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mantasrme last won the day on June 3

mantasrme had the most liked content!


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    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
  • Name
    David Howell

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  1. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  2. I have one, its a bit tatty paint wise but otherwise good and straight.
  3. Door trim covers for door handles and window winders, got beige round trims for behind the winder handles. I do have a pair of tatty beige trims inserts from behind the inner pull handles (if thats the bit you mean) although they look a bit orangier than the rest of the stuff 90 degree plastic top corner cover for drivers door rubber seal, I have a drivers side in light grey Front bottom seatbelt bolt cover/caps, which ones? Inner which is just a bolt head cap or outer that is a larger disc and covers part of the chrome loop too Front FM handles, I have a pair of the loop grab handles in beige need a good clean and have splits at the top outer (as they pretty much all do) plus the coat hook bit in beige for 1 side Sun visor hinges and clip. I have a beige passenger visor (no idea where the driver one went) but only clip i have is blue (again no idea why!) Pm me your email and i'll send some pics
  4. The thermostat I got for it didn't have a bleed option in it (think it was an old one judging from the box). So I drilled a small hole in the flat part to prevent the possibility of an air lock. I've done so many times in the past and it's always worked fine
  5. I've just replaced one on a customers car for the same reason. After a bit of a hunt using the part numbers I found the lotus carlton ones are the same fit. Randomly there is a seller on ebay that has a whole bunch on new old stock ones here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300285187696 its a perfect fit and bolts down fine. Although they don't have a bleed screw in the top. So just be sure that the thermostat you fit has a bleed hole in it.
  6. I've got a spare one i can send you if you want one still, needs a clean up but its not worn . Just PM me your address
  7. I've tried a rod down the plug hole so it moves with the piston but because of the low angle of entry it never really worked for me. Never tried a dial gauge down there, that could be ok as you can clamp the body firmly in place. The rod kept trying to fall out because more of it was outside the plug hole than in. I've never compared the flywheel pointer/mark to a measured true tdc, will have to remember to do that next time i'm fitting a cam. Of course that assumes the flywheel hasn't been fitted out of rotational alignment by someone along its life while doing a clutch change and flywheel skim
  8. I've always done it with the engine in the bay. But i have the head off to fit the new camshaft so its easy to get an accurate TDC marker. Finding tdc without the head off can be done its just harder to be accurate, and you really need to be accurate to get the cam timing spot on.
  9. I can't find what i wrote before about cam timing, but i'll give it a go explaining it again here. Please note this is how i do it,i'm not saying this is how anyone else should do it, or that this is the only way/ or even the right way First you need to know where TDC (top dead centre) of number 1 piston is. You can use the flywheel marker/ woodruff key position or whatever you like for this but it needs to be as accurate as you can possibly get it. For me I find this while the head is off and a dial gauge is set up against the top of no1 piston. Slowly rotate crank watching dial gauge, its upward travel will seem to stop for several degrees of crank rotation. TDC is half way between it stopping and starting again (i put a little tipex dot at each end point and check it a couple of times to be sure). I then add a groove on the crank pulley lip in line with the big timing case marking. I use a small triangular file and drop a bit of tipex in (wiping off the 2 other dots from before) Then i take the pulley off and lay it face down on a timing disc (the big plastic thing you get with kent cam kits thats basically a full 360deg protractor) Putting the new mark you just made on the 0 line go around clockwise to the timing for you cam (which is 103ATDC for the op254 according to kents site) and thats where you want to add another groove/tipex etc. Its clockwise with the pulley face down so when the pulley is back on the engine the mark will be 103deg of engine rotation after the tdc mark. To make it a bit easier i draw a line from 0 to the centre of the disc and 103 to the centre. Put your tdc mark on the 0 line with the pulley face down and as central on the disc as you can and the 103 line shows where your new mark goes. Then with the pulley back on the engine, head on and bolted down with cam fitted you setup the dial gauge on top of no1 cylinders inlet valve. Then watching the dial gauge again rotate the engine slowly until it tops out, there is a small dead spot like the piston topping out but its a lot less on the cam. But full lift is in the centre of those points again. Now look at the crank pulley. If the long timing case