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Exclusive Opel

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Everything posted by Exclusive Opel

  1. I knew I could'nt remember! Thanks for clearing that up. Definitely go with stainless steel. I have fitted stainless steel cap heads with sturdy split/spring washers and it's never moved but still easy to undo!
  2. I can never remomber this but aren't they M9 or someting? If so, might be a good time to make them M10!
  3. Could be worse, saw a Merc one for $949! Looks like a 0 280 130 220 can be used instead, 12 second on time instead of 8. Trouble is, that's just as hard to get. What your money is getting you: Can't see it would be that difficult to design a cheap electronic version.
  4. Looking at the info for these, I'm guessing it 'on' for for 8 seconds for a temperture under 35 deg. Doesn't look like the original one is made any more or it's just a different part number now. The switch should 'break' the connection between the cold start valve and ground. Either you have a faulty one or might be worth checking you have a good ground between the switch and chassis as this is needed. No ground and the switch and 5th injector won't work as there is no return path anywhere else but you might have a high resistance earth alowing the injector to just work and not letting the switch heat up enough to turn off. I would try a jump lead between the switch body and a good clean chassis ground. They are not cheap are they! Good luck
  5. If you search for RH1327, this can cut down and be made to fit. Not perfect but does work and have done it myself in the past. Dont forget to recover the spring inside the hose you're taking off if there is one so it can be re-used. I have found they do rub through internally on the water pump stub and go unnoticed. It was just luck I spotted mine in time.
  6. On a hatchback it's a captive nut (which usually ends up spinning where you can't get to it!). Guessing it's the same on a coupe.
  7. All looks familiar! You probably already know but you will need the tapes to make up pockets (can't think of the right word!) for the metal bars that hold up lining up. No idea what they were called but it's like a thin webbing. On mine (hatchback) I think there were three different widths needed but definitely two different widths that I can remember. I'm guessing they miss the front pockets off because of the sunroof but you'll need them? Just some random thoughts! On mine, i've gone for a grey cloth trim rather than vinyl but then keeping vinyl on the A,B pillars to keep it simple as they will be seperate pieces so it'll be interesting to see how it looks when fitted. Think it was stuff for old Jags. Good luck!
  8. Unfortunately, those bearings in the link are for the front. The rear is larger single bearing with a separate retaining collar. You should be able to get a refund as the listing incorrect. Rear bearing:
  9. I think it looks like an engine lifting eye/bracket.
  10. The only thing missing from this thread is the A-Team theme music
  11. I've uploaded the QH thermostat catalogue so can be cross referenced. It's in PDF format and should open in your browser. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U1ey3og43JixRTRkvXO7WEFjVtmMj2dy/view?usp=sharing
  12. I think i put a small hole in mine but some may come with a 'jiggle pin'?!
  13. I'm sure it's 92deg. Page 212 of the manual quotes 92deg for later type thermostat.
  14. Wonder how hard it would be to copy the console and make it from thin MDF if it's going to be covered? That way you could slightly customise it, cup holder(s) for example, but swap it back to original if you change your mind. I have made a copy of the rubber cover that goes over the blower motor from MDF but that's a different ball game!
  15. May be easier to make some new ones using millboard as this has a texured surface unless that's your intention re-reading your post? For example: https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1648/millboard You should be able to find something closer to home.
  16. I thought heating them in a pan of engine oil was the way to prime them until they stop expelling air? Sure someone has mentioned that on here before!
  17. Here you go! Hopefully it's all makes sense! If I've missed anything off then let me know.
  18. No problem, I'll sort it out asap.
  19. Yes! Obviously need the rope trick or compressed air to hold valve. I have the original standard CIH valve compressor - bit of bent metal with a couple of holes! I could always do a quick drawing if anyone wants to make one.
  20. I have one of those kits but the full one. Great bit of kit. Only thing to watch is when using the lever, it's sitting square on the round bar otherwise it can skid off. Used one on an Astra 16v head and made the job so much easier as the valves/springs are deeply recessed.
  21. ....there's a dead person! (Sorry, that's in bad taste)
  22. Not tried this myself but something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Metre-Silicone-Rubber-Vacuum-Hose-Turbo-Radiator-Coolant-Vac-Silicon-Tubing-UK/140665187714?hash=item20c04c6d82:g:twEAAOxyOalTX8kF
  23. I have a roll of aluminimum foil tape here and on the back of the label it says 'backing material in car panel repairs' 😄
  24. Looks like it's been updated. Works fine on Windows 10 and Android. If it still looks like this, you might have problems
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