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cam.in.head last won the day on March 31 2019

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  1. hi. the actual block / pistons etc are the same regardless of wether unleaded or not ( even a carburettor 's' engine block is the same albeit a hole for fuel pump)so if i were you i would get both engines if affordable and rebuild the best block and then fit the later unleaded head.(P2E) if you end up using an unleaded head then yes it should be fine with additive if needs be but ive run an unconverted engine in one of mine for 10 years and 5000 miles without additive and seen no adverse effects. you could rebuild the other engine and resell or keep as spares as parts get harder to find.
  2. hi. im pretty sure the 'e' will just denote that its a gte head .ie injection/ higher comp than a carburretor head. (they are basically a skimmed version of the carburettor version) you are correct that it should have a P stamped if its an unleaded head.(march 85 onwards/ engine no 0355000 onwards) ive had heads converted before and to be honest its better to obtain a proper gm unleaded version.(in my opinion) there should be someone on here with one for sale surely.
  3. Hi. The difference between a s and e engine is very slight realy.

    the block ,pistons ,crank etc are the same ,although the s engine has a blanking plug where the heater hose connects to on a e engine.

    the timing casing has a blank on the e engine whereas the s engine has a hole for the fuel pump.

    the e cylinder head is skimmed to make the higher compression ratio and this results in the head sitting lower obviously so the timing chain top cog is retarded .the cam profile is advanced to allow for this .theoretically a gte cam would be an ideal fit in a s engine with a slightly stretched chain to bring the timing back spot-on.as the lift Durations and angles are identical.

    later e engines and s engines have hardened valve seats for unleaded.

    1. plumster


      Cheers for that, you Sir are a veritable mine of information:

      Have a grand xmas.

    2. cam.in.head


      No worries mate. You have a great Christmas too .

  4. inferior rubber most likely i would say. most of the original rubber parts that gm used is very high quality and seems to last . pretty much everything except anti roll bar post rubbers,side window ledge seals and underbonnet insulation. id say,put a std but genuine gm rubber housing on ,maybee reinforce it if you want it a little firmer and your good to go. another gearbox rear seal whilst its off. propshaft should already be balanced unless its bent ,lost its balancing weight,or un equaly painted !.and like you say check joints for wear (unusual) and just make sure its postioned cleanly and squarely into the flange recess ( ie the wire bridging strips between cups are straight and not trapped behind one cup .this can definately induce a small but noticeable vibration.
  5. mine neither. but then they are used all year round mostly anyway. pretty much never been garaged in 40 years and sometimes this is better anyway as you get a good airflow around them. in spring they get a full pressure wash underneath and any bits attended to as and if needed
  6. you can of course fill the voids with silicone to beef up the rubber if required. im pretty sure i added some strips of rubber around the outside too but cant check at the moment !
  7. if it were me id be contacting paulmanta to see if he has any of the proper ones left. as i said last year ive never ever seen a proper gm one do that cos theyre usually good quality rubber. my cavs are still on their original ones and theyre over 40 years old. ! were checked when i de oxed everything 10 years ago and put new 6205bearings in. still perfect now
  8. for anyone who might need them have a look on ebay at 893199381. they are an audi listing but look very suitable as an early b / cav unit. has anyone actually got one to compare ?
  9. must admit ive never took any eccessive precautions over winter although my cars are basically used all year round anyway with maybee a short session(say 2 or 3 months) break .i used to use my 2 cavs on a 6 months at a time basis whilst they were taxable and disconnected the battery and closed the garage door. in 6 months time reconnect battery and they were ready to go anywhere. had them for over 30 years and had no issues with tyres or otherwise. worse thing anyone can do when a car is off the road is start them up for a few minutes too often. if you realy have to start them up do it every 2 or 3 months and make sure they run up to working temp to get everything warm otherwise its just causing condensation in the engine and exhaust . if i were to leave a car for a very long time i would probably just over inflate the tyres to make them less chance of flat spotting . everyone has there own ideas and preferences
  10. yeah its an interesting one.actually dont mind the grill it gives it a kind of mini trans am look to it.it looks like earlier models didnt have that feature but had the twin slots as early mantas instead.when you start googling things there were many different gm versions of our familiar vauxhalls sold around the world.interesting to look at and compare .
  11. some later models did have the one piece thermostat housing and matching top hose. different coil and no obvious brake pressure valve thou
  12. if were doin spot the difference ! different window winders and unusual half vinyl half velour seats too ! also but hard to tell 100% maybee early style non h4 headlights
  13. shouldnt do any damage providing there is still some free play in the lever when released.and not hitting the front when pressed either. i always thought the different dimention was because some clutches had the nylon / plastic thrust ring fitted on the fingers ? but then so did the later smaller clutch too. or was the larger clutch fitted with a different (cast iron rather than steel )operating fork. was this longer ? hence the slight different adjustment ?
  14. ah sorry i thought you had a standard coil.
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