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Nivlek2525

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Everything posted by Nivlek2525

  1. No, it's a coupe tank. That's why it's survived I think.
  2. Well Ive just dug mine out of the shed and it's only got one 8mm outlet so definitely a carb tank. It's a shame as it's in excellent condition. I'll pick up the gte tank when I pick up my engine. Can't remember what he wanted for it but it wasn't a lot. Cheers.
  3. Many thanks CIH for the quick reply. I'll take a look tomorrow and see what's what. Cheers. Kelvin.
  4. Evening all, Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a carb tank and an injection tank. My car would have originally had carbs, it's a 1981 SR. However I have a suspicion the car may have had a GTE engine in before I got it. I bought it without an engine and gearbox. If it did have a GTE engine I assume the tank most have been swapped. I've been offered a GTE tank for not too much money but if I already have one I'll spend the money elsewhere. Cheers in advance. Kelvin.
  5. Ian Thanks. I just assumed you would be able to polish it up but that makes sense as a lot of the videos I've watched on YouTube show people finishing it with some sort of clear coat. Do you mind me asking what you will use? Cheers Kelvin.
  6. Ian, is this still enamel you are using? I think I will eventually go this route as my budget won't stretch to paying someone and having followed this I'm keen to give it a go myself. Do you find it takes a long time to dry between coats? Does it need to be totally dry before a second coat? How long before you can wet sand it? Assuming that's what it needs. Cheers.
  7. Looking good Ian. All the lines look much sharper this time. I think it's going to look a different car when you are finished. Well done. I love that front lip. Unfortunately mine is missing or never had one so I need to keep an eye out for one.
  8. Ian, this is really starting to look great. Well done.
  9. Excellent effort Ian. Keep it up. The last one covered in newspaper looks a little bit like a Dodge Challenger. To me anyway. Making some good progress on my own. I'll update soon. I' m not as dedicated as you on the car or keeping the post up to date.
  10. Cheers Ian, will update with some photos as I progress. I love bank holiday weekends!
  11. Cheers, yes there's a small repair to do inside where the jacking point meets the chassis rail. It looks quite localised. Water has gotten under the sound deadening. Plus side is it came off a treat (gravity helped😀), down side is there a couple of repairs to do. Nothing that requires the removal of the jacking point I don't think. I'll take some pictures and post them up. Feel free to use the gaffer tape method, my gift to the world.🤗
  12. Cheers H. My older brothers all had triumphs, I thought this was good in comparison 😀
  13. A few jobs done on the driver's side. On the whole it's about the same condition as the passenger side. The back wheel arch is worse but the foot well and A post are better. On the whole not to bad. Mid chassis rails are mint as are the jacking points so can't complain. A few photos of a hole in the boots before repair. The cars upside down in the following pictures. https://photos.app.goo.gl/uBJsnme4BqaVM6BWA I cut out and replaced the structure that runs up into the boot. Seam welded isn't pretty but its strong and will never be seen. You can also see the small repair to the wheel well. I've tried to keep everything looking original which has meant making lots of small repairs up as the shapes are quite complicated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6SWqZKM2xwJ3RbyM8 Then I made a repair panel for the inboard side of the repair above. Joddled/joggled/flanged? The edge and spot-welded in place. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LtcqccKUagbyimQb9 Everything is plug welded or seam welded in place with zintec and galv primer. I can't to the rear wing repair yet as the outer wheel arch is too far gone so I need to buy a repair panel and then see what is left to repair. I think they are about £40. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pU7UoiriF2pkjMXc8 Next I moved onto the sill. So much easier with the car turned over. And having done the other side I know what to expect. Sill as found. https://photos.app.goo.gl/rjNuCunaMLz4zeWw6 And with the filler and rot sanded away. https://photos.app.goo.gl/87rmZFXkmj9PjSSs8 And then with the previous repair cut out. They seem to have made the repair up with multiple small bits of metal. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gneZyZKmB4LLZxfV9 Again, no real problem with the inside. Got lucky again so just needs the outer sill section put back on. Still to do. The sill is in the rafters and I couldn't be bothered to get it out so I moved onto the foot well. As found. https://photos.app.goo.gl/r3VT96z7rm3besvPA Two repair sections needed. Cardboard, tape etc and then this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mAbXCJh7voiHQ9Se6 And then the complex bit that ties into it. Again, I made a template out of gaffer tape, transferred it to card to see where to bend, stretch, shrink, bash, etc, then transfer to steel. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pzso7xip28cw6Gmw6 Once happy the basic shape is there then an hour with my new Trevor's Blog approved planishing hammer, a few tech screws and the original panel as a buck got me this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ofYRzrZp8yge6XnS8 A pretty good fit and reasonably true to the original. I'm pleased with these last few repairs. I've got Sunday to myself which will see all this welded in and I'll share some photos. Nearly there with the underneath. Better start thinking about that roof repair around the screen. Cheers all. K.
