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About malbasys

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  • Birthday 22/04/1951

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    Malcolm Bailey

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  1. The petrol smell: if you replaced any petrol hoses the new ones could be the problem. I replaced old dodgy-looking hoses with new from a local motor factor. Despite supposedly ethanol compatible, I ended up with a strong petrol smell. On investigation, they had gone slightly soft - not leaking petrol or sticky but obviously letting fumes through. I replaced them with genuine Gates hoses: problem solved.
  2. Is the fuel pump supplying fuel - and where from?n I assume you have set up a temporary fuel supply. Two possible issues: moving the pimp to the front will mean it has to suck from the tank rather than push fuel forwards.. Most modern fuel pumps are located at the back. Are you using fresh fuel? Fuel goes stale and 10 year old fuel will,certainly be a problem.
  3. Colours and years used can be misleading. My late model Manta A in Sahara Gold was sold in November 1975 in South Africa: one of very few Mantas sold in SA in that colour, although it was used on a number of other GM South African models, not all Opels. Be bold and put it back to its original colour of Sahara Gold!
  4. 3.44:1 gives a brilliant ratio for long distance cruising - my SA built 1900 A has a 3.44.. If you were to swap to this this though, you'd also need to swap the speedo or it would be under-reading.
  5. Welcome Michael, Agree, a nice Cavalier. The dizzy cap and leads do look rather tired.. Replace them, along with a good set of points and a new condemsor and all should be well.. I have an Intemotor cap on my Delco-Remy dizzy, and Bosch Points and Condensor.. Perfectly reliable, but keep a new spare set just in case.. If they are gapped correctly, the only reason for burning is a duff condensor.. Check the gap after a few hundred miles as the rubbing block on new points can bed in and close the gap slightly. Properly set up points are totally reliable - and electronic dizziies are know to fail occassionally too: much more expensive and one doesn't usually carry a spare one! Happy motoring!
  6. Just seen this so clicked the link: it's sold!
  7. If your master cylinder is an Ate, replacement caps are available from VW agents - same as earlier Golf.
  8. If ever anyone asks about the oil filter, yes it is 3/4 UNF - and the same as a proper Mini, so easy to. come by!
  9. Hello Andy, Good to hear of a Manta A going together as original. Hopefully the attached picture is readable. In case it isn't, the heater valve is on the lower heater connection - the inlet from the thermostat housing. The top heater connection goes to the water pump. Did you manage to get an original set of heater hoses - if so, where? Mine are a lashed up set: I bought some random hoses to get the 900 bits then joined them using 15mm plumbing connectors (York solder) and jubilee hose clamps. They're getting a bit old now! Good luck completing your car! Malcolm
  10. Sounds too simple but have you checked the fuses?. If you still have the bullet type, rotate them as they can oxidise.. Then, could you have dislodged either plug to the PC board - the half moon plug or the round main plug?. Again, possibly slightly oxidised connections - or loosened by pulling sideways on the wiring? Had you managed to pop the voltage stabiliser, you should still have readings, but unreliable, e.g. fuel reading higher and temperature low.. I take it you were replacing the warning light bulbs as the instrument light bulbs are on a strip over the top of the panel.. If you replace the warning lig bulbs, it may be best not to use LEDs as they have minimal current draw and so could upset the instrument voltages. Al just thoughts: hope you come right!
  11. That would be great, if you could let us know in good time.. I'd be really keen to bring my Manta A over - provided I could fit a visit into my work and family diary.
  12. What a super collection of cars, Herman. Was this your local Opel club gathering?. It would be good if some of us from the UK could visit some time.
  13. For what it is worth, I've always used the angled end of a scribe to extract the clip.. They are easy to replace: put the clip in first then slide it onto the spline.. The key issue, howeverh, is to ensure that the window is in such a position that the curved side of the clip is upwards - the last thing one would want to do is drop it down the hole and inside the door card.
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