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  1. 12 points
    Last mot was around 2 years ago amazing how time flys by Quick fluid check mini service checked the brakes whipped it to local testing station passed with no advisory’s 👍👍 finally got my genuine engelman mirrors and irmsher twins also changed bonnet never felt comfortable with the old 1 with the bonnet catches so put 1 with a metal frame so I could have a proper catch ( still needs a little adjustment and the sticker replacing same with the front air dam will sort that next weekend totally forgot the smiles per gallon 😃
  2. 12 points
    Thought I’d share a few pics of my latest mods on the old girl. Bought some brand new daytona check material and had the centres of a pair of leather Escort RS Turbo recaros retrimmed. So much comfier than the GM seats. This past weekend has been spent fitting my new air ride set up which I’m glad to say I’m very happy with. I was sick of being pissed off with my ride height so thought this was the only way to go😎 Has anyone else got air ride? If so I’d like to hear what you think of it...good or bad...
  3. 11 points
    And finally back on the road!! She's back on the road at long last!!
  4. 11 points
    Hi, I have finally got my hands on a Manta, I had always dreamed of getting a white hatchback and here she is. Currently located at a friend's lock up. I hope to have her back on the road and at some shows for next summer. She is still MOT'ed but there are a couple of wee things I want to attend to. Rory
  5. 11 points
    We had a great weekend, some pics: The Missus made some pics with the handy, got to upload them... Herman
  6. 11 points
    ENGINES !!!!! ARGHHHHHHHH! Well its been a busy winter in my camp this year! I've had a few issues, and thanks to some of the members its all going good for now! Here’s what has been happening and I hope you enjoy this mega Manta update. ____________________________________________________ I started off the winter on a bit of a downer actually. I was hoping to finish the car to take it away to the Gower for my anniversary in October, but the Engine that I rebuilt just using new seals was still pulling in oil past the seals and down the guides. I was hoping that the cleaned up and rebuilt lump would last a couple of years but unfortunately this wasn’t going to be the case. She ran sweet for about 500 miles, and then started to smoke a little bit on hard acceleration and I knew that the prognosis of this was not going to be good. After about another 100 miles it was smoking on start-up, not lots but enough that I didn’t like it! To top it all off on her last outing the heater matrix decided give out and started to turn the interior into a Swedish sauna with a pinhole in the lower matrix body feeding little wafts of smoke up through the windscreen vents. That my friends was enough!!! I placed her in the garage and stopped to think and sulked a lot! A bit depressed and a bit disheartened I thought that I would put up a parts request on the forum for a good 2.0E engine, also put feelers out for engine rebuild advice of which I got plenty. December came and went, but in January I had a message from @Mantacol asking me if I was still in the market for a good low mileage engine as he had a 58,000 miler out of an exclusive that he had up for grabs. He said it’s been sat for about for a few years, but it was a great engine when he removed it. Colin lives about 200 miles away from me, but it sounded to good to be true a 58,000 miler!!! We settled on a price and then my wife and daughter and I set out for the journey up to north Wales. Colin and his Wife were really lovely and he showed me his/her/their (you will have to inform me on that one Colin) 400R which is really looking the part. I made a frame out of 75mmx75mm timber to hold the engine securely in the trailer for the journey back so it wasn't rolling around. The engine apart from being covered in dirt and crud was all there, complete with inlet and exhaust manifold, injectors, throttle body dizzy, so I knew that is not been messed around with. The sump was off and the bores looked unmarked and clean and shiney like they do after a few miles. On removal of the manifolds there was no evidance oil staining on the exhaust guides or in the inlets. Even engines that have been left for a while can still show evidence of these faults that can indicate worn guides. The first job was to remove the water pump. The water pump had seized up solid , but this didn’t matter as I already had a one to go on that was on my original engine. Although I know this is not good practice it had only done about 600 miles so I thought I would use it. After spraying a can of WD-40 on the bolts I managed to remove them. I’m sure this was the original water pump as these bolts felt like they had never been removed. I always take extra care with these bolts as if you dont you can end up taking the threads out with the bolt! Behind the pump lay corrosion but this soon cleaned off and after I gave the engine a good wash and brush down with white spirit things were starting to look a lot more like it! After the wash and dry out of the engine every thread in the water pump housing was cleaned out. Lucky I had some extended taps to do the threads in the block that run through the front timing casing. I cant recommend doing this enough as the steel bolts corrode quickly against the alloy and create lots of white dust which block the threads up giving false torque readings. It can also restrict the depth that the bolts go in, and in some cases strip threads giving you all sorts of problems with leaking water pumps. After I had bunged everything up it was to work with the grinder with a rotary wire brush on the cast iron only. I love this tool as it cleans the pours of the cast iron and makes it all nice and new looking. After the engine is made dirt free, any threads were cleaned out with the correct tap, and then I masked up and sprayed to match the engine that was to come out of the Manta. While the engine was out I decided that as she had been stood for a while it might be a good shout to give the lifters a once over. And im glad I did. They were solid with tar and only 3 of them had any movement in the head of the lifter at all. It took me nearly 4 hours to disassemble them. The internal piston on most of them was gummed into the lifter so bad that even soaking them in brake cleaner did nothing. Using the air