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mantasrme last won the day on January 27

mantasrme had the most liked content!

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About mantasrme

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    Manta Nut

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  • Location
    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
  • Name
    David Howell

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  1. Still amazed this hasn't sold yet. i know everyone wants the coupes but really its a great price for a lot of car Assuming its all been bolted together well and there are no hidden issues. Has anyone even been to look at it and driven it?
  2. Paint prices vary a lot depending on the area you live in too. Harrogate is no where near cheap for paintwork because they can charge the earth and people around here will pay, where as i know of a couple of paintjobs on mantas that have been done around 30miles away that were just over half the price you can get in harrogate for the same job. Or if you want to go a bit further i can get a good paintjob on a fully stripped car for £1000 but you have to drag it to the north east
  3. So with the calipers mounted at 9 o'clock the cable needs to come in from the bottom of the astra bracket and pull the arm downwards. As its running horizontally back under the car how have you done the turn around the corner so the cable doesn't rub on the bracket?
  4. Do you have a pic of how the cable runs through the caliper brcket to the arm? I can't picture how it would without turning 90degress and rubbing
  5. It does look a little crispy around the edges. but with the availability of panels from germany on the up all the time it may not be as bad as you think. Wing mounting rails, floor pans, chassis rails, jacking points and swan necks are all easily available. Even the outer cover for the A post (around the hinges) is available now. The bulkhead pieces (behind accel pedal areas) are not available yet but they can be made easily from sheet metal. Same for the front of the washer tray area, just use sheet metal to form the pieces. This is one of the trickier areas as its the joint of 4 or 5 panels all in the one seam at the front (which is why it rots so bad) and you need to cut a fair amount out of all the panels to be able to make them one by one and rebuild. But its all been done and there are many pics on here in the build threads to show how it can be done. So plenty of research and do a section at a time until its all done.
  6. For the astra mk4 cable you need to lengthen the threaded rod for the handbrake yoke and add 2 stops for the outer cable under the car. Like this Then the caliper mounts behind the axle and cable approaches from underneath. For the manta handbrake cable the caliper needs to be mounted on top of the axle (which puts the bleed nipple at the wrong angle, but undo the caliper to bleed and then fit). I got a nylon piece made for the bracket to help the cable through a slight curve (must get some more made up). This is how i run them on my car as i do not want the cable under the axle.
  7. The PMC catalogue lists everything they included in the 150bhp kit, although not all the exact specifics about the cam angles or head porting. Which is as follows. 2" exhaust system and downpipes to reduce back pressure Group A head. Ported combustion chambers and ports, reduced valve throats. Light weight exhaust valves 38mm dia, 42mm inlet valves. 10.2/1 compression ratio PMC 3 camshaft 288deg duration and 10.8mm lift Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. increasing fuel pressure from 2.5 to 2.9bar K+N air filter element and ngk plugs All set up on a rolling road. Personally i think the 150bhp might have been a tad optimistic as my old cih engine was only running 148bhp and had the following spec Stg 3 head, very ported and 11.5-1 compression. From memory it had 45mm inlet 40mm exhaust (certainly they were the biggest you could ft without going offset guides) 0.5mm oversize pistons (so 2050cc) Kent OP234 camshaft and vernier which is listed as a 280deg 10.89mm lift cam Tony Law custom 2 1/4" exhaust system and downpipes adjustable fuel pressure reg K+N filter All setup on a local rolling road to get the best out of it. It was a good engine but not the best for driving around town as it needed some revs to get away from junctions and was quite lumpy at tickover. loads of power once up and running over 2500rpm and loads of fun to drive though. However biggest problem with making an engine like that nowadays is finding a modified head at a reasonable price. I'm sure Risse motorsport do them but at what cost? Especally when doing an XE conversion gives as much power in standard form with much more driveability and is a far better engine all round
  8. Unfortunately it doesn't have the timing figures, somebody may have a copy of the fitting instructions. But if not i seem to remember there is a way of timing a cam without the figures, that was covered in an issue of CCC and Walkers workshop i think
  9. The PMC 3 camshaft is a good one. I'd use that rather than a OP214, its more similar to a OP234 from the specs. I have an old PMC catalogue and it lists the pmc3 as 288deg valve duration, with maximum valve lift of 10.8mm, and they were all machined from fresh GM blanks. Its designed for injection and was offered as part of their 150bhp gte tuning kit along with a ported head, raised compression decent exhaust and adjustable fuel pressure reg.
  10. If your rubber seal is in good condition and still soft flexible rubber then you shouldn't need sealer.
  11. I'm also not sure how long a 240 would last behind the torque of a lexus v8. Have you looked at the mazda rx8 gearboxes? They do an adaptor plate for fitting them behind the lexus v8 engine and its a way stronger gearbox
  12. I do not believe the carlton disc you refer to above is actually the right one. It lists as fitting the mk2 and mk3 carlton and as far as i know they are completely different setups, the mk2 is a 4 stud hub and the mk3 is 5 stud. So i think that is a mistake in the listing and the wrong disc for your car The brake caliper looks to be the early vectra one, which is the same as the mk2 astra 16v caliper that is a popular conversion. But they give no specifications on it and the part number they list does not cross reference to anywhere on the web. The problem with the vauxhall fit ATE calipers like that is they all look the same but without knowing the OE part number they replace or the specifications they may not be the right ones and at that price you want them to be right first time. The standard brakes work ok if they are in top form and you drive normally. But they soon reach there limit with enthustiastic driving and repeated hard braking as they get too warm, even on a standard 1.8 car. Being solid discs they cannot disperse the heat well unlike a vented disc. The excess heat also is what causes issues with the standard sliders as the one piece caliper transfers that heat into the housing, melts away the grease and they seize. The uprated sliders Dog321fish use are good but you can still cause them to seize up if you get the discs cherry red too often (not that i ever have of course ) The most common front brake upgrade currently is the mk2 astra 16v calipers and the Audi discs (as Biffy1984 runs, not mk4 fronts thats a typo) they fit under the 14" alloys and give a larger vented disc but also a pad surface area thats around twice as large. So more friction for a given pressure on a larger diameter disc which gives more braking performane. Plus its a vented disc so will not over heat and a modren caliper design that stays working.
  13. Finally remembered to check and that is the right number.
  14. Can be bought from Vauxhall still and the genuine ones have a bead of sealer in the gasket itself. Which is much better than the aftermarket ones, i'll have the part number at work and can look it out tomorrow for you (if i remember )
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