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cam.in.head

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Everything posted by cam.in.head

  1. it certainly can yes. adjust to give around 6/7mm of free movement and then check brakeswitch. i did mine last week. ive more or less sprung back into shape now !
  2. its very easy to fold up and get into those positions ! just extremely hard to get back out again ! and the amount that you spring back into 'person' shape gets less and less .! ive just replaced my brake servo and that involves a lot of under dash work.to fit and adjust. got under there and did it easily in 10 mins ! then took what seemed like an hour to get out again ! ! ! !
  3. that doesnt make any sense. probably just coincidence. if it were mine i would be 100% making sure that the earth cables are definately ok .removing,cleaning and refitting them. they wont cause a clutch problem as such but will make the clutch cable stretch and need constant adjusting .let alone other damage starter motor current flowing where it shouldnt will do ! other people must have used the same engine,flywheel,clutch,gearbox combo before so see what other replies pop up. hope i have been some help but running out of ideas now !
  4. so sounds like ...even thou the pedal is moving the fork the required amount and you have no touching of the fork at both extremeties the movement is not enough to disenguage the disc. someone else here must have used this combination of flywheel ,disc,cover so hopefully someone may have an idea that we are missing ?? sounds to me like a lining wavy washer issue ,disc touching fywheel or something i cant quite put my finger on . i do keep mentioning the wavy washer issue as its happened to me once before. but not something you can realy see with it all in place .with the pedal pressed by someone you may be able to see the cover lifting and see if you can see the edge of the disc but i imagine it will be awkward .theoretically if you can see inside you should be able to see the cover lift and a gap appear. the disc should spin if you could get something in to touch it ? sorry i cant be any more specific. something is stopping it disenguaging so unless anyone else does come along it may be a stripdown again ? at the end of the day. the cable pulls the arm (fork) and the fork pushes the bearing into the fingers to diseguage so theres not much to it realy . also . you mentioned about the electrical issue. ? ? ?
  5. if you are also experiencing a higher than normal fuel guagereading then this is the usual issue caused by the dashboard voltage regulator.purely a heat/ mechanical switch and prone to failures.test by putting the sensor wire to earth via a 40 ohm resistor. and. as jess says you can fine tune a working guage by adding a resistor in series or parallel depending on which way it is out. you can also (if im correct) slightly calibrate a guage mechanically.i think they have some kind of screwdriver sliding slot / arm type adjustment internally . different actual sensors by different manufacturers can also vary a bit too.
  6. i assume that you have got the damper block at the top of the cable ? this would solve massive washer issues or extreme adjustments but the fact that you have got 120mm on the fork which is more than standard and still cannot get it to release fully even with a level pedal suggest something more internal with the clutch. clutch fork adjustments aside .and cable adjustments aside it sounds like you havnt got enough movement to go from fully ENAGED to fully DISENGAGED. which sounds worrying. 100% check visibly throught the fork gap (bellhousing hole)that the release bearing is properly engaged into its pegs on the fork. cannot see how it would not be but try to be sure anyway for elimination purposes. remeasure fork adjustment. (109mm is standard,120mm is better PROVIDING the fork is not hard up against the back of the hole/ bellhousing aperture. cable (idealy) has the damping block at the top with its two rubbers ,large bulkhead washer and possibly an extra washer between end of cable and front rubber. cable at bottom through bellhousing usually has a washer (mine have). cable is adjusted to give a level (or above) pedal height. (too low and you wont have enough travel,too high and you will either switch on the wear indicator light or pull the release fork tight up to the front of the hole(unlikely) so theoretically the clutch should be fully engaged and some slack in the fork when pedal released and the clutch should be FULLY released plus extra when the pedal is all the way down. if this isnt happenning then something internal is wrong. as i mentioned before i have seen new discs with too much spread due to the internal wavy spring making the clutch disc too thick .this causes drag .but thats a manufacturing error which is very unlikely but i have seen it once.( on a recon disc) theres a name for this internal spring. i forget now but its there to give a nice smooth take up.
  7. its hard to tell 100%, most likely new as theres no signs of bolt head marks around it but (again hard to tell) there are a few knocks and bumps around it. and some circular marks under the water pump . doesnt matter anyway realy as we have said. no one surely will buy it anyway at that price just to get a good oil pump ! £50 or so for a used one in good nick is acceptable and maybee £150-£200 for a new one sounds better.
  8. the guage can vary between cars anyway as its entirely an analogue heat related unit but generally they rest about half to 3/4 of the normal range with a 92 deg thermostat.you can test a guage and use it as a comparison by unplugging the sender and fitting a 40ohm resistor to earth temporarily to see where the guage goes. this again is not 100% consistent between perfectly ok working cars (2 of mine read exactly half way ,1 reads just under and one reads just over !)but can at least spot issues such as the usual voltage reg failure making the guage read too high. best way is to point a temperature gun at the thermostat housing and surrounding areas to get a more accurate idea if required./ comparison with other vehicles .
  9. early senator,royale,viceroy im pretty certain all are the same .just 100% check shape around front by indicator to be sure as its a while since ive played with early cars. plus. front wings are very hard to find for them now. if it can be repaired may be an option !
  10. sounds like you are earthed ok then but no harm double checking especially as you are having starter related symptoms which a bad earth would give !. on the standard setup with the earth braid across from the block under the manifolds and to the chassis they frequently gave trouble by bad connection or rotting cable .
