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Barillo's Achievements


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  1. Hello. Thanks for the caution there and I know its dangerous welding on tanks. Taking proper precautions. The Fuel tanks been emptied, Opened at the sender hole and vented from the top for a good while now. I have a little compressor and will fully blast out any vapours but I can hardly smell any fuel from it now. I do have a cracking little MiG welder which I think will do the job but I never thought of trying using JB weld on a fuel tank. Good Idea though. Same with the Galv strips. Very nice idea & May try that one as its not that much work involved making them up. I'm thinking along lines of putting it thru MOT for a little as possible then Making the car better bit by bit at nights and weekend as I go along after that. Would be great to have it road worthy reliable this Summer/Autumn. Top-end will tell I suppose . As you say basics first. Regards Bar.
  2. Hello Folks. Super GTE advise all being taken in carefully and not done rushed fashion. I am enjoying working and learning about this car at a leisure pace and they really are nice cars to work with. Plenty room for spannering and things are happening. Basic checks first. I'm not planning to start fidgeting with the Air/fuel settings on the Injection system unless I really know what the cause and effect can be. My friend who has the strobe lamp is not back from holiday yet so basically all I did to try and alter the timing was move the pulley marker 3 ml clockwise past timing marker on engine then took dizzy cap off, loosened the adjusting screw and rolled it round just a wee bit so the notches lined up then tightened the screw again. I found when I was rolling the dizzy back and forward a bit it made a clicking sound with the ignition switched on and it did sound like a contact being made & just screwed it down where the click occurred figuring that was it's new timing point set 3 seconds past, so I tried starting the car up again and it was running much better but I think I might have got a bit lucky doing that without lamp. I Only had the manual and forum advice and manual could only say to basically get the timing in the ball park using the markers and notches for the contactless breaker. Also this time I actually fitted the K&N cone on the air unit which likely helped running on an idle too. The Battery , HT leads, Plugs, Rotar arm, Dizzy cap all look good to me as there is a good spark on all leads. I don't know if the throttle flap valve is set correctly yet but I will get round to checking it now that you mentioned it. Brand new intake pipe fitted so that's fine but some of the others are looking a bit perished so I will be doing full leak checks. Once we have the strobe lamp to hand and get the engine running to time it proper what exactly do I do to adjust the markings into line when its all spinning? Another job I am doing just now is mending the fuel tank which was patched up with fibreglass and was slowly leaking away. I wire brushed with power drill the old fibreglass away and will get a proper metal patch welded over the area that's covered with holes. Ideally would like to have it done using a TiG set but its something I do not have. I also need to mend the securing straps with some extra bracers because they look like they could spoil an MOT check and are on the way out. Great stuff. Cheers. Bar
  3. Hello folks. Interesting info about the fuel and engine differences there. Definitely will be adding Redex cleaner to the fuel from now. I started it again today in stationary and it ran & sounded even better almost like you say the motor unclogs and frees up a bit like injectors coming to life . It was idling pretty good but a still bit peaky wally . ( not strobe lamped yet) & still waiting to do a proper Compression test) I found a couple of interesting things when I was looking at the engine running under the hood. When I put my hand on the blue electrical connector for the cold start valve as if to push it on a bit more it made a decent difference to the engine sound and seemed to run better. Anyway a few of the tops of these bosch type pin clip connectors are a bit crap looking, loose and cracked away now and reckon they could do with changing for better electrical contacting. Also noticed big radiator hose leaking quite a bit once engine warmed up so its getting fixed next. Soon checked the price of Cold start valves new and a few other things to do with the system ie switch/sensors/meters etc and found they were hard to find and expensive using BuyCarParts site and eBay as a guide. Does anyone know if you can get just the Cold start valve switch blue top connector half with the locking clip thru it ? Would replace all of these things on this car if I could. I ordered a new temperature sensor on eBay tonight so that's one down but it wasn't too bad coming in at under £15. Seems these are probably worth a punt at changing anyway to save problems down the road. God willing! Thanks for all replies & help. Cheers. Bar
  4. OK I will do that. Out to dinner tonight. Later. bar
