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cam.in.head

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cam.in.head last won the day on October 20 2021

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  1. ah well in that case it sounds like either bad ring gear teeth or starter itself.(possibly just solenoid ?)providing it spins it well once it finally engages. ring gear is part of flywheel( flexplate on an auto ) although it may very well be replaceable but either way is a gearbox(or engine) out job. if you remove starter you should be able to examine ring gear for damage. not very common on these engines thou.hopefully it will be a starter issue .easy to find and plenty of choices. if it does turn out to be ring gear you may be able to get a file in to repair any localised areas .fiddly but easier than g box out ! if you are 100% sure all cables are fine then see what you see once starter is out .
  2. we will see what keith finds out. it shouldnt be a battery issue as a 063 was always sufficiant even on carlton 2.2 engines so a 063,075 or 100 will work. timing easy enough to eliminate if it turns over quick with coil unplugged( hence no ignition to fight against) so its either. engine earth ( my guess)or other connections bad starter ( replace with same ,all cih engines ,best type 2.4 or 6 cyl versions fit too)
  3. if i remember correctly there is a fuel filter inside the main carb fuel inlet nut. worth checking that its not bunged up. once you know that is ok and float chamber is filling up correctly then it sounds like a blocked carb passage. also remember that if the air filter housing is removed then you will have an additional air leak due to the vacuum hose for the hot/ cold flap.but that should make a poor idle not a revving issue and as i mentioned.make sure the main jet needle is free to push and return
  4. so : it is actually pumping fuel now ? what did you do now differently ? a few more questions ideas....... is the fuel that you are now using from tank fairly new.? old fuel does go off eventually . if there is sufficient flow and float chamber is filling up then valve is ok. will it run at higher revs and only dies at idle ?( blocked carb idle jet/ passage.) or does it stall at any speed ? ( check main jet needle is free.should press down and spring return.) by what means have you checked carb. visually, through acess plate ? or top off completely ?
  5. just out of curiosity.is your car a 1.6 or 2 litre. the 2 litre had the larger radiator ( compared to the smaller one fitted to 1.6) and never had any cooling issues . with an early fixed fan especially but later models with a temp controlled viscous fan can fail causing overheating issues in slow or stationary traffic. ( only applicable to later mantas realy unless you have a viscous water pump / fan assembly fitted to an earlier car)
  6. the way hes describing it it does sound like a camshaft issue but after hes checked our suggestions we will know more . he says it will pump fuel by hand but not when the pump is bolted up .
  7. if the engine earth cable is good(or new) and tightly attached to bare steel all should be well.if it gets faster if you put a jump lead across from engine block to battery neg then the earth cable is not doing its job and you may feel clutch cable getting hot .or the connections at either end of the engine earth cable. at lot of people forget the engine earth when putting an engine in.probably not the case here but worth asking. if we are sure that side of things is ok then its either starter problem engine too tight ignition timing too advanced
  8. the largest battery you can fit without any mods is a 100 size .this just fits in the gap perfectly. dont let a supplier give you a 096 tho saying they are the same ! they are taller and will hit the bonnnet. a 100 is the same height and depth as a standard 063 size original battery just longer. BUT theres no reason at all that a standard battery should have any issues turning over a 2 litre engine .unless the engine has been modified with too high compression or theres an issue with the starter itself or cables. usual issue with these cars is the engine earth lead. if thats loose,broken or missing it will turn over slowly.and also burn out the speedo and clutch cables too ! once sorted you should be able to leave car untouched for 2 months easily without any issues.
  9. if the fuel pumps by hand but not when on the engine it cant be anything to do with the carb. unless you are 100% sure of this .( ie no fuel comes out of the pump when its bolted onto engine and your cranking ? ) check camshaft lobe for wear.
  10. never had any sucess in the past with any of the conductive glues or epoxys. only thing that seemed to work well ( for me anyway !) was self adhesive copper sheet ( must be the type with conductive adhesive) found it on ebay from a music shop .used for guitar screening ! you can then solder to this no problem.but be carefull. localised heat on glass is always a worry.
  11. hi. there. if i remember correctly the 1.8 has a supply line from the tank and also a return line too.( i may be wrong 2.0 versions dont have this ) obviously if it worked before then the pipes must be in the right place so what i would do is ...... check that the supply pipe from tank is clear .if you blow in it you should hear bubbling in the tank. connect this to the fuel pump inlet and with a pipe connected to the outlet and safe in a jar you should be able to manually pump the fuel through with the pump in your hand. in a lot of cases the pump will work fine on the car either with or without the spacer but if you have it then i would fit it as it also can help as a heat shield too. so if it works manually but not on the car this would suggest either wrong pump ? or camshaft lobe worn down. ( you should be able to see this through the hole ) lets start with the sbove and seewhat you find. hope this is a little help to you as regards float chamber most varijets have a gauze top above the chamber that you can visually see into.
  12. and at least if the rust comes through it will smell nice !
  13. what i always think too
  14. i would imagine that when the tester sees the beam pattern projected it should be obvious if it isnt correct and doesnt have the cut off slope above and also seeing as he does this all day long he should notice very bright bulbs too. yes the 100w bulbs are marked "not for road use" but does that now mean that you can fit them "pre- 86 ? . i hope not . one more issue regarding leds (etc) is that us classic owners dont want to be confused with the chavvy mod brigade that used to play with novas etc ,lol.and to me bright lights that shouldnt be reminds me of that. dont want us owners to be branded that way or give the gov more excuses to push us off the road they are already thinking about the ban on modified vehicles again ive heard !
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