tools to blow through the tiny oil gallery in the side of the lifter helped to work it free. All the lifters were completely stripped, checked and rebuilt and operated as they should. The removal and insertion of the engine was as always very straight forward, but fortunately I managed to get hold of a brand new original GM stamped clutch plate for the GT/E so that went in as well. After I connected every up watered and oiled her, I primed the oil system by using a tool I have made to go into the oil pump drive socket. I place it in a power drill at a moderate speed and keep going until oil starts coming out of the 8th lifter and running down the slope by the oil return pipe at the back of the head. Everything in the engine had already received a coating of oil cam, camchain, crank, bearings, bores Etc. as the sump had been off the engine, and I had removed the cam covers to clean and lube everything. THE START UP She started first time. Ran a little lumpy as they do for about 10 seconds and then ran fine. There was a little smoke coming from the exhaust, but I wasn’t worried at this stage as everything had just been oiled up and this was expected. I got her up to temperature and shut her down and removed a plug and there it was..... Oil. I also had oil in the inlet manifold, quite a lot of it as well. The 2.2 rocker cover looks great, but even after cleaning out the mesh in the rocker cover I was still getting the oil in the inlet manifold and it was sucking down the engine breather pipe. I decided that I will go back to the standard rocker cover as the breather exit is very high, in fact it’s on it's own little box on top of the rocker cover, compared to the 2.2 one which exits from the side of the cover quite low down. After cleaning up and spraying up the standard cover and fitting, I still had this problem. After chatting with @mantasrmehe reminded me to clean out the oil breather gauze in the rocker cover as this condenses the oil. I removed them from both ends of the cover and they looked like they had been baked in tar. Once these had been cleaned and I had cleaned as much oil as possible from the manifold out I had no more oil in the manifold!…… But I still had oily plugs. ARGHH! @H-400 pipes up here and tells me that it’s probably the valve stem oil seals, but first to check out the compression. I had a old compression tester so I screwed it in and each cylinder was making 170PSI, more importantly as David said they were all the same. This was great news as this proves that the bottom end is good so I must be sucking oil down the guides!! AGAIN! At 58,000 miles I dont think the guides should be that worn. There was hardly any sludge in the engine or around the top of the head, so taking onboard all the advice I have been given I surmised (and prayed) that it must just be the valve stem seals. I made a tool to compress the valve spring using a old rocker. I had to cut this out with a 1mm disk cutter blade as these little suckers are very hard. With the piston up to near TDC and 2M of clean braided ratchet strap cable poked down the plug hole, I backed off the rockers on number 1 and brought the engine up towards TDC until I could feel resistance. I proceeded to remove the inlet valve using my tool and once the collets had been removed and the spring out, I could gain access to the seal. I gently prised the seal off with a flat blade screwdriver and removed it and it was like concrete. The “rubber” was as hard a a Bic biro pen. The seal you could waggle on the stem where it had shrunk due to no oil and lack of use. If you look at the image of the two seals together you can see the size difference of the inner hole. Although the stem fitting hole on the new one is smaller the inner hole on the new seal is the correct size as it slips down the valve nicely. The seal did not look worn or misshaped but it had just dried out. At this point I could have jumped for joy, as this must be the issue. After chatting with Herman I wanted to get hold of the Victor Reinz style seals with a spring around the stem hole. These seals are far superior to the standard ones as they also incorporate a metal body. Unfortunately the only place to get them from is Germany, so I waited a week for them to arrive. New exhaust seals were also ordered as the old ones had stretched and were slipping up and the valve stem. Replacement of the seals went like a dream. But before I ran the nice new seals down the valves and chaffed them up on the sharp edges I made some seal protectors using heat shrink tubing over the valves as a sleeve was not sent with the seals. These tubes slip nicely off the valve after the seal has been placed on the guide. Just for reference my method for the exhaust guide seal replacement is : First, clean everything. (1) Turn the Rotorcap upside down and fill with oil and put it on. (2) Place on the valve and spring and spring retainer cap and shroud (3) Compress the spring (4) Oil your valve stem and place on your seal protector (5) carefully place the seal over the seal protector and push it virtually to the end of the protector. (6) lift the seal protector slightly until the seal groove is uncovered (7) Gently push the seal off the end of the protector into the groove using something like a WD-40 red tube. You may have to wiggle the spring retainer cap slightly. (8) Pop the collets back in (9) gently unscrew the rocker, making sure everything is nicely in place. This I found is the best way. Once everything has been reassembled and valve adjustments made I started her up ran her, and although I didn’t have any oil any more, my plugs were a little sooty. After testing the ECU temperature sensor (that checked out OK) I found that the previous owner of air flow meter had turned the airscrew right in. I plugged in a Gunson’s Colortune into number 1 plug and turned the air mixture screw out ¼ of a turn at a time and after 1 whole turn out the Colortune went blue. This is now what my plugs look like ! All 4 of them. No oil, and all the perfect colour. So I figure the moral of this update is this. Without this club and this forum I would have been lost. I wouldn’t have had a replacement engine, and I wouldn't have had the help and support to put this engine back into first class working order. So thanks go to Mantacol for the engine (Cheers buddy I owe you one) H-400 & mantasrme for the technical reference / guidance and encouragement Next update making a boot carpet for a coupe!
