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Nivlek2525 last won the day on December 23 2018

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  1. Then I welded the new sections in. I had to make it in two section. The main one is on the outside and then a smaller section to theengine bay side. This actually worked out well because I could weld it from both sides and also check the welds were penetrating ok. Before I can anything out I fixed a 4x2 to the ARB mounts and the fixed legs to brace it off the garage floor to make sure nothing moved. I temporarily screwed the old external chassis panel in place to make sure my new work was the right dimensions and all looks well. Can't upload a photo as I've reached my limit....
  2. It's out! I had to resort to cutting the head off, lovering the subframe down a bit and then it slide out to the side no problem. Not seized in the car at all but the bolt is well and truly seized in the bush. All the penetrating fluid hadn't touch it as it still looks bone dry. The bush is so far undamaged so I'm still only down one bolt. I'll worry about the bush later but it will be a lot easier with it off the car. That's all for a few days. Merry Christmas to anyone reading, and again, thanks for the advice and encouragement. Cheers! I've been making some progress over the last few weeks but it's been slow. I finally finished a couple of jobs today so I thought I'd write it up and share a few photos. I stripped down the subframe mainly to make it easier to store and it came a part no problem which was nice. I may get it blasted or I may just set too with a wire brush in the grinder. Thoughts please. Then I cut out the outer chassis rail larger than the internal rot so I could work out how best to repair it. Then it was a case of making a new inner section out of 2.5ish plate. I got a job lot of zintec' off eBay and I just matched the thinness. I make a card template and the formed a section using a piece of bar with a slot cut in the end and slowly formed the flange. Then dressed it up. Once happy with the fit I cleaned up the existing and soaked everything with zinc primer and let it dry.
  3. It's out! I had to resort to cutting the head off, lovering the subframe down a bit and then it slide out to the side no problem. Not seized in the car at all but the bolt is well and truly seized in the bush. All the penetrating fluid hadn't touch it as it still looks bone dry. The bush is so far undamaged so I'm still only down one bolt. I'll worry about the bush later but it will be a lot easier with it off the car. That's all for a few days. Merry Christmas to anyone reading, and again, thanks for the advice and encouragement. Cheers!
  4. I've not damage anything yet...and although I've not used kerosene I've been soaking them in WD-40 since I got the car a month or two ago. The passenger side came out no problem so I thought I'd cracked it. The driver's side just isn't having it. It turns freely but rotates the steel sleeve and rubber mount and I can't hold it still. If I can't get to it this weekend I might try the kerosene trick. Cheers. Yes, that probably would have helped but my oldest is only 7. Too young for a club hammer? Hi, yes, this is the conclusion I've come to. Big hammer didn't work. Big G-clamp and socket didn't work. Molegrips on the steel bushing didn't work. By the time I decided it needed the grinder it was 11pm and I'm trying to stay in the next door neighbour good books. I'll check out you thread thanks. My next post will be of the subframe remove, hopefully this side of Christmas. Thanks all!
  5. Hi yes thanks. I'll need one if not two of these or something similar. First I need to remove this I've spent two evenings trying to get it out without damaging anything. I've tried everything except heat but it's seized solid in the subframe bushing. I've now decided to cut of the head of the bolt and drill it out. Slow progress but all good fun!!
  6. Hi, there's no engine in the car and I want to paint the subframe so I'll take it off anyway as it's no hardship as long as I can bolt straight in. I'm pretty sure the swan neck I'm working on can be built back up as the rust is localised. The driver's side isn't quite as good and repair panels may be needed. I've not managed to get at it today but should be able to later or tomorrow. I suppose if I can keep one mounting points in its original place it shouldn't matter if I have to cut the other out as I'll still have three points of reference for the frame. Again, many thanks all. K. The first two are the passenger side inside from inside the engine bay, the second two are the driver's side which is worse as the rot is around the mounting point.
  7. Yes, I did thanks. About 2 minutes after I posted mine. A great threat, and just what I was looking for. Thanks for the advice. I'll finish dropping the subframe this afternoon if I can sneak off into the garage unnoticed. Once it's off I'll have a good look at both sides and take some more photos for comment. My main concern is cutting too much out and not being able to get the subframe back in the correct place. At least if I leave those bottom mounts alone I can be pretty sure all will ok with alignment. I'll know better when the frame is off. Thanks again all.
  8. Thanks for the response. I need to get the subframe off to be sure but the rot seems pretty localised. Seems to be a theme with this car.... luckily. I'm using something that is labelled, 'not zintec', for all the repair so far. It has a thin zinc coating. I'm also using lots of rust converter for area of surface rust I can't clean up and soaking everything in zinc primer. yes, I have a good mask, thanks. I don't mind buying replacement panels if I have to but if I can do a good repair on what's there I will. I'll post some more photos with the frame off and the swan neck cleaned up. Cheers.
