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®evo03 last won the day on December 10 2019

®evo03 had the most liked content!

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About ®evo03

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    Manta Nut

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  1. I have used an early b seats to mount a bucket seat in a manta. Reason, i needed the recaro mount that was used for buckets to mount recaros, and the b seats where getting recomissioned, therefore metal work of early seat was redundant. Ian, to get the early seat frame lower, (trying to remember 12 months ago!) i think i removed the front round bar at the seat base, there are long flat edges, redrilled and mounted it higher, therefore leaving the seat base lower. It involves a reposition of seat adjustment bar. For the rear, think it was a weld, inside bar, nearest to tunnel, outer adjustment was cut and welded higher. Its alot of work, tricky to workout, and better if you have carpet out. As said above its the rear mounts that are affecting your issue as you ars trying to get your back and body position lower to allow your head lower. Just look at it before you start, all this and you will get it lower by about 10 to 15mm, due to its design. You could get it lower if you designed a complete new fixing without adjustment, which isn't ideal. Hope this helps a little.
  2. Worth pulling the plate off axle, to check diff / LSD. To see whats fitted. A open diff can get sticky anf bind, along with a LSD not gripping. A word of warning, a insurance company questioned a car i own, it is declared as a c20xe, they got mixed up with the engine code within their internal systems, and thought it was a turbo engine. Why! C20 let They went on to explain, they could not and would not insure a production car that was not turbocharged as per released from manufactured. Ie a manta was never manufactured by opel with a turbo. But i did see somewhere the manta a was the first production car to be turbo. < dont know if its try or false! Good job on original wheels!
  3. Age old question, as the rapper e40 choices tune goes.... yep, nope! From the north of ireland, mot here have about 12 stations, run by the goverment, booking is about £30, you usually book it in two months in advance, now you get an exemption for every car, due to ramp issues. If it fails, you start again................basically its a money racket, operated by monkeys, they dont like being recorded, kind off totalitarian, its our way or no way.........dont like it that much....... i hate other people near my stuff, especially as they have no respect. Thats why i record them. Story,........have a jap bike, its a jap market motorbike, but to get them racing in the isle of man in the 90s, they had to be homologated. That meant 100 had to be officially imported, still jap spec but an official uk import. My bike is number 25, left in road spec, never raced. Now after owning it for about 10 years, had a issue, with a mot guy, his argument was.... if it is used on the uk road, it needs a sidelight! .....my view was that its was 20plus years old, motd for 15yrs, motd in the same station for 10plus years, why the issue now?, it never had a sidelight, and never will, end off! ........i won in the end, but it wasnt pretty....it wasnt a sidelight issue, but an attitude issue. I do understand the safety aspect......but if it wasnt safe, i wouldnt be in it, or on it.
  4. Looks better out of its natural previous, decaying surrounding and on a trailer. Yeh fair play on owning a piece of manta history, very rare to own a time piece, with period modifications. Good luck with the restoration, watching with interest. Currently restoring a 81 manta b, wasnt too bad! But bad in its own unique ways, ie one chassis leg didnt exist, rear spring chassis seats where gone, very little remained, then the usual manta areas! Worst thing ever was the bottom suspension arms crumbling like weetabix, surprisingly up to 50% of the underneath still had original body colour paint, which was good, you may be surprised, unfortunately both ways!
  5. Taken all on board, cheers Lads. 1. Mot is out of action and goverment are issuing tempory exemption, usually a 6 month waiting list. The exemption puts the ownus back to the owner/ driver. 2. Any Mot only validates a car on the date it was issued, it can be deamed unroad worthy the next day....... and why not. Just because a major component is ok on mot date, does not guarantee a year of non failures. Therefore it is up to the owner, driver to insure car is road worthy at anytime, mot'd or not. Ive seen 5yr old merc with rusted brake pipes, it had 170k miles, driven to death, and traded for a new car, it failed on 7 major faults, ie there are more death traps out there, generally they are not classics, vintage! Q, If i do delare it exempt, can it be booked for a volunteered MOT. Cannot do a pre mot, as it means nothing here, the mot dvla is a goverment agency. < its not a good thing!