  7. 10 points
    So the last time this car was stripped and welded was back in 2003/04. It’s seen a lot of action and miles all flat out and driven very hard. Life got in the way and I was going to sell up. I decided to stick it in a garage and leave it. I used it without a care in the world for a further two years and put it in a garage as it wouldn’t pass an MOT with the state of the chassis leg on the drivers side, it’s sat untouched since then for three years under a cover. So since then I moved back from Spain, bought my new home and got engaged it’s now the right time to get D114 BCW on the road and showing it the love I showed it 15 years ago when I bought it. Plans are replace the chassis legs, jacking points and wheel well (even if parts are solid there’re being replaced) the boot floor where it meets the back panel looks crusty too - basically all the bits I never did 15 years ago (I was only 15) 😬 i am going to put new doors on it and get a new headlining made for it as this non sunroof one back in the day was a hard find but it’s bloody horrible. And just do bits that annoy me. next couple of year I want an LSD and toying with the idea of englemanns 🤔 don’t know yet. Here todays progress, 1 man - 6 hours
  8. 10 points
    Good morning Manta club Hopefully i should have my Manta A back on the road shortly although i am looking for a new acelarator cable if anybody can help me out I owned a Manta A sr back in the late 70s i could not resist this car when i saw it at auction 3 years ago hoping to have it out for early August Regards Alan
  9. 9 points
    Just found this pic from Feb 1985, with polished (filthy at the time) Wolfrace slots & B F Goodrich Radial TA tyres. And currently:
  10. 9 points
    Well, as I said the Manta's been certified, and in fact it's been certified for over a year now. The car was with my friend Preston in Orange County for around four months until we were in a position to get it back. Since then it's been parked in the garage and pretty much untouched other than a couple of trips around the area where we live, I hurt my back while moving and I've not really been up to doing much. Slowly getting it off the transporter without grounding Back with the rest of the fleet All that fuss for this sticker - California certification Actually two labels, notice the white vacuum diagram on the right hand inner wing. The battery's new too - they must have left it connected while it was being stored prior to certification and destroyed it. Sigh. First trip - all of half a mile down to the post office! Present from Santa to keep it clean in the garage One area of the car was still nagging me, though, and that's the centre console. The cassette holders are a nice period feature, but honestly they're totally useless nowadays. I actually have a few C90 cassettes still at home but not enough to fill all the slots, and besides, I don't have a tape player in the car! There had to be something I could do with it. One idea was to get a cheap Android tablet and fit it into the area vacated by the cassette holders, then I could run Google Maps on it and have a built-in nav system, music player and other useful apps. The only problem with that was an Internet connection and I haven't yet installed a WiFi hot spot in the car... I suppose I could use my iPhone as a mobile hotspot, but at that point I might as well just put the iPhone in the instrument binnacle and use it to nav for me (which is what I do when I need a nav system these days). The next idea was to use a Raspberry Pi - it's a reasonably powerful computer you can hold in the palm of your hand, it's cheap and it has loads of expansion possibilities. I actually went as far as making up a nav system with a nice big touch screen, GPS receiver, the Raspberry Pi, and a set of maps for the US on an SD card and it worked fairly well. The only problems were 1) I still didn't have a WiFi hotspot so I still couldn't do much with it and 2) it was very distracting looking down at the centre console all the time to consult the map. OK, scrap that one too. My final idea was a trip computer, it's a useful toy, it'll fit down in the centre console and you don't have to stare at it all the time. The Monza has one and so do all cars these days, so why not the Manta? Can't be that difficult. I had a BMW trip computer in my stash of parts and initially thought about using that, but BMW wiring and Opel wiring are different enough that it was going to be quite a mess to use, so scratch that. The next idea was a RHD Monza trip computer. My Monzas are LHD and the trip computer's a big sucker, but the RHD ones are completely different for some reason and small enough to fit in the centre console. I'd bought one off Derek Thompson at GM6 in Penzance years ago so it was worth a go. With unusual foresight I had included most of the wiring for a trip computer when I was rewiring the car and so I just had to find all the connectors and run the wires over to the unit and give it a go. Monza trip computer test fit Well it worked, but there were problems. - Firstly, the Monza is a 6-cylinder 3.0 litre car and the Manta's a 4-cylinder 2.4. That was easy enough to fix, the Monza workshop manual showed there was a setting you could make to tell the trip computer it was a 2.0 or 2.2 litre 4-cylinder car and that would work perfectly. Done. - Secondly the speed didn't display correctly, and that was down to different gearing. I have a vehicle speed sensor in the car for the Becker stereo and it calibrates itself to whatever it sees for speed pulses, so all I'd need to do would be to find the right speed sensor to give me the correct number of pulses per revolution. Again, luck was on my side as the sensor I was using (Ascona C) had multiple flavours, and the 8 pulse one would be just what I needed. Quick order to OCP and it was on its way. - Finally the fuel tank was a different size. The Monza is 70 litres and the Manta only 50, so I'd need to do some magic there to convince the trip computer to show the correct range. A twist to this one is that the trip computer really didn't like the Manta's old mechanical instrument voltage regulator. Because of the way the instruments are designed, Opel could get away with the cheap mechanical voltage regulator that switches between zero and battery voltage periodically, making an average of 10V. The trip computer needed to see a voltage referenced against a true constant 10V source, so I had to make a solid state voltage regulator to replace it. Not hard, just fiddly... It was about that time that I stumbled across the Senator B trip computer in a magazine and it looked perfect. The Monza trip computer had a tiny display and buttons on the trip computer itself (quite a stretch from the driver's seat) but the Senator one was almost exactly the same size but had a bigger display and remote operating buttons, so I could place them where it would be easiest to reach. A call to Derek at GM6 and a week later I had one in my hands. Senator B trip computer, luckily similar connections to the Monza one Now these trip computers can be "personalized" by little plug-in modules to work for 4-cylinder Carltons or 6-cylinder Carlton / Senators and unfortunately all Derek had in stock was one from a 6-cylinder car. Oh well, back to that problem again, but this time it was worse because you had to