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mantasrme last won the day on February 27

mantasrme had the most liked content!

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About mantasrme

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    Manta Nut

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  • Location
    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
  • Name
    David Howell

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  1. Is it just me or is that not too much to be paying for a car in that condition?
  2. You are quite cheap as well mate, if you can get away with it
  3. I've never seen anything that shape on a manta either.
  4. About time too mate. Its meant to be driven
  5. I think the wavey bits top right are for the underside of the front turret, they run down to the chassis rail to tie them together. Like the mk2 escort has
  6. Well he's put pictures on the ebay advert, of 14 rusty pieces of metal he thinks are worth £350 I can see extended turret top parts to convert to longer dampers, like in this pic and what i think are under turret braces for the front. I have no idea what the long pieces top left are for. Can't find anything like them in the 400 build manual.
  7. Presume they will be the plates as refered to in the Manta 400 build manual, not all of which you can actually fit (or need) on a standard car as some are for the 4-linked axle, some for the in boot tanks etc. Most of the manta shell strengthening is done with stitch welding, there really aren't that many plates to add other than the turret braces and wishbone boxing kits. Oh and if you want to strengthen the wishbones i sell these kits to do it with Lower arm braces Plus an outrigger brace They are £30 a set plus £5 p+p
  8. Still amazed this hasn't sold yet. i know everyone wants the coupes but really its a great price for a lot of car Assuming its all been bolted together well and there are no hidden issues. Has anyone even been to look at it and driven it?
  9. Paint prices vary a lot depending on the area you live in too. Harrogate is no where near cheap for paintwork because they can charge the earth and people around here will pay, where as i know of a couple of paintjobs on mantas that have been done around 30miles away that were just over half the price you can get in harrogate for the same job. Or if you want to go a bit further i can get a good paintjob on a fully stripped car for £1000 but you have to drag it to the north east
  10. So with the calipers mounted at 9 o'clock the cable needs to come in from the bottom of the astra bracket and pull the arm downwards. As its running horizontally back under the car how have you done the turn around the corner so the cable doesn't rub on the bracket?
  11. Do you have a pic of how the cable runs through the caliper brcket to the arm? I can't picture how it would without turning 90degress and rubbing
  12. It does look a little crispy around the edges. but with the availability of panels from germany on the up all the time it may not be as bad as you think. Wing mounting rails, floor pans, chassis rails, jacking points and swan necks are all easily available. Even the outer cover for the A post (around the hinges) is available now. The bulkhead pieces (behind accel pedal areas) are not available yet but they can be made easily from sheet metal. Same for the front of the washer tray area, just use sheet metal to form the pieces. This is one of the trickier areas as its the joint of 4 or 5 panels all in the one seam at the front (which is why it rots so bad) and you need to cut a fair amount out of all the panels to be able to make them one by one and rebuild. But its all been done and there are many pics on here in the build threads to show how it can be done. So plenty of research and do a section at a time until its all done.
  13. For the astra mk4 cable you need to lengthen the threaded rod for the handbrake yoke and add 2 stops for the outer cable under the car. Like this Then the caliper mounts behind the axle and cable approaches from underneath. For the manta handbrake cable the caliper needs to be mounted on top of the axle (which puts the bleed nipple at the wrong angle, but undo the caliper to bleed and then fit). I got a nylon piece made for the bracket to help the cable through a slight curve (must get some more made up). This is how i run them on my car as i do not want the cable under the axle.
  14. The PMC catalogue lists everything they included in the 150bhp kit, although not all the exact specifics about the cam angles or head porting. Which is as follows. 2" exhaust system and downpipes to reduce back pressure Group A head. Ported combustion chambers and ports, reduced valve throats. Light weight exhaust valves 38mm dia, 42mm inlet valves. 10.2/1 compression ratio PMC 3 camshaft 288deg duration and 10.8mm lift Adjustable fuel pressure regulator. increasing fuel pressure from 2.5 to 2.9bar K+N air filter element and ngk plugs All set up on a rolling road. Personally i think the 150bhp might have been a tad optimistic as my old cih engine was only running 148bhp and had the following spec Stg 3 head, very ported and 11.5-1 compression. From memory it had 45mm inlet 40mm exhaust (certainly they were the biggest you could ft without going offset guides) 0.5mm oversize pistons (so 2050cc) Kent OP234 camshaft and vernier which is listed as a 280deg 10.89mm lift cam Tony Law custom 2 1/4" exhaust system and downpipes adjustable fuel pressure reg K+N filter All setup on a local rolling road to get the best out of it. It was a good engine but not the best for driving around town as it needed some revs to get away from junctions and was quite lumpy at tickover. loads of power once up and running over 2500rpm and loads of fun to drive though. However biggest problem with making an engine like that nowadays is finding a modified head at a reasonable price. I'm sure Risse motorsport do them but at what cost? Especally when doing an XE conversion gives as much power in standard form with much more driveability and is a far better engine all round
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