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cam.in.head

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  1. Standard front springs for (cav mk1anyway) don't have flattened end but they are 9.5 turns .top locates in rubber damper with steel reinforcement.bottom just sits on arm in location channel. standard rear springs again don't have flattened ends but the last turn of each end is a thinner cross section .top locates in non reinforced rubber damper,bottom sits on thin rubber pad in location channel in axle. if you had got the spring wrong front to back then yes the back would be too high up the front would also be way way too low. Sounds like maybee the rears are wrong only ? i don't think all after markets springs wil have the progressive thinner end turns ?
  2. Hey Ian it's a pity you didn't just buy two cars . You would end up with two finished ones.one acceptable and to re sell and one perfect to keep ! 100% dedication here .well done mate . And yes I agree .little details make or break a restoration. I think I mentioned it before ! The satin black in the correct place on the front valance, number plates mounted correctly ,etc etc make the difference between a good looking correct car or a quick tidy up. To me anyway! It's the age old question about originality over obvious modification. Peach to their own thou.
  3. Hi. If you are using a drill to spin the oil pump I would imagine this will be faster than engine cranking anyway so you would definately get oil pressure building up. You would also get it as suggested above by just cranking on the starter. Unplug the coil and it should be fine even with plugs still in. Yes you will need ign switch on as its an electric gauge but this will show you if all is working. It should prime up fairly quickly if you greased or oiled the pump gears or filled it through the filler blank on the side . ( always very tight to undo !)
  4. Do you remember watching any episodes of AMerican hot rod ? they seemed to basically cover the entire surface of every car they built with filler ( they called it bondo)and then sanded the entire car to the level it needed to be. made every panel and gaps perfect don't worry Ian I'm not suggesting you start from scratch and cover the entire car but wondered if anyone has used this method as even thou it seems extreme it should produce perfect results. Theoretically better than new ? Only major downside i can see apart from the tons of filler dust ! Is that it does make the car a one off and unique ,meaning you wouldn't be able to replace any WHOLE body panels as easily in the future ! Next time I do any larger area repair I'm going to try it to see !
  5. Certainly looks like the correct part .someone may be able to confirm numbers. Ideal for anyone with a mint early example .i would imagine most owners have now got the 4 port version fitted 83 onwards style ( the earlier 4 ports nearly always leaked )
  6. HaRd area to clean and get perfect due to most of the brown discolouration being from condensation / rust damage . This being a sunroof equipped car. The headlining was the same on my Carlton due to sunroof rust but no where else.i cleaned mine best I could with decosol and then a misting of spray paint ! like the bleach idea .let me know if this works but as mentioned make B###### sure none gets on anything at all .as we all know bleach marks never come off !
  7. Or the aftermarket pump being no good. .? The originals are designed to be correct stroke when having the heat proof spacer block fitted. Not sure about some aftermarket.
  8. They have a raised tag which holds it up although there is no logical reason why this would affect the actual operation of the brakes as even if it jammed it's the Pistons that puSh the shoes out and the thermo clip only is there to stop the self adjuster going up one too many notches if the drums are warm !
  9. Hi Ian.what was the actual issue then? . Did you find why there was a blockage ? . Or do you think you had tightened up the clips so tight that they actually closed up the stubs ? .?
  10. Just make sure the clip has still got its location tab otherwise it will slip down again !. They can gat easily flattenned
  11. Has no one told you about the 3 plug colours yet ? .mines a 2.2 so different anyway but I assume from memory you are meaning the coolant temp sender the thermo switch for the 5th injector the aux air valve if it’s any help according to the Haynes diagram the temp sensor has 2 wires ,one is earth possibly brown and one is ecu terminal 10. Wire may be marked 10 ? thermo switch has 2 wires , one is 29 or 4/1 or black and red air valve has 2 wires, one is earth possibly brown and one is wire 9/2 this may help you a bit ?
  12. Hi ian it sounds like your sorting it anyway but I’d thought I’d add my thoughts. ive never had a coupe so can only guess the tank is very very similar to a saloon tank which has a stub at the bottom to exit the fuel. I cannot remember wether this stub is removable or part of the tank .and I don’t think it has any sort of mesh on the inside like the pipe on a hatch tank would have. If you have experienced the first situation where no fuel ran out but did after you had blown it then it does sound like something blocking it in the tank or front to back line. If it were me and considering it’s only 4 bolts I would remove the tank .remove the sender from the side and have a good look inside if you can. You don’t want a bit of gunge floating about inside making the car unreliable if that’s what it is. Eliminate the tank as being fine 100% and refit. the fuel line is plastic so should theoretically last forever,check for damage/ squash / blow through with compressor. pump wise it’s like most other parts these days.i would keep the original gm pump if it’s working ok rather than any other aftermarket type.they last a long time and seem to fail by letting oil out of the timing case before the diaphragm goes so if it’s nice and dry and working ok I would refit it. The fuel system is very simple on our cars so there’s not much to go wrong . If you found no fuel reaching the carb then it’s pretty much NOT a fault inside the carb so I’d not do anything there. get the fuel running from the back and you can hear bubbles when you blow and connect all back up and we should be good to go .
  13. Oil sender connections are prone to working loose due to the heat from the exhaust. If you confirm they are tight AND making good contact then it’s a suspect sender unit but that’s rare.. check also the joint/ connection where the wires come up into the loom below the wiper motor . regarding the other engine connectors the Haynes manual is a little unclear on wire numbers or colours for the injection.but someone should clarify it for you shortly
  14. You will hopefully find that once the new nut has been welded on the heat will have done the trick. looking in the vauxhall service book it does state “ no attempt should be made to try and remove them or lubricate them” !
  15. Also double check that the bulbs you have replaced are not faulty,shorted or not fully twisted into position although you did say that all bulbs were now working ok.
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