  5. Hi Snowy. That's good detailed advice and thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to try and do whatever I can myself with the manual and with my other car friend who gives some good tech advice when we work together. A lot of this stuff is new to me with electronic ignition & engine timing but Its's coming along. Its good to know the car will run on unleaded fuel. Do you have any preference to type Fuel / Rating you use with these cars? Cheers. Bar
  6. Hi Again. I got a bit further in my quest tonight by following the advice you gave me. I set the pulley notch around 3 ml clockwise of the timing marker and then slightly rotated the dizzy round for notch to line up better. I checked condition of all plugs after previous test running and they all seemed pretty good condition. None were soaking in fuel anyway which was good to see. I fitted the K&N cone filter this time & I went to start the motor up and it fired up second go so that was a result. It seemed to sound better this time and after revving and warming the engine for a while I let the throttle off and was able to get out of the car to proper see & hear the engine better because it was idling now but only just on the edge of sounding like it might cut out but it did run on idle itself and although I'm getting closer it still sounds a bit unhealthy & not idling smooth enough yet. I'm Really hoping now Strobe light timing and proper air box set up will be all that's needed but I'm not counting my Chickens yet!! With a bit of luck I may not have to spend too much for this engine to come good for now but I have a couple of questions. My car is a GTE exclusive and I believe it is a late 87 or 88 model which is great . It has under 76000 on the clock which is a big reason why I took it on as a project. What type of fuel would this car have been designed to use? ie 4 star or super unleaded? Also was wondering if I gave this car to a recommended Mechanic with a proper business to tune and dial in some Fuel/Air settings can he just plug in some pro diagnostic equipment to the old ECU computer and find out what the car needs for optimum running? Would it be fairly easy for him to do on an older car and not too expensive?? Just thinking along lines of getting the car ready for road soon without the potential problems that may well arise from a previously unused/abandoned GTE just being brought back to life. Another question is there any recommended stuff I can run thru the fuel system that will really help clean the insides out and perhaps help get rid of carbon deposits? I realise there is a lot of mechanical snake oil out there but some of it has do work somehow?? Regards. Bar
  7. Good man Chris. I am going to print out & follow those directions to the letter and the advise about the timing settings with modern fuels is very handy. My pal lent me a proper Gunson car compression tester which I think are pretty good plus he also owns a strobe tester and he will be back from his holiday soon so we can go through the testing/timing process together. I am going to try and source the original air filter set up back on as I am not sure the previous persons who had this car ever had any success with the K&N kit filter because it was left just hanging off a ragged air intake pipe when I got it and had no proper mounting bracket. The first part I renewed was a new air intake pipe I can only hope and pray that they didn't mess around with any of the more complex parts. For now I will have to make do with the K&N on the airflow meter and make up a metal/rubber bracket to suit until I can source the original full air-box and fittings. First thing will be to adjust the timing as you say and fit the filter to a makeshift bracket. Thanks again for your interest and generosity of knowledge. Its a massive help I can assure you. Regards. Bar
  8. Yes Thanks Ian for that encouragement. I am trying to understand things better by reading up on the Bosch injection system in the Haynes manual which is a very good guide to help fault find but there is just so much to take in technically and I just cannot afford to be throwing new bits and pieces at the car unless its definitely required. I may end up biting the bullet and getting a real old time mechanic to look at it to save time and trouble but first I am going to try myself. Regards. Bar
  9. Hello Folks. Thank y-all for your interest etc. I have been away from the computer for a few days and was awaiting parts to arrive for the GTE. Plus my friend who can help me with cars is away on holiday so its a bit harder to get things done as soon as I would like but that's life I suppose. I fitted the new fuel pump and filter and a new fuel relay and rigged up two auxiliary fuel tanks one being in the boot for the fuel feed and one being on the ground to catch the return fuel. I got the system working using the 2p method first and was satisfied because now it was coming out the return line through the regulator with plenty force this time Thank God. Next thing was to attach the black wires back onto the starter then try and fire it up and YES it did come to life!! I was revving it away and keeping it going on the throttle but it did not sound that good. I was hoping that after a bit of warming up it would settle into an idle but with no throttle it just dies however it can be gunned along but the sounds I was hearing coming from the car were a bit off to say the least. Like lumpy and Knocky. What