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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/01/20 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Some paint going on 🤗
  2. 6 points
    more done today. Got all the satin black trim that I painted yesterday fitted. All sections of each door trim cleaned up and fitted, kick panels fitted, sill tred plates fitted, sunroof seal fitted, rear grab handles fitted, seat belts fitted, seat runners, skid plates, and recaro seat bases in, rear quarter cars in, rear quarter window seals cleaned and fitted, doesn't sound much. But this is one of the most time consuming parts of the build for us, everything has to go on in a particular order, or it all has to come out again 😂
  3. 6 points
    Yes mate was a nos part. Bit of progress made last few days. Got roof liner out, laid it over top of the roof of another manta, and gave it a light bit of heat with heat gun, to work out some creases from being storage. Made a few repairs to the stitching, gave it a clean, and got it installed to the car. Got all the aluminium trim together, i prepped and repainted it all under a heat lamp. Wiper arms, prepped and painted satin. Also got seat runners out and seat bases, prepped and painted them, and painted the satin black bits on the car that blend into the trim. Hopefully more progress to come tomorrow
  4. 5 points
    Hi, I start my theme for my Opel Manta project. I begin to disassemble the car and the new engine to restore it. I bought Martin's body kit (it will arrive on Friday). The project is slow because I don't have time to do it, but I will report the progress. The car is in good condition, I only find a little corrosion inside the car (driver's side, I upload a photo) but it is not important. I want to put five screws (5x120), I read a lot of information and I have clear the update for the front wheels with the TJM hub kit, but for the rear axle I am a little confused, I read about the 4HA rear axle, the Volvo axle .. I don't know, maybe someone with more experience in that , maybe someone can help me to understand the best way to do it. Thanks This is the part with corrossion, i cut it and i will solder new metal.
  5. 4 points
    No big changes on the car, but you all love pics. Went yesterday with my son & the Missus to Brussels to visit the Motor show. Well saw a lot of those electro-cars, seems we petrol heads are a breed that will be dead in a few years. Had today a few ours over so I did some work: The car was already lifted up on stands so I can work under the car laying on a piece of plastic and when I have to work in the engine-bay I don't have to bend too deep so my back feels better: Noticed the clutch cable looses some plastic that surrounds the inner steel cable, so I poured some fine oil (wifes sewing machine 😁) into the hose of the cable: Engine bay with some more components: To fit the clutch cable I always remove the switch on the pedalbox. Gives you a bit more place to fit the cable on the hook. The electrical loom needed some repairs cause the tape was losing grip on it. Noticed also next time I have to fit first the accelerator-cable before the brake-booster. Fiddeling with the rubber grommet😬: Have a nice Sundayevening!
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    Just a little update. I sandblasted the 'good' half of the roof again. There are a few sections where tin worm has made some small holes but the surrounding area is still quite think. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pwy6W4Jk9Stcqvyt9 So I decided to try to weld up the small holes and deposit some weld on the thinner material. My thoughts were if it didn't work I can cut it out anyway. Welder on lowest setting and.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/phDSrNbFWKQa7Wyx6 Using compressed air I managed to avoid any distortion. I then used a sharp file to flat them down flush with the shape of the roof to give this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FrP5SzT7pqQvLNFv6 And this https://photos.app.goo.gl/UBZq7SDsTSbeCfdf8 So now I think I have to cut out about half as much as I thought. https://photos.app.goo.gl/h2JmWBLXeTZ1tWBs8 I'm quite pleased with this. There's no rust in the sections I've repaired, they are strong and there's zero distortion. Once finished I'll blast it again and then a skim of P40 filler and it should last year's. Hopefully...
  8. 2 points
    Manta and BMW sold Thanks everyone Fiat 850 Coupe next and Mk2 Mini Cooper
  9. 2 points
    Shsssssssssssssssss, dont tell em the early ones are better metal, all we needs is a shit load of quad lights, injection systems, spoilers, skirts, and recaros, fake gtes will flood the market. A nice early car tba is better, my 1.6 78b, is my fav, never sell it, was gonna convert it to a 2.0 5sp, glad i didnt now, building up an other b, this time a 2.0 4 speed, decided to keep 4sp, see how that goes
  10. 2 points
    Just looked at the pic again and judging by the carpet wear by the drivers mat plastic heel pad that is indeed my old 77 sr coupe that i spoke about.
  11. 2 points
    If you mix oil with petrol then pour into the cable, it will be thin enough run down inside then when the petrol evaporates the oil will be left inside the cable, It will be well lubed
  12. 2 points
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  13. 1 point
    One wonders how long the Disklok has been on there.
