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cam.in.head last won the day on March 31

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  1. That sounds fine to me it's not a standard cav/ manta alternator like you would normally see fitted so the extra terminal confusion cleared up by Jess above. All the standard issue ones,even on the monza ,senator(higher amps but different brackets ! ) etc only had the normal 2 or 3 terminals
  2. the earth lead goes from anywhere on the casing to the bolt on the engine bracket. the terminal marked IND goes to your dashboard (battery light) the large terminal with the m6 nut is your battery cable positive.and that is it .all done ...............except............. some alternators will have a second b+ terminal for the regulator (some delco ones have it ,some dont and i dont think the bosch ones do ) if it does just link it with a smaller guage wire to the main large terminal.(pos)
  3. yes definately otherwise the inbuilt voltage regulator wont have anything to reference the output to same idea as the b series,little 6mm sq cable from body to engine bracket.
  4. hi. the usual aftermarket cylinders are slimmer in design casing wise but so long as theyre 19mm bore thats ok. never had a problem with leakage from the pipe nuts but obviously just make sure theyre made to the correct flare end otherwise that may be your issue .just checked my spares stock for you and all are a concave double flare
  5. Ian. Will you please stop giving my brain ideas that I never thought of doing. ! just when I thought my cars were nearly finished !!!
  6. they can be repaired too if you wish. they wear away the pivot point / shaft and can be drilled out and re pinned with a bit of patience .this is a good idea if your handle is otherwise pit free especially on the earlier chrome type. otherwise as mentioned make sure the rubber stop is still present and adjust the operating rod to eliminate any play as well
  7. yes but keep your old one especially if its a hatch and in good order! i dont see why not. havnt measured but i cant see the dimension between shock turrets being any different coupe to hatch so providing you have the depth and put the mounts in and hole into the inner wing. would eliminate any rust issues
  8. hi. a carburettor tank just has one output pipe 8mm .whereas an injection tank also has a return 8mm stub next to it..the feed will also be larger 10 or 12mm also if its a hatch and you have chance of a good tank i would get it as finding good ones is getting harder. coupe ones dont rust as theyre inside
  9. hi ian. the issue with the rocker cover is a possible few things. aftermarket cork gaskets tend to be a bit more feeble composition to the original density cork gm and some aftermarket types ,the oil can actually seep oil through !.contratry to some recommendations i always firstly stick the gasket onto the rocker cover pegs with black silicone .( these pegs can become flattened if anyone has ever overtightened the bolts,hard to get right after this exept maybee skimming the pegs off ?) making sure its properly in place inbetween the pegs .a clean surface is essential.then a thin smear of silicone on the bottom of the gasket as you fit it. dont overtighten it .! as for the auto box dont condem it yet. check the fluid level again .(fully warmed up,level ground,engine running)or maybee double check the brake band adjustment, a gearbox specialist told me to never touch mine unless there was an issue .so i never did. at least theres another box available if required.
  10. it depends on wether you are fitting a full sill with threshhold or just an outer side panel. original full sills are only spot welded but if i was fitting a side panel i would spot the bottom and do a full run and grind on the top edge .others mayhave different opinions
  11. dont use any harsh solvents like thinners or petrol but panel wipe should be ok if you have some. and then boot polish or some armourall if you wish.
  12. Cylinders appear correct. Can't see from the pic but they do have the recess in the end and have the bullet type insert thingy tha locates into the shoes dont they ? otherwise see what happens when you put the new pipes and flexi on . this is certainly an unusual one ! But we love a challenge !
  13. wow this is definately turning into a challenge . i assume after trying all that you have covered every possibly scenario. you have blanked off the master,bypassed the pressure valve ,clamped every hose,run rears on their own,run front n/s on its own,run front o/ on its own ?. with master all sealed off you get a solid pedal. with everything plumbed in and bled and all 3 hoses clamped you get a solid pedal . everything good untill you open the line from master to valve to caliper is it solid with other 2 hoses unclamped and front n/s clamped ? if it was a displacement issue pedal wouldnt be good with rears and front o/s working .if im reading all this correctly it sounds like an issue with either the pressure valve but you have had it bypassed .yes ? just stop a bit and have a breather. you will get there one final thing but might not be related if i recall the rear circuit connection on the master has a valve / of some sort which screws in before the pipe .not 100% sure if its a limit or a return valve of some sort but both mine have got it .pipe wount fit without it as the thread is too big ?
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