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Everything posted by Nivlek2525

  1. Ian, sorry to hear about the set back. It must be very distressing but he sounds like he's in the right hands who have a plan to get him back on track. Easy to say but try to stay positive. All the best and keep us updated when you feel you can. Kelvin.
  2. Just a little update. I sandblasted the 'good' half of the roof again. There are a few sections where tin worm has made some small holes but the surrounding area is still quite think. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pwy6W4Jk9Stcqvyt9 So I decided to try to weld up the small holes and deposit some weld on the thinner material. My thoughts were if it didn't work I can cut it out anyway. Welder on lowest setting and.... https://photos.app.goo.gl/phDSrNbFWKQa7Wyx6 Using compressed air I managed to avoid any distortion. I then used a sharp file to flat them down flush with the shape of the roof to give this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FrP5SzT7pqQvLNFv6 And this https://photos.app.goo.gl/UBZq7SDsTSbeCfdf8 So now I think I have to cut out about half as much as I thought. https://photos.app.goo.gl/h2JmWBLXeTZ1tWBs8 I'm quite pleased with this. There's no rust in the sections I've repaired, they are strong and there's zero distortion. Once finished I'll blast it again and then a skim of P40 filler and it should last year's. Hopefully...
  3. I've just sneaked back into the garage. The spot welds look really easy to see so should make the job a little easier. I think I'm going to do the roof in two halves. If I do the good side first I think I can keep the profile good by taking my time and using the surrounding area to keep the curve right. I can then use the repaired good side as a template when I start cutting out bigger section. Hopefully that makes some kind of sense..... Have a good weekend.
  4. Good idea. The lip on the new section of roof is a bit mangled so I was going to leave the spot welds and seam weld it along the window opening. But I think you are right. A lot less welding if I drill out the welds and reweld them. A lot less distortion as well I think.👍
  5. I know. Really pleased. It could have been a real headache. Should make things a bit easier. Just going to have a little think about exactly how I approached it. All good fun.
  6. With the underside in primer and awaiting warmer weather I've turned to the roof. Today I removed the headlining. I'd peeled back the lining previously but I've stripped it out in one piece so I can get another made. East Kent lists them at £100ish. Then I turned the car over to get a proper look at the roof. https://photos.app.goo.gl/rTevN4BCFtUiwkdk9 It's about how I remember. The passages side is pretty bad the driver's side has more localised holes. I sanded back all the paint and then used a mini sandblaster to remove the rust from the pits to see how bad it really is. The rust doesn't go far around into the window opening and only really extends about an inch back. It looks terrible in the photos but there's a lot of strength there. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wkt9pnjUzdEsc9738 The passager side is worse and clearly just needs cut out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/kdcuttNe6wgXdd6b8 The lad I got the engine off was replacing his sunroof roof with a non-sunroof skin so saved me the front of the old roof. Great lad. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZjRdf8eyGPUJPQ8M8 So the question is do I remove a strip along the whole leading edge our do I remove the holes and leave the solid but pitted sections and blast them clean. The thought is why remove original material for the sake of a few pits which will help maintain the shape of the roof when I weld the sections in. As shown here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/j82TkwxV2Ucc9xZRA All thoughts appreciated.
  7. Yes, it's just the inlet has these types of seal. I assume because it's trying to suck into the engine. The exhaust only has an o ring near the end of the valve. Again, as it's blowing out of the engine I guess it's less important. The ones I have will probably be fine but if the others are cheap enough I might just get some. I have a full gasket set from somewhere but no head gasket? I'm not sure how I've managed to use a head gasket but nothing else....
  8. Many thanks. I'll get them ordered. I have a couple of the more basic type from previous cylinder head gasket sets but as I recall I bought the ones you show separately and used them as they matched the ones on the car. Think I bought them directly from vauxhall, but that was 20+ years ago so could be wrong. I've found 8 of these in a gasket set I've stored for 22 years....I think there should have only been 4 in the first place so I've accumulated 4 more from somewhere. I'll order the better ones you suggested anyway.