  14. 1 point
    Indeed, just a shame I cant see it in the flesh. They think they will get it all finished, including the shuts etc and back together for when I get back home end of themonth, coincidentally its my birthday so it would great to be able yo take it for a spin, even with its measly 90bhp 💪
  15. 1 point
    I was going to revise my estimate upwards after I'd given it some more thought. You might be right if it's as nice as it sounds.
  16. 1 point
    I think this car if its as mint as he says is worth £12,000+ easily
  17. 1 point
    As said by a lot of people on the FB page, it’s not really for sale as the owner is just fishing for (big)offers. unless someone posts a price, then most of the time they will only sell if a stupid offer is made. 🤯
  18. 1 point
    Rear axle should be ok with the power from that engine. The weak link in the axle is the. Torque tube, and that can be upgraded with a special part from German dude. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-CIH-verstärkte-Deichselwelle-Hinterachse-Ascona-Manta-A-B-Kadett-C-GT-1000/283463128403?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  19. 1 point
    Herman, if I've been riding on really dusty tracks I flush the cables with a mix of about 80%petrol 20% oil, this does a good job of flushing out the fine dust paticles and cleans the cable sheath (Might help clean the salt and sand out of the inflatable cables). After this I run about the same 40% petrol 60% oil as Wayne suggested. Evo, the drip bag is great idea, I currently use a glass jar from one of my kids old chemistry sets.
  20. 1 point
    Lovely looking manta at the show anyone taking responsability.
  21. 1 point
    Good luck with the sale of your Porsches...they certainly cost a lot to maintain.
  22. 1 point
    We have had this one for a couple of years and put it on the backburner. The blaster said he was coming a few weeks ago so it was time to start the restoration process It is an E reg one owner car All paint removed from the delicate parts using paint stripper and a DA The shell is mint apart from the pass A post and some other small bits
  23. 1 point
    Thanks herman, there's always those elusive parts that simply vanish in the workshop too, that seem to take an age to find again 😂 Does anyone know the colour code to the exclusive wheels ? Is it just anthracite ? Thought it was 81L but when you search for that it comes up as a black metallic or anthracite.
  24. 1 point
    I use the same method on my trials and MX bikes. For the bikes I have adapted a small reservoir for the ends of the cables and let them hang for a day or so to allow the fluid to run through, nice smooth operation when refitted to the bikes.
  25. 1 point
    I think finding all the specific bits bolts washers spacers and then finding the plastic bits to cover up all the bits we spent hours fitting is the hardest bit. Welding is the easy part of restorations. I’m enjoying the build again though.
  26. 1 point
    No sunroof, win win! Cant beat a black manta, especially with 5 spoke alloys adding style. How can you beat em quad lights, nice investment, em!
  27. 1 point
    Yes, a 1.8 GT Hatchback Exclusive - shows as a 1796cc in blue, probably Monaco Blue originally. Fixed rear quarter lights as per the GT.
  28. 1 point
    Doubt it was a GTE originally, being a hatch on an F plate. It's registered (Oct 88) as an Opel Manta Exclusive, so perhaps a GT Exclusive originally. Nice though!
  29. 1 point
    That's great thanks. Mine is a 75 so that should also be true for that year I would think. My bank balance thanks you 🤣
  30. 1 point
    Yes early 76 and 77 model SR Manta did have this steering wheel, my 77 coupe was fitted with that from new.
  31. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  32. 1 point
    This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  33. 1 point
    Aye I've got a video but it's long I'll try to edit it and stick it on here. Also got an incar. That's the 1st I've been out properly so still having teething troubles but it's not far away. Don't get me wrong it's not a show winner but it's solid enough and it's got all the right parts. No the springs are right I'm sure. The thicker springs in the front (more weight). VID_20200110_215009.mp4 Wee moment 😂😂
  34. 1 point
    The attached has just been posted on the Facebook group.
  35. 1 point
    GTE decals aside, it does look very nice with the Exclusive Ronals on it. Apart from keeping it original, rather than dropping a 16V in, I'd be tempted by a SRi130 lump. Would look almost OEM and a useful 35BHP increase.
