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Nivlek2525

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Nivlek2525 last won the day on June 7

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About Nivlek2525

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  • Location
    Whitley Bay
  • Name
    Kelvin

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  1. If you look about halfway down the first page of my project page you can see the tool I made. The bought ones will probably be better but if you want to crack on they are easy to make. Get some M6 rod or a long bolt. Lock a couple of nuts against each other and put it in a drill chuck and spin it at a decent speed. Use a sharp file to knock the edges off one of the nuts. Down to about 8mm from memory. The bar goes through the centre of the pin. The rounded nut sits on the top of the pin. Then a set of mole grips or similar grab the bar. You can then take your time an tap them out. Probably depends how rusted the pins are. Mine were pretty clean. Hope this helps. K.
  2. Floors. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dV9Qki9rz3ejgnHg7 I've deliberately only done the front. The back is fine and original so I'm leaving it. The front was a bit scabby and I'd replaced the floor at the front of the foot wells so that needed painting anyway. Engine bay. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KF1s5DjCVAWG3k849 Still needs work as there is glue around the bulk head which is a paint to sand off and around the lights and radiator mount need more work. That's it until next weekend so the rust converter will stop it from flashing over.
  3. Thanks all. It's coming along. I'm in no great rush. I don't have enough space or money for another project so might as well take my time with this. I could have done it much quicker if I'd bough swan necks and spring pans etc. and maybe paid someone to media blast the whole car but financially it just wasn't an option. I'll end up painting it myself as well, I've been told I'd be better off savings to have it done 'properly' but I'll never be able to justify it and to be honest I'm quite keen to give it a go. What's the worst that can happen? At the end of the day, it's a toy. I'll hopefully never sell it so what does it matter. If I ever do sell it, someone will get an honest shell that hasn't been messed about with too much and is 90% original. I painted the floor yesterday and cleaned the engine bay, sanded it back and soaked everything in rust converter. I'll add a couple of photos later.
  4. And the car is of the spit and on its rear axle again. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hMdNYbeNgfYadMr26 The front subframe is partly back together but it's easy to work on the engine bay with that out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EncbxLESFoWe8ARb8 The next job is to get a coat of epoxy primer on the engine bay once it is all cleaned up. It currently looks like this https://photos.app.goo.gl/ALjAKbCi2mkEZ4d46 Then I'm going to work my way around the car preping and priming a panel or two at a time. That's all for now. Next update... December, like clockwork 😃. Take care all. Sorry about all the typos...it's late.
  5. Running gear. Axle was stripped and cleaned. Driver's side spring pan was corroded around the lip where the spring sits and where the panhard rod bolts on. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7xndQYJ1yCHD7PjZA As the steel is so think here I found making a repair difficult so I did it in sections first by recreating the centre using the rubber a a guide and the by taking that in place and then reinforcing the whole area. Hopefully it makes sense. It's not the prettiest but it's solid now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/W4jCf6LcGnTUx3PP9 I then removed the reinforcing plate at the back of the panhard rod bolt by drilling out the 4 spot welds, cleaned up the area. Welded in a repair section. Sprayed the reinforcement with zinc primer and replaced the spot welds. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ARQRgAUJHtPHo9h76 I used the panhard bold and another smaller bold to hold everything in the right place. The whole axle was the sprayed in zinc primer and then a couple of coats of black chassis paint. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7M7HKtrd7N2atfJD7 New seals and gaskets. Torque tube cleaned and all bolted up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHF563bmYCa6AkZDA
  6. Time for my 6 monthly update. Hope everyone is surviving ok. Since the last post it's been more of the same. Moving around the car, doing little jobs as time allows. So this makes more sense I'll try to group the jobs together. After priming the underside a used a time of brush on seam sealer on all the welds and panel joints. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mFEqP3M2B2D1Np8i9 I then sprayed the whole underside black. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tL76MDjNov6w1VU26 The plan is to spray the car a dark colour eventually so I though I was save with black. I then decided I didn't like the black as I there would be no contrast with the running gear which would also be black. And in also decided I wanted the final car to be starmist or similar so decided to paint it all again in dark grey. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3qp4TmzVvDU9D6m79 So when the mot tester looks under once a year he'll really appreciate that the chassis and the running gear are different colours....... You'll see in the last few pictures I noticed a few gaps that I thought I should seal up so I bought a tube of seal sealer and sealed those up and sprayed it again. So in total I thing I've about 6 coats of paint on so should be ok for a few years. https://photos.app.goo.gl/w7FJcjGAynUeX3ft8 At the same time I was stripping the GTE engine down, cleaning it, ordering gaskets and generally getting bits together. Some random photos below. I'll do a better update on the engine in due course. https://photos.app.goo.gl/iyeZZxRFtTUt3BrGA Engine bay stripped of everything except the loom which I tied up out of the way. Only rust here was under the battery. It looked a bit scabby but solid but as i cleaned it back it was very perforated and the rear clamp was almost nonexistent. I toyed with just putting a flat plate in and the building a battery tray to site the battery in as the shape here is very complicated. Anyway in the end I made up some patches and it looks ok. It will need a skim of something to smarten it up as there a bit of distortion but once the battery is in it will look ok. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oxcSGzbEHJZQPSz6 I've also been progressing the roof which needed the leading edge replaced. This is looking ok as well. https://photos.app.goo.gl/y9BrNzXBKgsQWg1bA
