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Exclusive Opel

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Everything posted by Exclusive Opel

  1. Finally finished the inside of the tank I started nearly two months ago! This is what I was faced with! A lot worse than I was expecting. The old fuel was drained and left to dry. The actual bottom of the tank was surprisingly ok but probably due to the fuel covering it. There was a lot of crap inside! That's a 2 litre bottle. The process I started with was to use electrolysis. I made up an 'anode' using some threaded bar. One end I fitted a plastic disc to keep it off the bottom and the other, an old piece of acrylic drilled to fit the fuel sender hole. An old rubber fuel sender gasket sealed it all. All bolted on. All the breather pipes were blocked off. It was then taken outside. A long time was spent hosing the inside out to remove lose rust and sediment. A workmate is great for holding the tank along the seam so it's on it's side with the float hole facing down while you flush! Normally you would add salt to make the water more conductive but that is not going end well! So another thing that can be used is washing soda crystals (Less than a pound from Tesco's). I think I used about the equivalent of about half a litre then dissolved it in hot water before adding it to the tank. The tank was filled taking care to avoid air pockets. I connected up a 12v batter charger (an old 1970's jobbie), negative to the tank and positive to the threaded rod. Think I done it for about seven hours a day over three days. Some of the crap on the rod. After the electrolysis. What was left was loose. After this, it was given a good flusing out again. The next step was to use hydrochloric acid but in a weaker form. The tank was refilled with water including 5 litres of acid. This was left for 24 hours. This was all done when it was very hot with the tank in the sun which helped speed things up. Afterwards I added soda crystals as this neutralises the acid so it can be safely disposed of. Another good flushing. Because it was so hot, the tank dried almost instantly. I was left with this. It did flash rust but the heavy rusting was gone. Roll on several weeks later due to doing other things. Then the magic happens! I brought half a litre of phosphoric acid (30% strength) and added it all to the tank and gave the tank a good shake in all directions to coat everything. After about half an hour I was left with this. (a few tiny bits crap still floating around). I'm happy with that! The acid was drained. Flushed with paint thinners and dried. Mixed some new engine oil with some thinners to thin it down a bit, poured it in and again shake to coat all the areas to stop it rusting while being stored. I shall drain the excess off in a day or two after letting it stand. This has taken a LOT of time and effort but only cost £20 to do. Still cheaper and easier than sourcing another tank. Part two in a day or two.....
  2. Aren't they from a mk2 Fiesta? Sure I've heard that mentioned before.
  3. Manifold: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274878676046?ViewItem=&item=274878676046 Carlton: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114879142108
  4. 'Tis but a scratch Ouch! 🩹 Bet there were a few choice words used. Hope you're ok now.
  5. Good news and a Doh! Finised the sender. Didn't end up copper plating first as I just couldn't make it work so just went for nickel plating. Had fairly good results with it but a piece did end up flaking of the pipe but I'll live with that. All back together and working and usable. Doesn't look pretty and ugly as sin but no one ever sees it. The black stuff is just remnants of some anti rust stuff after I went over it just to get any missing rust in the pitting. The outside was then painted. The Doh! part is this: I had in my stock list one from a 1.8. I went looking for it thinking if I could use the sender part if I needed it. Found it and turned out I had listed it as from a 1.8 than from a GTE! Doh! I had a good one all the time with out realising. It does mean I'm left with a spare good one now if needed otherwise I would have probably binned it if I had known. Been reading up about cleaning the rust from inside of the tank. I think I'm going to try the acid route as this does work. From what I've been reading, clean using the acid then immediately use vineger to neutralise the stronger acid (I know, using an acid to neutralise another acid doesn't sound right) and to stop flash rusting. Dry and use a little diesel to coat all of the inside while it's stored to stop damp and new rust forming. After the vineger I might rinse using distilled water and washing soda crystals just to make sure and neutralise all acids.
  6. Wish that was all I had to worry about with mine 😄
  7. I'm going to plate it first in copper then nickel. The reason for the copper first is nickel seems to plate easier on copper than steel. I'm new to all this plating malarkey! The inside could be better but could be a lot worse. There is what looks like mainly surface rust on the sides. Bottom is rust free! I need to get a borescope to see the other end.