get the module reprogrammed in order to change the personality and I didn't have the means to do it. The local Vauxhall dealer in Reading was a bust - I asked them if they could reprogram them (Vauxhall's workshop manual "TIS" said they could) but they looked at me as though I was from Mars and said they had no idea what I was talking about. Oh well. A bit of Googling landed me a chap who a couple of years ago had built a programmer for them and offered a reprogramming service if you could tell him what personality number you needed. I knew just what I needed so I contacted him. After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing we agreed we had different number lists. I had a list on TIS that said I needed number 31, he said his numbers started at 50, so he offered to reprogram it to the closest number he could find - 55. A while later I had a reprogrammed module in my hand, I connected it up and found that 55 was a later number for a C30NE Senator B. Sigh. I had changed it from being an early 6-cylinder to a later one. I had to do something different. The good thing is that I used to do electronics as a hobby (and even as a job before I switched to software) so I had some options. My first try was to build a divide by 1.5 circuit on the basis that the injection signal was pulsing at 1.5x the number I needed (6 cylinders instead of 4, right) but the problem was that it didn't preserve the widths of the injection pulses, and it was those that were important. If you think about it, the amount of fuel being used is determined by two things - the pressure of the fuel in the rail and the amount of time the injector is open. Since the pressure is constant, it's the amount of time the injector is open that we're measuring in the trip computer, so I actually needed to divide the number of pulses by 1.5 but keep the actual width of the pulses the same so that it divided the amount of fuel measured by 1.5. Trust me, there's no simple electronic circuit to do that! There's a popular little computer you can buy for a few pounds at Amazon (and other places) called an Arduino. It's a lot less powerful than the Raspberry Pi, but it's a great little thing for connecting to motors and switches to make something computer controlled. It's also great for what I needed. I just happened to have the smallest one (the Arduino Nano) in a drawer at home so I started prototyping what I'd need. To make a long story short, a little external circuitry and only 75 lines of C++ code later and I had exactly what I needed. It converted the signal from the ECU from 12V down to 5V, fed that into the Arduino where it did it's divide by 1.5 (preserving the pulse widths and relative frequency) and then converted the output signal back to 12V for the trip computer. The Arduino being tested. The little board closest to the camera generates the test signal that mimics the Motronic ECU Well, that was my fuel signal sorted and I had the different speed sensor swapped in, the only thing left was the fuel level. My first (and badly thought out) attempt was to try to level shift the signal from the fuel tank to make the tank seem more empty than it was, but I got that one so badly wrong I blew up the solid state instrument voltage stabilizer, something I've never been able to do before! Out with the instruments and more soldering... Notice the diagonal crack in the casing? Takes real skill to do this! Back to the drawing board, and I realized I had the ideal solution just staring me in the face - the Arduino; it claimed it could read analog signals (i.e. voltages) and output them too. It really wasn't taxing itself much with the divide by 1.5 routine, so I set to and added the fuel level adjustment into it - that worked out well because it needed a little fudging to match the fuel tank sender to what the book says it should have been producing and that sort of thing is simple in code, just a single line in fact. So another 30 lines of C++ later and I had my fuel level adjustment sorted. The only twist in the tale was that it really couldn't output voltages, instead it output pulses that could be (fairly easily) converted into voltages. I was never good with analog electronics, but the Internet makes everyone a genius, and a couple of integrated circuits later I had exactly what I needed. Back in the car and a short trip round the block and things were looking good, it was time to get the whole lot to fit. I bought some sheet ABS and made up a replacement for the cassette trays. The trip computer fills the entire space, top to bottom, and is set over on the driver's side. The remainder I decided to split with a horizontal shelf, making a cubby for things like glasses (I'm getting old, I have multiple sets) and a space below that was the original tray. I wanted to hide the USB power connector and aux connector out of the way so I put them at the back of the lower shelf. It's fiddly to find, but beautifully hidden out of the way. The trip computer and shelf Centre console modified to take the control buttons The console back in place, if you look carefully you can see the USB in the centre under the shelf I really need to tidy this wiring up! 300 miles to empty... 0.4 gallons per hour at idle I'm lighting everything up inside the car (it's a bit like a disco in there to tell the truth) so the shelves have short strips of LEDs to provide the lighting and I chose a suitable resistor to dim them down. With the shelf being coated in black speaker carpet (both to hide the shiny black ABS plastic and also help hold things in place) the effect is that the light isn't visible except when something is placed in the shelf, just what I wanted. So that's where I am now, car's pretty much sorted. There are still some things to do, like swap the fuel tank (microscopic hole somewhere) and fit a centre arm rest (saw someone else's project on here and want to do the same thing) but now it's down to driving it.
  11. 8 points
    Enjoy the video: Grts, Herman
  12. 8 points
    Ok so here i go again! Picked up this car just after i bought my last project D91 MOP, it was sat at a local garage that i drive by most days but was under a tarp so never realised what it was until we had a windy day. Long story short checked it out as front end only showing, turned out to be a 1983 berlinetta 1.8 coupe. Did the deal there and then and took it away the following day, its been in storage while i was doing the other Manta but now its time to start the next build! It has a full set of berlinetta wheels but 3 flat tyres so i put on some alloys to get it moving. Not sure why but i tend to like the rusty ones, this one also has rear end damage Got the engine running from a petrol can but sounded ok Interior, well most of it is there but seats are damaged/worn and most trim has marks also dash has couple of sun cracks in the middle Ok first thing was to get the car in the garage and strip it completely down, i can then see the main rust issues and start to collect replacement parts/panels etc The plans i have for the car are still in the planning stage, but i've always wanted to do a 400 replica. First things first must get the shell solid but as a little taster i picked up my 400 kit from Martin this week and couldn't resist just hanging it on.
  13. 8 points
    Sunday morning run for the midlands clan to the Caffeine & Machine.