  9. These are like the ones I took off this head. These are like the ones I took off the exclusive in the past.
  10. Ian couldn't resist a freshly painted chassis.... I will. The ones I took off are different to the ones I remember taking off my exclusive years ago. The ones off the exclusive looked like a better design with a little spring that held the seal against the stem. Hard to explain. I'll look at the Reinz ones. Thanks. Cheers Ian, good to hear from you.
  11. Thanks Herman And happy birthday. My boys birthday today. 9 years old. Can't believe how quickly the times passed. No manta time for me today and back to work tomorrow.
  12. Thanks I've spend a couple of hours this afternoon cleaning up the head. There's a lot of carbon build up but the half I have done looks good. The plan I have at the moment is to but this back together, possibly with new big end bearing as I've opened these up now and a new set is only about £30. Valves lapped in and new gaskets and water pump. If it makes good compression I'll run it until it breaks. I've committed to get the other engine anyway. A lad has been holding it for me for months on deposit so I need to get it at some point. He has the injection tank I need so I'll have to go down anyway. I like the idea of having a spare anyway as parts seem to be quite expensive for them. I've been spoil owning mx5s. K. Thanks. I did a little reading on the opelgt forum and someone on there has suggested as you have. Someone else said that these special heads has an extra H, i.e. XR2EH. H standing for high performance. I measured the cam lift today and it looks to be slightly higher than the Haynes manual suggests but not by much, only about half a mm. It's stamped GM so it's not an aftermarket one. Good spot on the valve guide, I'll look at that. According to the Haynes you can't install new valve guides and have to open them up and fit larger valve stems. Measured mine and they are all 9mm which I think is standard. Exhaust is 37mm and inlet is 42mm again, all standard I think. I'll take some photos when I get it cleaned up. Perhaps something else will jump out. I was a little disappointed when if found out it was an earlier engine but most of the people in the opelgt forum agree with CIH. You can run them for years without adverse affects so I'm not to concerned. Cheers both.
  13. Cheers mate. Spent the afternoon cleaning up the cylinder head while building up the courage to tackle the rot in the roof. I'm off next Friday...might get stuck in then.
  14. Just a quick update. I managed to get all the welding and grinding back done on the underside. I found one more small hole on a seat reinforcement plate but it's all cut out now and new metal in. I then spend hours and hours cleaning off ancient waxoyl, sanding back and cleaning up and spots of surface rust. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ax8Tewoae6kxkEGc9 Then I primed and bare metal with etch primer from a can and let that harden for 24 hours and used up a can of red oxide on any paint that was looking a bit thin. https://photos.app.goo.gl/RXNZ9aFACDHnpsCF6 Then I had to wait for a warm(ish) day to play with my new compressor. I mixed up a litre of red-oxide/rust inhibitor primer with 10% thinners and a cap full of Japan driers. And then practiced on a sheet of card until I was happy with the gun settings. I then sprayed the whole underside with 2 coats of red oxide primer. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FSAADZbPHMcEHNucA It's not perfect but it feels good to get some proper paint on. I've got to let this harden up for a week or so and wait for a warm dry day so I can seam seal the underside and get some stone chip on the exposed parts. Then a couple of coats of chassis paint and then I'm calling that a day. I've also picked up a cheap CIH engine which I'm busy looking at. The engine is a bit earlier than I thought so it's not unleaded so I'm just considering how much time and effort to put into it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Arc9Hb5n9YzP5gwn7 I've partially stripped it. Bores look ok with no marks and very little lip, crank looks good under the big end caps. Cam and followers all look spot on. Not many photos because I was covered in oil but here are a few. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zvLT5sbqGqkVRWU76 I've also managed to pick up the front section of an exclusive coupe roof which had rotted out at the sunroof so I now have the panel I need to repair the front of my roof where it's rusted under the vinyl. I'll move onto that while I'm waiting for the weather to improve for painting. That's all for now. Happy New Year.
