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cam.in.head

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  1. Hi ian. The lens is what creates the beam pattern so would not work.also if they are fitted with actual hid bulbs ( not just zenon filled filament bulbs)like the listing mentions then you would need an hid ballast to run them too. The law changed recently as far as I know and these would be illegal without type approved headlamp units and headlamp washers and maybee even electronic beam levelling.which obviously will never exist for our cars. This is to prevent dazzling oncoming cars and is the same reason why higher wattage bulbs are illegal too . dont spoil a fine restoration by Chavving it up ! Lol see what happens mot time and if you need a reflector I’ve got plenty here
  2. Just to double check for you .just drove home today and felt hoses. top radiator hose very hot as expected.heater inlet hose very hot.outlet slightly less so but bottom radiator hose much cooler ,almost cold compared to everything else so can't see you have any actual issue . But was worth checking for you
  3. Yes it would be .nothing else in that area to cause smoke. It will more than likely be the low speed resistor heating up and burning off some oil from when you freed it off if you are lucky. it needs to come out again anyway so see how free it is . Lubricate only with 3 in 1 oil or equivalent. Anything else is too thick and will cause stiffness or squeaking. examine for burnt windings if totally seized . New motor if required !
  4. Forgiv3 me if I’ve misread something but are you looking for a fault that isn’t there. Do I understand correctly. Car drives fine ,never goes into red. Just goes slightly higher than middle .heater working but not very hot ,water level ok and no other issues ? the heater working but not very hot could likely be just partly blocked .ive had new heater cores in the past and they are realy hot but a few years down the line and a dose of Barr’s and performance can drop off. I would suggest a good heater core flush with hose pipe both ways to be sure but they never seem to get as good as when new, there could be a small air lock in the heater core but I’ve never ever experienced it myself ( on a cam in head lump thou) as regards the bottom hose .it will always be much cooler than the top one as the hot water enters at the top of the road and exits at the bottom. any other issues ?
  5. My mate fitted one of the electronic ignition kits to his viva and all seems well. never seen one that replaces the rotor ,just the condenser and points but that would be even better.less bits to ever wear out. Cant view pictures so don’t know what kit you got. Mine has the standard distributor , coil and module from a mk2 carlton 2 litre non injection fitted and seems ok but hard to find now .nearest would be 2 litre manta gte setup but possibly different advance curves although wether it would be noticeable or not I’m not sure .
  6. Ian. What does the beam pattern and illumination look like when shone on something .like your garage door or a wall? There should be a resonably well defined horizontal line / cut off with a flick upwards on the left side.This is what the tester will be looking for. and also as a basic alignment you are looking for the beam to drop off below centre and a small amount left as you reverse away in a straight line. I usually set mine on a local country lane whereby the n/s beam can be seen just on the edge of the pavement at what I call a reasonable distance away for good illumination and the o/s light set towards the centre of the left half of the road .and level beam height to the other. ive always set mine this way and never had a failure . however. Do as you suggest and see what happens mot time.if it fails or you think it will beforehand I will have one or keep looking on ebay.a new light or pair will show up. Eventually. I know I keep putting my faith in ebay and mentioning it but seriously,everything I’ve ever been stuck for has eventually popped up. Virtually my entire house ,and spare parts have come from ebay ! all the best mate
  7. If it's anything like the original Lucas plastic refector types then they don't seem to last long. We had a set of them on a friends car years ago and they lost their shine when the car was about 8 years old. i will have a look Ian to see what I have or found that fits . How many do you need ?
  8. Wow that’s something I didn’t know. What year is yours? Early cav coupe ?
  9. I know exactly what you mean. Mine was the same on the hatch with original door and with a replacement door too. The gaps would have been ok when the car was new so I was on a mission to sort them out.its as if they seem to ‘settle or swell or something .maybee due to the size and heat over the years? . Maybee due to rust between the seams.maybee they just gradually curve outwards due to years of shutting them and the pressure of the door frame seal against them ? We will never know,possibly a combination of a few factors but hard to get right. Mine had 3 issues actually .probably yours may have too. first the lower lip of the door from front to back actually seemed to have an outward curve/swell along its entire length .i know it isn’t meant to be totally straight line but it curved more than the sill and chrome cover and more than the door on the other side did but there were signs that it had had a new skin on at some point in its life so I put that one down to bad fitting of the skin.before the car got painted it was ‘encouraged’ back into better shape with a soft mallet !. another door .the other side actually. fitted pretty well overall but had the rear lower corner sticking out a good 5mm in relation to the sill / rear panel corner and gave the impression the curve down the side was less than it should have been. Luckily for that one the front upper edge was also too far in so an adjustment to the hinge position brought that corner out and the corresponding rear corner in.more or less perfect. ( I seem to remember the hinge needed cutting off and re welding )hinges (both) were then adjusted to give good gaps and door alignment. any fine tuning on that bottom corner was then done with a mallet and thin skim before painting. Same as can be said for any panel gaps realy. These cars were not realy bad for panel gaps compared to some cars but anything that can’t put be rectified in the obvious way ,adjustments,alignment etc needs sorting in other ways. Bead welding edges ,etc as required. Panel gaps are a pain in the arse and some of mine are still not perfect but were not rectified properly before paintwork and before I had the patience and skills I have now. How many of us wish we had done things differently !., hopefully some more answers will pop up here to compare notes !
  10. If you are happy with the welder no reason to change the axle especially if it’s a quiet one !. If I were you I would just make some replacement circular seats for the existing axle. Make 100% certain you have a good clean earth to the actual axle when welding them on so as not to have any voltage spikes through the bearings. Do not use the body earth. not sure about the rarity of windscreens .i have a spare here if you want it. From a hatch with blue top tint . Slight lamination separation ( white patch in corner) otherwise ok. If you are stuck
  11. Hi ian. Yes I’m fine thanks, just wish it was playing out weather here .its peeing down and very windy and I have to work on cars outside .garage is occupied !. The rubber inserts are always a bu**er to get back on especially if someone has pulled them off and bent the innards. a combination of the original spring clips, new homemade studs and maybee some kind of adhesive too should see them back on.im sure you will work out something. looking good anyway . ( I think cos I can’t see pics ! Lol ) but sounds like you are getting close . It’s all worth it in the end.
  12. I’m keeping my eye out too for you. Something will eventually turn up on ebay .it always does. Il go have a look again now !!, For example but don’t get your hopes up . Ebay red ribbed velour cushion covers Or google red ribbed velour cushion covers maybee a call round some cloth suppliers etc/ sofa trimmers etc may yield suitable material for someone to sew in ? also may be worth a message to the viva owners club ( viva gls/ magnum ) vx / victor / vx gls or maybee autobahnstormers re carlton mk1 similar ish material .
  13. With regards the bumper rubber strip. If you cannot find any like I couldn’t when I needed some I made some from rectangular pieces of steel with a hole drilled in the middle to weld a threaded bit through.6mm I think or 5? Similar to the original square ones.rectangular with 2 corners rounded off so you can twist them into place . hardest part is the very end ones .its hard to get them to stay in cos the rubber seems to start opening up there. 2 of mine are held with a black screw from the outside but it’s not ideal and spoils the look a bit. But if you recall from my car picture it’s not stupidly obvious.
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