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Everything posted by Nivlek2525

  1. Bolt arrived today. Thanks again Jonathan. Really appreciate it. I just need to build a car to use them on...
  2. Brilliant, many thanks for this. K.
  3. I'd like to buy a couple please if you could post them. I'm in no rush. I have one but I had to cut the other to drop the sub frame and may as well have a matching pair. It will save me trying to source them. Just let me know what you need for them. Thanks. K.
  4. They have 2x 20E pistons as well. 1x0.5 and 1x1.0 oversized. I emailed but they definitely only have what's listed. Shame. Super cheap.
  5. It looks like there are some good value 2.2E pistons on ebay. They don't specifically say CIH but the bore looks right. £30 each? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PISTON-FOR-VAUXHALL-CARLTON-SENATOR-22E-ENGINE-2-2-1984-1986-OVERSIZE-/152090341206?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  6. I'd me interested to know what you've found, how much and from where thanks.
  7. This is a picture from mantadany.de he has an i2800. The eBay ones look similar to these but the rears look different to me. I could be wrong tho. The i2800 ones look much thinner at the 12 o clock position.
  8. Excellent updates as always H. Many thanks.
  9. You'll find lots of answers on here, just ask. I'll not be much help as I'm normally the one doing the asking!! Best of luck.
  10. Great info Herman, Using my crude method I got the XR2E measurement close at 50cc. I was quite far out on the x24, I measured 53. A syringe isn't the.most accurate way to do it I guess. Many thanks. K.
  11. Hi Andy. Stage one is 2.4 head on a 2.0 block. My 2.0 head is leaded and one of the valves won't seat 100%. I have the 2.4 head sitting unused and it's unleaded. So I'm just trying to make it work and maybe get a slight advantage over a standard 2.0 head with bigger valves and a better flow. I think I can make it work with very little outlay. I'm just not sure whether to get it skimmed or not to raise the CR. Any spare money is being spent on the car at the moment. Once that is finished I can then start savimg to put money into an engine build. You never know, a really low mileage, one careful owner 2.4 frontera might turn up🤣. Cheers J I'm convinced. I guess I can always take it off later....a lot harder to add back on. Really helpful 👍 I'll use the money to order the aluminium for the spacers. Thanks. K
  12. Thanks Andy. I think I've read through most of your website now. It's very good and really informative. I had the same chain tensioner guide issue you had. Because I'd read through your site I knew what it was straight away. I meant to say thanks at the time. Thanks J Would you leave the head standard and not skim it? As I said I was just trying to get back to the 9.4 to 1 the GTE would have had so that I wasn't taking one step forward and one back. K
  13. I mocked this 10mm spacer up out of hardboard just to make sure it is possible. It's really rough but I just wanted to get a feel for what it would look like. I'm happy I can make something suitable out of 10mm aluminium. I'll also need an equivalent spacer to apply pressure on the exhaust manifold. 10mm is just enough to get over the 2.4 dowel and I can add another dowel to the spacer to match up with the 2.0 gasket and manifold. The ports are about the same overall height but the 2.4 ones are wider apart so the spacer just needs a slight taper to match up. It's not actually that much. Cheers all. https://photos.app.goo.gl/nFvfXJUfwgExLqGm6
  14. Many thanks, I've just sent you a message. Please let me know if you don't get it. Cheers.
  15. Thanks both, really appreciate the response. My thoughts were if I do go down the 2.4 route I'd try to start with a complete set up from a running frontera. In that case I'd have the head from that engine. If I decided to use the head I have for a 2.4 build then the skim raised the CR to about 9.7ish to 1 as the frontera is standard at 9.2 therefore I didn't feel like it was wasting or ruining the head for future use. You are right, I was very much focusing on static compression ratio and trying to get it back to standard. I may need to do a little more reading. The plan was to use the existing inlet manifold for now but mounted higher up on a spacer plate matching the 2.4 head to the 2.0 inlet. Again, this is described on OpelGt in a bit of detail an feels like something I could do myself with little outlay. I think you may even be able to buy them. I have to admit I've not given too much thought to the thermostat housing. With regards to the Vernier they are about £170 where as I think I can modify the pulley myself and buy the bushings for £20. So there is a bit of a different but agree it would make a good upgrade. This is just something to keep me interested over the winter, with very little outlay and to allow me to try out some of the things I've read about on the forums. If it doesn't work, then it's not the end of the world. Maybe it's worth mocking up the head before committing to machining it down to see if I can get everything to hand together. Many thanks both. K.