  36. 1 point
    Little update on progress with engine. Car still at paint shop. Back to working on engine today. Mostly sorting through my ever growing acquired parts in the shed (down at Garage), omg It soon becomes a monster! Anyway dig out some of my oem manta bits and done some measurements off the C20xe block with 1.8 engine mounts. Since I will be doing same type of engine, but bigger bhp in the black coupe, it feels like the time I spend doing planning is definitely worth while. Had a good chat on Saturday over FB with a chap that has done this conversion into Ascona. Seems getting it low is the key, but there was some good news too. It seems there is clearance at the rear of the cylinder head for a hose connection, so my idea of conversion to a Banjo fitting will work even better, but not absolutely necessary. next question was about the sump. The Chap had used a std SAAB sump, cut and then welded up his own baffled sump, that sits forward of the steering rack. I am not overly keen on this idea myself. I have already ordered a laser cut steel sump flange, So got a manta 1.8 sump out to make some measurements to see about fabrication. However it’s not that far off as is. It will require an alloy flange machined and then welding to the manta 1.8sump but it would be the least amount of welding required, aesthetically pleasant and no welds in the bowl that would be submerged in oil. I have heard some stories of cast going a little porous at welds. Roughing up the position of the engine mountings central line from the bell housing flange. Again the 1.8 engine mounts come to some use here to help identify where my mountings need to roughly be. Obviously final fettling would be done in the car, but wow the right side (left in picture as edging is sump up) is very close. So RH side will be really easy to fabricate, although the dipstick tube needs to go through it. I am going to build a jig to help with these 👍 LH side engine mounting is going to be a bit tricky. In the pictures you can see it sits close to oil filter housing (solution found below) and turbo oil drain return at the other side. Bracket will sit higher, might need to create some soarer on subframe or a way to create a column to sit on top of the mounting, like a tube with section cut out for access to the mounting nut. The jig will help solve this one. But turbo is going up higher, so will be well out if the way. Oil filter will need to be replaced, however again the chap with the Ascona put me onto a couple of adapter plates on eBay for remote filter mounting. Oem fitting will be in the way of mounting. Any pictures I have shared that are from Dutch Ascona are clearly marked ‘ Ascona’ to save confusion, but I wanted to share so that it might help others, and may help you understand what the feck I am rambling on about 🤪🤪 Also check out that Dutch Ascona double ARB 🤔
  37. 1 point
    Just a quick update. I managed to get all the welding and grinding back done on the underside. I found one more small hole on a seat reinforcement plate but it's all cut out now and new metal in. I then spend hours and hours cleaning off ancient waxoyl, sanding back and cleaning up and spots of surface rust. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ax8Tewoae6kxkEGc9 Then I primed and bare metal with etch primer from a can and let that harden for 24 hours and used up a can of red oxide on any paint that was looking a bit thin. https://photos.app.goo.gl/RXNZ9aFACDHnpsCF6 Then I had to wait for a warm(ish) day to play with my new compressor. I mixed up a litre of red-oxide/rust inhibitor primer with 10% thinners and a cap full of Japan driers. And then practiced on a sheet of card until I was happy with the gun settings. I then sprayed the whole underside with 2 coats of red oxide primer. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FSAADZbPHMcEHNucA It's not perfect but it feels good to get some proper paint on. I've got to let this harden up for a week or so and wait for a warm dry day so I can seam seal the underside and get some stone chip on the exposed parts. Then a couple of coats of chassis paint and then I'm calling that a day. I've also picked up a cheap CIH engine which I'm busy looking at. The engine is a bit earlier than I thought so it's not unleaded so I'm just considering how much time and effort to put into it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Arc9Hb5n9YzP5gwn7 I've partially stripped it. Bores look ok with no marks and very little lip, crank looks good under the big end caps. Cam and followers all look spot on. Not many photos because I was covered in oil but here are a few. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zvLT5sbqGqkVRWU76 I've also managed to pick up the front section of an exclusive coupe roof which had rotted out at the sunroof so I now have the panel I need to repair the front of my roof where it's rusted under the vinyl. I'll move onto that while I'm waiting for the weather to improve for painting. That's all for now. Happy New Year.
  38. 1 point
    Yes most of the rubbers display them upside down. The early cars had them displaying opel, instead of GM.
  39. 1 point
    Nice to see you have the rubber with GM the correct way up. Most are upside down 😀 wonder if its somthing to do with LHD ? looking good Herman 👍
  40. 1 point
    It's a pain mate, I did set it up on some new steel sheet before hand. And it all good till you try and weld that new steel against manta steel, they must be made out of real crap metal. I've welded a lot of cars and mantas always seem to be the worst. I must admit I've never tried to polish it. Finished off the rear sill section today and cut out the rotten swan neck and section of chassis rail. New inner made and welded in place. New section of chassis rail cut yo size. Tomorrow I'll install that section along with the swan neck cover. Still struggling with this mig lol
  41. 1 point
    Antwerp was nice, the girls were talking their stuff and we were talking petrol head's stuff😁! So today we did some prep's for New-Years Evening but could steel some time in my garage. Again painting and varnishing but also fitting some more insulation and cleaned the screw-thread of the mass cables, also the one on the swann-neck: About the insulation: When you build it out some parts must be broken to keep the soft insulation in good condition. So I broken a lot of those clips and springs and ordered some new again. The plastic ones are 7.2mm and fit nice, the metal starlock clips are 8 mm: Noticed the 8mm starclips fit nice on a 10mm socket: So they were easy fitted on their place, just push and ok: Also pushed the old bushes out of the panhard-rod, no hydraulic press (not in the barracks yet) but did this the "do-it-youself" way. With my vise and looks as someone did some upgrades when we look at that tube: Have a nice New Years Eve all!
