so couldn’t be sold from the factory. I like the look of a lot of the image wheels, they’re just bloody expensive! But any split rims are. If you want any info on sizes and offsets pm me and I’ll happily share all the info I know, I’ve had various sets on this car, before and after the air was fitted and have looked into offsets no end for years👍🏻
  23. 1 point
    Just fitted them this afternoon, put the tyres off the borbets which I thought would work fine but turns out the fronts are too fat and will rub the wings so I’ll have to order narrower ones☹️Wheels are 7twenty style 44’s, 16x9 et0 and 16x8 et0, not sure about the colour but we can easy sort that. I quite like the aggressive look!
  24. 1 point
    hi all. i have been reading loads and loads about alignment settings and have built myself some tools to do this. laser pen calibrated on adjustable base to do straight line thrust and toe measurements and a digital angle finder on an adjustable vertical bar calibrated for camber/ caster measurements. however one thing that keeps cropping up is the caster sweep angle. in an ideal world you would just rotate your wheel 90 deg and get a caster reading from this but obviously a wheel wont have 90deg of movement so i thought move it 45 deg and just double the reading you get off the camber guage. ( ie:22.5 degree out,zero guage ,22.5 degree in and then double the reading. that seems to make sense but i keep hearing about a 20 deg in/out ( total 40)sweep and some even say use 30 deg total and double it .? what am i missing .it seems like basic angle measurement to me . this weekend im going to build a quick wooden frame with 2 arms and pivot points to try and bench test the idea and see whats what.
  25. 1 point
    yes thats what i have made. a digital angle finder .its got to be more accurate than the available camber guages which are only bubble guages.i have mounted it on a bar which is adjustable to fit rim size 13" to 16" . then calibrated on a spring loaded arm. caster would then be the sweep that i am unsure about but maybee after ive had a little play this weekend it will be clearer. thought about making something to fit inbetween the upper and lower balljoint stubs too as that would be a perfect caster measurement.adjudtment if req is limited of course with the spacers but i would imagine it will be ok anyway just want a way to measure it for my own records.
  26. 1 point
    yes definately later type. early ones had the surround like you said.then the style after had a more flat fronted glass up to around 78 ish.these are the next type H4 halogen.quite expensive thou but i suppose they are getting rarer now ! as you say its the reflectors that wear out first ,followed by glue failure causing internal condensation.
  27. 1 point
    Hi everyone. Hope you are safe and well. These headlights aren't for the early b that has the eye brow surround on them. Gutted as I would of had them both as spares. O well....
  28. 1 point
    The other side is a Tenner cheaper! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Cavalier-MK1-Opel-Manta-B/254470809019?hash=item3b3fa465bb:g:CqwAAOSwTs9eD1Br They look more like later headlamps than early, but stand to be corrected.
  29. 1 point
    Rattling or clunking around in the bottom of the door !!!! That's where you will find the window guide if its missing..... I did. 😆
  30. 1 point
    Further Update - Practical Classics Classic Car & Restoration Show We are pleased to confirm that the rescheduled dates for the Practical Classics Classic Car & Restoration Show, with Discovery, are 7-9 August at NEC Birmingham.... Obviously, the unfolding Covid-19 Situation may still interfere but lets keep our fingers crossed. If you haven't yet got your tickets yet, not a problem as they are back on sale again! Get yours today to join us - we can't wait to see you in a few months! https://bit.ly/2Lq31YO If you've already got your tickets, don't worry, they'll automatically be carried over.
  31. 1 point
    Evening Bill. The following are all of my NS / Passenger side one - I hope that they help you? Good luck!
  32. 1 point
    Count me in for a set if you do please!
  33. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  34. 1 point
    Good to see you have some alcohol to keep the virus rapt bay 😁👍👍
  35. 1 point
    Bored today, so beginning the passenger side swan neck removal on this one. Chassis rail looked ok, but as I have a pair here thought I may as well just take the lot out. Got rail off and some of the swan neck. Started to fabricate the new inner and I'll work my way forward, further up the swan neck.
  36. 1 point
    if It cuts out the noise and makes window go up nice you would soon forget about the price 😂😂
  37. 1 point
    Exactly, if your happy no need to mess. So was a bit of challenge but successful modification 👍
  38. 1 point
    Hi Ian you can borrow my boot carpet for a template.its from an exclusive tho not sure if the boots the same shape?
  39. 1 point
    wow yes thats a great example too .where have they been hiding no neither would i but i suppose it would still look better than most of the modern soulless crap around . i was meaning the cav would be a great base for a manta using manta rear pan and roof the lower floorpan is same realy up to under the rear seats but if it were me i would just build a nice 2.2 gls from it like i did with mine
  40. 1 point
    So the new timing case is now on with all new gaskets. brakes test fitted and now painted. Hopefully once I get my stuff to and from the powdercoating place I can complete the engine & running gear.
  41. 1 point
    Im after a little bit of engine setup advice form some of you guys who are far more of an expert than me on the old CIH. So this is what i have: fully rebuilt engine, running twin throttle bodies, distributor-less ignition, 36 tooth trigger disc with a front cover from the frontera 2.4 for the pickup (its a webcon system) Now the engine turns over, has spark, has fuel but wont run, it doesnt even try to fire up. So im thinking have i messed up the timing? and how do i sort it out so its right or is there any other things i could be over looking. When i setup the engine and trigger disc (before the head was put on) i set the engine so number 1 piston was at the top and set the trigger disc to there instructions (its was a 5 tooth then) but later i swapped the ECU to a fully mappable one and i setn my pulley and trigger disc to webcon so they could set the new one so it was right with how i had it configured. So after a google it looks like the 36 tooth disc should have the pickup on tooth 9 after the missing tooth? and below is what i have found about the timing and cam setup that was posted on the Opel GT site. I need to setup the engine and check the cam location but thought i would try and get some views on where i have gone astray. and what to do next Thanks Andy CIH Cam and Ignition Timing
  42. 1 point
    Hi, Yes they are Commodore. The arms were heated cherry red then bent outboard to restore the Ackerman angle. You can see the cut-out in the disc back plate to give clearance for the steering arm and track rod end.
  • Create New...