  14. 8 points
    It’s the small details that make a big difference and provide a finishing touch to a project, when I bought the Manta three years ago, there was no boot liner or petrol tank concealing card, I know these can be made but I keep a look out for original parts, not easy to locate but thanks to another Manta owner I now have sourced these and trial fitted to see how it looks, from this, To this, now the boots tidy, Pleased with the result.
  15. 8 points
    Spent a bit of time in the garage this week, started on the o/s/r lower 1/4 panel, there was also some repair needed to the floor. The inner strengthener had completely gone towards the bottom where it meets the floor to 1/4 section, so i cut out upto a good section and fabricated and welded in the new piece once the strength was back in and the floor repaired i moved onto repairing the 1/4, as this is a shape with different curves i made it in a few pieces to make life easier Next i started on the arch, as i will be fitting a 400 arch i wanted to cut out all the rot and make up a good edge from which i can then fabricate a piece to finish off once the arch was in place. I did it in 2 sections, rear first as i didn't want the 1/4 panel to distort Next job will be to do the front half down to the cill section (still waiting on cill panel).
  16. 8 points
    One whole day, 7am start till 5pm finish has taken this from a shell on a dolly to a rolling project, engine and gearbox in, subframes and wheels on plus exhaust, I’m happy with that for a days work,
  17. 8 points
  18. 8 points
  19. 8 points
    Ok so here are the finished pic's! Sorry about the shade and glare, just when you don't want the blazing sun!
  20. 8 points
    Lately i have been concentrating on getting the engine built up, takes so much time cleaning every part and replacing what i can ie, water pump head gasket etc. Bit of fun with the exhaust manifold, painted it with exhaust high temp paint but it won't set properly until the exhaust gets hot so plastic gloves were needed handling that as got fed up with silver hands! Goods news though engine built up rad in water oil etc turn the key turns over but didn't start, i had it running before strip down but then i remembered another topic on here that mentioned the fuel pressure regulator is wrong in the Haynes manual that i had followed, checked this and yep i had it wrong. Anyway put the pipes the right way around and it fired up, tweaked the timing a little to get it sounding right and ticking over, left to get hot so well happy there. I will give it a proper tune up once finished. I polished the inlet manifold with a wire wheel in a drill and using different grades of wheel, took some time but happy with the result. Painted some more panels and have refitted the front wings, bonnet, boot and doors Back end is almost complete, just need a couple of bulbs and number plate. Earlier i fitted the headlamps, wiper motors and horn. Once the side skirts are painted and fitted i will push the car outside and wax oil everywhere before i start putting the interior back in.
  21. 7 points
    Got this home today Drove it 250 miles up the road, very happy. Couple of niggles as can be expected but nothing major so far. I'll get it up on the ramp over the weekend for a proper look underneath. Renewed my lapsed membership too. It's great to be back!
  22. 7 points
    Just to let you know that the OMOC has purchased this item today for the club supply of panels for remanufacture. It is one of the amazing benefits that we have as a club, as have some funds in the bank and we are using them to stock up on these parts so that we have a future for the cars and the club. Some panels are already in the process of being remanufactured by our provider Expressed Steel Panels. Exciting times ahead!
  23. 7 points
    Hi All, Its been a hectic weekend with one thing and another. It was my Birthday yesterday and also my Nephews 18th Birthday celebration meal (his actual Birthday is tomorrow), so we have had meals out and all of the associated running around etc... Anyway... I have managed to spend some time on the Cav, so this is what we have got done this weekend: Headlights back in and wired up and indicator lenses cleaned. Then the Vauxhall badge was refitted: Front bumper supports fitted and of course the chrome bumper itself: Then the rubber bumper section was added: Next the trim strip that sits between the headlights and the bumper was added: Then I remembered that I still hadn't paint the front two part spoiler, so the first two coats of paint have been added to that (one or two more to go): The NS door shut area was then painted up and the check strap fitted along with the door card etc: Then the door top trim pieces were fitted that retain the outer rain rubbers. These both still need a really good clean by the way): Two of the rear boot badges were added - a bit random buy I really just wanted to see what they looked like lol: Next I faced a challenge... You might remember me saying that the two Manta doors that I had fitted had the trim retaining 'pins' located lower than the Can door ones. Well before painting this meant that I had to cut them all off, but now I had the side trim strips to fit - but how? In true bodger style I came up with an idea - these photos explain how I did it better than any words: It turns out that this trim strip is going to nicely cover what is probably the worst drip on the car - what luck! And the result of this technique on both sides of the car: The last job today was to fit the two 'hockey sticks' to the front valance (using the same technique as I used on the doors): Naturally there is still tons to do, but we are making some progress. Tomorrow of Tuesday I hope to be able to refit the front spoiler which will mean that the front will then be finished. I'm going back to work tomorrow for a rest lol Have a good evening everyone.
  24. 7 points
    Ok so on to finishing the lower rear 1/4, had to make in 3 sections. Firstly i made the top (in the picture) section, will of course be the bottom when the car is up the right way! Once this is the correct shape and welded in place, it will help making the other sections as this runs the full length. I made the front section first, this is a little easier as the section just has a slight curve The rear section is harder because it curves both ways, i also managed to get a return on it where it fits inside next to the rear panel Next i'll be tackling the cill section, floor and the reinforcement section behind the rear of the cill which also attaches to the b pillar. Its always best where you can to drill out the spot welds, makes it easier in the long run and doesn't cause so much damage to the adjoining panels. As the cill had been patched before and looked pretty rough all over i will replace the whole length, this way i can also treat the inner cill. As you can see there is quite a bit of rust (no change there!) so first i will tackle the section behind the front seat belt mount I started to cut back the reinforcer panel and b post section to get to clean metal, piece that attaches to the back of the cill by the jacking point, i was hoping to save some of this but it had gone worst than i thought so out it came. I also at this point removed the section of the inner arch which had the rear seat belt bracket attached. Now all the rot is out of this section i will make up new sections to fit. The outer 1/4 panel above i will deal with once the cill is all lined up and ready to go in.
