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Nivlek2525

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Nivlek2525 last won the day on December 23 2018

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About Nivlek2525

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    Rekord

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  • Location
    Whitley Bay
  • Name
    Kelvin

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  1. Thanks for the reply. I've had another look and I think it probably can be saved. It's just the very centre that's rotted out so I should be able to form something around the good side and then weld it into the bad. Bad one. https://photos.app.goo.gl/F6CzPGHVogDbSoxH7 Goodish one. https://photos.app.goo.gl/nmwe8Z6NEYL2mrbo7 No idea if it's quiet though as it's not turned a wheel in 10 years as far as I know. It's off the car now so shouldnt be an issue getting a good earth. Really appreciate the offer of the screen. I'm not ready for it yet but good to know they are out there. It sounds like the one you have is the same as the one I have broken. https://photos.app.goo.gl/v9xvtKGWdbUGWStY7 I'm based in the north east but if you still have it when I'm ready for it I'll happily collect. I'm up and down the country all the time with work so shouldn't be a problem. Thanks again.
  2. Ian, I have to say your persistence is an inspiration. I'm off into the garage now. Can't wait to see it finished.
  3. Hi, A little advice please. I broke my windscreen while trying to remove it as part of the restoration. It had a small crack in it before so I was half expecting it. I'll need a new one at some point although there's no rush. I'm just wondering if they are available new or is it just a case of waiting for a second hand one to come up. If it's the later are they generally available or are they getting rare. I.e should I grab the first I see or will it not be an issue? Finally is it worth keeping the cracked one perhaps as a template? Or can I get rid? Assume it would be a fortune to have one made. Also, now the axle is off the car I can see one of the spring pans (think that's the right name) is pretty rotten. It's ok where the spring makes contact but the hole in the centre is really thin and I wouldn't want to put it back on the car like that. Again, theres no rush as I'm a long way off needing it but what are my options? I've seen some replacement pans on a German site for about £100 but I'm thinking a good second hand axle might be just as cheap??? Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks Kelvin.
  4. That's brilliant Evo. Thanks. I notice your pivot points are a bit lower than the other pictures but that could be the glass and doors changing the CoG. Only got an hour on mine this afternoon so just got it a bit higher in the air and had a bit of a clear out. Spinning next weekend hopefully. Thanks again, much appreciated. I like the Rawl bolts idea. Looking forward to working at a comfortable height and not having to crawl under it for a while.
  5. Mike, thanks. Very much appreciated. It will be next week before I get back on it now unless, I can get a few hours tomorrow. I'll do as you say and post some pictures when I get done. Cheers.
  6. Thanks it would be really helpful if you could let me know roughly where the balance points are to get it spinning right. I've looked at a few pictures and for a stopped car, no doors, boot, bonnet etc it looks to be about 100mm above the mounting points at the front and the back. I guess there is a lot more weight in the floors and chassis legs than there is in the top half of the car. These are a couple I found in the forum which gives a good idea of where the centre of gravity is.
  7. Thanks for that Evo. I'll build it around the bumper mounts and if I think it needs any more I'll tie it into those tow points. Cheers.
  8. Many thanks for the response. I'll do just that. Cheers.
  9. Help needed. I've completed stripped the car of all the glass and dropped the front subframe and rear axle so now I have just the shell. I want to get it up on to a spit/rotisserie I'm making but wanted to check on the best rear mounting points. I've searched the forum and it looks like others have used the rear bumper mounting points. Is this ok? It's only one skin of metal where these holes are. Do I need to do anything to the inside to strengthen it? Cheers.
  10. I've just sat and read through your restoration. A stunning car! A huge task but beautifully done. Well done.