  8. Not updated this for a while! Stuff has been happening in the backgrund, albeit slowly. At the weekend I decided to remove the fuel tank as at some point it's going to need a clean up and paint so it was a good time as any. I knew there was old fuel in there which turned out to be a gallen and a half and it stinks! Taken two days to get rid of the smell off my hands. Turned out good and bad(ish) news. On the outside there is a few scabby bits as I whould have expected. The drivers side is a great mud trap between the tank and side. Looks like the rear wheel throws mud and crap up there as it also taken the paint off the tank on a corner. I may look in to some sort of plastic sheild to help stop that. When I refitted the straps last time, I put two strips of flat silicon on each tank strap to avoid metal to metal contact. That worked a treat as the tank underneath the straps was as good as the day I fitted them. The inside of the tank is going to need de-rusting. It isn't that bad yet. The bottom is actually rust free. It is full of crap though. Used Hylomar blue on the cork gasket and never showed any sign of a fuel leak. The tank is for another day. First need to sort this out: Looks like it's been in the sea for the last twenty years! 😱 Could be worse, could be paying nearly £200 for a new one. Sod that! Can we fix it? Yes we can! (hopefully) Scrape off any loose rust first. Put in to some hydrochloric acid (Patio and brick cleaner) to de-rust. Just takes a few minutes to get this. The bits that are left practically fall off when touched. Badly pitted but still strong and usable. Still got to get a few tiny bits of rust still to remove but 99% done. This is most of what was scraped off first! The plan is, when all the rust is removed, to copper plate then nickel plate the parts. Just wating for some copper sulphate to turn up. The nickle plating solution I made myself. The filter wasn't great. The pipe entry end does pop off which makes cleaning easier which I didn't discover until later. All clean and ready to reuse for the next 100k. The resistive track still has plenty of meat on it and resistance checks out all through the range. That's about where I have got with this.
  9. For that fuel pipe. A suitable sized thick wire spring inside it may help it from collapsing. I done it on my hatch fuel pipe on the fuel pump assembly where it bends back on itself and eventually pinches itself shut.
  10. Saw the service book holder on the driver's side, is that an auto thing?
  11. This is the official removal tool if you fancy having a go at making one!
  12. This is from a Vauxhall/Opel accessory leaflet. Handle looks if it could be the same.
  13. I've just got standard solid rivets in mine. Just dropped in, not flared or anything. Been there for twenty+ years and never fallen out.
  14. Aren't those top ball joints for a different setup/spec? I have a sheet on them but it's all in German and my German is about as good as a politicians promise.
  15. Don't know if these will help.
  16. Perhaps an option without the the bracket and nut fitted to bring the price down?
  17. I got this from an A series manual (not Haynes) if it's any help. Doesn't look like there is a spring. Felt sealing ring is greased with graphite grease.
  18. If the float leaks, it could be soldered as it looks like brass.
  19. Mines had plenty of crap in the back over the last 33 years. My dad did use it as a van for his business back in the 80s (even though we had a van), used two hatches to move my brother back down from college, including his push bike. 10ft metal roofing sheets, tip runs, dogs, holidays, Manta parts (of course!) with loaded roof rack when I cleaned my dads garage out of his parts. Had a Manta bonnet in there as well after finding one for £5 in Plymouth. Think it's had a back axle in there at some point. New fridge freezer. It's surprising just how much you can fit in there. Incidentally, you can just fit a Manta bonnet in the back of a mk3 Astra the normal way. Useless piece of information for you!
  20. I used Hylomar blue on my cork gasket and it's never leaked. If the A gasket is the same as a B, I have a template if you need it.
  21. Just checked and have got zero play in all directions. If I remember correctly, the switch assembly is held on by two bolts (or three)? These are tight? Just a thought as everything may have squared itself up and settled down after being put back together and may need nipping up. Long shot.
  22. This is the part number to check against your but you will have the right one as I doubt anyhting else would fit. I can check mine tomorrow afternoon to see if it does the same as mine is new and the car has only done about ten yards since I fitted it a couple of years ago! Old one was very loose and would move sideways.
  23. https://auctions.manorparkclassics.com/auction/lot/lot-98---1988-opel-manta-gt/?lot=89&so=0&st=&sto=0&au=2&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=48&pn=3&g=1
  24. Also make very good kitchen lights The other is a Hella.
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