Jump to content


OMOC Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by les87GTE

  1. 9 hours ago, paulmanta said:

    I was being serious...


    This is what I'm doing.


    Hi Paul,

    I thank you for the above post and it does look very straight forward, albeit a bit of faffing around if you just want to drive your car. However, my point was whether we can successfully drive our cars on E10. The way I see it we have three options; 1. Remove the ethanol 2. Find & use E5 or 3. Use E10.  Of the three closest petrol stations to me two only sell E10 and the other has promised to keep E5, so I have options 1 & 2 available but can I make option 3 work for me? Is there anything inside the fuel tank that will be adversely affected by E10? I can change all the fuel pipes, fuel pump, fuel filter and now know the injector seals will be ok but is that enough for E10?

  2. This is the reply that I received from Thomas at Edelschiede.


    Hello Steve,

    I'm not sure, if the seals are ready for E10. The material quality is FPM 75 Shore. Perhaps you can use this information 😊

    Best regards from Germany

    Thomas Nastke


    I have subsequently spoken to a couple of companies in the UK that manufacture seals and they have confirmed that FPM 75 Shore is suitable for use with E10 fuel.

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 2
  3. As we all know E10 is now the standard unleaded fuel at the pumps with some petrol stations, my local Sainsbury's being one, only selling E10. Whilst some stations will sell E5 Super Unleaded fuels for the foreseeable future (I know this is the easy way to resolve the issue) can a Manta ever be fully compatible with E10? If so, does anyone have a full comprehensive list of things that would be required, assuming they're available, to make an injected Manta E10 compliant? Obviously, fuel hoses are readily available, new Bosch fuel pumps are E20 rated, fuel filters are available but what else needs changing?

  4. Spotted this car a few weeks ago in the yard where it is currently being kept. Posted in 'spotted while out and about' on July 11th but it didn't have the damaged rear arch then. Originally told it was possibly being scrapped, then heard it was to be put back on the road and now being sold. At least there's a chance someone will be able to rescue it and complete the restoration.

    • Like 2
  5. Hi Paul,

    Nice to meet up with you today and put a face to a name. Many thanks for the gearbox, tea & biscuits 😁.

    Good luck with sorting your car out soon 🤞.

    Thanks again,


    • Like 2
  6. Herman - thanks again for your input regarding the timing housing issue. I can confirm that my housing does NOT have a 2 stamped on it but I'm still curious as to which car/engine it was originally intended for. I have, however, recently acquired a new pair of gears for the oil pump said to fit all CIH engines. Sadly, the drive gear is the one with a slightly larger shaft, as mentioned above by cam.in.head, and does NOT fit into the oil pump housing that I have. Do you know what car/engine this would fit and would it be a 'crime' for me to have it engineered smaller to suit my needs or should I sell it on? The driven gear appears to be exactly the same as my original in all dimensions.

    cam.in.head - my oil pressure does exactly as you describe above. At idle (as soon as revs drop below 1000rpm) the light comes on and whilst driven oil pressure climbs to 3 - 5 bar depending on speed etc. Oil used is VR1 20w50, timing housing is known to be pretty good with minimal scoring and end plate with release valve is brand new.

  7. As we all know there was a change with the timing housing/oil pump requiring/not requiring a gasket after engine number 20E 0347985. My question is - what changed? Did the timing housing change in size (albeit fractions of a millimetre) or did the gears change in order to compensate for the lack of a gasket. If the housing changed - which housing part numbers require a gasket and which one's don't? Reason for asking is that my engine number suggests that I don't need a gasket but the housing number is not the one listed for my car on the parts microfiche (1987 2.0E GTE Exclusive Coupé). So should it or shouldn't it have a gasket. The timing housing listed is 638100 / GM 90008592 but the housing fitted is GM 90090599 (not mentioned on the microfiche) or is it the gears? Are the gears at +0.2mm the difference, and if so, to suit which housings? Complicated I know but, if anyone has any idea which goes with which I would much appreciate it.


    SCAN0155.TIF SCAN0156.TIF

  8. On 11/06/2021 at 15:11, Trooker said:

    As far as fuel hose goes do the whole lot from/to the metal pipes on the wing, you can get it from here


    get new clips too



    Also get similar here 


    Since you’re sorting it out, get new seals & gaskets too, hardened rubber air leaks are a pain. 




