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cam.in.head

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  1. good advice ! yes especially the heated rear and blower fan fuses that regularly melt for fun !
  2. as ian says check earths. there is one near each headlamp screwed down to the inner wing and also same at the back panel for the rear lights. make sure you have 12v to each end of all fuses.( some only go live with ignition on) hopefully you will find some issues here and repair as required. if lights are still not working check bulbs ( obviously) and bulb connectors.main beams are linked side to side and come from the multistalk switch ,dipped are the same.sidelights and rears come from 2 seperate fuses.( see manual) if indicators are not working but fuse is fine try operating the hazard switch a few times . brake lights should have 12v to switch above pedal (1terminal) and other go live when pedal pressed. other than that its a case of voltmeter or bulb to work your way back. if you have a meter or bulb with 1 wire clipped to earth then you cant go wrong or do any damage by testing for power with the other wire .. most of the time these issues will be bad earths ,followed by loose connector plugs,and obviously possible but less likely is faulty switches . and goes without saying,sorry if im stating the obvious but make sure everything is plugged back in correctly .
  3. hi there. does anyone have a hatch rear window with working demister for sale. nearer to west yorkshire the better ?
  4. no comment ! no seriously though : thats a lot of work. never had a problem with getting in and out even up thr side of my house with a 2 foot gap. mantas,cavs etc are small cars realy
  5. well thats one way to get them off ! i assume you mean youve cut the pins between hinge sections ? never had any that bad to be honest but at least theyre off now.just need to remember to put washers in the gaps on refitting to bring the alignment up .
  6. it sure does. and respray or not ,arches or not its an excellent car with great panel gaps and alignment. underbonnet looks near perfect and has obviously had a fair bit of care and attention spent on it rather than a quick tidy up. there are a few very good cars popping up at the moment.anyone seen the red k reg viva on ebay . trouble is,when cars like these do pop up it makes some of us want to redo bits of ours again.mine are everyday drivers all year round and keeping them in that condition is harder than actually getting them there in the first place. stiill worth the effort thou !
  7. the small square section in the boot floor is a reinforcement section .possibly for the tank mounting.mine has the same double piece. to be honest the interior doesnt look faded to me ? maybee the brightness of different screen settings ? the dark red dash top looks perfect as does the parcel shelf and top of rear seat. this is where they usually fade with the sun.personally i like all the cav velour interior colours and realy wish they had done a dark green velour similar to what you would find in an early royale or monza,senator. this cav is one of the rare survivors( look at those legs !) most definately along with the green gls saloon
  8. to be honest although its one of the vent pipes( and obviously placed there for a reason) there are other vent pipes higher up on the tank and on the neck .if your tank is not leaking and you havnt got a replacement or dont fancy a tank refurb/ renew coating etc then personally i would blank the rubber pipe or take it back to the t piece and check all the other stubs for security . the rubber pipes do get brittle with age especially the ones up the neck and at the top so have a good check. then use jb weld on the broken stub to seal it off.DO NOT attempt anything else such as soldering ,welding etc but i think you probably know that ! obviously as others have said there is a chance the other stubs could be at the point of failure and you would be almost guaranteed to find further rust or holes under the tank holding straps if you remove it. these tanks are very rare now and hard to find new or used
  9. they certainly can on the early guages ( orange coloured) that have an instant responce .not tried it on the later white thermal type but if its similar in operation to a fuel guage then no reason not. but yes check voltage first.it might be actually reading correct !
  10. if the battery is reading 14.2 volts or therabouts and everything is working as should be then the volmeter can actually be adjusted if needs be . there is a small adjustment screw but id measure voltage at fuses and maybee ignition switch too just to be sure. its not uncommon for the ignition switch to have bad contacts and let low voltage through but it usually shows up as a dimmly glowing battery light . the voltmeter gets full 12v ( 14v) only the fuel and temp guage are affected by a bad dashboard voltage stabiliser
  11. the throttle stop screw is to make sure that the butterfly ( throttle) doesnt close completely and jam up. usual procedure here is to unscrew it which will allow the throttle to close fully.then turn it until it JUST touches and then a quarter turn more. do not turn any more than this or the distributor vacuum advance will start to come into effect.also its worth doing this adjustment after you have cleaned all the gunge from the butterly valve with carb cleaner. the other screw you mention is the idle speed which is basically an air bleed. yes you can remove the screw completely to free it up if needs be. after all this and if you have acess to a co meter you can obtain the correct idle speed and adjust the idle mixture if it needs it with the bypass valve on the air flow meter. all explained in more detail in haynes manta book page 235
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