  14. Cheers, much appreciated. I've done a fair bit since but I'm terrible at keeping the posts up to date. I'll update soon.
  15. Many thanks Andy. I read through your blog the other night. Great effort. I've also looked at the pictures which I think makes sense. I need to source a 5 speed box and do some measuring but I really appreciate you confirming that it can be done which is that main thing I was after. I'd love to read a full write up if you get around to doing it. Thanks again K
  16. Thanks Andy, The subframe is off now as I'm working my way around welding up the underneath. In fact the car is currently upside down so I'll do as you suggest. I was originally going to fit a bigger engine as my car was just a shell when I bought it but I've read lots about what you can do with the cih engine and thought I'd give that a go. A GTE engine came up and there was a 2.4 head next to it. The lad told me it wouldn't work, but of course I knew better... Rocker cover isn't the same as that unfortunately. It's marked up 2.4 on the top but I thought I could maybe remove that and just make it plain. Really appreciate any guidance on the gearbox. The shell is in good shape and I'd rather not cut I to the tunnel is I done need to. Also I quite like the idea of it looking like a 4 speed. If it's just the inlet that's nighter and I run carbs, would that work do you think? Would I still have a compression issue? Thanks again.
  17. Thanks Evo I have two 4 speed consoles and a 5 speed console. The 4 speed is black so won't match the interior but being black it might look ok. If not I'll maybe spray it? Shame about the 2.4 head. I thought I'd heard they were better flowing heads so snapped it up. Not the end of the world. It has a nice alloy rocker cover which I might be able to use. Andy Thanks, this is exactly what I'm thinking about. If you could take a photo or two so I can work out what I need to do that would be great. I still need to source a 5 speed box but I have an engine and 5 speed propshaft sorted so I'm getting there. I'm just planning so I can roll straight on with the mechanical stuff once I'm finished with the structural repairs. I'll look at those links now. Thanks again. Kelvin
  18. Help please. I've read thought previous posts so I know this has been covered before but I'd really appreciate some details if anyone has them. I'm looking at potential fitting a GTE cih engine in my manta possibly with carbs and a cam. I've also managed to source a 2.4 head but I don't know if I can use that yet. Anyway, my car would have originally had a 4 speed box so has the 4 speed tunnel. I know I can cut out the tunnel and install a 5 speed tunnel or modify my tunnel. However, I've read that the 5 speed box can be modified by shortening the linkage (or shortening something) so that the 5 speed will enter the car through the 4 speed hole. This is referred to on a number of posts but the detail either isn't there of the photos are gone. So, can anyone tell me, preferably with a helpful pic or two, how to make a 5 speed work with a 4 speed tunnel. Also, is the 2.4 head I've been offered of any valve to a 2.0 engine? Many thanks all. Kelvin.
  19. They look very similar to my car. The inner steel may be more corroded than the outside but you have to cut away the outside to repair it. I repaired one side of mine and replaced the other side with 40x40 box section. I've still to fabricate the outer part to make it look as it did. I don't think I would go that route again. I think H-400 approach is a much smarter job and probably a lot quicker. You live you learn as they say. If you decide to repair them buy some 14g steel for the inner sections. I think it's only 16g from new but the extra strength can't hurt. There's also a much heavier internal steel around the bottom subframe mount. Luckily mine had survived, looking at the pictures, yours may be ok too. You can just see it in your bottom picture. All good fun.