  11. yeah the ecu lives in the same place as on a manta and can easily get wet if water comes down the side. quite hard to see on the drivers side (easier on the passenger ) but you can look (or feel ) up the side and check as far as you can reach/ see. the area is awkward to repair with the dash in place if it needs doing as its usually high up where they rust,and not any easier with the outer wing off either as its behind the triangular reinforcement. not saying yours will definately be bad there but it is known. if the inner wing tops need any work i would strongly reccomend removing outer wings and then you have better acess to the area. on mine which was only just starting to lift in 1994 when i bought it .i removed the entire section of visible inner wing at the side of the strut tower forward to the bulkhead divider and up to the wing mounting rail. then repaired ANY slight rust or imperfections on the thicker reinforcement section underneath it. mine was not that bad at all back then ,in fact better than i thought but wanted a long lasting if not permanent repair. then i replaced the section of inner wing i had removed with 18 guage galv. this area is as good now as it was in 94. other carltons/senators have rotted badly in this area. regarding parts . i should have some rear lights,front cd lights,gaskets,various engine parts and a brand new passenger side inner wing.its on ebay at the moment with a reserve of £400 but can do you a better deal.
  12. hi jess. yes excellent cars and mechanically (engine wise and injection) virtually identical to our 4 cylinder versions. i have a few spares left from my senator days so will have a root around. main issue with these cars is water leaks into the ecu down the side of the footwell due to corrosion( or poor repair to corrosion) of the strut top/ inner wing area. many a car was scrapped due to this. the inner wing is double skinned onto the heavier guage strut top mount area and was a moisture trap. the rusted area was then frequently just welded up as a single layer thinner guage repair with no structural strength.the under area has a heavy guage 'triangular' reinforcement that hold all the weight and gives rigidity, without this the inner wing opened up and rolled the outer wings over creating big gap between bonnet and wing and untimately collapsed. rest of the car has the usual issues to sills and rear inner wing fronts.chassis areas usually ok .can rust on rear chassis by rear spring top mount and lower rear arms corrode by spring seats. nothing a seasoned manta owner will be frightened by thou ! just check repair quality in these areas if its had any .
  13. silly question .bear with me . ! Is the engine earth cable present and correct ? if this is broken,missing or a bad connection can cause starter motor current to find its way through other means such as clutch,acc,speedo cable with obvious bad results. otherwise check clutch fork is not now binding up against bellhousing slot and has some free rearward movement left.
  14. they only realy wear out on the oil pump internal casing anyway .obviously the usual snapped water pump bolts as well if your not carefull.
  15. that will definately allow for more travel. providing threres a clearance all should be ok. the stock 109 mm adjustment allows that clearance to be more and would also help some owners who dont check the adjustment when they service it.
  16. i suppose anything can (and will) pop up on ebay eventually .but at that price it will stay there !
  17. always adjust the fork first. the stock adjustment means that the lever is not up against its slot in the bellhousing when released and wont touch the other side when fully depressed. as the clutch wears ( or beds in / same thing realy !) the fork moves further backwards and if left to its own devices will become tight up against the edge. so theoretically as long as its adjusted to spec and is clear of the edge there should be no issues fork wise. stock adjustment is as you say 109mm from just on the bellhousing edge to just wrapped around the fork. then adjusting the cable (washers if required but i personally always fit a couple at the gearbox end anyway. should give the required movement. obviously if its a non standard clutch in any way the standard measurements MAY not be correct . if you cannot get it to release even by adjusting the cable to max height (i usually aim for level) and tweaking the fork rearwards a smidgen means an actual clutch issue/problem. clutch discs especially when new have sprung steel between the actual faces to enable a smooth take up .if extreme this can cause issues .as the discs expands too much . other issues could be ......disc in wrong way round ( this would cause no gear engagement or clunks as it hits the flywheel bolts).......tightness on splines........fork not in release bearing groove.(should be realy obvious).
  18. hi. heres a good one for you all to ponder ! the later varijet carbs were fitted with a little damping valve in line with the second stage vacuum pull off canister. i cannot find anywhere any reference as to which way round it should go. mine is a half white half black type. haynes does show and mention it but its a different one to mine ! typical !.
  19. also it may look better once the trim strip is on the nose.the gap does look big without it. sorry if im talking silly here ,you have the car in front of you ,im just looking at pictures !
  20. hi ian you should be able to get to the carb nuts with a smaller (or modified/sawn spanner).they are a bit tight against the carb body.without taking rocker cover off. the rocker cover has either been done like you say without a gasket but more likely just had a good coating of sealant on the gasket.the cork gaskets especially cheaper ones do seem to leak especially if the breathers are a bit blocked ! and need a smear of silicone generally. id leave it for now unless you definately need it off.or if you fear bending it wait till you get a replacement.
  21. yes on the carb models the yellow fuel line runs down the passenger side but the tank outlet at theback is on the drivers side hence the metal link pipe above the axle.
  22. yes ive used the method many times. idea is if you lift the lid with washers the tilted hinge will then go down further as you close it. sometimes the coupe hinges (being quite long ) were not always perfect even when new.
  23. the longer metal peice just goes from the tank outlet(via a short hose) around the front of the tank above the rear axle. yellow pvc / nylon to front and stops near alternator. hose down to fuel pump . short hose to metal pipe up front of engine by top radiator hose and to carb inlet.(via hose on 1.6) small metal bracket to camshaft cover bolt.
  24. thats exactly what i did too. superglue and then rubber paint (roof repair paint worked well) rollered on.
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