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Nivlek2525

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Nivlek2525 last won the day on November 13 2019

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About Nivlek2525

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    Rekord

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  • Location
    Whitley Bay
  • Name
    Kelvin

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  1. Ok, that's useful. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Standard o rings probably aren't the way to go then.... I'll order some on line. A couple of places had them listed and they weren't too expensive from memory. It's frustrating. I thought I'd got everything together. Many thanks again. K.
  2. They could well be. They came in the head gasket set and were in the same packet as the inlet seals so I assumed..... That means I need some o rings then as there were none in the kit. Any thoughts on the ones I listed? Thanks for your response. K.
  3. Hope everyone who sees this is healthy and well. Could someone who knows these CIH engines help. I'm just starting to but the head back together. I have valve stem oil seals for the inlets and flat o rings for the exhaust. The problem is the o rings don't fit in the pace the Haynes manual suggest. I.e. in the lower grove in the stem. The flat o ring I have is about 12.5 mm across, the recess in the retainer is about 11mm. I've checked online and others are about 11.5mm. So it looks like the ones I have are a mm too big. My question is: What exactly does that seal do? It doesn't appear to be sealing anything as it doesn't make contact with anything along its stroke. Can I use any o ring assuming the ones I have are no good. Thoughts on using the old ones I took out. They look ok. How critical are they. I have new inlet ones so will obviously use them. This is for the exhaust only. Cheers. Would something like this be ok. Would appear to give me the 11mm I need and I think nitrile is ok in oil???
  4. Thanks again for the advice. The guides seem ok. I think they have been replaced at some point as according to the Haynes manual they weren't brass originally. Anyway, almost no play but valves glide up and down fine. The hydraulic follows all seem flat and are shiny. Camshaft look fine too. Like you suggested I'm going to but it back together. Just need to clean up the block now and replace all the gaskets and seals and then I'll crack on with the bodywork. Cheers. K.
  5. Many thanks. It's getting there. That has a coat of etch, a coat of red oxide and 2 coats of black but then I decided I wanted the underside to contrast the black running gear so I mixed some dark grey and it's had a coat of that. I'll do an update on the build soon. I was just a little concerned that someone in the past had maybe done something wrong as the seats are about 50 to 100% too wide. The heads definitely been apart before. It has bronze valve guides and the tops of a couple of the valves were a little scratched up where someone has struggles to remove the collets I think. The little bit of pitting I couldn't remove from the exhaust valve was also a concern. I'm happy to clean it up and put it back together. I'll put a spark plug in the head and make sure the valves hold petrol before I put the head back on. Have a good weekend both and thanks for the responses. K.
  6. The car is an 81 SR coupe but I bought it as a shell, no engine gearbox, interior etc. I bought the engine from someone with an exclusive who is putting a 20XE engine in so I thought the engine was a late one. When I checked the block number and head stamp it's an early engine so something has been swapped along the was. The engine wasn't expensive and came with loom, manifolds, ECU etc so I've no complaints but it was leaking oil from all over, the water pump is leaking and there's no thermostat in the housing so I'm not wanting to throw money at this engine at the moment. I've checked the big end and main bearings and they look ok so the plan is new gaskets, water pump, thermostat, belts etc and see what it does. I read in an early post that it's a good idea to have an engine in the car that works while you have one on the stand that you build, and I like that idea. I'd like to get it on the road next year for its 40th so I better crack on....
  7. Many thanks, really appreciate the response. This engine is just to get me going and as the whole unit is unknown to me I wasn't wanting to spend a fortune so I'll go with refitting it and see how I go. I've never bothered measuring seat width before and never had any bother. I've just been watching too much YouTube probably.😃 The engine is injection and going in a manta. Thanks for the advice on using an additive, I never considered that I may have removed the built up protection. This is car number 4 so I'll only do 1000 miles a year probably. My long term plan is to use the valves from the 2.4 in a 2L head on a 2.4 bottom end but this is just a pipe dream at the moment and I'm still researching. Thanks again. K