  15. Thanks, The E refering to injection would make sense. In that case it probably hasn't been converted. Instead of swapping the heads I think I'll just go with the other engine which I'm pretty sure is a later one. At least I'll know to check the numbers over first. The cams, follows, crank etc on this one look really good so I'll keep it for spares. Or clean it up, put it together with new gaskets etc and use it with an additive until I collect the other one. I'll have a think. Thanks for the response. I paid a £110 delivered. Nice lad, said it had been sitting around for ages. It was on Facebook and no one wanted it. Only the engine, not the gearbox. For the money it's a good source of spares. I think I have a spare gasket set somewhere so I might clean it up and put it back together. Should be fine with an additive??? We'll see.
  16. Cheers, That was my thought. Machine the head out and insert a new seat. I guess anything I think I can see on the inlet is just a machine mark from original manufacturer. I just thought it was interesting that the head has clearly been off and someone has bothered to stamp it up with the extra E. Maybe it stands for exchange or exhaust. Maybe someone on here will have see it before. I did see that head on Facebook but to be honest I didn't pay that much more for the whole engine and all the loom etc so if I can't confirm its unleaded I'll just run an additive for the miles I'll do. I've got first refusal in another engine a bit further away I just haven't been able to collect it yet so even if this one turns out to be a none starter I'll go with the second engine. I'm planning on collecting it anyway as a spare when I get time.
  17. Hello, I've picked up a cheap CIH for my project which the seller believed came out of a late GTE. I checked the engine and it was a 20E engine with loom, manifolds etc so for the price I have no complaints. The engine was soaked in oil and the water pump looked like it had been leaking so I've started to pull it apart. I've checked the engine number against a post on this forum and it pre dates the change to unleaded. As I understand only engines after 0350....are unleaded. Mine is 031 so quite a bit earlier and not a late GTE as thought. Again from reading the forum heads that are unleaded say P2E and leaded heads are XR2. Mine says XR2E. The E looks to have been added later. When I've taken the head off there is quite a bit of cleaning required inside but the bores look ok so and the big end bearing look fine so I think it's a viable engine. So my two questions are: 1) is there any value in wait to get a later engine if this one cleans up ok? 2) could the E indicate it's already been converted to unleaded? Is there someway to check? I've quickly cleaned around one of valves and it looks like it might have had something done as there is a slight step but it's on the inlet and I thought only the exhausts got the hardened seats added. There's evidence the heads been off before and also the thermostat was missing. Any thoughts appreciated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fd2iNopsbY8B9Dah6
  18. Ian, That's terrible but you sound positive. Hopefully he is on the mend. Merry Christmas to you and yours and I look forward to you getting back on with the 'epic'. Happy Christmas to everyone else out there too. Have a good one. K.
  19. Many thanks Ian. It's getting there slowly.
  20. Many thanks. Those bits at the rear were all done in 1.5mm I think. I bought 2 big sheets of 1.5mm and 2mm and then used my digital calipers from Aldi of all places to match original. I used 2mm at the front from memory to repair the swan necks but Ive since been back and reinforced it all with 1.5mm over the top. I need to finish them and then leave them alone. I'll get some pictures when I'm happy with them. Everywhere else where I found 0.9mm steel I've pretty much replaced with 1.2 as it's a bit easier to weld but still easy enough to cut with snips.
  21. Anyway, this is it all welded in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/fn5JJ7FH5H8tbXf56 Although there's no rust now and there's so much zinc primer there's not likely to be much for a while it probably would have been better and certainly quicker to just weld the whole lot together rather than making pieces up. Still I did enjoy this bit for some reason and I suppose that's the whole point. With that last repair to the rear done I was able to clean everything up, treat any bare metal, prime and red oxide the rear part of the car up to the axle line. https://photos.app.goo.gl/afovRihA8yzCR3pD9 Basically, I went over the whole area and anything suspect I took the powerfile to and ground it back to bare metal bit left any sound paint as I could see no reason to expose metal which had been happily covered for 40 years. Then I used a rust converter. Let that dry. Then I used an etch primer on those spots before painting the whole area with red oxide. Next job it to finish welding up the swan necks where I've added more reinforcement (I just can't leave them alone) and then that the entire bottom finished and I can get it off the spit. If you've got this far..well done. Many thanks. Some of it is neat...some of it is, well...upol gravitex will make it neat.
