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®evo03

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®evo03 last won the day on January 15

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About ®evo03

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  1. Going great guns Ian, fair play, any joy on the seat material? Thanks for the door bits, will be very helpful, cheers.
  2. Great fabrication, loads done, do you weld both sides of your repairs, like these two patches, outside and inside? When you put your sill on do you treat hidden steel, and what with? Winner on the chassis legs, you can drill down onto them from inside the car and plug the holes, for future treatment. Will you remove all paint including hard to remove grey primer? Sorry for the questions, at the same stage myself
  3. Wooo.... thats alot, one good thing about it, plenty of cold air round your redtop, You can get a aluminium strip fitted to some mantas as standard. Sits below headlights and above bumper, it only about 8mm deep. Try finding one, try finding a straight one. Honestly never seen this much space before, is it a known kit?
  4. Good piece of history there, sure the car in the background isnt maybe the merc too, , sorry emoji button stuck, weirdly!
  5. Eh, try parking a sunroof car next to a non sunroof, world of difference! Caution on welding a plate, worth checking, depends on the restriction on your track, and what level of trackcar, Think if it needs a cage, it cant be plated, but could be wrong. Mentioned before, depending on restrictions, a grp skin made from a mould, it is possible, if done right. If it is entirely safe, in redtape eyes is the question, but look at the front of a 400r, 90% is fibreglass. Or another make, model, some ferrari, nobles, monocoque constructions!
  6. ®evo03

    New swan neck

    A real car then, need need for a gym, built in fitness regime. You could at least fit corsa b power assisted steering, so he doesnt exhaust himself whilst parallel parking, 😚
  7. You have to have the weirdest photos, thought this was a airbrush jobbie! Skull on the door, it is weird! Is it there in real? Spooky!
  8. It went crazy on the bidding, apparently! Good prices!
  9. Confused?......... Have you put waxoil in the cavaties? No chance of getting it all out! Waxoil will never dry completely, if it is sprayed on outer base of car! It could be wiped off, rags, a solvent, Anyway still confused, red oxide is a primer, so it is porus, you will need to paint, and protect paint with something, i use stone chip personally. Reason why, it dries solid, and if it needs to come of in future, it will.To treat cavaties i use a shutes gun, with extended hose ends. I also drill from inside car staggered holes, to get correct coverage, and use grommets to seal holes.
  10. There was a 15 year old mars bar on ebay recently for 22p! Think prices may have doubled from 2k! back to the car in question, great wee driving car, great gearing, well mine is anyway, just keep it planted, 3rd, to 4th, to third, pulls well for a 40 yr old car! A great base to make a great car out of. as i said before these cars are not cast from concrete, specs have and did change, think things where more layed back 40 yrs ago.
  11. Think the s model is sport, apparently the manta 1.6s was quicker than the equivalent ascona, cavalier, spec was more power, think maybe 10bhp! Woooooo!!! Everything, looks as it should, although maybe shouldnt have had a black bonnet or a sr badge. Sealed rear windows are correct, as is chrome trip, no over riders, no radio, as standard maybe optional extra, will have higher geared axle, maybe solex carb, auto choke, if its a manta b 1.6s, it will be manta DL on log book, DL, deluxe! Wheels and trim is right! One thing i did notice, rear drivers trim is upsidedown? Would make an excellent drivers car, well tuned and all mechanical bits looked over and checked, replaced, carb clean, service, tune up, paint is questionable? Seller needs proper photos? Showing main area, for rust etc, chassis jacking points, wheel wells engine bay, boot, sills. If it is for sale it is? If it aint, it aint? Stick a price on it? Here is a photo. Or two Needs 60mm drop and these, thats it!
  12. Apparently, its duct foil tape, you can also get chrome vinyl, main concern is apparently a headlight reaches 150˚C. Maybe not for a manta? But i have researched this for a while now, top is metalization, which is aluminium vapourised in a pressurised chamber. You can guess how much this is? Next up is chrome plating, which involves three processes, actually this is the most expensive, Next up was chrome powder coating! Then hydro spraying, then hydro dipping, then airbrushing with chrome paint, and laquered involves process where the reflector starts gloss black. all but the metalization, are untested against bulb heat and uncertain how long these will last, non are exactly cheap. bottom line is foil tape and chrome vinyl. But hard to beat a nice set of headlights! 🤤🤤🤩😋
  13. Been researching into restoring complete headlight units. I have split them before and have cleaned glass to a almost new finish, sanded, rust threated and sprayed headlight shell to different specs, dark silver, standard, light silver, and charcoal. I have also cleaned and painted or dremel polished the bulb holders. Major sticking point is the reflectors, they are sided due to the sidelight bulb. Ive tried pricing two different processes, one is metalization, and other is chrome plating, either plastic or early metal reflectors. These processes are just too expensive, i will continue to look into other processess. But for now im grounded, any ideas. Believe me, im not stuck, ive at least 4 sets extra waiting in the wings.
  14. Yep total respect whatever you decide, just a point, would a wrap work over primer? One note on rattle cans, costs can mount up, and finish deteriate quickly.
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