  20. Ian Excellent effort as always. I hope you don't mind me offering a bit of advice which you probably know anyway. I found that a long flexible straight edge real helps when trying to flat out large panels. I use a piece of hardwood ripped at about 1mm. Put lots of filler on and then bend the hardwood to the curve of the panel and pull it across. It takes of the high spots and shows the low spots. I struggled for days on my last project on a badly creased front wing but found an advert on YouTube for a 'blade'. I just made my own as described. Also, I found a dusting of black spray as a guide coats helps find the high and low spots. Anyway, you're doing great and I can't wait to see it finished. Skip forward to 8 mins and it shows a nice demo.
  21. Getting there, but still a long way to go!
  22. Took a while but the car is on its spit and it's a lot more comfortable to work on. Sill cleaned up and cut out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/j96EbGthtbWBfQgY6 Only needed a small patch added to the bottom of the lip where it connects to the outer sill. Flux core makes everything look dirty/rusty but cleans up again ok. Rust converter and weld thru primer and then fit the outer sill. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyHQuHVNRxMntK1t9 This took me ages. I must have taken it on and off 20 times and couldn't decide where to cut. In the end I repaired the bottom of the B post where it returns into the door opening remaining the original flange and then cut the new sill short of the door opening because the repair panel had a different radius to the door opening. I hope that makes sense.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/7hiCRaHLRERxKHhj8 this one probably explains it better. I really took my time and welded in little spots at a time. There was no distortion at all, until I ground it back. Lesson learnt, grinding causes heat too! Still not too bad and might be able to tap it out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gFKJxavYnF77nsuF9 I cleaned up the wheel well and the arch is really good. This car has been soaked in waxoyl or similar in the past. The only corrosion was to the seat belt mount so I cut it out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sRca4XySPH79cDd1A And made a new plate with a flange so it sits flush on the inside of the car. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GPuxUhEKArfGFcgUA Spot the deliberate mistake? https://photos.app.goo.gl/4CNKjq2ckwa3QTZk7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/CwAAecFJaZwGPcLt9 This is the only picture I can find with the mount in place. Spot welded first, then seam welded around the outside for strength. You'll see I was a bit out with some of my spot-weld holes on the sill so I need to drill more and weld these up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GtvH9BpCaAduBArP6 Powerfile is my new favourite tool. A couple of the wheel arch once cleaned up. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AkRR26yCHRq8ztMr7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Aagzu5FLVB9Ukpuq6 And the one small repair required at the back. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xX7YnjhTdDgTp43BA And after repair https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oemCUZiRatmHGFn8 Inspired by the condition of the wheel arch I washed down the rest of the underside with white spirit and I'm chuffed that the waxoyl has done its job. There are a load of photos of the underside in the link below. Once the waxoyl was off the original paint was exposed. There are a few little spots to sort out but I'm happy there's not a huge amount to do here. Makes up for the mess I found under the vinyl roof. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tDoh5Hf3HEjDHMaj6 On to the other side soon.
  23. Yes, the rust was just between the middle sill and the outer wing. The bottom was solid. The whole car is pretty good apart from a few spots which are pretty bad. There's underseal everywhere which makes me think it's been looked. The rear of the sills are then only previous welding and to be honest, it wasn't great. This is what I found when I ground it back. So I'm sure, the bit highlighted needs tied back to the inner sill near the bottom.
  24. Yep, thanks that makes sense I think. When I did the front I tied the A post back as you've said above. I just plated between the two. Then I read somewhere that they just hung down originally. I'll do as you suggest. It's just tricky because that bit has rusted out further up than either the middle sill or the outer sill/wing. I'll think of something. Cheers.
  25. Hi. I've cut out the rust from the passenger side rear sill at the bottom of the B post. The inner sill is solid. The middle sill isn't too bad but I need to make a bottom lip for some of it. The outer is getting replaced with the Hadrian panel that came with the car. Question is, what to do with the bottom of the B post that hands down. I've read elsewhere that these were never tied in with the sill. Can I just cut out the rot and forget about it or does it need tied in. I'll have to cut a lot more rear wing out if I go that way so the preference is to just cut it out but wanted to check. Thanks.
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