  22. The I tackled the LAST UNKNOWN quantity on the chassis. There was a small area of corrosion on the rear chassis leg boot support where the two overlap. It looked so superficial I ALMOST left it but I decided to investigate. A small corrosion spot turned into...this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3JjV9AqVwjmdVy2A6 So I tried to remake it as close to as original as possible, first make up some plates profiled to the shape and then cut out the rot. Then weld in the plates, close in the top with another sheet bent to fit and more welding and grinding. I'm quite proud of this but as it looks quite neat. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SqqYP1L8qkeEup3DA I then had to made up the rear section that closes over the top but all I had left was this... https://photos.app.goo.gl/C7uszUnXD9rmHGgy8 But I still managed to get this.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CMdKiLbo7XQE1q3L9 The last picture is taken in the house as I wanted to show my wife what I'd been working on. She couldn't have been less impressed!
  23. I can't believe my last update was May!I knew it had been a while but... Anyway, work has been progressing. Slowly, but progressing. The reason I stopped posting was that I was having to jump from job to job as time allowed and if didn't feel like I had anything to post that I'd completed. Ive complete, or nearly completed a few little tasks so here's a bit of an update. I stripped the front subframe a while back and I've been cleaning, treating the rust, priming and painting and I've got most bits done now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/G7nMJXLn9H2hFSEa9 A few more bits to go but the plan is to have it all ready for when the car can go back on its wheels. When I get sick of welding and grinding I clean and paint. I hate grinding welds back. Seems like such a backwards step... Anyway, about the same time I tackled the front headlamp inner mount area. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rdh4N6U92PpWY1pn8 This is upside down on the spit. The passenger side is fine. The driver's side looked ok but on further inspection it was paper thin so... I made up a new section https://photos.app.goo.gl/9hDhMbzzWib9yhhA8 Which, like any small bits I've made me far longer than it should off. I think I get fixated on trying to get detail right when often a plate would do, look just as good and be far quicker. Then I cut out all the rot, cleaned up all the seems and surface rust and treated the area with converter. I try to leave as much good metal in as possible so I have something to reference. Might not be the best approach but I'm learning as I go here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/b2jMz3vxCXTNvwXL6 Then I cleaned back were the welds go and add weld thru primer and we have this. https://photos.app.goo.gl/iCYGNVcSgEuZswLC7 Then weld and paint. I welded enough to secure it but not so much that it distorted the metal. Basically I plug welded where I could and that ran 1" long welds where old met new. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cD28YCQoooXUALFt6 Not perfect by far but not bad. I've also made some progress on the rear drivers side wheel arch. Same story as the front really. Passenger side was good inside and out. Drivers side, not so good. I removed the outer skin to find the inner lip was paper thin. Which meant I had to try and make a new one. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EoPeWPN6LEAemSY99 I did this by folding an angle in steel, cutting lots of slits into it. Shaping it and then welding all the slits back up again and then grinding everything back. Did I mention I hate grinding welds back? Before I could fit the outer wheel arch I had to repair the inner sill to the front and the boot floor to the rear as well as clean up and soak everything between the inner and outer wheel arch in rust converter. https://photos.app.goo.gl/QNzK7c5j9UoTdVa27 I then had to fit the outer wheel arch skin which was an absolute pain. I used a stepping tool as everything I read suggested this was the way to go, but I really struggles to get the swage lines on either side to line up and the arch to lie right. It took a fiddling but I got it to the point I was happyish. I've only tacked it for now as I'm going to wait until I can get to both sides to I can take some more measurements and profiles before I weld it in for good. So this is the inner arch all welder, cleaned up and zinc primed, then one of it just before fitting with sealer/adhesive in place and finally welded to the inner arch and tacked all around. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TCfynbV1N8f4M5zC6
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