  25. 7 points
    Hi all don’t think done up date on my manta A 1.9 auto it back on the road after 10 of storage had tuned up by guy near me who’s a mechanic with krypton tuner ,so now the timing is correct it does not cut out when you brake and the put your foot down to pull out of a very busy junction (I live in village near where the new Hinckley point power station is under construction)loads of lorries and coaches so this could have been the end of the Manta and me hair raising and being an auto no chance of bump starting a case of coasting into the nearest turning . Ps a few photos now it’s had a good clean up a 4 new tyres regards sie willetts
  26. 7 points
    Spent today on fluids, filled brake fluid resivoir and bled brake system starting at the back brakes and working forward, then put new genuine Vauxhall oil into the gearbox and the rear diff, I was going to tackle the build up in my garage but speaking to these lads they lent me the use of their garage and ramps for the weekend, it really did make the assembly of the Manta easier having the right tools and equipment, Finally before I finished for the day I let her down on her wheels then went through all the front subframe bolts and tightened them up, after letting the new rubber bushes settle, she is sitting high at the back at the moment but I’ll see if it’s going to drop slightly once I get her fully assembled with Petrol tank, bumpers, boot, glass etc,
  27. 7 points
    Some pics: Nice looking i200: Those two look like sleepers: Nice interieur: I am not a fan of the heavy 6 cilinder in a Manta, but this engine with the light aluminium head can have my blessing, also cause of the nice sound of the engine: And those 2 Blitz trucks look great: Closer look and the left one was a kitchen with under the bonnet a BBQ! No kangeroo, only muscles: This pic shows my "400", with the first time of his life my son behind the wheel of "our" "400". Something "Father/Son" thing and he was so proud! He also said that car's clutch is like a truck, no power steering and an engine that is not easy to handle. And I was not the only one with a "400": Great looking car, love it!
  28. 7 points
    Only 7 days between the 2 pictures that was a real hard push for the VBOA weekend
  29. 7 points
  30. 7 points
    Small update since my last post, sold the bbs reps and got my new Revolutions on, along with a window louvre, love the revo’s but still not sure about the louvre Just fitted some old shit of tyres I had lying about before I decided what size to settle for so had to smoke them off Can’t wait till summer
  31. 6 points
    OK people. I have just finished spraying the second coat with a higher air pressure (approx 50 psi) and I am much happier with things now. It will still need another/final coat in my opinion are there are at least two places that have run and I want to make sure that there is plenty of paint to work with once I start flatting back. As (hopefully) you can see, there is already a pretty good depth pf shine to it. That little lot can dry off now for the next 24 hours or so, then I will apply the final coat tomorrow evening. Perhaps it is now time to reveal the paint I chose? I have used this paint twice before on cars and found it to be good for home spraying (in terms of H&S) and it can also be brush applied for those difficult areas. I have used coach enamel paint in Gloss White. I did some colour match tests a coupe of weeks ago and it was so close to Polar White it was incredible, so I pressed ahead. As I have said before, the purists may be horrified - but hey its my car and my choice
  32. 6 points
    Managed to spend a bit of time in the garage this week, as mentioned above i will concentrate on the rear inner section of the cill, their are 3 parts to this. I had to repair the lower inner arch section where the seatbelt anchor sits first and the floor Once i was happy with that i moved on to the piece that attaches to the cill and also the rear jacking point, this had to be made from thicker metal as it could be supporting the car. I just had to cut out another section of rust first Then plate it up That piece fitted in a treat, so next was making the section that is part of the inner 1/4 panel and also the cill attaches to it as well. Once that was welded in i then repaired the section which attaches to it which is the base of the b post. Bit fiddly this section but best to take your time and also check the cill fits and lines up where it should. I then moved along the cill/ floor and had to fabricate a couple more plates before i got to the jacking point! Once i finish a section i like to coat it in Hydrate 80 for protection. Onto the jacking point To be honest the jacking point and floor around it had rotted but the chassis is very good, there was a small piece of corrosion on the outer skin that i removed and treated the inner but that was just a bit of surface rust. I have closely checked over the rest of the chassis leg and to my amazement its perfect with no signs of any rust issues any where, kinda feels like i'm cheating if i don't replace it!
  33. 6 points
  34. 6 points
    And the colour is on...L224 - Signal Blue. Turned out quite nice to be honest...now the hard work of getting everything assembled begins! At the moment the guys are busy doing a flat and polish on the entire car to do the finishing on it. I'm quite happy with the way the colour came out. It's something a bit different, which I like
  35. 6 points
    Quick update, turbo fixed on day car, so back onto the Manta. I made up the rear lower panel and rear part of the floor, all welded in but can't finish the N/S yet until i have the spare wheel well. Anyway main hurdle was getting strength into the rear panel/floor so i could get it on the spit, now its on the spit, first job will be to remove all the underseal/ wax from every inch of the bottom of the shell. Hot air gun and firm scrapper usually does the trip and of course lots of patience!