next I asked myself? Its getting late and the neighbours were getting an earful of this GTE Grunting away. When I tested the engine tonight there was no air filter fitted and the previous owner fitted a K&N which I had left off but its likely to be more of an issue than that. I still need to check the condition of the spark plugs and may well need some advise on fine tuning engine timing and how to fix fuelling / Idle issues with this type of cars injection system. Another thing I still have to do is check compression on all cylinders. I guess my next mission now that the car will start is to make it run smooth and sit running on idle but how? There could be many factors probably involving the injection system or electrical. I do have a Haynes manual and will be checking it out but its much better getting advice on this forum from ones who can explain from real experience. Any help or tips on the next stage would be really appreciated. Thanks & Regards Chris . Bar
  10. Hello Folks. Been away from the computer for a wee while but in tonight I got the GTE started without using Easy-start. My new fuel pump and filter and new relay arrived and got fitted tonight and YES!! It Started!! I had the fuel system rigged up to different temporary tanks because my proper fuel tank needs a welding repair which will hopefully be done soon. I am Happy its running but its not sounding or running correctly and it will not settle down to run at a steady Idle but I can keep it firing along on the throttle. Hopefully its simple repairs required because I am very new to all this injection stuff but its interesting learning. Thanks to all you guys with the tips on the Easystart Bang potion. Kinda dodgy stuff if used incorrectly as I well found out. We live and learn. JUST!
  11. Hi Snowy. That answer makes good sense and a lot safer than what I attempted. I am going to try it again just as you described so soon as I can get a friend to help me start the car. I am currently waiting for a new fuel pump, Filter and relay which is hopefully is on the way soon. Last night I was treating the old fuel tank with wire brush & Neutrarust and discovered it has been slowly leaking. Somebody previously had repaired it using body fibreglass resin of all things and now the stuff is seeping through the resin again. More bloody hassle as a result of an amateur bodge fix. This explains the low fuel levels I had in tank when trying to start it initially. Thanks for your quick help and advise Snowy. Regards Bar
  12. Hi Folks. I am in the process of fixing what i believes to be a fuel flow problem on my Manta GTE Exclusive but want to check if it will run for a few seconds on Easy start to check the ignition / Firing works. I was recommended to do this but my question is this. Do you take off the Mass air sensor inlet pipe and spray direct in past the butterfly valve into the throttle body or would you take the air filter end off and spray past thru the Bosch sensor unit flap valve?? I tried doing this before with my friend spraying direct into throttle body (probably over zealously ) and the stuff Exploded back out on me and with a bit of force too!! I Recommend wearing a welding glove and a visor next time! I had took The fuel tank was out of the car car at this time but there may have been some fuel traces left in the pipes when this happened. This might sound like a bit of a silly question but I would appreciate knowing how this is done by the folks who have done this stuff before. Regards. Bar
  13. Hi folks. Does somebody out there have the smaller round canister type water washer bottle for the Manta GTE Exclusive? Its the type that just clips into place for Exclusive model without extra headlight wiper washers. A working pump included would be bonus welcome too. Thanks for reading. Bar
  14. Hello. Yes I agree there seems to be a fuel flow & pressure issue. I did see the fuel pump work by using the 2p method and filling a wine bottle up from a small Jerry can sitting in the tyre space in the boot with a piece of hose connected to the pump but was not that impressed by the flow coming out into the bottle and kind of expected a more powerful and consistent flow coming out to fill the bottle up quicker but really I just don't know and I am only going by limited experience. the problem was that when i connected the fuel inlet pipe back on to then see if fuel would come out thru the return pipe via the regulator there was nothing coming out so lack of pressure or blockage at regulator it must be. To eliminate doubt and future hassle I ordered a new fuel pump, filter and a new relay and there's possibly a chance of getting a decent fuel regulator from someone on the forum. Another thing I am going to do is check the continuity of the green wire that goes from dizzy cap to the relay/ecu that i believe gives that injection priming signal that you mentioned and that got me thinking about checking that area so Thanks once again. I have some other jobs to do on the Manta whilst I wait for parts such as fit some locks and cleaning up bits and pieces. Will be back to let you know how I get on soon. Cheers. Bar
  15. Hi Folks. Looking for an fuel regulator for a Manta B GTE 1987 . Would consider used . Thanks for looking. Bar
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