  9. Just a very brief update before I start the next part of the project. The A-post, floor and inner wing are all welded up now. I ended up cutting some of my work back out as I just wasn't happy but I'm pleased with it now. So...today I started looking into passenger swan neck. The better of the two. I started by cleaning of the underseal and cutting into the chassis. I'd really appreciate any thoughts from anyone reading this. Two sides of the swan neck are really clean. The outer side is completely shot through what looks to be two layers of steel. Towards the bottom there is a third thicker box section that the large subframe bolts through. The box section looks good. I assume if the box section is good I can rebuild the swan neck around it and I should have any alignment issues when I put the sub frame back? Anyway, the rest of the day was spent getting the frame off. I'm pleased I've been soaking everything in WD-40 since I got it. The anti roll bar, shock tops and top subframe mounds were fine. The two large lower bolts were hard work but I've got one out and the other one is free and should tap out like the passenger side. I've looked through the other build threads but if anyone can point be at some good pictures or the swan neck being repaired I'd appreciate it. Always good to know what I'm getting into.
  10. I managed to get a bit more done today and finally started to weld in some new metal. I decided not to use the whole sill as it was solid all along and I could see there wasn't any rust on the inside so I just replaced the section I removed to repair the inside of the A-post. I had to use a number of sections to get the shape. It's not pretty and the welds need dressing back further but it's solid now and all tied back together as it was originally. Very slow work. On to the corner of the floor and then the swan neck......
  11. Many thanks. Doors off! Bit of a pain but managed to make a little tool and with a bit of brut force. The pins are out. Pleased I wasn't working with freshly painted panels.
  12. Hi, temptation got the better of me and I had a dig around under the vinyl...not great news but about what I was expecting. Just as you said, water pooling under the vinyl at the top of the screen. It's not great but looks worse than it is in the pictures I've added to my build thread. Link to build thread if anyone wants to take a look.
  13. Not that much progress this week just some more digging around and patch/repair making. I'm hoping to start letting in some new metal this weekend but it's taking a bit of time working out the best approach. In order to sort out the corner of the floor I have to sort out the bottom of the A post. To sort that I have to take off the end of the sill which exposed an inner skin, which has rotten through. So I've made up the repair patch for the floor as well as one for the A post and one for the inner sill. I've just got to cut out the rest of the rust and work out how to weld the inner sill/A post repair as access is not great. At least I have new sills to use which should make things easier. The plan is still to get the car completely rust free so I'll cut out all the rust and butt weld the repairs where I can. The tech screws are just so I could make sure the repair was making contact with the right places on the outside. I can easily weld up the wholes. I'll take the door off this weekend, mark around the sill so I know how much I can cut out of the outer sill and that should give me better access to the inner metal to clean that up. Some photos of the floor, A post and sill end. And some pictures of the roof under the vinyl. Unexpected but there you go. I'll think of something.....
  14. Thanks It's the start of half term so the kids are demanding my time so not much progress today. Regards the roof. No, the vinyl is coming off and staying off. Theres to little left of the original car to worry about originality. I've not done anything to it yet as I don't what to open up too many fronts at once. I'm trying to be really strict with myself. There are two spots which have swollen up and feel soft but it's hard to tell how bad. One at the front and one at the back both where the stitching is. Only about an inch in from the glass and a couple of inches wide. I thought I might be able to get a couple of repair patches out of a scrap roof which has a factory sunroof as the bits I need will be away from the usual rust. I'm not confident about welding it in tho for the reason you mentioned. I'll cross that bridge when I get there... I'll get the A post done and then it's on the the passenger swan neck. I've had a dig around today and the inner structure has gone as well so there's a bit more work there. The engine I have in mind is the V6 out of the jaguar S-Type. I've had MX-5 for years and it's a common conversion for them. There are lots of lotus 7 kit cars using them now and they are cheap. Less than a £1000 for and engine and manual gearbox and you get a free car to take it home in! I also like the idea of a 2.4 CIH but I'm guessing these are getting rare. I've got plenty to do before I get to engines so I'll continue with the research. I'm off work tomorrow so I'll try to escape to the garage and make a bit more progress. I'll take a few more pictures as a minute to show the general condition of the car. Any thoughts on coatings, primers (zinc?), underseal, etc etc appreciated. I'm really not sure which way to go. Thanks for the encouragement. K.
  15. Hi well spotted. A typo sorry. The car is an SR but really it is just a rolling chassis it's been stripped of everything other than the headlining and the steering wheel. I bought it from a guy in Devon, I'm in the north east, who had been looking for a project and bought this one as although it had some rust it had never had any previous repairs. So what you see is what you get. I must say I'm quite pleased as I had a 10 year old exclusive years ago which was probably in similar condition structure wise. I've heard 121 is better sprayed but I don't have the facilities to do that so I might have to look at alternatives. Thanks for the info.
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