Jump to content

cam.in.head

Users
  • Posts

    1,401
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Everything posted by cam.in.head

  1. not had or seen it myself on my cars or others but obviously anything can rust out if the circumstances are right, obvoisly plenty of other more common areas ive had to deal with over the years. the part at the top .the long complete chassis section i once had brand new in a gm dealer clearance i once bought. but didnt think id ever need it and binned it a good few years ago ! along with various other bits of chassis pieces for various gm cars. shame realy but back then nobody would have bought them even if ebay had existed .
  2. oh definately. trouble is you end up being a bit of a hourder. i have kept many parts from the eighties thinking i may need them but over the years after many a spring clean lots of now valuable parts have been binned. back in the day there was no ebay so that was the only thing to do. shamerealy as ive thrown many wings and other panels away that only had very small rust areas.still got a few bits left though.but nothing like i had. i used to buy cars for £20 just for the fun of learning how to dismantle them and see how stuff worked. lost to the scrapman were many an ascona,cav,manta,royale,carlton and a pretty mint mk1 granada ! in the next coming months/ years i will tidy up further and list any bits i dont think il need ! ( bad statement !)
  3. it looked like it fetched a good price. when i needed to loose some storage space last year ( i think although could have been year before ?) i had 3 lock ups full of loards of cav/ manta stuff and put an ad on here but hardly got any replies. most of it went to the tip in the end.just kept a few bits that i might need in the future. shame realy but no one wanted anything then. seems like they would have sold now but thats sods law for ya
  4. i think our brains knowwhat its supposed to say and just auto correct it !
  5. true.very rare.but a hell of a lot of money for a part that usually never rots.( at least on cavs anyway ,)
  6. thats what ive been using. even in my modern car too. no issues exept a bit dearer but everything has gone up anyway ! although............ when you read about other countries especially ones that have E85 and some that have had E 10 for ages they seem to suggest that we are worriyng about nothing ?
  7. all connections should be the same . the early delco ones had a little connector block on the side that linked to the main + terminal.( instead of internally) later delco just had the main + terminal bosch also just have the + terminal. they all have an earth terminal and a spade for the ign light.
  8. i have used a suitable sized ball bearing in the past as the nylon ones can leak when they get marked but unless the cover has been fitted wrong as mentioned or the spring sticking theres no reason why you would get too high a pressure. with 20w50 you shouldget good pressure at idle when warm(1-3 bar on a good engine) and lower if using w40 or thinner ?. but at idle the pressure valve isnt doing anything.the spring usually weakens and can end up giving you a maximium pressure of 3 bar ( or less of very weak or broken) but ive never heard of one getting stuck and going too high. anything is possible thou, mine sits at 2 at idle when warm and will rev to 5 when hot . whats yours showing ? ps. bypass is easy to check. just remove filter and make sure it will open ok.
  9. ive said before butthe prices of cars now is getting stupid. £20000 for a car that looks immaculate but with dubious mot history and illegal number plates !
  10. good luck soldering the tabs back on. i never managed it but what i did was bought some self adhesive copper sheet.this has to be the type with conductive glue. i beleive its used for guitar sheilding and other uses. i fitted a long strip on each side . i then soldered the tabs to that. no problems so far. also regarding the washer jets.if they are working ok and not damaged they will t cut up well .( or even repaint !)
  11. hi. standard front springs are a tad over 9 1/2 turns of approx 12.5 mm spring steel.they are the same thickness throughout. rear springs ( proper cavalier ones) i havnt got one here to count but they look similar length and thickness wise but have the last turn on each end made thinner. i hope this helps .
  12. hi there and welcome. 1.6 have manually adjusted tappets( valve clearance ) so do tend to have a little noise compared to a 2 litre but it shouldnt be excessive and wont realy make lot of difference to the driving experience once youve got used to it. as regards unleaded. yes in theory it would need hardened exhaust valve seats fitted but in reality especially if you dont rev it up into the red and dont do a lot of mileage it will be fine. the valve seats will have lead still on them (called lead memory)and this remains for a long time . you could use a lead additive which may help but personally ive run a viva on unleaded for many hears with no issues unmodified. obvious rust issues far outweigh any mechanical problems and it needs checking over in all the usual manta rust spots to rectify if found or protect if good.im sure youve already checked basic areas especially being a past manta owner. fantastic cars and even the 1.6 is perfectly capable in todays traffic ( some may dissagree !) and in my preffered form of standard suspension they are a very nice car to drive and comfort beats many a modern eurobox.if not all ! enjoy.
  13. they look a bit rough thou.and looks like one adjuster has a broken pin if not seized anyway. ( would work on a gte thou if you didnt use the manual adjusters at all)
  14. i would saythat if the listing is correct (senator) then it will not be any use to a gte. the gte uses a right angled adaptor and the thread into the block is much coarser than our sender units.that looks a course thread on that one so physically cant go on without the adaptor as its too near the exhaust. it could be fitted above the oil pump at the front i beleive. im sure thats a course thread ?
  15. if you unplug the oil pressure sender plug from the loom ( if its still there) join both wires to earth. the light should be on and the guage should read zero. if all ok suggests loose wire on sender unit. if still not on suggests wiring to dash ,dash connector or bulb
  16. cannot seem to reply to my last parts wanted ad for spring top rings and disc shield. now obtained so please delete. now looking for a pair of original GM stamped track rod ends ( cav 1 ,manta b).used will be fine.( my current ones have lasted since 1976 and only got damaged on thread during removal so i know they are good quality. boots not important thanks
  17. just had a look under both of mine for you. all have the bulge . ps and if you dont mind me saying " thats a damm fine rubber bush you got in there. did you change it or is it the original. they seem to last forever anyway but are an absolute bugger to change !
  18. just make sure you get the one designed for constant 12v (bosch kw12v)and not the earlier coil used with points.this coil only runs at 6-9v and will soon burn itself out if fitted to a electronic injection car which yours is. to check. measure the resistance across the 2 outer terminals.which should be less than 1.0 ohm.( 0.6-0.9) NOT 1.2-1.6 ohm .(early points coil)
  19. hi. am looking for the top metal ring for the front top spring rubber. and a good n/s disc shield please many thanks
  20. checked a few of mine. no difference in any shape wise except : later ones ( presumably) have a brace welded across near the steering rack bolt hole and they also have a reinforced welded on washer for thesame bolt hole too. otherwise i think its the shiny paint thats making it look different as mentioned above.
  21. hi. yes esso synergy 99 for me too . been using it a while . not noticed any running differences at all.either good or bad but at least iknow its ethanol free so il be using it in all mine for now.
  22. this is the one major problem with making a car perfect in all areas especially underneath. i did all mine a few years back and deox bathed every suspension arm and painted back to new. all looked fantastic but a few journeys in the rain or a couple of winters and they looked average again. just working my way through all mine again this year and will re do everything again as i did before. worth it though as at least you know every bush,joint and boot is perfect.
  23. absolutely. i always try to fix everything too. when you consider that a lot of new aftermarket stuff is so inferior these days it makes total sence repairing your old part. plus over the years ive had many an issue with so called recondition parts such as engines ( gmx even ) and gearboxes and steering racks.all claimed to be recon as good as new !. fix,refurb,rebuild your own original stuff and it should last years !
×
×
  • Create New...