  8. Help please. I've cleaned up my cylinder head and lapped the valves in. When I've done this in the past I've not given much thought to the contact width of the valve seat. Anyway, I've measured the width and compared it to the Haynes manual and they are considerably bigger. On top of that, the exhaust seats have still got some small pits even after being lapped a couple of times. The problem is, the more I lap, the wider the seats will get. This head is not unleaded so I've compared it to a 2.4 head I have lying around which I think has hardened valve seats. I just did a very quick lap to clean them up and the seats on the frontera head are much narrower. The question is, am I being too fussy? Or does the head need machined? Or is it time for hardened valve seats/unleaded head? 2.0 exhaust valve seat. https://photos.app.goo.gl/PWLUHsdpdADMkiaZ7 2.4 frontera ones for comparison. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cQDUArLPoSQu6Kjd9 I'm not trying to use the 2.4 head I just bought it for the aluminium rocker cover. Thoughts please. I'm not trying to make anything fantastic....I just want it to work. Thanks in advance.
  9. Ian, sorry to hear about the set back. It must be very distressing but he sounds like he's in the right hands who have a plan to get him back on track. Easy to say but try to stay positive. All the best and keep us updated when you feel you can. Kelvin.
  10. Just a little update. I sandblasted the 'good' half of the roof again. There are a few sections where tin worm has made some small holes but the surrounding area is still quite think. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pwy6W4Jk9Stcqvyt9 So I decided to try to weld up the small holes and deposit some weld on the thinner material. My thoughts were if it didn't work I can cut it out anyway. Welder on lowest setting and.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/phDSrNbFWKQa7Wyx6 Using compressed air I managed to avoid any distortion. I then used a sharp file to flat them down flush with the shape of the roof to give this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FrP5SzT7pqQvLNFv6 And this https://photos.app.goo.gl/UBZq7SDsTSbeCfdf8 So now I think I have to cut out about half as much as I thought. https://photos.app.goo.gl/h2JmWBLXeTZ1tWBs8 I'm quite pleased with this. There's no rust in the sections I've repaired, they are strong and there's zero distortion. Once finished I'll blast it again and then a skim of P40 filler and it should last year's. Hopefully...
  11. I've just sneaked back into the garage. The spot welds look really easy to see so should make the job a little easier. I think I'm going to do the roof in two halves. If I do the good side first I think I can keep the profile good by taking my time and using the surrounding area to keep the curve right. I can then use the repaired good side as a template when I start cutting out bigger section. Hopefully that makes some kind of sense..... Have a good weekend.
  12. Good idea. The lip on the new section of roof is a bit mangled so I was going to leave the spot welds and seam weld it along the window opening. But I think you are right. A lot less welding if I drill out the welds and reweld them. A lot less distortion as well I think.👍
  13. I know. Really pleased. It could have been a real headache. Should make things a bit easier. Just going to have a little think about exactly how I approached it. All good fun.
  14. With the underside in primer and awaiting warmer weather I've turned to the roof. Today I removed the headlining. I'd peeled back the lining previously but I've stripped it out in one piece so I can get another made. East Kent lists them at £100ish. Then I turned the car over to get a proper look at the roof. https://photos.app.goo.gl/rTevN4BCFtUiwkdk9 It's about how I remember. The passages side is pretty bad the driver's side has more localised holes. I sanded back all the paint and then used a mini sandblaster to remove the rust from the pits to see how bad it really is. The rust doesn't go far around into the window opening and only really extends about an inch back. It looks terrible in the photos but there's a lot of strength there. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wkt9pnjUzdEsc9738 The passager side is worse and clearly just needs cut out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/kdcuttNe6wgXdd6b8 The lad I got the engine off was replacing his sunroof roof with a non-sunroof skin so saved me the front of the old roof. Great lad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZjRdf8eyGPUJPQ8M8 So the question is do I remove a strip along the whole leading edge our do I remove the holes and leave the solid but pitted sections and blast them clean. The thought is why remove original material for the sake of a few pits which will help maintain the shape of the roof when I weld the sections in. As shown here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/j82TkwxV2Ucc9xZRA All thoughts appreciated.
  15. Yes, it's just the inlet has these types of seal. I assume because it's trying to suck into the engine. The exhaust only has an o ring near the end of the valve. Again, as it's blowing out of the engine I guess it's less important. The ones I have will probably be fine but if the others are cheap enough I might just get some. I have a full gasket set from somewhere but no head gasket? I'm not sure how I've managed to use a head gasket but nothing else....
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