  16. Hello all, Not sure if this should go here or in the engine section. Please let me know if it should be somewhere else. I've been struggling with a standard, non-unleaded cylinder head. I've got one valve I just can't get a 100% seal on. With a 100psi in the cylinder I can hear it passing slightly. I'd decided to wait for a later unleaded head but in the meantime I've been doing a lot of reading on here and on the OpelGt forum. Anyway, I have a 2.4 head with bigger valves and high ports and I understand it is possibly better flowing. However the larger combustion chamber lowers the CR when stock So I've measured the combustion volume on both (see pictures) and I get GTE volume 50cc and 2.4 volume as 53cc. This is quite crude as I can only measure to the nearest cc. First question is can anyone confirm or offer better/factory figures? Secondly I've estimate the CSA of the combustion area tracing it with graph paper and counting up the squares. I get 51.6cm² Second question, can anyone provide a better value? I calculate that to lower the volume of the 2.4 by 3cc I need to take 0.58mm off the head or 23 thou. Would anyone like to check my maths? I spoke to the machine shop today and he didn't see any problems physically removing this much. Q3 Since I need to deal with cam timing would anyone suggest removing any more? Is a CR of 9.4 about right? Finally, the Cam gear has an effective radius of 58.5mm which means a skim of 0.58mm will retard the timing by 0.57 degrees...I think. Rallybob has a number of posts suggesting that advancing the timing a little is a good thing on these engines. About 3 deg is mentioned. Therefore retarding the timing at all doesn't sound good. He had a great post about drilling out the locating hole on the cam gear and using offset bushings as a DIY friendly way of advancing the timing, so that's the plan. As always, any thoughts or experience appreciated. Head is booked in for Friday to be skimmed and for 40 quid I think I'll give it a go as a little project. The worst that can happen is I'm out £40 but I could end up with a big valve unleaded head and learn a few things along the way. Photos and calcs https://photos.app.goo.gl/3nafT3pqwjwVMsPS8 DIY adjustable cam. https://www.opelgt.com/threads/source-for-cam-vernier-sprocket.26749/page-3 Offset bushings https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281727256845 cheers all K
  17. Pleased you are on the mend Herman. Take it easy though. The more I read the more options I realise there are...
  18. Many thanks. Looks like he only has 3 but shows that everything turns up on eBay eventually. Cheers, I'm getting the impression 2.4 are expensive to rebuild if they need it. I thought they were just a stroked 2 litre engine but apparently it's not quite that simple. I've managed to get the valves to seal on my engine over the weekend so they weren't bent just worn and not properly seated. My error. It's clearly very worn but it will do for now I think. I'll explore the options. I did wonder about putting hardened seats in my head but open them up to take the larger frontera valves? I appreciate the head would need some work to take advantage of the bigger valves but might be interesting. Focus needs to go back on the car for now. There's still plenty to do there first. Thanks again 👍
  19. Hi Herman, hope you are well. I've looked at the options and this is just to expensive for me at the moment. The cheapest pistons I can see are about £650 + labour + unleaded head etc etc. I need to get the car right first. I may get this kind of work done at some point but maybe on a 2.4 rather than a 2 litre. I think a good, proven used item is the right option for me now. But not until.the new year. I need to get on with bodywork, I've let myself get distracted. Cheers. K
  20. Yep, but the bores are worn more than I would like so I think another lower mileage unit is the way forward. The only reason I'm still planning to spend any time on it is because its all apart and I'm interested to see what happens. I'll look for a new engine in the new year. There are some decent parts on it to keep as spares so nothing lost really. If I continue to grind the pits out of the current seats there will be no seats left😀.
  21. Thanks, I did that on a flat work top. The part of the stem that is the same diameter all the way down is flat/straight, I'm happy with that. I just thought the valve head was off square ever so slightly bit I think I'm seeing things. Yes, I think the engine has a lot of miles on it. As I said above, I'll try to seat the valves just to see if I can get it up and running but realistically I was never happy that this was going to be right engine for the car. I've spent a long time getting the car as good as I can get it, I want the engine to be right as well.
  22. https://photos.app.goo.gl/nwusvTTqnnkLtZsF9 Just for info. Thought I'd add a couple of pictures of the valves for reference. The first two are the inlet and exhaust from the GTE engine and the second 2 are from my 2.4 head for comparison. Obviously I've never cleaned up the 2.4 but the inlets look very different, the exhausts look similar actually. I bought the 2.4 head ages ago for the aluminium rocker cover as it was one a few quid. I also thought I might be able to do a big valve head by either using the valves or getting the head skimmed down and using a Vernier gear to correct the timing. So far it's donated a couple of retainers which I lost when taking the 2L head apart.😬 Cheers.
  23. Thanks CIH. My engine is a GTE and I intend to run it on injection, but you are right, the car would have been carbs. I just bought a full GTE engine, loom, manifolds etc. I've had another look this afternoon and I'm less convinced the valves are bend and more convinced they aren't seated. When I ground them in originally I noted that the landing width was well over spec. Someone has really gone to town in the past and yes, they were all as bad as each other really. not curved but very wide contact surfaces. This, together with the worn bores and rings I'm inclined to just park it and wait for the right engine to come up. I'm in no rush as I have a ton of bodywork to do and it will be easier to pick something up once this lockdown business is over. I've let it distract me from the main job to be honest. I'll spend an hour tomorrow grinding them in again and see if I can get a seal. The engine was never going to be great but I hoped I could use it the get the injection set up and check the gearbox, axle etc. I paid a £100 for the engine complete with everything down to the ECU so it doesn't owe me anything really and I've enjoyed pulling it apart and doing research. I was just hoping I could get it going for a bit of a shake down of the car when the time comes. A decent P2E engine or 2.4 frontera engine will turn up next year. I know of one 2.0L where I got some other things from so might be able to get that. Again, really appreciate the advice. Have a good Saturday.
  24. Both valves look ok and feel ok when rolled on a flat surface. The actual stem of the valve is straight against a straight edge. I used marker to colour in the contact surfaces of the valves and turned them a few degrees against each other to see where the market was removed. Exhaust looks ok so not sure what the issue is there. Perhaps it needs lapping in again. The imlet, not so good. Doesn't remove the marker evenly around the seat. I made a very crude jig up to see if that indicated anything and to me it's obvious the head of the valve isn't square to the stem. See photos. So possibly one bent valve and one needs ground in again? https://photos.app.goo.gl/nq59HinvR85PqnB67
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