  42. 1 point
    As above not sure if they was a factory fit but there's markings to cut out inside bumper. Slow progress today really. Struggling to get the hang of this new welder, spending more time faffing with it than working. Managed to complete the inner section and get a sill plate welded in. Still some flatting to do and the bottom edge to finish, but I'm getting to grips with it now. Bit more time with it and I'll have it figured out.
  43. 1 point
    Well I survived Christmas but the Missus had a secret agenda so I had no time to work on the Manta. But today I went back to the garage to work on the car. Lot of parts need to redone, paint them and the worst is looking after all the parts and what screw is fitted in what place. Painting some parts: Fitted the black insulation stuff, it cracks easy when bended so I used some cardboard boxes to keep them in shape in storage. Still it is a terrible job to fit them back again. One part (exhaust side on the bulkhead) was totally cracked and not usuable again cause of the heat. If you fit the ventilation piece behind the battery don't forget to use something to seal that part so no water (condens)or fumes can enter the interieur: As you all can see my battery is on the other side😁. Enjoy your weekend!
  44. 1 point
    Hey Andy, thanks for info. I saw it also so it is hanging in my garage ready to use ! So it has been a while I posted something, an update: The radiator is delivered and looks very nice. 50mm thick core with 43 cooling channels. Costed me with mailing 180€. Last week I took the decision the "400" has got to go...😥 To the winter storage in company of a lot of other old-timers😊. Need also the space to work on the GSI. So the day I wanted to drive to that location the car didn't start. Like the car knew it had to leave my garage. Checked some basic things and I had no ignition! The low voltage circuit was ok, also the resistors and the coil also. So got to check the wires that come from the "hall-sensor": Problem is this distributor is rather rare, got to check if the hall-sensor of a GSI is the same and so on... I will keep you all posted... Grts, Herman
  45. 1 point
    I measured the humps into a square, then drawn rounded edges onto the template. I then went around the lines I'd drawn on my steel with a blunt chisel to start forming the shape, I then used a rounded rubber buffer from the back of a HGV trailer housed in my vice and began slowly beating it to shape. It wasn't ideal or perfect, but it did the job and was all I could come up with as I could not locate a new tray in RHD anywhere after a lengthy search lol
  46. 1 point
    With the VBOA show out the way, I can now concentrate back onto this build inbetween doing our Monaco blue exclusive coupe. After a lengthy search for a RHD battery tray Nothing came up, so I desided I'd have a go at replicating it. I managed to knock something up it's not perfect but will do the job. I'll be down at the unit this evening finishing it's installation, then hopefully I'll get a couple of patches into the inner wing area too. Once that's done there's a small bit required on the front panel and that should be the welding completed. I've had a short motor rebuilt, it requires new shells, new mains, crank grind, polish and balance, piston liner, new rings, and and oil pump case. I also need to find some new over size valves as it turns out 4 are bent in the spare head I sent in for testing 🙄
  47. 1 point
    Nice one, well done. Will be there next year in my A series, but probably wont be up to the level of yours 🙂
  48. 1 point
    Today’s big job was to get the front and rear screens fitted, in preparation i laid the rubber seals out in the sun to warm up and soften a little, Two weeks ago I contacted Auto Windscreens and they were able to supply a brand new bronze tint front screen with blue sun-strip, here the front screen is being fitted with the rubber then the string wrapped round to pull it in, Bronze tint front screen fitted, I was able to give the lad a lift in and a help when required, Original rear bronze screen all prepared ready for installation, It’s always a relief when both are in and fitted, what a difference it makes, just another step closer to the finish line, Front bronze screen details,
  49. 1 point
    Passenger side inner made and fitted, jig fits.😀 I'm going to cut out and replace the inner further back to jacking point. I'll then move on to drivers side. And do the same, then a good clean up, rust treatment, zinc rich primer, paint and trim before final weld and outer skins go on.
  50. 1 point
    With a bit of mucking about you can but if you haven't done much modding before i wouldn't bother as it is a bit tricky. The best way is to fit 2.0 head fitted with the 2.2 valves (inlet and exhaust) and mildly port (literally smooth up) the ports. This will give a big improvement in flow for the price of recutting the seats and half a day with a die grinder. The std 2.0 injection can then be fitted. CCC mag (Dave Walker to be precise)did a test for doing just this with big gains. The 2.0 engine was timed 0-100, the head was then removed and fitted to a std 2.2 bottom end and the run done again. The 0-100 time came down by 33% due to the increase in low down and mid range torque. more can be gained from the 2.4 but the increase is not as great. HTH Chris
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