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mantasrme

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mantasrme last won the day on February 3

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About mantasrme

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    Manta Nut

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    http://www.mantasport.co.uk
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
  • Name
    David Howell

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  1. They bolt to the inside of the door at the top. About an inch down from the top and about 1/4 3/4 along the length of the glass you will see a round hole with a slotted bolt hole inside it. The L brackets go inside the door with the bolt through the slot and the rubber feet down and in. They limit the up travel of the window by the rubber part sitting against the ends of the metal rail at the bottom of the glass.
  2. I think the standard springs are nearer 150lbs, i've seen 250lbs listed as an upgrade. Although that may have been for an A rather than B
  3. I've always used 400lbs front springs along with standard rears, combined with Bilstein dampers. Thats what i've used for Road-rallying over the years as well as my daily driver. Its a massive improvement over the standard setup. For track use or tarmac rallying i'd go harder at the front, but for anything other than really smooth tarmac you'll be skipping and crashing all over the place. You can purchase them from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293656897636 i've used these on my road car and customers cars and they give a good ride height.
  4. I've talked to my TVR mate and he has a few questions. What oil grade are you running in it? When this happened, Did the engine cut out or was it running, but just no power trying to stall etc. Then Is the auxillary belt a single V belt (about 10mm wide) or a multi-V belt about 25mm wide. That shows if it is an early or late chimera 4.0 engine. On Early engines (with the narrow single V belt) the dizzy is driven from the camshaft and in turn drives the oil pump that is just above the oil filter inside the front cover. Late engines the oil pump is on the front of the engine and directly driven from the crankshaft. If its an early engine the gear on the shaft driving the oil pump can fail. Also the pulley on the cam driving the dizzy can come loose or the woodruf key break, which would result in the car not starting as the dizzy is not turning. He says (if its an early one) turn the engine by hand with dizzy cap off to see if the rotor arm rotates. If not you have cam pulley issue. If it does rotate put rotor arm to No1 cylinder and mark the dizzy housing to engine cover and remove dizzy to check if the drive at the bottom that rotates the pump is in place. He's also seen oil pumps fail or just be so worn that hot thin oil will not produce the full pressure. There are other things it could be obviously and it depends if the oil pressure loss and new lack of starting are linked or an unlucky coincidence.
  5. The guy in the unit next to mine is a TVR specialist, i'll ask him if he has any clues to a likely suspect area for you.
  6. If you have removed the wiper arm stalk and reinstalled it and it now doesn't work. You may not have pushed it back in far enough. I've seen it several times, it fits in and feels like its home but rotating it does nothing as the tab isn't in the groove of the inner workings. If the end plastic is rotating on the shaft then i've never seen that before and your easiest option will be to replace the stalk.
  7. I'll have a look tomorrow at work i'm pretty sure i have some arches left. Otherwise drop them an e-mail at http://www.leidinger-tuning.de/ not everything is listed on their eBay shop (and they only list on eBay.DE) but they are very helpful and do good stuff
  8. Yeah they do take a little bit of time to make. I normally make a couple of sets whenever i make one to save on time swapping out the heads on the swagger for the different processes. No picture of the OS one though, which is different at the bottom than the NS so hope they aren't made the same. I might have to put my prices up too if thats the going rate
  9. Spewy fitted a floor mounted box to his rally car. Can be done but a lot of work and not suited to a road car because of the floor mods needed https://mantaclub.org/forums/topic/23894-god-i-hate-re-build-time-2/
  10. It doesn't look like a metric bolt thread, it looks coarse almost like a screw thread. The original nuts almost looks to be pressed from a flat sheet of steel and don't have threads inside all the way down. From memory they are the same as the nuts holding the heat shield to the floor under a gte
  11. The flange will pull straight out. The carlton 6 cylinder had a flange in their boxes along with a 2 piece propshaft manta didn't. But by the looks of the modified gear lever bracket someone has fitted that gearbox to a different setup somewhere along its life.
  12. iirc is 'If i remember correctly' They are M14 bolts originaly as Andy says they have a castle nut and split pin end to them. But i normally replace with a straight bolt and nylock nut
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