  36. 6 points
    Thanks for the comments. This is the outer chassisrail, the further pics will explain the rest. Think it comes in two halves so the width is suitable to cover the original outer rail. Some don't have the skills to do the whole work and I can understand that. I am also more a mecanic than a welder. Took me ages to take that torch again. Maybe Herr Eckhard can answer your question? Some more pics: Fitting the reinforced inner rail, must be accurate there the bolt of the suspension is located: Welding the outer half, there are a lot of holes in the outer rail so spotwelding is easy: Reinforcing the inner rail where the vertical bolt of the front axle fits. Fitting the top inner rail: Everything welded, the silver look is cause I paint-spray everything (before welding) with inox-paint. It conducs electricity very well and is special for mig-welding so the overlay is protected against rust: Between the two inner rails some more reinforcing: Same on the inside of the other half: Ready to treat the seems with kit, as you can see the two halves are welded together wile I used a home-made spanner to keep the rail on its position. I had to cut some metal to keep the original width of the outer rail: @Evo: In the corner you can see the triangle hole, that needs some fixing as the little round hole above it. One detail: drilled one more hole to make the original fixation free of the earth cable.
  37. 6 points
    For a long time I've wanted an Ascona A, preferably a Voyage (yeah right, like one of those is going to turn up!). Over the years a couple of Voyage projects have turned up (the latest one a few weeks ago and featured on this very forum), but I've not had the money or the skills to sort them out. I've also wanted for a long time a car sold by the garage I used to visit as a kid, Bridge Motors in Skellingthorpe. I missed out on an Ascona B saloon about 15 years ago, and haven't seen another since (for sale or otherwise). Then, on Thursday night I saw a post on Facebook linking to an ebay auction for a Voyage (Thanks Paul). Described as 1976 opel ascona showing only 30 000 miles from new This has been sat for years and is being sold as a non runner / restaration looks solid underneath see pictures this is a rare car as I can't find the same model for sale anywhere has keys and service book . log book will need applying for Viewing welcome Interesting, oh, and it's in LIncoln, getting more interesting. A quick look at the photos, it looks quite clean, and one shows a partial registration plate, WTL 75. That's a Lincolnshire registration, could this be a Bridge Motors car? Probaby not as it was registered in 76, but the photos make it look like an earlier car, chrome overriders and only 2 air vents in the dash. It's probably been imported in 1976, maybe by a member of the armed forces, lot of RAF bases around these parts. Still, It'd be rude not to go and see it. I phoned the seller, and arranged to go and look at it the next day (Good Friday). On arriving at the yard there in all it's glory was a K registered Ascona. In the metal the paint wasn't as good as the photos suggested, but it all appeared to be solid. One wheel arch trim was missing, and the drivers front wing it should've been on was dented at the bottom. I'm hopeful that can be straightened. Crawling under the car it all looked good again, sills seem to be solid, chassis rails solid, jacking points solid. It doesn't look like it'll need much welding at all. Inside the car is filthy, but looks to be a near mint interior under all the muck. It turns out the car was parked up in a barn in 1976, and the owner passed away. It has sat there ever since until this last week when the guy I bought it from pulled it, and an old Austin A35 van, out. There are a few small dents on the car, possibly due to it having been covered in all sorts of farm detritus over the years. A bit of bartering I agreed a price with the seller which was a bit more than I'd hoped for, but less than he'd been offered over the phone, and included delivery to my house 10 miles away.
  38. 6 points
    Thanks for the comments guys. Evo well spotted with the yellow roof skin. Makes life a bit easier Ian with a slightly larger garage, harest part is trying to keep it clear. So as the car had a rusty sunroof and i don't want one anyway i cut off the roof skin and fitted a non sunroof skin, i had an old roof (thanks Paul b) lying around so went about cutting the skin off, the complete rear of the skin had rust so i cut off the hole rear flange which would spot weld across the back under the rear screen. Bit of a gamble as repairing and welding this part could cause the roof to distort. So cut it off, as there was no cross support i welded a steel box section between the door aperatures just in case there was any movement, treated all areas to a good coat of Hydrate 80 Then went about measuring and double checking every section before i layed the new roof skin on ready for welding. Roof fitted a treat, you can see the weld line to the rear, took a time over this and worth the effort as roof is smooth with no distortion. Next was to fit the 2 cross supports, they needed a bit of fabrication but all fitted and looking good I did the roof first before it goes up onto the spit, just helps to keep the load correct on the car so no potential movement of the shell. Before i put it on the spit i have to make the rear panel good and strong, Danny it come out ok but the bottom came away from the floor as rather rusty down there, as i can't source a repair section i'll go about making my own I have a spare wheel well on order as this has gone past the point of repair. Before i cut the section out i made sure the lights and boot fit so i know its just the lower section that needs sorting. (no boot sealed fitted in this picture) Hopefully i'll get a chance to sort this in the week and get it up on the spit.
  39. 6 points
    Hello my name is Pete, have been an OMOC member in the past and have recently joined again in the hope of finding some help, tips and or parts, my car is a Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 bought from new by my Father in 1977, I acquired it in 1985 and used it daily until it had completed 100,000 miles, had a flickering oil light and was starting to smoke, so in 1990 it came of the road with a view to doing the engine, I was young then and got the Manta bug after going to watch the RAC rallies of the eighties. After watching the rallies I purchased a 400 kit, changed the engine from a 1900 to a 2.0ltr, changed the 4 speed box to a Getrag 5 speed and bought some 13" 4 spoke revolutions and that was as far as I got, the car has basically just sat in the garage since then, disgraceful I know, after 30 years of shift working and now being Semi retired I have a rekindled spirit to get the car back on the road. Lots to do on the car, but I`ll get there hopefully, usual welding to do on swan necks, but want to get it running first, not sure about MOT now it`s 41yrs old?
  40. 6 points
  41. 6 points
    Well that another manta on the road 😈just engine bay and titivating to do over winter time to enjoy now first trip on the road tonight some photos for you all.