  11. Thanks bris jas, there was a good post on here somewhere recommending the box section. It's cheap and exactly the right width. I just inserted in in until it reached the top subframe mount and put loads of plug welds in and then spliced it into where the lower mount is and seam welded it there. I got really lucky as there is no real deterioration of the inner material from the lower mount back so I didn't have to remake those mounts. All being well, the subframe should bolt straight up. The passenger side is done inside and out. I've only replaced the inside on the driver's side so far as the car is hard up against the wall. I could move it away from the wall now the box section is in but to be honest I'd much rather get it flipped over as I think I'll make a neater job. I need to drop the rear axel and take the rear screen out but after that I might just get it up on the rotisserie. I don't think it will move as everything else is pretty solid in that area. I think I'll get more done if I'm not having to crawl under it every time. I'll check out your build if it's on here. Cheers.
  12. https://photos.app.goo.gl/22K7miy9zRHX4N1t8 I reached my storage limit and I'm sorry to say I lost motivation to update the thread. Anyway, work has been progressing albeit slowly. Polar white and rust operates at about 10 times the speed I do! Above is a link to the driver's side chassis leg outer repair panel I made. Took ages but looks ok. Probably a lot easier in the long run to buy the panel. Can't seem to find a photo of it installed, bit it is. I had to unpick the jacking point a little to make it fit but is solid now all the way back. I also managed to get the windscreen out. It was cracked before I started and the crack is terminal now so I need a new windscreen but I did manage to do a little repair on the B post https://photos.app.goo.gl/exyiThnTGUW8nycN8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/6eSJ1DqApPvxv84G8 Also cut out the driver's side swan next. The inner structure was shot here so following advice I found on here I remade the bad section out of 40x40mm box section and tied that in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cFvn2grFt5nCgdQX7 I'm going to have a break from working under the car and maybe have a look at how much damage is really under that vinyl roof.... Advice if anyone is out there. With the swannecks done do you think it would be ok to put it on a rotisserie? It would make working on the underside so much more pleasant?
  13. Then I welded the new sections in. I had to make it in two section. The main one is on the outside and then a smaller section to theengine bay side. This actually worked out well because I could weld it from both sides and also check the welds were penetrating ok. Before I can anything out I fixed a 4x2 to the ARB mounts and the fixed legs to brace it off the garage floor to make sure nothing moved. I temporarily screwed the old external chassis panel in place to make sure my new work was the right dimensions and all looks well. Can't upload a photo as I've reached my limit....
  14. It's out! I had to resort to cutting the head off, lovering the subframe down a bit and then it slide out to the side no problem. Not seized in the car at all but the bolt is well and truly seized in the bush. All the penetrating fluid hadn't touch it as it still looks bone dry. The bush is so far undamaged so I'm still only down one bolt. I'll worry about the bush later but it will be a lot easier with it off the car. That's all for a few days. Merry Christmas to anyone reading, and again, thanks for the advice and encouragement. Cheers! I've been making some progress over the last few weeks but it's been slow. I finally finished a couple of jobs today so I thought I'd write it up and share a few photos. I stripped down the subframe mainly to make it easier to store and it came a part no problem which was nice. I may get it blasted or I may just set too with a wire brush in the grinder. Thoughts please. Then I cut out the outer chassis rail larger than the internal rot so I could work out how best to repair it. Then it was a case of making a new inner section out of 2.5ish plate. I got a job lot of zintec' off eBay and I just matched the thinness. I make a card template and the formed a section using a piece of bar with a slot cut in the end and slowly formed the flange. Then dressed it up. Once happy with the fit I cleaned up the existing and soaked everything with zinc primer and let it dry.
  15. It's out! I had to resort to cutting the head off, lovering the subframe down a bit and then it slide out to the side no problem. Not seized in the car at all but the bolt is well and truly seized in the bush. All the penetrating fluid hadn't touch it as it still looks bone dry. The bush is so far undamaged so I'm still only down one bolt. I'll worry about the bush later but it will be a lot easier with it off the car. That's all for a few days. Merry Christmas to anyone reading, and again, thanks for the advice and encouragement. Cheers!
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