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Everything posted by Moonmonkey

  1. You may be right, I checked over the weekend and it’s on the rhs of the timing cover on my Frontera 2.4 CIH. My 2.0 Manta is under the exhaust on the main gallery.
  2. I had the same worries when I bought mine. Under seal all over the underside, suspension, brakes, axle, engine, under the battery, inside the sunroof well etc. Some of it looked new probably to tidy it up before sale and some was old. I am slowly cleaning it off with white spirit and a kitchen scourer as I upgrade the suspension etc. To date everything underneath the under seal has cleaned up really well back to the original paint. I have only repainted stuff because of chips in the original paint where it was back to bare metal, and to have a consistent colour. The story of the car is that it had been garage stored for 20years and it has only done 25k miles. So it looks like the intent was to preserve rather than conceal. I do have a worry around the spare wheel well as it looks like there is some badly applied glass fibre but it’s definitely steel underneath. Wondering if a new well has been badly welded in and the glass fibre was an attempt to waterproof, but will get to it.
  3. I think on the later cars the oil pressure sender is mounted just above the oil pump housing on the timing cover, there should be a 7mm hex socket plug screw that was originally for priming the oil pump after a rebuild(if memory is correct) The plug in the right hand side end of the gallery that runs from the pump to the oil filter, underneath the crankshaft aperture on the picture attached (I’m on the iPad so can’t put and arrow on the picture, but hopefully the description explains things) Edit just learnt how to draw on the picture😊
  4. Great looking car, welcome🙂
  5. I’ve gone for 7.5J rims so I’ve been thinking 225/35x17 as it is the same diameter as the standard, but there is only really Yokohama who make a tyre in that size. I think that might be a little wide for a 7J rim, and the 35 profile might be a bit harsh as well. The other option is 215/40x17 which should fit on a 7J but they are 14mm larger in diameter so the speedometer will under read by about 2%, so the speedometer will show 29.3mph when you are actually doing 30mph. The good thing about 215/40x17 is that it’s a common tyre made by lots of manufacturers. I’m going to dummy fit the bare rims and measure up before deciding on tyres.
  6. The steering rack bolts should have a tab washer on them. Often difficult to see if covered in oil & crud
  7. I got the spacers off ebay I think the seller was tunershop-worldwide, which is in Germany. When I’ve checked they were actually cheaper at dcperformance.co.uk. I think there are a lot of places selling H&R spacers but there are other brands to, but not all come with the longer studs. With 10mm spacers you may be better having ones with the built in spigot rings. The thinner spacers don’t need them as the hub spigot is long enough, but as you go thicker I think its better to have the ones with built in spigots to locate the wheel.
  8. Hi Matt Yes you will need longer studs. Some of the spacers kits come with longer studs. I’m using H&R spacers which come with 10mm longer studs for the 5mm spacers. It’s a bit of a pain to change the studs but I was upgrading the whole front suspension, and brakes (why I need the 17inch rims) so I already had everything in pieces
  9. There is also this website https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-60-14X6ET30&wheel2=225-35-17X7.5ET30&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm I’ve just ordered a set of Speedline Marmora’s 17x7.5 ET35. I have also got some 5mm spacers so I can be at ET30
  10. As Danny says with a 40mm offset the wheel would be significantly inboard - 22.7mm closer to the strut compared to a standard 6x14. Ronal. Using 10mm wheel spacers will push the wheel out back to the equivalent of a 30mm offset, meaning it will only be 12.7mm closer to the suspension, but it will be 12.7mm closer to the edge of the wheel arch. Scrub radius will be similar to the standard wheel to Just depends if you want to use a spacer or not. Problem is that there are not too many wheel options for Mantas with a sensible offset these days.
  11. Is it possible to set up a community editable ‘wiki’ on the forum where users can input valuations of what they have bought and sold for, and/or prices made at Auctions as these are pretty easy to see, and auditable as the sale price is made public. (Glenmarch.com is a good link to many previous auction sales websites). Perhaps add some description of condition and date. For example if you take GT/E exclusives the last 3 I have seen sell at auction inc buyer premium are 2020=£22,360, 2021=£18,360 2022=£18,597(hatch) It would be similar to what Classic Car etc do but completed in house by people who know the cars.
