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endakillian

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  1. Yeah I think I'm fairly much sorted now Shane. Great info alright. Thanks for checkin anyway!
  2. Excellent bit of info there Luke-thanks a million. Yeah I fitted the ring gear using an induction heater and gave it a few spins before settling so it should be fine. I think I might just go with new side bearing and a new crush washer just to be sure though? Again thanks for the figures and if there's anything else I think of I might jus stick it here in this thread? Cheers, Enda.
  3. Thanks Shane, appreciate that. @399road... Thanks for you're informative reply. That's a great idea with opening out some old bearings to do all the checking and rechecking. I was going to use the old diff bearings but I think now I'll open them out and just get new ones for final fit then. They're very pricey though. The proper shim kit supplies 2 type of shims-one with diameters for fitting between outer shell bearing and diff casing and the other with diameters that fit under the bearing for final fit which is great because you can do all you're checking and fiddling about using the ones that go between the shell and casing without having to keep pulling off the bearings. Very hard/impossible to get these original type of kits though. Only ones I can find are the ones that sit underneath the bearing which means you're damaging them every time you pull off the bearings. When you say you tightened the pinion by just nipping it up does that mean you used the old crush washer??? It's a nightmare of a job with parts so hard/expensive to find and info even harder! Would you happen to know the crown wheel run-out tolerance also or does it list it in you're manual? I obviously don't have the right manual as the page numbers seem different. Again,thanks for you're help.
  4. Looking for a crush washer and shim kit if anyone has either would be great. Cheers, Enda.
  5. Does anyone have actual bearing pre-load and torque (bearing caps & pinion nut) figures for when rebuilding a Manta diff? I have a fairly comprehensive Opel workshop guide but it doesn't give the figures required???
  6. Excellent work! Love it! I log on every day especially to check this thread! Cant wait to the progress. Keep up the good work
  7. Nice work Bendy How is it my project alwys seems to be at the exact same stage as yours evry time i look at you're thread!? I just done the exact same thing this week in order to fit the LSD. Are you fitting a slippy? PM sent BTW....
  8. If you have that would be great! Yes i am fitting an electric power steering column so wide tyres shouldn't be a problem. What you're saying is very true-no point in going to all that trouble to just end with standard lock? Cheers, Enda
  9. Been going over this on TotalOpel as well and i think i've established that the pinion shaft in mine seems to be an early Chevette pinion.Could it be a Chevette rack?(It is bolted to the X-member and does fit) or could it possibly be just a chevette rack and pinion in a Manta tube? I have found a few options that will fit so that i can mate it to the rest of the Manta column( http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GSV1027)but it still doesn't fix the problem that it isn't a quick rack? I might be just better getting the proper quick rack and fitting it? The car will only be for road/fast road use-in you're opinion is it worth my while fitting the quick rack?
  10. Very true. The arm is very weak when the steel sleeve is pressed out. Before either pressing out the old one or pressing in the new one i tacked a few bits of bar around the edge of the arm to support it like so...
  11. Superflex also supply the metal sleeve-in stainless steel. Pic of mine i replaced a while ago... Superflex part no. SPF 1550 Price £31.70ea. excl VAT http://www.superflex.co.uk/results.php?maker=20&man_name=GM&searchmodel=52&Search=Go Hope this helps.
  12. Yes the pinion definately is 'quicker' alright. I'm just stumped now on how to mate it to the rest of the column. I'm gonna have to find some sort of matching spline to fit it really aren't i? Thats not gonna be easy!
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