  7. Ok, that's useful. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Standard o rings probably aren't the way to go then.... I'll order some on line. A couple of places had them listed and they weren't too expensive from memory. It's frustrating. I thought I'd got everything together. Many thanks again. K.
  8. They could well be. They came in the head gasket set and were in the same packet as the inlet seals so I assumed..... That means I need some o rings then as there were none in the kit. Any thoughts on the ones I listed? Thanks for your response. K.
  9. Hope everyone who sees this is healthy and well. Could someone who knows these CIH engines help. I'm just starting to but the head back together. I have valve stem oil seals for the inlets and flat o rings for the exhaust. The problem is the o rings don't fit in the pace the Haynes manual suggest. I.e. in the lower grove in the stem. The flat o ring I have is about 12.5 mm across, the recess in the retainer is about 11mm. I've checked online and others are about 11.5mm. So it looks like the ones I have are a mm too big. My question is: What exactly does that seal do? It doesn't appear to be sealing anything as it doesn't make contact with anything along its stroke. Can I use any o ring assuming the ones I have are no good. Thoughts on using the old ones I took out. They look ok. How critical are they. I have new inlet ones so will obviously use them. This is for the exhaust only. Cheers. Would something like this be ok. Would appear to give me the 11mm I need and I think nitrile is ok in oil???
  10. Thanks again for the advice. The guides seem ok. I think they have been replaced at some point as according to the Haynes manual they weren't brass originally. Anyway, almost no play but valves glide up and down fine. The hydraulic follows all seem flat and are shiny. Camshaft look fine too. Like you suggested I'm going to but it back together. Just need to clean up the block now and replace all the gaskets and seals and then I'll crack on with the bodywork. Cheers. K.
  11. Many thanks. It's getting there. That has a coat of etch, a coat of red oxide and 2 coats of black but then I decided I wanted the underside to contrast the black running gear so I mixed some dark grey and it's had a coat of that. I'll do an update on the build soon. I was just a little concerned that someone in the past had maybe done something wrong as the seats are about 50 to 100% too wide. The heads definitely been apart before. It has bronze valve guides and the tops of a couple of the valves were a little scratched up where someone has struggles to remove the collets I think. The little bit of pitting I couldn't remove from the exhaust valve was also a concern. I'm happy to clean it up and put it back together. I'll put a spark plug in the head and make sure the valves hold petrol before I put the head back on. Have a good weekend both and thanks for the responses. K.
  12. The car is an 81 SR coupe but I bought it as a shell, no engine gearbox, interior etc. I bought the engine from someone with an exclusive who is putting a 20XE engine in so I thought the engine was a late one. When I checked the block number and head stamp it's an early engine so something has been swapped along the was. The engine wasn't expensive and came with loom, manifolds, ECU etc so I've no complaints but it was leaking oil from all over, the water pump is leaking and there's no thermostat in the housing so I'm not wanting to throw money at this engine at the moment. I've checked the big end and main bearings and they look ok so the plan is new gaskets, water pump, thermostat, belts etc and see what it does. I read in an early post that it's a good idea to have an engine in the car that works while you have one on the stand that you build, and I like that idea. I'd like to get it on the road next year for its 40th so I better crack on....
  13. Many thanks, really appreciate the response. This engine is just to get me going and as the whole unit is unknown to me I wasn't wanting to spend a fortune so I'll go with refitting it and see how I go. I've never bothered measuring seat width before and never had any bother. I've just been watching too much YouTube probably.😃 The engine is injection and going in a manta. Thanks for the advice on using an additive, I never considered that I may have removed the built up protection. This is car number 4 so I'll only do 1000 miles a year probably. My long term plan is to use the valves from the 2.4 in a 2L head on a 2.4 bottom end but this is just a pipe dream at the moment and I'm still researching. Thanks again. K
  14. Help please. I've cleaned up my cylinder head and lapped the valves in. When I've done this in the past I've not given much thought to the contact width of the valve seat. Anyway, I've measured the width and compared it to the Haynes manual and they are considerably bigger. On top of that, the exhaust seats have still got some small pits even after being lapped a couple of times. The problem is, the more I lap, the wider the seats will get. This head is not unleaded so I've compared it to a 2.4 head I have lying around which I think has hardened valve seats. I just did a very quick lap to clean them up and the seats on the frontera head are much narrower. The question is, am I being too fussy? Or does the head need machined? Or is it time for hardened valve seats/unleaded head? 2.0 exhaust valve seat. https://photos.app.goo.gl/PWLUHsdpdADMkiaZ7 2.4 frontera ones for comparison. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cQDUArLPoSQu6Kjd9 I'm not trying to use the 2.4 head I just bought it for the aluminium rocker cover. Thoughts please. I'm not trying to make anything fantastic....I just want it to work. Thanks in advance.
  15. Ian, sorry to hear about the set back. It must be very distressing but he sounds like he's in the right hands who have a plan to get him back on track. Easy to say but try to stay positive. All the best and keep us updated when you feel you can. Kelvin.
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