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mantasrme

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Everything posted by mantasrme

  1. No they are m10 already, The inlet/exh to cylinder head are M9 on the CIH
  2. You might find the inner column has been pulled up higher than it should be. Often when people remove steering wheels there are hammers involved which can break the plastic tabs that hold the inner upper and lower shafts together. They are designed to slide inside each other in case of a crash along with the collapsable outer tube. If the inner has been pulled up while the lower was still held by the U/J it basically lengthens the inner shaft total length. So when refitting you find the bearing surface that the upper bearing sits against is higher than it used to be and the switchgear won't fully push down. I'd put the nut on si its flush to the top of the shaft and tap the inner collumn down, if the switchgear also goes down with it that was your problem.
  3. Technically you don't need it to be injection grade for the 12mm pipe, carb pipe is fine as its only gravity feed to the pump there is no pressure inside it.
  4. I've used 1/2" on the fuel outlet before with no issues. Just use a decent jubilee clip
  5. Don't think you mean the GT/e pressure plate as thats a 4 bolt fitting and only works with the cih flywheel
  6. The aluminium T shaped panel is a heat sink for the ingition module to prevent it getting too warm. Back of the amp is bare metal and should have a compound spread on it to aid heat transfer into the alloy (it basically takes up the gaps between 2 surfaces that are not 100% flat, but also aids in transfer of heat). Most commonly known with cpu's to heatsinks in computers but used on all sorts of electronics and it dries with age and becomes less effective.
  7. Normally its the cover to match the flywheel and the friction plate of the right size to match the gearbox splines. The only Vauxhall plate that matches for the 16v engines will be one that fits the F28 gearbox. Did the x20xev ever come attached to an F28?
  8. Years ago i had a car that did that when you jacked it up. They never came unseated whilst driving it, and i had it airbourne over various stuff whilst road-rallying it back then. The dampers slow the suspension droop enough that you will be back on th eground well before they have dropped out. Well unless you are doing a dukes of hazzard jump over a bridge
  9. Looks like both bumpers, spoiler end pieces, nosecone and possibly OS quater have been repainted in the wrong gold colour. The main shell looks like 'White Gold' but they are the more bronze gold colour (i forget the actual colour name). Some better pictures of important areas would be nice, like the daytona check interiour thats apparently really good, engine bay and obviously underbody where the 'LITTLE bit of welding' is needed. Considering the amount of money he's asking for a none MOT'd project a little more effort in the pictures/description isn't much to ask
  10. Yes i think so for a road car, for a rally car the sub 2 turns with power steering wouldn't be an issue. Retropower were talking about getting their own quickracks made up for the manta as the quaife ones can be a little hit and miss for accuracy. Don't think they got anywhere with it though as they are so busy with other things. I know the feeling i have loads of ideas for projects written down that never get any further than that
  11. R1 carbs are expensive now (due to all the magazine features mentioning them specificaly) but there are other Mikuni bike carbs fitted to different bikes of the same design that can be had for less. You just need to know a bike guy who can help find the right set, or spend time searching ebay for sizes of carb. Add a Nodiz ignition system and it can be done for a reasonable price, especially if you sell the XE injection stuff to offset the costs. They do sound sooooo much better on carbs
  12. Yep, its much nicer to drive with the epas fitted. Just checked and Quaife state 2.5turns for their rack. I have one fitted on my 1800 hatch and checking that its just over 2, when it was fitted to my exclusive uprights it was under 2.
  13. The racks are the same on the exclusive/gte/1.8 at 3.5 turns lock to lock, there is a difference in the hole position for the trackrod end into the upright that makes the gte/exclusive a tad quicker but not a lot. You can get quick rack kits from quaife that they list as 2.5 or 2.25 (can't remember which) which you then build into an existing casing. However thay actually work out a little under 2 when they are actually on the car
  14. Never had aluminium ones, but i use solid top mounts on all my cars. I get plates laser cut and weld them to the original ones to make them solid https://mantaclub.org/forums/topic/41621
  15. Yes you can get drum ones with a shaft to go into drills etc like this https://www.frost.co.uk/shaft-mounted-strip-disc/ once they were down a bit they are really useful for the little nooks and crannies
  16. Get yourself a Poly strip and clean disc to remove the paint i have the 115mm ones for my angle grinders and also small 50mm ones for air tools (for hard to get places) They will remove paint/filler and even underseal (although underseal wears them down quickly) but will not harm the metal itself.
  17. I'd try a different oil. While that oil is the same part number as the original and no doubt meets the same test criteria it is much much thinner than the original oil physically (they don't mention a viscosity on the bottle). I put it in a gearbox of a customers car and found it was knotchy so swapped for a quality semi sythetic of the right grade, the box went back to being smooth again. Its not guarenteed thats the issue with yours, but its the simpliest/cheapest thing to try anyway. I think with a bit of wear inside the box too thin an oil shows the wear as knotchy
  18. My mate has an all singing/all dancing 2.3 going in his mk2 escort rally car. That uses a Vauxhall Signam 2.2 XE block as it has a taller deck height so you can run a longer stroke crank.
  19. How high is your garage roof beams? you might be able to make one that lets you turn it onto its side but not fully over. Or make one on wheels and pul it outside to rotate then push back in upside down maybe? My garage that the first/lowest one was used in has 5'11" beams. But the pivot point of that one wasn't right as the shell was top heavy and didn't rotate easily. The pivot point wants to be offset from the mounting bar (like the 2nd jig i made) by about 3 or 4 inches from memory. So i think you could just about get it around in a 6'6" space, but you would need to get the pivot point spot on to stop it hitting the floor/roof.
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