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mantasrme last won the day on February 3

mantasrme had the most liked content!

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About mantasrme

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    Manta Nut

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    Harrogate, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Rally cars, oh and Manta's
  • Name
    David Howell

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  1. I presume it was where they mounted the radiator, as they have cut off the normal rad mounting plates presumably for engine space.
  2. If you want to build a good CIH i highly recommend going and reading some of RallyBob's posts on Opelgt.com/forums/ Not everything he talks about you will be able to use as he's USA based and has a better access to parts and machining services. Plus there are some rare bits he uses for some of his own builds like the early low compression 1.5CIH cylindeer head. But he does talk about using the 2.3 crank in more normal builds aswell as the 2.3 highdeck block for different builds up to 2.7l
  3. At that price its really not a suprise he hasn't sold them in over a year and a half. Anybody that wants to do the 400 strengthening plates to a shell would beable to make them themselves (and for a lot less money)
  4. Well technically i did work on one that was worse, but that only involved chopping it up into pieces
  5. The front floor pan panels i've had go about 5 inches back past the front seat subframe mount bar, so that should let you get rid a of a big chunk of rusty pan. They also go up the inside sill and tunnel a good few inches so hopefully they will let you get to good steel to weld to. With how much rust there is in the car i would say it wouldn't hurt adding various races around the shell before chopping anything else out. Just to be sure nothing moves on you. I tend to do braces horizontally across the door appeture with one from the middle across to the trans tunnel and one down to the sill top with 1" box. I put these in early on with bad shells (with the doors showing if the shell is still straight before i start) then i fix the A panels, washer tray and inner wing tops enough to get it on a spit. Then replace the chassis rails to make the shell strong before doing the floors and sills.
  6. I've got to say its a hell of a transformation from when i first saw it and even from when it left my workshop with the chassis rails fitted. That is the rustiest manta that i've been asked to work on so far (and no that isn't a challange for people to bring me worse ones!) I'm glad you stopped cutting the rust out when you did, i don't think it would have kept its shape with much more removed before new metal went back in. I had to add quite a bit of bracing and repair a few bits before i was even willing to try taking its axles out and mounting it on the spit. Even then i had to jack it up on its axles as i couldn't use my ramp because there wasn't enough structure in the floor or what was left of the chassis rails to lift it from. I have kept the one old chassis rail to show people how bad they can blow open from rust working its way from inside out. The VBOA meet is not like a lot of car shows where the cars are all layed out in one area and people sit next to their cars in deck chairs. Its a lot more social than that and there is more than enough drinking while sat around a fire late at night to keep you happy. Infact its not just late at night its most of the day in certain areas. That A panel was made specifically for the car as it needed to reach back further than normal in a couple of places as the rot had spread more than normal (common story with that shell). I do have a few of the normal panels on the shelf currently from the last time someone asked me to make them one. Its easier to make a couple at a time rather than just the one to save having to set things up each time.
  7. They help firm up the window when its fully up to reduce wind noise. The plastic guide on the bottom of the glass goes inside the channel and pushes the glass against these to make the glass firm inside the door. Without them when the window is fully up it can move outwards breaking the seal with the window rubber. A club member 'TheGeneral' has 3d printed some and was testing them on his car before offering them for sale at less than the reprotec ones.
  8. They bolt to the inside of the door at the top. About an inch down from the top and about 1/4 3/4 along the length of the glass you will see a round hole with a slotted bolt hole inside it. The L brackets go inside the door with the bolt through the slot and the rubber feet down and in. They limit the up travel of the window by the rubber part sitting against the ends of the metal rail at the bottom of the glass.
  9. I think the standard springs are nearer 150lbs, i've seen 250lbs listed as an upgrade. Although that may have been for an A rather than B
  10. I've always used 400lbs front springs along with standard rears, combined with Bilstein dampers. Thats what i've used for Road-rallying over the years as well as my daily driver. Its a massive improvement over the standard setup. For track use or tarmac rallying i'd go harder at the front, but for anything other than really smooth tarmac you'll be skipping and crashing all over the place. You can purchase them from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293656897636 i've used these on my road car and customers cars and they give a good ride height.
  11. I've talked to my TVR mate and he has a few questions. What oil grade are you running in it? When this happened, Did the engine cut out or was it running, but just no power trying to stall etc. Then Is the auxillary belt a single V belt (about 10mm wide) or a multi-V belt about 25mm wide. That shows if it is an early or late chimera 4.0 engine. On Early engines (with the narrow single V belt) the dizzy is driven from the camshaft and in turn drives the oil pump that is just above the oil filter inside the front cover. Late engines the oil pump is on the front of the engine and directly driven from the crankshaft. If its an early engine the gear on the shaft driving the oil pump can fail. Also the pulley on the cam driving the dizzy can come loose or the woodruf key break, which would result in the car not starting as the dizzy is not turning. He says (if its an early one) turn the engine by hand with dizzy cap off to see if the rotor arm rotates. If not you have cam pulley issue. If it does rotate put rotor arm to No1 cylinder and mark the dizzy housing to engine cover and remove dizzy to check if the drive at the bottom that rotates the pump is in place. He's also seen oil pumps fail or just be so worn that hot thin oil will not produce the full pressure. There are other things it could be obviously and it depends if the oil pressure loss and new lack of starting are linked or an unlucky coincidence.
  12. The guy in the unit next to mine is a TVR specialist, i'll ask him if he has any clues to a likely suspect area for you.
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