    I have now bought replacement hose and clips from Car Builder (very good service) - thanks for link Alex.

    I have also removed the existing hose and crimps from my injectors and they are currently away being professionally cleaned.


    On 30/06/2021 at 17:53, lamchop77 said:

    Ref the oil pressure, you’ll probably find that the baseplate that holds the pump gears in place in the front cover will be worn/scored as will the housing and possibly the pump gears. Try removing the plate and cleaning up with wet and dry finishing on 500 grit and use wet. Obviously you’ll need something nice and flat to flat it on. Check if you have a gasket fitted or not and check the pump to cover clearance. If you use a gasket on a non gasket front cover you will get low oil pressure readings just like you are. If it’s still the same after all that you can add a few 6mm washers behind the spring for the pressure relief valve on the cover. This will just up the release pressure to open it slightly which may get rid of the light coming on if non of that works the pump gear are worn as well. I wouldn’t worry too much though, just attach a pressure gauge and get a reading. The CIH oil feed galleries are massive compared to other engines, they’re about 8-10mm in the block. If you had a pipe 10mm diameter with a pressure of 5lb say the oil would be everywhere…. I know because I had this problem and I ran with a gauge in the engine bay to monitor it but the pipe split where it was attached at the oil pump priming hole. It was everywhere. Make sure you are using a 20-50 classic grade of oil as well as that will also affect the pressure.




    Thanks for the above Chris. I have replaced the oil pump base plate with a new one from Germany, the timing housing was changed for a better second hand one with significantly less scoring, new gears have been bought and the engine is running on VR1 20w 50 oil. The oil pressure sender was swapped for a new FAE one, as stated above, and I have just bought a new old stock Lucas (SOB706) oil pressure sender to try and eliminate that as the cause. I will tinker with the car some more next weekend and see if anything makes any difference. My thoughts will then be 'what the flip else can it possibly be?'

    Cheers, Steve.

    • Like 1
  9. On 14/06/2021 at 23:17, cam.in.head said:

    just looking closer at your picture. hard to see 100% but that sensor doesnt look like the original type ?

    The sensor, according to the parts disc, should be 08975471 / 1252554E or 09279853 / 1252553 both of which I have been unable to find new. Instead I have fitted an FAE sensor 14560 which claims to be the equivalent. It has the same specifications and M14x1.5mm thread. If you are able to point me in another direction I am more than willing to try - even if I only eliminate the sensor as the problem.

  10. Thanks for all the above info and the link to Herman's rebuild - a very good read. I will sort out replacement fuel pipe and get the injectors cleaned professionally now I know that can be done easily. As for the oil light coming on I am still stuck for answers. Pretty much everything that can be changed, adjusted, cleaned etc. has been done. I will get the pressure re-checked and, if all reads well, just put it down to an anomaly with my engine, very frustrating  😠.

  11. Hi Danny,

    Thanks for your quick reply. The reason I ask about the oil pressure is that, since my pressure switch was moved, my oil light comes on when revs drop below 1000rmp and the gauge reads just below one bar. I've changed switches but that makes no difference. For someone like me with limited mechanical knowledge it's a little disconcerting.

    Re; injectors - did you have the hose replaced and who by? Two places I have approached, one being a Bosch Centre, said it can't be done which I find unlikely. 

  12. I was wondering if anyone could help me with the following two questions please?


    Question 1). As we all know, the position of the oil pressure switch (1987 GTE coupe) just below the manifold is a pain in the rear end. Having had mine moved to the timing housing can somebody tell me if the oil pressure reading should be the same or will it differ slightly?




    Question 2). Does anybody know someone/somewhere or if you can change the short hose crimped to the top of the standard injectors. Has anybody had it done and, if so, how successful was it?


    Many thanks,






  13. Thanks for the above info but, after hours searching the internet, I have now found a new thermo time switch & a brand new auxiliary air valve and ordered them (switch in Holland & air valve in Germany). Hopefully 🤞 my mechanic won't find anything else wrong with the car and I can finally get it back.  🤗🤗🤗

    • Like 3
  • Create New...