Jump to content


OMOC Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by stumpy

  1. on the wjheel base its its 35 mm Jess not even worth worrying about
  2. bit of an update it still lives but the body is being put on a sonny howard of RSR escort space frame as below adapted to fit the manta shell its not going to be a bodge job the body will be in sonnys workshop and made to measure including the cage
  3. rot hole in the screen pillar so work to be done
  4. as above anyone have one knocking around or anyone know anywhere they have them cheers
  5. yes i love that its awesome i also found fergals m5 bmw ascona he had to shorten the flor 250mm but the E46 IS ALREADY SHORTER
  6. bit of a change in direction ive now decided to stick it on a floorpan i had thought of a subaru i got messed around on two then a subaru legacy twin scroll that i got let down on while i was on my way to collect it ime on a budget with this build i have plenty of others to spend cash on so with that in mind ive bought an e46 2.8i one owner bmw for cheap cheap ime going to sit it on that with a veiw that engines ime thinking should be interchangeable and obviously so many suspension upgrades for these and the drift boys use them so its a starting point
  7. so ive been scratching my head over this the arch is 30 inches wide and 19 inches high ..thats .cut at the highest point and the original join between inner and outer arch/wheel tub unless i run massive wheels i will need to add a fender flair to make the opening smaller at the outside going to try to d it out of steel and smooth it all off so it loos like its a one peice deal ime limited to normal hand tools ive not got a shrinker stretcher enlish wheel ect i do have an old panel beating hammer and some bricking bolsters so at worst will have to start again
  8. yes not messing around lol she have an ass end like a brazilian lap dancer
  9. so today has been spent atempting to make a quarter panel and i have to say so far so good love the uniformity i managed to get on the arch ...wich i was worried about creasing he panel..... i stood back and admired a few times think Tom Hanks in castaway when he makes fire for first time pmsl..... early days yet and lots of fettling and on and off before its ready for the blue sparky glue gun but ime happy at the centre of the arch its 4 inches wider than stock ime not sure how much wider a 400 ki is than stock? now ime wondering do i leave it widened at the front leading edge/door shut and put a flat peice in to tie it to the door frame aperature or do i taper it to meet the original leading edge like the 400 .......the outer cill is being widened by 4 inches to match as when i measured my 400 cill skirt its was close to 4 inches wide once done i will slam it dowm low and fit a big ole set of boots ime kind of hinking stars and stripes manta and losing the rear bumper pics
  10. i have a fibreglass 400 kit here but the person who had it before me and cut the quarter panel to do an arch repair when cutting went up far higher than needed and when i offered the 400 arch against the car today the top mountng faceof the 400 arch was 3 mm away from the end of the cut line in the centre it didnt leave me much choice really i could have put a flat peice in to bridge the gap between the arch filler and the quarter bu would mean welding high up on the quarter panel and again around the arch i think distortion would have been a issue and it would have bothered me tbh would never hae been happy with it so ime making all steel arches not exact to 400 but similaire i also dont like the flimsy trim peices that you get in the 400 kit for the cill so again i will make in steel
  11. i tried my 400 arch on this side today and the top of the arch [barely] is above the cut old arch ...ah well no point messing about chop chop make new joggled an edge on the outside of the arch filler panel to make it easier to dress it downwards so ths is how we stand at end of play today so i am going to fab up some wider cill sections with a nice shape on them tie those into the box section then the quarters will tie into those so ime going to have some sheet with a fold at the rear edge to go up behind the remains of the upper quarter panel and have an arc cut into it leaving an extra ten/15 mm to joggle and edge and then dress that down with a hammer and dolly to give a flat lip for the new quarter to but up agains and add some rigidity into the panel..thats the plan never done this before so if anyone sees anything obvious then say now lol
  12. made a start on the arches.......left plenty of material on the steel strip so i can play with different widths and trim back as needed i need to use a nut and bolt with some large washers in a few places rather than the self tappers but is good enough for now ,,,i have a difference in the cut of the quarter panel by the previous bodger upper of up to 50 mm the largest setion gap is 80mm and the narowest point is 30 mm made this lil tool will tack on another leg so it forms a u as i realised it can pivot on only the one leg and i need it exact....... and i will tack a steel tube to the longest peice on top for the sharpy to slot into and a tech screw in the side of the sleeve to pich the sharpy tight i can then slide this around the arch i have self tapered into position to give me an accurate line to cut too now i didnt fetch the arch all the way down to the bottom of cill level at the front as where it is i can redo the cill/lower quarter repair and buld the arch into the quarter in this area i used 1.2mm steel for the arch will use that for the lower quarter too ime wondering tho if i should have used 1.5 seeing a few paople on rally cars tubbing arches with 1.5mm its a bit of a compromise between strength and weight
  13. yes has to be matching back and front i a way its a good thing because the optios are limited regards what i can do so crack on
  14. thinking i may be better with something like this all steel with the 6mm rod on the edges where theres joins ect as can get a good weld on the rod and just catch the sheet steel so as not to blow holes or distort
  15. AAAAHHHHH Shite...cut the arch out as close to the weld as possible to leave as much as possible this has to be the most ham fisted wheel arch repair ive ever seen there was no need watsoever to remove as much of the original quarter/wheel arch the rot hasnt extended that far up ime now at a bit of a sticking point whle i plan my next move so ime thinking along the lines if i try to weld in metal to give more arch ime going to distort the hell out of it i do not want to change the quarters altho i have a pair cut off another car that in itself would present problems so i am thinking of using some 6mm steel rod as a frame and making some arches as there has been to much meatal removed for the 400 arch mods that i thought would save me so i think i will do wide ascona type arches
  16. its not bad theres a little in the cill on the lower quarter i dont know if all the cill reopair panels are like this,, but seems very thin steel so welding it was a bugger had my set turned all the way down and stll was a case of a dab for a split second let it cool etc more so than normal
  17. got a couple of hours today welded the cill to the rear quarter also welded it from the inside so that i could pretty much completely smooth the outer weld though i left a bit here as it will need some filler anyway due to a little distortion from previous repairs will see what i can do with a hammer ad dolly though the section at the rear edge of the door step had been welded before and was blobby didnt follow the profile of the cill here so i chopped that out and started making peices to fill the gaps had to leave it there then as training shortly
  18. not as far as i know only on their own website shows all the metal fab i have seen a couple on here in projects if i find it again i will send you the link
  19. retropower have a good project old one now where they put a skyline motor i a manya shows the arch work thats what i will be using
  • Create New...