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About malbasys

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  • Birthday 22/04/1951

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    Malcolm Bailey

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  1. If ever anyone asks about the oil filter, yes it is 3/4 UNF - and the same as a proper Mini, so easy to. come by!
  2. Hello Andy, Good to hear of a Manta A going together as original. Hopefully the attached picture is readable. In case it isn't, the heater valve is on the lower heater connection - the inlet from the thermostat housing. The top heater connection goes to the water pump. Did you manage to get an original set of heater hoses - if so, where? Mine are a lashed up set: I bought some random hoses to get the 900 bits then joined them using 15mm plumbing connectors (York solder) and jubilee hose clamps. They're getting a bit old now! Good luck completing your car! Malcolm
  3. Sounds too simple but have you checked the fuses?. If you still have the bullet type, rotate them as they can oxidise.. Then, could you have dislodged either plug to the PC board - the half moon plug or the round main plug?. Again, possibly slightly oxidised connections - or loosened by pulling sideways on the wiring? Had you managed to pop the voltage stabiliser, you should still have readings, but unreliable, e.g. fuel reading higher and temperature low.. I take it you were replacing the warning light bulbs as the instrument light bulbs are on a strip over the top of the panel.. If you replace the warning lig bulbs, it may be best not to use LEDs as they have minimal current draw and so could upset the instrument voltages. Al just thoughts: hope you come right!
  4. That would be great, if you could let us know in good time.. I'd be really keen to bring my Manta A over - provided I could fit a visit into my work and family diary.
  5. What a super collection of cars, Herman. Was this your local Opel club gathering?. It would be good if some of us from the UK could visit some time.
  6. For what it is worth, I've always used the angled end of a scribe to extract the clip.. They are easy to replace: put the clip in first then slide it onto the spline.. The key issue, howeverh, is to ensure that the window is in such a position that the curved side of the clip is upwards - the last thing one would want to do is drop it down the hole and inside the door card.
  7. There are two 19mm bolt heads on the baclplate, with arrows stamped into the back plate alongsie. These each rotate a cam in the inside to adjust the shoes.. Slacken them right off - then check that the hand brake cable is free - before tightening them until the shoes just touch.. As you tighten, pump the pedal to ensure you centralise the shoes. If you are sure the other brake is completely freeing off, all should be good.. My reason froe asking is that I once had a similar problem and found the flexible hose had swollen within, so fluid wasn't flowing back freely - but then both should be tight. Good luck!
  8. The nuts in the centre of the rockers are the clearance adjustment. If they are tightened down you'll have no valve clearances.. They are an inference fit on th studs so shouldn't ever work loose - but need adjustment ocassionally to take up any wear.
  9. Greetings, and good to hear of a proud Manta owner in SA.. My Manta came from SA with my mother and is still very much my pride and joy - a one family owned 1900 that is still used regularly for touring in Europe. Yours looks to be an early model and, I think, a 1900.. In SA the Manta was sold in 1600 and 1900 form - the 1600 was marketed as the Manta S, originally with Rostyle wheels and no stainless trim over the wheel arches or along the sills, and no supplementary dials in the centre. The 1900 was marketed as the simply as a Manta, or Manta 1900.. This was essentially to Rallye model, with the supplementary dials, wheel arch trim and Rallye front suspension (2 degree negative camber). Most had slotted Rallye wheels.. Almost all SA Mantas came with Rallye stripes although a few late ones were essentially to Lux specification without stripes. So, look at your registration document : if its not registered as an S its a 1900.. A close look at the photo of the rear arch of your car suggests the are steel studs on the arch lip.. The trim mounts onto these with plastic clips.. If your car still has its original engine, the engine number should begin with 1.9S - 1600s began with 1.6s.. The chassis/VIN number is probably on the passenger side B post and, if anything like mine, will be a GM South African number rather than an Opel Manta number, so not a reliable source of ID. It appears your car has a varajet carb which, so far as I recall, was never original on Mantas in SA. It should be a Solex but a Weber is a good bet too. Let's hear how you get on with the restoration - and happym Manta motoring!
  10. I suggest you send the complete master cylinder to Past Parts for a refurb.. If necessary it will be stainless steel sleeved and new seals fitted.. Done mine a couple of years ago: it came back looking like new and works perfectly.
  11. The easiest and safe way to remove coils springs is to use 2 or 3 lengths of sufficiently strong chain (a good ironmonger will supply) about 40-50cm long to hold the spring in compression. Spring compressors, as in the illustration above, are great but they don't fit between suspension arms. Jack up the lower arm to compress the spring using the weight of the car, get the chains around as many coils as possible, using suitable bolts to secure the chains, then lower the arm.. You will still need to separate the ball joint but the spring stays compressed (and a lot shorter) to remove it.. You will, of course, need a set of spring compressors to compress the spring before removing the chains - don't even consider loosening the chains while the springs are compressed. The same goes for removing rear coils- they a amazing long when not compressed - without undoing anything other than the top shock mounts.
  12. This looks to be an ATE cap, although I cannot read the script on it.. If so, try VW.
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