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cam.in.head

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  1. dont worry too much about the pressure .the valve is there to reduce the pressure if you brake hard . if you sort out the pedal travel all should be well.
  2. and with handbrake on hows the pedal travel
  3. there ya go. its usually something simple in the end.glad its sorted now
  4. 19mm bore should be the standard ,dont think you can get larger . you definately have the inserts fitted into the cylinders and located into the slots on the shoes correctly ? if your car is pre 82/83 they should be manual adjusters ,usually stiff thou.later cars are fully auto. is the pedal hard with the handbrake on ( does the handbrake lock the wheels ok ?)
  5. if the pedal moves down a long way with the handbrake ON then its air trapped somewhere or a faulty item . if it only travels a long way with the handbrake OFF then its an adjustment issue inside one or both drums.
  6. let us know how you go on with the brake band adjustment. my 2 boxes have never had this adjusted as they were and are still working fine so was advised by a local g box specialist to leave it alone except cleaning or replacing the filter.i also had major problems with replacement cork gaskets leaking.( slow seep realy) as they were not oem items. think i eventually bought a sheet of viton rubber and made a gasket from that. no leaks from that area since but did have from kickdown cable outer sheath being cracked and brittle due to exhaust heat.
  7. hi ian. wont do any harm especially as you say to avoid getting it in the heater core. pity you couldnt have found the pinhole .it would have soldered up as original rads are copper i beleive not ali. if you are doing this whilst looking for a spare bear in mind an auto rad from a mk1 carlton or rekord 78-83 is also the same unit(2.0 but not 2.2) bar the outer frame which is swappable. or as has been said ,fit a standard 1.9/2.0 rad with a cooing loop or suitable unit. also il keep an eye on ebay .stuff turn up eventually
  8. hi. yes 100% as herman says . also as you have found out ,if it does leak past this drive unit it will come out of any cracks in the cable and most cars with their original cable will be suffering some leakage or cracks by now. my cable had a very small drip in this area but cable was otherwise working perfect so i seem to remember just rubber taping it up in the late 90's and it hasnt dripped since but i will now go and replace the o rings in the drive too. usually on auto boxes the kickdown cable seems to suffer a similar if not worse fate especially due to its close proximity to the hot exhaust.i spent 5 years tracking down this leak on a carlton box ! best case either way is to replace o rings and new speedo cable for the original issue
  9. if it was the same with the original electronic ignition system i would just refit that ,strobe it at cranking speed or very low idle.proper coil for electronic ignition,good leads,arm,cap and plugs and thats ignition side forgotton about. basic compression test with starter motor to listen for obvious speed differences,low cylinders, guage compression test you have done and was equal. cam timing shouldnt have moved or be wrong but its easy enough to check.remove rocker cover ,turn engine to top dead centre (not front pulley mark as this will be 5 deg before ) either turn it approx 5 or so mm after front pulley mark ,this will only be approx thou( basic maths vs pulley diameter should allow you to work out a definate top dead centre mark !),or look for the timing mark indicator RIVET not pointer in bellhousing under exhaust manifold(awkward), or remove front pulley and look for vertical keyway, or as a final resort remove plug number 1 and CAREFULLY insert a pencil or similar object to lay on the top of the piston and show its highest point if you rotate engine a small amount . once you have found tdc the 3 bolt front camshaft pulley fixings and locating dowel should be virtually straight.( they will be a small amount retarded due to some inevitable timing chain stretch but not miles out.see haynes book for picture. if its 180 deg out just turn engine one full rotation forward. if thats all ok. spin engine on starter with ignition disconnected or turn by hand and make sure all arms are lifting by the same amount and closing ok. camshafts have been known to wear lobes away but usually only on the earlier carburettor engines .but worth checking. if any valves were not closing properly your compression test would have shown this but not necessarily if they hadnt been opening. make sure again there are no air leaks on the inlet side especially the flexible servo hose . hope this brings you a step closer and i wish i lived a bit closer as would have loved to pop and help you on this .hopefully a nearby member can do so because when you find whats wrong it will most likely be something obvious. all the best
  10. great photo with massive feet ! or has he just got massive feet ! he knows where your missing nut is .haha
  11. hi. no its not a moving part or one that you should try to touch but they do tend to leak there. if yours is not then all is fine.if it does then the later manta 82 ish onwards have a better designed valve that doesnt leak !
  12. the spade connector to the metal holder inside the headlight are usually a poor connection but this only runs the sidelights. sounds more like you need to clean the inner wing earth and possibly replace or check carefully the lug.i would go for a nut and bolt with serrated washer to get a perfect connection.
  13. sorry was thinking jessica !. no offence .
  14. hi ian ,cannot reply on your speedo cable thread so....... an auto cable will fit the manuals but as you found out not the other way around ! fitting are the same providing you can just reroute to loose the extra length thats all. also carlton mk1 cables are very similar if not identical
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