  6. Ive 2 mantas and another 1 heading for its 40th birthday, one is declared as free tax, the other one will be soon. I was on with the dvla swansea, and they advised all 40 year old cars are mot exempt, and i can delare it when applying for historic vehicle class. Im unsure if i should as both are lightly modified, dvla states any mods to suspension, steering and brakes make it exempt being MOT exempt, here is the grey area! If it was completed before the vehicle was 10yrs old. That statement is just weird! Both cars have passed mot every year, no advisories for fifteen years. One has a corsa power steering, other has pedal box and disk brakes. Seen this link and it states: The guidance also allows changes made to a vehicle in order to preserve it when original-type parts are no longer 'reasonably' available, changes made to the vehicle type while it was in production or within a decade of production's end, and – for 'axles and running gear' – changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance. So modern disc brakes on a classic car are fine, as would be conversion of a hydraulic power-steering system to a less energy-hungry electric one. So this statement is fine, anyway we have issues with mot here as apparently the guys and girls looking over our cars cant review their own practices and have been using lift ramps with stress fractures, not surprising as they are used for a purpose they where not designed for, sideways movement whilst they test for suspension issues! As i stated to them before whilst they mot'd a motorbike, i wouldnt be relying on them to tell me if it was safe or not, if i didnt trust my own work, my arse wouldnt be one it, 100% trust in myself. Example, i had a bush let go on a koni adjustable shock, within 30yrds, i knew what side it was, what it was, all felt through my backside in a bucket seat................no need for a mot adviser here.......or is there! https://www.goodwood.com/grr/columnists/john-simister/2018/1/john-simister-could-your-classic-be-MOT-exempt/
  7. Cant beat a black manta, looks well, back in the day, would have bern the car to have, chrome window trims makes it, not sure on the additional rear spoiler, before its time! Car seems to have been a trend setter, and has to be the first 400r kitted manta, circa 1984 or before. Even the quads wouldnt have been commercially available, or even fitted to a production manta, Everything about this car rocks, maybe not the back spoiler, dont even mind the red interior which is weird. Light pod looks so nice Interesting to see just how bad it is! But...... welldone, congrats on the buy, good luck.........bring it back to it full glory Those scoups on the doors to arches would have been a trend setter, nice touch.
  8. Andy, try a hatch seat back panel for size to block off rear seat area, had the idsa in my head and was meant to get round to trying it, if it is pretty enough and fits? Why not!
  9. That is just wrong! Molasses sugar syrup, eats into rust and removes it, it is gentle enough if the metal is in good condition to polish to a mirror finish, it leaves no residue, and final step would be to wire brush metal, and either prime, paint or protect, The rust coverter, cannot be left unprotected, metal will rust again. I suggest molasses, as it is natural, needs washed of with water, a tank is better to dip large parts. Then high temp paint, or better ceramic coating.
  10. Herman, have you ever heard of molasses? Try you tube. It takes about 2 to three weeks, less destructive than sandblasting. What are your thoughts to protect it afterwards? Ceramic coating? I like the three week waiting time, as it relaxes the time, allows me to put my feet up! Relax and wait, and not listening to a noisy grinder with wire wheel. All i needs is a truck of molasses, and a large manta size swimming pool!
  11. Yeh sounds involved, yeh parts would be an easy start.
  12. Yeh scuttle panel should be opposite wipers on LHD, also area fox pedal box would be reversed, ie on other side. Yellow one above has all you need!
  13. Sorry its a A, then i know nothing, never had one, my bad! Regarding rhe loom, yeh if everything is same length, its a mirror jobbie! Just switch it over. An A bulk head! Sorry thinking about a B!
  14. Never really thought about loom, if it enters the bulk head on the left, it would be longer in the bay to reach everything, wonder does it run down the left side of car also to rear? The skuttle panel, are LHD funky wipers? Headlights? Beams on glass? Pedal box? Clutch cable is shorter, so is speedo. Seen one converted, but it was only panel work completed at the time. Hardest thing was finding a mint RHD bulk head to graft into a mink left hooker.
  15. ®evo03

    Mike's Manta.

    Mike, if you painted your shaft clean it back to the about 20mm behind the seal, dont worry, it wont rust, i give your new seal 2 yrs and it will be leaking again. You could polish back to metal, as seals like a perfect round surface. Now matter how bad mantas are with rust, you will never have to weld a manta arond this area! The leaky seal is why! Forgot to say, looks the bizz! Fare play, health to enjoy
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