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mantasrme

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mantasrme last won the day on March 12

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About mantasrme

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    Manta Nut

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    http://www.mantasport.co.uk
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    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
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    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
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    David Howell

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  1. Half the time a knocking exhaust is purely down to the alignment of it while fitting. You really need the rear axle at ride height and full access to all of the exhaust to get the fit right. A 4 post ramp is ideal for this but it can be done with axle stands too. You need all the exhaust clamps loose and rotate the mid section to see what is the best position for the best clearance over the axle and past the panhard rod. Then you can do the back box. Often a little rotation of the mid section will get you that needed extra clearance, or even sliding it forwards/backwards a bit from where it is currently. This can lead to the rings that hold the mid box being loose one side which can be fixed either by different sized rings or by altering the hook on the box (easy enough to bend usualy)
  2. Another thing to look at is the inner column about 2 feet down inside the web section of the outer column. This is where it turns from a tube to the 3/4"DD shaft that goes through the lower bearing (all part of the collapsable column design). Originally this joint is held by plastic injected into it, however if the column has suffered impacts (like previous owners trying to remove the steering wheel with a hammer, or from hammering from bellow trying to remove/fit a tight UJ in the engine bay) the plastic pins that are designed to shear may have given up. They are designed to do so and allow the lower section to slide up inside the upper from a front end collision so the column isn't pushed at the driver. I've had a few where this has happened and the upper and lower parts can then move a little at this joint. So the upper section to the wheel is only supported by the bearing with a slight amount of movement at the bottom. Rather than supported at both ends by bearings that have no latteral movement. So what could be happening is the shaft is actually pivoting inside the bearing and showing as sideways movement. Hopefully that makes sense as its hard to explain clearly. But if you've fitted a new bearing and still have noticable play its worth looking at.
  3. No they are m10 already, The inlet/exh to cylinder head are M9 on the CIH
  4. You might find the inner column has been pulled up higher than it should be. Often when people remove steering wheels there are hammers involved which can break the plastic tabs that hold the inner upper and lower shafts together. They are designed to slide inside each other in case of a crash along with the collapsable outer tube. If the inner has been pulled up while the lower was still held by the U/J it basically lengthens the inner shaft total length. So when refitting you find the bearing surface that the upper bearing sits against is higher than it used to be and the switchgear won't fully push down. I'd put the nut on si its flush to the top of the shaft and tap the inner collumn down, if the switchgear also goes down with it that was your problem.
  5. Technically you don't need it to be injection grade for the 12mm pipe, carb pipe is fine as its only gravity feed to the pump there is no pressure inside it.
  6. I've used 1/2" on the fuel outlet before with no issues. Just use a decent jubilee clip
  7. Don't think you mean the GT/e pressure plate as thats a 4 bolt fitting and only works with the cih flywheel
  8. The aluminium T shaped panel is a heat sink for the ingition module to prevent it getting too warm. Back of the amp is bare metal and should have a compound spread on it to aid heat transfer into the alloy (it basically takes up the gaps between 2 surfaces that are not 100% flat, but also aids in transfer of heat). Most commonly known with cpu's to heatsinks in computers but used on all sorts of electronics and it dries with age and becomes less effective.
  9. Normally its the cover to match the flywheel and the friction plate of the right size to match the gearbox splines. The only Vauxhall plate that matches for the 16v engines will be one that fits the F28 gearbox. Did the x20xev ever come attached to an F28?
  10. Years ago i had a car that did that when you jacked it up. They never came unseated whilst driving it, and i had it airbourne over various stuff whilst road-rallying it back then. The dampers slow the suspension droop enough that you will be back on th eground well before they have dropped out. Well unless you are doing a dukes of hazzard jump over a bridge
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