  42. 6 points
    Hello fellow members Thought I'd just write a quick article & show a few pictures of my Opel Manta A. She's an ongoing project. She's not the prettiest or fastest of the other Manta's out there, but she's mine! I've her now since November 2017, so just a little over 9 months. The pictures were took when she arrived on our drive last November. She was MOT'd when I bought her, but I wanted to go over the car, prior taking it on the road. After taking most of the interior out, I came across quite a few holes! But I took it to a friend with a workshop who came across more holes in the floor than I had found. But he patched her up, waxoiled her underneath & hammerited inside for quite a tidy sum of £900. OUCH! But a least she is safer to drive now. I serviced her a few weeks ago, with all genuine Bosch parts, fresh oil & antifreeze. But she's not quite running right. So she's going back to the same workshop in a the next few days for a little tune up. I removed the two spotlights a few months ago because I felt she didn't need them with her twin headlights. A previous owner had fitted a set of racing harnesses instead of the standard seatbelts. So I had to buy some of those (a Christmas present from my Wife). I added a few decals on the outside to add a little sportiness to her. Myself & my Wife have took her to a few local shows of late. Cars in the park (Lichfield) Moira (Donisthorpe) & The Barber B5000 classic car meet in Polesworth (Staffordshire) She gets quite a few looks because there isn't many Manta's left around our local area apart from an immaculate red Manta B that goes to all the local shows. She's requiring a few parts to finish off her interior. But as I said she's an ongoing project. I'm hoping to own her for a least 5 years or maybe longer. And I am toying with the idea of changing her colour, but I haven't decided yet. She's due another MOT in September, lets hope she passes. I hope to add a few more photos in the next coming months after we've been to a few more shows. Thanks for reading & looking. Ian
  43. 6 points
    It's now back in the workshop let the fun begin
  44. 6 points
    Ok. Thanks for your constructive input, as ever. I think I can speak for the majority of forum users that think you are, unfortunately, a bit of a troll. Sorry but we can’t tolerate that so you are bannished from the kingdom. Bye bye. For those of you that are interested, I looked for TRW TRANSPORTATION ELECTRONICS on Companies House and the company was wound up in 2004. Some people are surely just out to try and rub everyone up the wrong way. This is one troll that was not worth feeding any more.
  45. 6 points
    Got my seats back today well happy with them
  46. 5 points
    I stumbled across a few old car photos a few days ago, I thought that they might give some of you a laugh so here they are: My first ever car a 1.6 Cav Saloon. This photo was taken on the first holiday I had with my now Wife. We drove down to the West Coast of France in it. By the looks of it I had seriously overloaded it! We got there and back safe and sound though. And the same car after some kind soul had hit it in the back and cleared off... Then I moved up to a 1.9 Coupe. This photo was taken on the Isle of Arran around 1988 The paint went all 'weird' on the roof, so I decided to respray it myself - in completely the wrong colour of Blue lol My mate Jim had a White Coupe and these photos were taken in the driveway behind my Parents house. This would have been around 1990 - 1991 Jim still misses his Coupe to this day and hasn't yet seen what I have been up to in my garage. I actually had a Fiat X19 follow me for miles, then when I parked up he jumped out and offered me £250 for my reg - like an idiot I said no! Memories eh?! Cheers all, enjoy.
  47. 5 points
    Got most done today but run out of polar white😂 so off to get more tomorrow so here’s pics as it looks today
  48. 5 points
    Over the weekend of Friday 19th Saturday 20th & Sunday 21st October 2018 there will be a re-creation of the Lombard RAC rallies from the Seventies & Eighties that commenced from the centre of Bath. There are 122 cars entered including at 120 our own Kenny Chisholm. Jimmy Mcrae will be entry number 8 in the Manta 400. Stig Blomqvist in the Audi Quattro There are lots of interesting cars entered including Ascona 400, Chevette HS2300, Lotus Sunbeam, Metro 6R4, Rapier H120, Lacia Stratos, plus Escorts, TR7's etc. The cars will be leaving Great Pulteny Street Bath from 8:00 am On Saturday morning. Full details of the event are here with details of off road spectator stage. http://lombardrallybath.co.uk/
  49. 5 points
    I’m running out of small jobs to do while waiting to get my manta back from the bodyshop, easy job this weekend, I want to keep standard spec for the gte so I got the fuel pump bracket powder coated, fuel pump is working so I cleaned it up, sourced a new fuel pressure regulator/ diaphragm damper, and a new fuel filter. I bought new 7mm fuel injection hoses along with 13-14mm stainless steel fuel clips and new rubber padded p clips. This will be fitted in its original mounting location under the car. I have sent the ATE brake servo and master cylinder off to past parts to get refurbished, I’ll post pictures when I get them back. There was a question on here recently about the makers of the manta wheels, Ronal and the lighter make Lemmers, just checked I have a full set of the heavier Ronal wheel. Here they are powder coated and painted polar white 452 and the Opel blitz badge hand painted in, wrapped with Yokohama tyres ready to go.......although it will be a while yet,
  50. 5 points
    After a faff yesterday with my trailer not being fixed managed to borrow from friends brothers body shop A trouble free day after a 7am set off to dropping the car at it’s short term home at the farm with reasonable weather too. The ascona In a lot better state than the pictures show, All usual areas gone but totally saveable and I’m well pleased. It’s probably the best A series I’ve had so far in an original state. And to boot had a load of panels and spares thrown in for a deal. 4 new wings (5 I have now!) x2 new front bumpers a top front panel another boot lid with a good top half. A rotted out door but with glass all the trims are there an ascona A coupe door full rear quarter(which I’ll sell on to recoup for anyone interested) x4 4 spoke revolutions has a set of lowering springs on it. very happy.
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