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hoobby

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Everything posted by hoobby

  1. Ian take it easy for a while you have been non stop at this car for about 2 years early mornings and late evenings as my mum used to say " your burning the candle at both ends".your dedication to your car is stunning but not at the cost of your health.rest relax chill enjoy.
  2. The bulb lit for 4 seconds and the fifth injector is spraying a steady good pattern so the thermo switch is ok for cold start. Have ordered a new temp II as test shows its telling the ECU it's at running temperature.many thanks for the help will update when I have fitted it.
  3. Thanks but I have the same issue Haynes test for thermo timer. above 35c 50-70 ohms below 35c 3-5 ohms this is taken across the two pins on the unit my switch (34 ohms below 30c) passes all the tests I supplied but fails the Haynes test.
  4. After much digging around on the net found test for the thermo timer sensor (brown vertical sensor) all tests are with cold engine below 30c w to ground 0 ohms G to w 25-40 ohms G to ground 25-40 ohms I'm glad to report this survived it's welding experience. Oh Jess can you edit your test for sensor II 1760f is 960c hot enough to melt aluminium .
  5. Hi Ian had the same problem on a cavalier engine would not stop leaking so done the same as you have took it to work first warning was the tail gatter who quickly dropped back and started washing his screen then I stopped at traffic lights to be enveloped in smoke when I got the bonnet up found it had spat the whole rocker gasket out and blew every seal and the head gasket on the engine this was due to a clogged breather gauze a very expensive oversight hope you have cleaned yours?.
  6. Thanks Jess all downloaded.forgot to mention once engine has warmed up a bit she purrs so just a cold start prob.will check over the system over the weekend.
  7. Temp sensor II pic above showing 370 ohms at 20 degs c ( ECU thinks +60 deg c )was fine before local company (bleed screw replaced) broke the thermostat housing and had to weld it back together sensors were not removed so I guess it's killed the sensor.would this be Bosch 0280130026? .(pic below) the single wire for temp gauge what is the other ones purpose as this had the same treatment Haynes just says temp sensor no test info for this.
  8. It wasn't the Flexi but all the old steel lines from it badly restricted and t- piece had a lot of crap in it I also changed the valve to Flexi hose line tho this had been done think I'll replace all the steel lines up front as well due to the amount of rusty fluid I got out when I first flushed the lines.i just like to thank everyone for there help and patience with this problem it was extremely frustrating and I got really negative about the car but now feeling a lot more positive tho I still think this car has a soul (female) and is just pissed off for being left neglected for so long like a woman scorned .oh parcel force screwed up and sent the shoes and drums to Milton Keynes as a delivery depot 90 miles from my house but have promised will be delivered tomorrow.
  9. Last test taken from the end of brake line at the wheel cylinders both show 750psi more than enough to operate the rear drums so I would say they now work but as I have striped out all the brake gear and new drums,shoes and fitting kit ordered as old drums badly scored should have it all back together by weekend and hopefully mot soon....ish.and now boing! time for bed.
  10. Ok cheers haven't refitted the pipe it's still in the bottom of my freezer as want to get a mot and give it a run to see how it feels and sounds then going to drop and strip box down it's leaking from the rear casing join and front seal would explain the lack of oil in it.have seen a couple of YouTube videos in Russian not sure about some of there methods tho .
  11. Hmmm while checking the new brake lines for leaks my second surprise gearbox now making a slight droning sound disappears with clutch dipped so input bearing worn? didn't make this sound with ep90 maybe put in there to mask the noise?.
  12. Hi Ian might be the torque converter also automatic transmissions still contain wet clutch packs same sort of thing as a motorbike has many plates and friction plates could be worn also miss adjusted bands/worn.the valve body has many valves,balls and springs could be sticking you could try this got very good results on mine .what was the old oil like black and burnt?."was it worth it" you know I keep asking the same question then I look at the car and think **** yeah.
  13. Nice idea but this gauges first mark is 100psi would need a lower range gauge and for the cost difference probably better off buying a kit.
  14. Ok just for the hell of it run a series of tests. M/c without servo assist 850psi pumped brakes 1150psi M/c with servo assist 1500psi pumped brakes 1900psi Brake valve output 750psi same on all tests so this must be its limit. So m/c and brake valve are doing there job. Going out tonight so will run the rest of the tests tomorrow.
  15. . One brake pressure tester total cost £11.38.if anyone is interested in making this search eBay for hydraulic gauge select the 0-2000psi 1/4 BSP one (£7.99) and metric male studs to BSP select m10x1 male & 1/4 BSP female (£3.39) and bit of PTFE tape.i don't mind spending that amount for a tool I'll probably never use again .t off the brake lines and fit rear entry dials for front and rear could be a nice feature on any rally build project? But will have to get proper seals for the joins as brake fluid will degrade PTFE.
  16. Thanks Ian that's a great offer and will take you up on it one day over winter but what I really could do with is your magic holy hands to place upon my manta,chant those magic words demon's be gone or bloody work you ****** and remove the curse (brakeim nonus stoperati) 😈.
  17. Ok back to the radiator tray so what happens when you bend 3mm thick grey board tried it dry,wet and steam.inside of bend not too bad but not very good.outside of bend....well errr......disaster!!! To be honest already had a good idea it would end this wayoh well back too the drawing board.
  18. Don't kick yourself on this Ian most older plastics will degrade in sunlight (uv's) and become brittle my cougars interior is covered in it have broken so many things in there just have to be very careful.
  19. I had lots of badly corroded electrical block connectors tried using a needle file but was hopeless but found this on YouTube.as an example used the badly corroded 3-way from the rear brakes.Dissolve of much salt as you can into distilled vinegar and allow to soak for a few hours in a cup in this case overnight.
  20. Cheers Jess got it sorted now. Pedal is nice and firm but will give it ago.sounds like you went through what I am now. I'm up to 6 liters of waste fluid now.
  21. Was going for M10 and whatever the bleed nipples are then can check the master output and rear brake valve cut off as well.as you say will be interesting as drums apparently need about 500psi to work and calipers 1000psi.
  22. Yes the little inserts are in there.found a hydraulic pressure gauge for £8 0-2000psi going to make up a line test tool if all this still fails at least I can see what pressure I actually have only problem gauge has 1/4" BSP thread not easy finding an connector to convert to m10x1 may have to have something made up but still going to be cheaper than buying the wilwood tool £90 and probably never use again.the Flexi I had replaced with braided during the tests.made all the rear lines up...I find something relaxing about making them.
  23. as a last ditch thing do you think this would do as a replacement for rear brakes to get a mot..not sure if i have thought this through but the pieces are there...i'll work it out.
  24. yes there on the top...i wish it was that easy
  25. New hose arrived (mapco 3846) and it has unions for double flares..........fantastic.so thought I would check the new wheel cylinders against old both 19mm gubbins inside are different but can't see what difference it would make just a different way of doing things.
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