  12. You can buy new washers individually from Krause-Rennsporttechnik https://www.krause-rennsporttechnik.de/shop/en/Chassis/Front-Axle/Manta-Ascona-B/Caster-shim-for-upper-wishbone?source=2&refertype=1&referid=156 They do 3 different thickness of both the small and large washer so you can alter the caster angle on competition cars. They are not expensive(about€10 for the 4), it’s just €19 of postage and potential customs hassle(unless your after some other stuff). I’ve found them good to deal with and they do have some good stuff (eg I got a short 2.4 twin DCOE manifold off them) I bought new bolts with washers from TJ Motorsport, they were pretty expensive @£45 for the pair but there wasn’t a lot in it with the postage from Germany, and I did have to cut my original bolts down the side of the caster washers as the bolts were seized in the bush, so had to replace the lot. https://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=2000645-S I may have the old washers kicking around somewhere, but they may be a bit damaged by the hacksawing😊
  13. Saw the Manta last weekend doing the Mini Miglia. Didn’t know but the guy who owns it is from my car club in Rochdale. Looked nice but can’t post pictures until after the programme is aired, so gratuitous opportunity to post us in the Maserati😊
  14. I just cut the front off behind the filler cap, so it protects you from the timing chain. The rockers don’t throw too much oil out, and it gives you better access
  15. Hi Lewis, I don’t have Nick’s details, please could you let him know i may be interested in buying if he wants to sell. Thanks Roger
  16. Had a look at Rotas website and they do some nice styles, even ones like the old ATS. I think the GTR in gunmetal look good but they do have holes for 2 different PCDs Do you know what make Nicks rims are Lewis? Not sure I fancy modifying my Ronals, plus I wanted 17inch rims as a 225/35x17 is virtually the same diameter and circumference of the 195/60x14 give or take a millimetre so no speedo calibration issues.
  17. I know what you mean the Bolas look a bit FWD. I was thinking fake split rims would suit an 80’s car😃. Dare do a multispoke one that looks like an 80’s BBS rim but I remember them being a pain to clean and then the corrosion flaking all the powder coat off. The Dare F5’s are available in a ET35 offset which will be better fit
  18. Just looking to buy some 7.5 x 17 inch rims for the exclusive and was interested in people thoughts on designs Wanted something that looked vaguely like the standard Ronals, so drawn to 5 spoke type rims like the Bola B10 in gunmetal, or the Dare F5 in black. Any thoughts of what looks good on a Monaco Blue exclusive? Thanks
  19. I used a Senator radiator in the rally car, but you have to cut the “wings” off that hold the standard radiator in place and mount it directly on the back of the front panel. I also had to fabricate a simple bracket for the bottom mount, and use electric fans as it’s a long way from the engine. All good for a competition car, but maybe not a road car. Once you cut the radiator “wings” out there is a lot of space, so you have a lot of choice, but obviously you’ve made a permanent change to the bodyshell. Not sure if you would want to go that far.
  20. Couple of websites for comparing wheel and tyre size to standard are: https://www.willtheyfit.com/ https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=195-60-14X6ET30&wheel2=225-35-17X7.5ET30&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm I prefer the second one and have been comparing sizes myself vs the standard B series GT/E wheel
  21. Seems excessive despite its provenance, and a weird place to advertise such a car. I would have thought it would be better with a specialist or one of the major auction houses. A rally prepared Manta 400 sold for €83,000 last July. It was an ‘86 car but reshelled after an accident to a modified non 400 body shell so not strictly a works car, but still far better value.
  22. He might post to the UK, as the text states “shipping costs UK and other countries please ask”
  23. Just wondering if anybody has ever tried a Tremec/Borg Warner T5 in a Manta. Standard Cosworth/TVR gearbox and officially rated at 300lb/ft torque (well the one in my 4.5 Cerbera just about copes with 350lb/ft, blown 5th gear once but you can get uprated Quaife gear sets). Looks like you can get new ones from Gearboxman for £1,733+vat These guys used to do a XE to T5 bell housing and cable clutch conversion: https://www.rwdmotorsport.com/product/vauxhall-2-0xe-engine-to-borg-warner-t5-bellhousing/
  24. There are a few of 2.2 Alloy ones going for close to the same money which are probably a lot more common. Think its a sellers market for this kind of stuff, just how many buyers are out there. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174965394079 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203696559106 https://www.ebay.de/itm/254399672980?hash=item3b3b66f294:g:xtsAAOSw92Ra~R7Q
  25. Just found and ordered a "short" Twin DOCE inlet manifold for a 2.2/2.4 CIH head. Standard length inlet manifolds are around 108-115mm from head flange to doce flange. This short one is 78mm so a saving of 30-37mm compared to a standard one. Hopefully a Frontera thermostat housing will fit with it. I'm thinking of using a Jenvey 90mm throttle body which is 28mm shorter than a standard throttle body or a DCOE. so it looks like you can get about 60mm additional clearance for the trumpets/filters. Think its coming together now, need to think about rebuilding this engine🙂 As a side note I hope this is not a sign of things to come. When examining the new Exclusive as part of MOT prep I pulled this off the N/S break caliper. Sheared bleed nipple glued back in place! Maybe time for a brake upgrade🙂
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