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mantasrme

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Everything posted by mantasrme

  1. Pretty sure its a piece let in but just not invisibe, rather than an overlap patch. Although its been a while since i looked at the shell in Shauns unit Agree about the roof especially looking at the inner brace it was a none sunroof to start with. But back in the day a sunroof was seen as an upgrade by people
  2. Nice rust free coupe shell available if anyone needs one. Not something that comes up very often. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185247616893 Had a glass roof and needs a little bit of finishing off in places, but is a very solid car as the rust repair has all been done.
  3. I've run 7x15 ET25 wheels and they are fine even on a lowered car, infact i'm currently running 7x16" et25 on my hatch too. Have a look at https://www.willtheyfit.com and you can see just how much more there is inboard/outboard with different widths and offsets. Very useful to visualise it. From memory the BMW crosswire 7x15's that many people ran at one point are et25 7x15's, they fill the arches nicely but do not rub. Think i even have a set in my wheel pile still. With et25 on a 7" rim the outer edge is 3.65mm further out than the et35 7.5" example of evo3000 above. So if they fit well the narrower 7" will also work with the lower number offset. The 7.5" rim is 12.7mm wider than the 7", 6.35mm of that is each side if the offset was the same et25 as the 7" wide one. But the offset is et35 which pushes the whole wheel inboard 10mm. So that outer edge would then be 3.65mm in from the outer edge of the 7" et25. The inner edge of the 7.5"et35 is 16.35mm further in than the 7"et25 Oh and for reference if you use the willtheyfit site the standard GT/e alloys are 6x14" et30 with 195/60/14 tyres so you can see what a different tyre size will do to your speedo accuracy at the same time as width for clearance.
  4. It looks ok but it can be done for less without having to buy from germany and face the import tax issues. I do the mounting brackets and bolts as a kit for £50 and the calipers, carriers and discs are all available seperately from eBay uk now from several places. The 6 bolts he supplies that are metric superfine thread are to go into the original nuts that hold the backplates on. But when i was developing my kit i found there wasn't room for a large hex head bolt because of the bulge in the axle tube end. So i use cap head bolts and new locknuts to hold it all together. In the picture it looks like he has ground the one side of the bolt head down to get it to fit, wonder if this is done for you by him or you have to do it yourself. The bolts in the pictures aren't modified. I'm also not a fan of suggesting you grind away part of the caliper outer to get clearance for smaller wheels. I'd maybe remove a bit of the cooling fin type bit but not into the actual caliper, its that shape for a reason. The calipers he uses are apparently VW and are the same stlye as the mk4 astra Bosch type. I use the Lucas style calipers that are thinner to start with in that area and i know they fit under some 13" alloys but will not clear them all, it depends on the shape of the inside of the alloy as the caliper outer edge sits just past the disc mounting face like bellow
  5. Those tabs will work with the metal frame type of lights (capri style) where the lamp is clamped between the backing frame and the individual surrounds. It won't work with teh Irmscher style where the 3 legs clip on.
  6. looking at the colour of the inner wings its definately been repainted in a different white. Might be Glacier white might be some other white as it looks a bit bright for glacier, but that could just be the lighting.
  7. I thought i recognised the number plate. I looked at it when it was at the Mathewsons auction earlier in the year. It has had welding done in the past to the back of both sills (which look like home made patches over the old sill) and the NS chassis rail also patched so it was on the road and used long enough to go rusty and be welded up again. It certainly looked like 104000miles to me from looking around the car. Both swan necks were bulged and cracking as they were just blowing from the inside out, one right next to th eprevious overpatch. There was also rust visible from under the washer tray front corner and battery tray. Plus the rusty hole in the drivers wing. The paint looks good in pictures but there was spidering marks under the paint around the rear arches and front wings along with some rust under the paint on the front wings. It has a glass dealer fit sunroof so thats one area that won't be an issue. In all it was a good honest car that has been dry stored off the road for many years. It only made £6750 back then and didn't hit the reserve, infact none of the 3 in that auction hit their reserves as i think the owners/auctionhouse still had over inflated ideas of what they were worth after their 20K sale of the coupe previously
  8. Lower rear quater panel repair pieces are available for the coupe like this https://www.ebay.de/itm/224446638298 can't remember seeing the same for the hatchbacks though.
  9. I know its early in the auction still but i'm very suprised this has already reached £3200 when the none rusty early white coupe only made it up to £3900 last week after 10 days. This needs a whole load of work to get it back on the road. For someone wanting a GT/e it would have been much easier/cheaper to convert the early B to a GT/e. Or am i missing something?
  10. I think for some people the real value of it is that it is an early none sunroof coupe shell. Having that as a starting point rather than havng to pay someone to weld up a rusty shell would be a bonus. Whether that is to build a project from or reshell an existing rusty coupe it would be a good base. I know one of my customers sold his tatty GT/e coupe while prices were good and bought a rust free none sunroof rolling shell that had had all the welding just done for half the price he sold his for. Which he is (or specifically i am) going to build a 400R from as it worked out cheaper and quicker to do that than rebuild his car into it one.
  11. Pretty sure the club bought one for that use a while back.
  12. Thats a lot longer panel than i was expecting and will certainly cover all the rust i have ever seen in that area. But mainly it gives the option of fitting the full panel and not having to make a join along the flat section that could be an issue down the line. I suppose it would also be useful when converting from left hand drive to right hand drive
  13. Most sellers want as much as possible for something they are selling. Ebay auctions lets that value be decided by the market to what value potential buyers put on it and bid up to. If you end up as the highest bidder but haven't met the reserve then the market is saying thats the value of it at that particular moment. The seller then has the option of contacting you and making a deal or waiting and listing it again. Predicting values of cars is very hard as one auction will go way higher than anyone expected and the next might make nothing. It all depends on how many people are wanting to buy something at that point. Nothing to loose from putting a bid in at as much as you are willing to offer though. You might win it, but if you don't it hasn't cost anything.
  14. Sills, arches and wing rails are all available from germany. I think getting things done that are not available anywhere would be the best first choice and i believe coupe roof skins should be high on the list for the club as that will allow a lot of shells to be saved that would otherwise be scrapped.
  15. The fresh coat of stonechip underneath (that put overspray on everything else) is always a concern to me. Also while there are a load of pictures, why so many arty shots rather than good straight on pictures to show all the areas?
  16. Whats that bit meant to fit i wonder? Doesn't look right for an inner rear wheel arch off a manta
  17. Its the wiring for the optional front driving/fog lights. Rather than having to add it they put it in all looms, the forward ends are taped inside the loom infront of the radiator.
  18. If its got pink antifreeze in it i would drain it all out, flush it and fill it with blue antifreeze as thats what it was designed for. Have a google search for the exact facts but the pink stuff reacts badly if there is any blue left in the system and can also cause damage to some of the things inside the cooling system. The rule of thumb is use whatever type of antifreeze that engine was designed to use
  19. The motor goes through the hole, the fan blades stay on the outside towards you and are then hidden by the cover. The motor should be miles away from the cold air intake.
  20. I can do you the 2 that go up to the dash vents from the sides of the heater box, the long round tube and a used fuel tank grommet (little bt of overspray but will clean up) i don't have any spare dash vents, but yours actually look good in the photo. Mostly they have one end broken where the bolts hold them on
  21. Hatch or coupe fuel neck rubber? i may have one. I also have a load of all the heater duct pipes, which ones are you after
  22. Isn't the grinding on top of the OS chassis rail exactly where the chassis plate should be on an A?
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