mark lines up spot on to your new 103deg mark the cam timing is correct. If it doesn't you need to loosen the allen bolts in the vernier slightly (you'll need to make a short extension allen key to reach them and probably take the plastic bit out of the centre of the cam). Then you can move it slightly and retighten. Then rotate engine twice and check again. If its better but not enough go a little more the same way. If its worse go the other way with the adjustment. I'm not going to try explain which way to go for what movement on the pulley as i normally get it wrong and then go back the other way even after these many years Couple of additional notes: You can add the 103deg mark to the pulley without taking it off the engine by holding the disc to the face of it. But for what little it takes to get the pully off i find it easier. Don't use a hex bit in a holder on a socket to loosen the vernier bolts, if that drops out down the timing case you are taking the engine apart to get it back (don't ask how i know its a painful memory from long ago!) If you hit the end of the slots in the vernier and still need to go further you will need to move the timing chain 1 tooth along. Make sure if using a dial gauge that the mount thats holding it is as firm as it can be, any movement or shake will screw up your work When you think you are right with a mark rotate the engine by hand a couple of full revolutions and see if it still looks right. Right i think that makes sense (at least to me) but i'll come back later and read it again and see if it still does then......
  10. What valve size is the head you have fitted? You just say bvh and i've seen many variations of those over the years. I've run a bvh with 45/40 valves on a 2.0 bottom end with an op234cam and standard injection and made 150bhp, so 140 from what you have isn't right certainly. If the valves are smaller than 45/40 46/41 they would be a restriction certainly and loosing some power but i wouldn't expect that to be enough to give such a low figure. Also as i say on FB cam timing is the thing i'd get right first. Its not that complicated to do and it can loose a load of power being just a few degrees out.
  11. These are the front springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manta-B-Ascona-B-Road-amp-Rally-Front-Springs-400lb-/294999547702 they are not listed currently, they were a couple of days ago and were in my watch list. I'm sure they will be relisted soon, its just because of the way they seem to list them one at a time.
  12. Ride height is a very difficult thing to predict. There are a lot of spring manufacturers out there and they make slightly different springs. For example a lot of ebay springs list the same spring for the front of a GT/e, exclusive, 1.8, and early b 1.6 which should be 4 different springs of different ride heights and different pundages for the type of ride the cars were designed to have. 1 spring will not be right for all those different cars. There are many instances of people fitting ebay springs and finding they now have monster truck ride height at the front of their car (The car SOS one being the most recent example of this). As for used springs they do sag over time and a lot of CIH engined manta's are sitting lower at the front than they did when new. Aren't you running a rover V8? if so i'm sure i remember those engines weighing around the same as the standard manta CIH engine does. So ride height for a set of springs in a GT/e should be the same for your car (or very similar) This is a picture of the front springs i use, they are 400lb progressive springs from On-lineAutosport via ebay as you can see the coils are all well spaced so the movement is spread between them all. They also put the ride height so there is some room between the end of the bumpstop and the lower arm. Something a lot of lowering do not do and leave you riding around on the rubber bump stops and crashing through pot holes This is the ride height of a GT/e with those 400lb front springs, standard rear springs and bilstein dampers all round. I fitted this setup to replace the lowered front springs that looked very much like yours when fitted with the bunch coilbound one end. It crashed around and was generally very uncomfortable to drive on anything not smooth. The 400lbs springs transformed it into a nice ride that is a pleasure to drive.
  13. Whichever way up you fit them they will still look the same in regards the amount of coilbound coils. But its not overloaded its a lowering spring that has been designed/made badly (in my opinion). You basically only have 3 coils that are allowing you movement. For those 3 coils to to take the weight of that corner of the car the actual coil needs to be much stronger. So you get very little movement for a bump and normally a harsh ride on anything thats not smooth road. Much better to have no coils bound up and the same effective spring rate at the wheel. So when you hit a bump all 6/7 of the coils can move a little for the same wheel movement which gives a more compliant ride.
  14. I've checked 3 shells i have in and going infront of the rear seat crossmember straight across just above the tunnel i get 1372mm on them.
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