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cam.in.head

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cam.in.head last won the day on March 31 2019

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About cam.in.head

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  1. it does indeed. this can also be due to a blocked gauze filter in the valve cover.depending on aluminium or steel type its possible to remove this (different methods)and clean it.this should allow the oil to drip back iinto the engine and only the fumes to come out.with an oil catch can you will still get fumes as it has to be open to the atmosphere which it wassnt designed to be. idealy you would fit a stub into the air filter so it can go back into the engine and you will get no smell then.
  2. if the seller wont swap them il just get some stainless 170mm bolts as the only problem cutting the 190mm ones down is that they are only threaded at the last bit. thanks mate for reply thanks snowy. ive nessaged him as like you said it probably isnt his fault realy and il see what happens. prob end up with a refund and get to keep them so il cut the tubes and buy some stainless bolts. cheers
  3. glad you got it sorted. i mentioned sliders etc being new because they come with new rubbers and metal cap and i think most also have a tube of high temp gease too. have answered your other topic mate too
  4. silly but obvious question. you have just lifted one wheel off the floor and rotated it ? ( or made sure only one wheel is turning ) hence propshaft as well realy sorry if ive insulted your intelligence but if you disconnect gearbox end all will be revealed anyway !
  5. hi to all. just a quick confirmation from other prople if possible. all my cars (cav mk1 )use the same length front anti roll bar post.with a bolt length (inc head) of 170mm .ive checked also on some spares in shed too. ive just bought some off ebay but they arrived as 190mm.this will bring the top of the rod quite near the upper arm. ive sent the seller a message anyway but can anyone confirm / agree or note what the longer ones may be from ? ?
  6. if the caliper on the other side of the car is ok and its just this one i would just try removing the sliding tubes (which i assume you have fitted new ones) and just make 100% sure that they are flat on the bottom ,no burrs and also run a fine file on the mounting area on the stub.any slight uneveness here will make them tighten up crooked.as snowy says they are a crap design and seize up for fun but once working and lubed thay should be ok for a couple of years .as you are tightening them check caliper for movement ( sliding) and soft mallet tap to centralise if needed. once tightened fully up they sometimes go very stiff and this surely indicates a slight mounting surface irregularity. obviously they will have an amount of residtance anyway due to the grease and rubber rings but thry shouldnt jam up in any way. when you say the pedal has excessive movement unless hose is clamped it sounds like the issue is just with this one side so without clamping it but g clamping the piston itself then you can prove that its all down to the caliper movement issue also going right back to your first post ,you say "caliper bush" you are meaning the sliding sleeve arnt you . the part which you mentioned is new ? ? (sliders)? just to clarify
  7. yes the caliper piston(if stepped like yours) should be set as shown to stop the brake grabbing but even if its in the wrong position it wouldnt make the caliper twist like that . first thing i would check is that with the pads removed the caliper can slide freely in and out on the sliders.they are a known issue and rely on the stub axle mounting face to be perfectly flat otherwise they will tighten down crooked ,thus making the caliper seize or be very stiff. so make sure they move ok first then reposition the pistons if you can (raised section points towards the nipple if you dont have the correct angle tool) then check pads are flat( hold up to disc and check they dont rock) cant see this being a bleeding issue but one more quick bleed on them after its all back together wont hurt
  8. hi. according to my parts book the top number on the mounting is correct so its always been right just faulty now.the shield is probably correct although it is a slightly different style to the early cars and looks to have been fitted wrong.this may have chopped the chunk out of it and bent it too !. 90000356 also same part is 684242 & 90095520 of my stock some are marked GM ,some are marked OPEL
  9. fiddly ! ha ha yes mine was too.but it did lift high enough without needing bracket off . that heat shield looks either homemade or the wrong type modded to fit . all mine are like in your picture from the drawing.more square style . the mount looks correct not sure about part number but can check mine tommorow if youre struggling.
