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cam.in.head last won the day on March 31 2019

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  1. if its anything like the b the springs do need a good compress and the factory tool compresses them onto the lower arm as one unit not sure on the a series. always found them easy to get into a b without compressors but on the car itself .
  2. as snowy says the pinout is different anyway so you cant just plug in a different dash .not sure why they did it that way ,you would think it would be easier to have one wiring loom as standard for all cars but i suppose it saved on a few lengths of wire . if you fit an aftermarket tach that uses a negative trigger like the original then its just a case of running a single wire through to the coil green wire ( you could use a black wire to be easier to hide if you dont want to wrap it into the loom) and then obviously a ignition fed live and an earth to run the tach. if you ever fancy changing to a 6 dial dash its just a case of relocating the dash plug pins into their correct locations and then adding an extra plug and an oil pressure sender and one more wire.
  3. yes always use proper fuel pipe clips there. the original gm ones are usually reuseable but i would imagine new ones are available. also worthy of a mention. always use a good quality known make of hose designed for fuel injection.you dont want any leaks around there. hopefully this will help your running issues.and if not at least you know this area is now good.
  4. cam.in.head


    as they say above ,all should be well providing the head is a P2E head (dep on year) physically blocks are the same ,timing cover different as you have seen.
  5. hi. the early viscous fan unit can be fitted straight onto your existing waterpump .it is a boss that fits in place of the plastic fan and then the viscous hub slides onto that and held with a left hand thread allen bolt.probably hard to find a boss now .varous early senators and monza,royale used them if you could find one.the fan is easier to get as a lot of cars in the 70's used a similar setup and the viscous units are still available albeit not cheap.they are just a basic viscous design thou,no variable speed at hotter temp just a basic slip. the later units did use a different waterpump drive flange and the fan unit screws to it .they are temperature controlled and were found on various other vauxhalls such as carlton mk1 & 2,,senator etc,and no doubt other cars too(this waterpump is a direct replacement as a whole ) both my cavs have the standard fixed fan in place and never had any issues. the fan isnt too loud at high revs ( sounds nice anyway in my opinion!)and removing it once for a viscous type made no obvious differences power or economy wise albeit a slight reduction in noise.also as far as i can remember the radiator needs moving to the other mounting points too but thats only bottom bolt and two rubbers. other way to go is electric but thats not for me !
  6. in that case it sounds like a flywheel issue. maybee someone had it skimmed flat by mistake rather than leaving the recess which it should have which would certainly explain the very large gap. someone should be able to confirm this with a picture .
  7. yes if its a 2.2 but that cover says 2.0 .presumably somebody has made the '0' themselves ! all the 2.0 mantas ,cavs and carltons ive seen have only had a steel cover( different may have been available overseas)?
  8. how does the parts compare with the ones you took off.? without insulting your intelligence and abilities - any new clutch will have a gap which will cause the centre fingers to bend in when tightened up the issue here seems to be the amount ? correct or otherwise ? then once the bell housing is on the release lever free play / dimention is adjusted at the pivot end first ( ball )it will need adjusting . then the cable is adjusted to give the official pedal or your own preferred amount.i like a low bite point so usually set them just below level with the brake .but i think factory is slightly higher.
  9. What was that originally fitted to ? Only seen manta ones in steel or did they fit Ali to later models ? Or has someone just had it re engraved
  10. always have my cars outside,all year round. just drive them regularly to keep discs clean. including winter. always some welding to do in spring but thats the fun of being an enthusiast !
  11. yes,and mk1 cavs do too even base models.just needed fuse and relay plugging in.switch connector hanging loose in pod cover. must admit thou that rears dont all seem to have it.my two didnt or wasnt obvious so just ran a wire from light switch to rear fog switch and then to back of car for foglamp. did try the mod years ago to put a bulb in the cluster but didnt seem bright enough ( mot man didnt like it either) so fitted the standard one .i personally dont like the minimalist look so rear fog,overriders,and mudflaps all round on mine !
  12. yes thats my method.always worked for me .saves any mess of oil splatter etc.the actual measured clearence difference between a cold and hot engine is so minimal that one turn down afterwards is not 100% important anyway.even if you went to one and a half ( think mine are around one and a quarter)but one turn is the official amount. idea is if you work on one at a time and wait then theres no chance of any valve damage or burning seats .
  13. getting them rechromed has always been an option as we all know but they are usually stupid prices. they were when i enquired and this was many years ago. as i have always told people .ebay is a fantastic place and everything you want eventually pops up.no need to pay the daft prices that they sometimes come up for either.within the last 5 years i have found new headlights for both my cavs and carlton and at very good prices. i am still holding out waiting for some brown velour viva gls seats which will pop up eventually and currently looking for a perfect fittable omega bonnet in silver.
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