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stumpy

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stumpy last won the day on December 8 2020

stumpy had the most liked content!

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About stumpy

  • Rank
    Commodore
  • Birthday 26/06/1975

Profile Information

  • Location
    aberdare south wales
  • Interests
    powerlifting commonwealth champion multiple x welsh champion welsh record holder bikes gsxr 7/11 full custom build by myself cbr900/1100 blackbird x2 and a cbr100 also have two race minis and of course the manta rot box
  • Name
    charlie

Recent Profile Visitors

358 profile views
  1. ifyou can hang on for a bit i will have i have my x memeber in place at the moment to act as a jig for the chassis rail replacement once done i have these two wich are pretty good tbh
  2. thats great thanks.. i have a myford lathe so can turn them up myself
  3. yes mate i can do no problem leave it with me i give you a pm when ready
  4. yes well worth it to eliminate any play [ its a very common mod on the old minis with rubber mounts on the subframe towers and in between the steel on the floor mounts the movement actually crackes the toeboard from flexing] ive ordered a set of the bushes now will measure them and turn up a few sets need to get the old ones out first dont have a press here but do have a vice so ty that
  5. or if ayone has a set of these they can measure for me
  6. firstly has anyone fitted aluminium top hat bushes instead so solid mounted and b does anyone have the dimensions so i can get some made like these i had years ago failing that has anyone with new bushes in their rear arms able to tell me the the outer diameter of the bush where it goes in the arm the offset fron the flat of the steel of the arm to the flat of the outer face of the bush where ir buts up against the chassis rail please [mine are shot and bits missing so getting aaccurate measurement is difficuilt rather not guess by eye it looks 12 mm or so for the face offset and around 36/38 mm bore in the arm
  7. i cut the rear section off the inner sill cover panel to expose the box section i will be putting in the x brace at that cut end and then once done put a peice back on so i have the return lip as i then need to replace the lower section of quarter panel inner frame wich will tie into it also have some roll cage base mounting boxes i fabbed up that will get welded directly to the box section the cover panel then will be altered to suit to pretty it up obviously the box section will be tied directly into the A post and the jaking points will be in original position but a different design will tie the chasis rail into the A post as per original will probaly use some75x25x5mm unuqual length angle iron two peieces joined down the centre to give a chunky strong area to jack
  8. yes mate has to be done for sanity just means more panels to make you know its bad when even things that look solid crumble in your hand when you scratch away the paint/sealer this was yesterdays work replicating the inner sill of the drivers side i removed the tunnel [easy enough] as i wanted to change the under seat rear x member set up as well wasnt happy with the box section i put in either so ime going to make some higher four link box x braces to do the same job as the x member would have
  9. day off today sick to death of the dreaded tin worm its everywhere i seem to look theres no way if i was doing this back to standard i would have completed it so ime glad its being modified as it will live another life and pretty much a blank slate theres no right or wrong most of the under seat area at the rear is roached the arches the closing panel of the inner sill come off in my hand its rotten
  10. this is why i love the tec screws all revesible during this stageasits a caseof suck it and see tbh height on tunnel also depends how much clearance i have between the bottom of the 60 x40 box section running across the rear originally it is angled downwards from the centre towards the inner sill its looked good but had rot alongthe inside for a good 6 inches not into patching things up. so mine are flat/level doesnt give me as much room obviously but i can alter it but ime enjoying the whole process tbh
  11. ime undecided as yet Jess i was going to go with 100mm but the whole floor is raised slightly being its completely flat so undecided yet between as you say 75/100 mm ive made it at 100mm but easily trim it down should i need to
  12. managed an hour or two so cut the floor pan down in width ready for the exhaust tunnel i have fabd and had a little play at coming up with a closing panel for the rear end of the floor have a couple of options a straight panel with a lip and a cut out for front ofthe rear chassis rail as this needs and angled peice or a fully angled piece full width
  13. so trimmed up the floor and derusted it as was covered in a heavy layer of surface rust cleaned up lovely still a little bit to do offered into place and more fettling got a nice tight join to the inner sill and sitting on a 20mm lip here so mucho strong the floor is not sitting flat/level in the pic as the chassis ect underneath needs trimming for it to sit as i want it but the old chassis will be getting cut out anyway So i had a spare folded tray here, wich i trimmed down /more to be trimmed its approx 110 mm deep with 20mm lips so rather than let this go to waste its going to form the rear section of the exhaust tunnel probably trime the 20mm lip thatattaches it to the tunneldown to 10mm tho along with the folded edge of the floor pan and this section when joined would give approx 110x110 with a taper as can be seen Obviously it is not going to sit as high as in the pics it is literally just placed for the pic and to see if i like it It will have a matching tunnel the opposite side as i may or may not run a v8 but at least its there should i decide to and adds detail to the floor so stronger i would think.
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