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Nivlek2525 last won the day on November 13

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  1. Many thanks Ian. It's getting there slowly.
  2. Many thanks. Those bits at the rear were all done in 1.5mm I think. I bought 2 big sheets of 1.5mm and 2mm and then used my digital calipers from Aldi of all places to match original. I used 2mm at the front from memory to repair the swan necks but Ive since been back and reinforced it all with 1.5mm over the top. I need to finish them and then leave them alone. I'll get some pictures when I'm happy with them. Everywhere else where I found 0.9mm steel I've pretty much replaced with 1.2 as it's a bit easier to weld but still easy enough to cut with snips.
  3. Anyway, this is it all welded in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/fn5JJ7FH5H8tbXf56 Although there's no rust now and there's so much zinc primer there's not likely to be much for a while it probably would have been better and certainly quicker to just weld the whole lot together rather than making pieces up. Still I did enjoy this bit for some reason and I suppose that's the whole point. With that last repair to the rear done I was able to clean everything up, treat any bare metal, prime and red oxide the rear part of the car up to the axle line. https://photos.app.goo.gl/afovRihA8yzCR3pD9 Basically, I went over the whole area and anything suspect I took the powerfile to and ground it back to bare metal bit left any sound paint as I could see no reason to expose metal which had been happily covered for 40 years. Then I used a rust converter. Let that dry. Then I used an etch primer on those spots before painting the whole area with red oxide. Next job it to finish welding up the swan necks where I've added more reinforcement (I just can't leave them alone) and then that the entire bottom finished and I can get it off the spit. If you've got this far..well done. Many thanks. Some of it is neat...some of it is, well...upol gravitex will make it neat.
  4. The I tackled the LAST UNKNOWN quantity on the chassis. There was a small area of corrosion on the rear chassis leg boot support where the two overlap. It looked so superficial I ALMOST left it but I decided to investigate. A small corrosion spot turned into...this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3JjV9AqVwjmdVy2A6 So I tried to remake it as close to as original as possible, first make up some plates profiled to the shape and then cut out the rot. Then weld in the plates, close in the top with another sheet bent to fit and more welding and grinding. I'm quite proud of this but as it looks quite neat. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SqqYP1L8qkeEup3DA I then had to made up the rear section that closes over the top but all I had left was this... https://photos.app.goo.gl/C7uszUnXD9rmHGgy8 But I still managed to get this.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CMdKiLbo7XQE1q3L9 The last picture is taken in the house as I wanted to show my wife what I'd been working on. She couldn't have been less impressed!
  5. I can't believe my last update was May!I knew it had been a while but... Anyway, work has been progressing. Slowly, but progressing. The reason I stopped posting was that I was having to jump from job to job as time allowed and if didn't feel like I had anything to post that I'd completed. Ive complete, or nearly completed a few little tasks so here's a bit of an update. I stripped the front subframe a while back and I've been cleaning, treating the rust, priming and painting and I've got most bits done now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/G7nMJXLn9H2hFSEa9 A few more bits to go but the plan is to have it all ready for when the car can go back on its wheels. When I get sick of welding and grinding I clean and paint. I hate grinding welds back. Seems like such a backwards step... Anyway, about the same time I tackled the front headlamp inner mount area. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rdh4N6U92PpWY1pn8 This is upside down on the spit. The passenger side is fine. The driver's side looked ok but on further inspection it was paper thin so... I made up a new section https://photos.app.goo.gl/9hDhMbzzWib9yhhA8 Which, like any small bits I've made me far longer than it should off. I think I get fixated on trying to get detail right when often a plate would do, look just as good and be far quicker. Then I cut out all the rot, cleaned up all the seems and surface rust and treated the area with converter. I try to leave as much good metal in as possible so I have something to reference. Might not be the best approach but I'm learning as I go here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/b2jMz3vxCXTNvwXL6 Then I cleaned back were the welds go and add weld thru primer and we have this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/iCYGNVcSgEuZswLC7 Then weld and paint. I welded enough to secure it but not so much that it distorted the metal. Basically I plug welded where I could and that ran 1" long welds where old met new. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cD28YCQoooXUALFt6 Not perfect by far but not bad. I've also made some progress on the rear drivers side wheel arch. Same story as the front really. Passenger side was good inside and out. Drivers side, not so good. I removed the outer skin to find the inner lip was paper thin. Which meant I had to try and make a new one. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EoPeWPN6LEAemSY99 I did this by folding an angle in steel, cutting lots of slits into it. Shaping it and then welding all the slits back up again and then grinding everything back. Did I mention I hate grinding welds back? Before I could fit the outer wheel arch I had to repair the inner sill to the front and the boot floor to the rear as well as clean up and soak everything between the inner and outer wheel arch in rust converter. https://photos.app.goo.gl/QNzK7c5j9UoTdVa27 I then had to fit the outer wheel arch skin which was an absolute pain. I used a stepping tool as everything I read suggested this was the way to go, but I really struggles to get the swage lines on either side to line up and the arch to lie right. It took a fiddling but I got it to the point I was happyish. I've only tacked it for now as I'm going to wait until I can get to both sides to I can take some more measurements and profiles before I weld it in for good. So this is the inner arch all welder, cleaned up and zinc primed, then one of it just before fitting with sealer/adhesive in place and finally welded to the inner arch and tacked all around. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TCfynbV1N8f4M5zC6
  6. Mike, that's sounds like a really good price. I'll keep that in mind for when I get that far. The sun roof is in really good condition. The seal I had to force out was in 3 sections like yours. It's now in a few more....but I think with a little bit of super glue it will be ok to go back in. Just a bit old and brittle. There is no rust in the roof due to the sunroof. There is however plenty due to the vinyl roof that trapped water under it. I had to take the sunroof out the get all the vinyl off. Luckily what looked bad around the edge of the sunroof isn't bad at all, will just need cleaning up. Unfortunately, the leading edge of the roof is a different matter. Onwards and upwards. Thanks again.
  7. Mike, many thanks. It was exactly as described. The only problem was the head lining was held in place by the felt/rubber trip I described and that wasn't easy to shift. It was a rubber T shaped trip which was obviously tapped in to place when the roof was fitted. It had little barbs on so didn't want to come back out. I've managed to get it out now.... almost in one piece. Headlining will need replacing. Which isn't the end of the world. The blue colour wouldn't have matched the interior I have. It's in one piece so a decent pattern if I have to have one made. Thanks again for your response. Kelvin.
  8. Afternoon all. A little help needed please with removing the sunroof from my manta. It's a panarama lift out glass roof I'm guessing is about as old as the car. The glass lifts out easy and leaves an aluminium frame and seal fixed into the roof with no obvious fixings. There is a rubber seal which sits between the glass and the frame and a felt closing strip between the seal and the headlining. The only obvious ways of exposing some fittings is to remove the rubber seal which is glued in or to remove the felt trim which doesn't want to come out. So...can they be removed? And does anyone know how? Thanks in advance. K.
  9. No, it's a coupe tank. That's why it's survived I think.
  10. Well Ive just dug mine out of the shed and it's only got one 8mm outlet so definitely a carb tank. It's a shame as it's in excellent condition. I'll pick up the gte tank when I pick up my engine. Can't remember what he wanted for it but it wasn't a lot. Cheers.
  11. Many thanks CIH for the quick reply. I'll take a look tomorrow and see what's what. Cheers. Kelvin.
  12. Evening all, Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a carb tank and an injection tank. My car would have originally had carbs, it's a 1981 SR. However I have a suspicion the car may have had a GTE engine in before I got it. I bought it without an engine and gearbox. If it did have a GTE engine I assume the tank most have been swapped. I've been offered a GTE tank for not too much money but if I already have one I'll spend the money elsewhere. Cheers in advance. Kelvin.
  13. Ian Thanks. I just assumed you would be able to polish it up but that makes sense as a lot of the videos I've watched on YouTube show people finishing it with some sort of clear coat. Do you mind me asking what you will use? Cheers Kelvin.
  14. Ian, is this still enamel you are using? I think I will eventually go this route as my budget won't stretch to paying someone and having followed this I'm keen to give it a go myself. Do you find it takes a long time to dry between coats? Does it need to be totally dry before a second coat? How long before you can wet sand it? Assuming that's what it needs. Cheers.
  15. Looking good Ian. All the lines look much sharper this time. I think it's going to look a different car when you are finished. Well done. I love that front lip. Unfortunately mine is missing or never had one so I need to keep an eye out for one.
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