  10. hi and welcome along. everyone has their own opinions on what to do with the car. i thought id throw in my pennys worth too ! the earlier cavs did seem to be a bit better built than later mantas and seemed to survive better in some areas rust wise but that all depends on how its been looked after,where its been stored etc etc so treat it as an unknown and check everywhere. usual suspects ,sills,usually starting at rear end of outers and working its way along and eventually inners and footwells especially if any water leaks. chassis sections seems to start at the suspension lower mounting bolt area( visible from looking just behind front wheel). various other areas eventually all dependant on storage,etc etc, rear wheel arches,boot floor,battery tray,behind headlamps/ inner wings.etc etc etc. check all this lot first and if all is well you have got a good one.not that its not repairable if you find otherwise but lerning to weld or having a friend who can will be beneficial in the long run. engine wise theres no reason why a 1.6 should be any less reliable than any other engine.( some say a bit underpowered but depends on what you want)/compare it to !)at least it will be easier to insure as an unmodified car for a start. the 1.6 was possibly the most popular and had points and condensor just like many other cars of the era and could be changed to electronic ignition if so desired,the carburettor was a solex and fairly reiliable.my 1.6 ran a solex for many years with no real issues.my 2.0 is still on a varijet and ive no intention of making it non standard . changing to a larger but same type engine is the easiest way if you plan to change it (2.0,2.2, even 2.4) or going for a v8 if you so desire is doable but i wouldnt know anything about that job. others will . unleaded fuel should run the engine ok for a good few thousand miles providing you dont grind the valves in ,(lead memory .)my viva has run unmodified on unleaded for 5000 miles and no changes have happened to the valve clearances or running anyway,see what you have got first, theyre a good car to work on,fantastic to drive and look good too.parts availability isnt too bad either but obviously some bits are getting harder to find . cross that bridge when you come to it/ decide what you are doing.
  11. dont forget you can only replace the mounts one at a time & when you have replacements ready.or thats how i do it anyway .otherwise theres nothing for the engine to sit on. dont 100% quote me on that as it may be that lifting the engine and removing both will be ok but the engine will only be held up on the jack and could topple to one side and trap wires,etc or fingers ! plus youd be leaving the jack under till the new ones arrive. the early carltons as well as mantas used to have the block type on both sides then later mantas got a round damped type on lhs. carltons got them on both sides but i personally never noticed any difference noise,refinement or otherwise ,they must be fitted for a reason otherwise they wouldnt have bothered. i would imagine there were improvements just me that didnt notice !
  12. hi. easy enough to remove.one at a time.this is how i do it. undo the top nut, undo the bottom nut( fiddly) lift the engine with a block of wood under the sump and trolley jack. (some people dont lift the engine much but prefer to undo the actual engine bracket but this just seems like extra work and the bottom bolts arnt exactly the easiest to reach.) remove mounting when gap is big enough ,replace new mounting and top heat shield and very slowly let jack go down whilst ensuring the top slot all lines up. or have someone on jack operating duty ! DONT TRAP FINGERS ! ive had a good look around ebay but nothing obvious. however the audi 80 ones do look very similar with a bit of modification but not seen one in the flesh
  13. hi. yes looking at that better picture it does look suspect. maybee even detached from the metal but definately suspect. never tried the bobbin type but seen them for sale.always kept mine original style. the round ones are freely available on ebay and found on many gm vehicles .i seem to recall also seeing some of the other type too ,maybee listed as audi ? compatible ? il have a look and let you know if i can find them again !. i have one of the larger and firmer style frrom a 6 cylinder if you struggle .
  14. its hard to tell from the picture but the heatshield locates in a little slot (as does the engine bracket) so its either moved( seems to look ok) or the rubber has sunk a bit. there should be a gap under the central section .someone may have a good used one available if in doubt . or the metal plate is just bent diwn a bit ?
  15. yes a rubber one (frontera 2,4) type should be better . the cork ones especiallly cheaper ones seem to be a bit pourous and seep quite soon.i usually make 100% sure both surfaces are clean and always use a snear of silicone both sides.
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