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malbasys

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About malbasys

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  • Birthday 22/04/1951

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    malbasys

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    Caterham
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    Malcolm Bailey

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  1. Don't forget the old trick of chains: use spring compressorsto gradually pull them in but put chains through at least one coil from each end, held together with nuts and bolts, as a safety. As you gradually compress the spring, take up,the slack on the chains.. Then, when sufficiently compressed, you can take the compressors off - they usually foul on the control arms.
  2. Have you guys tried a replacement rotor? I learned not long ago that all German cars made since before Manta days have a ballast resistor in the rotor arm. After experiencing misfiring on my '65 Kadett when hot, it eventually died altogether. After checking everything, with the help of an AA guy and finding no spark at the plugs, I pulled off the coil lead at the disributor to find there was a fat spark. Then the usual, checked and replaced the pigtail wire in the distributor, etc. and still no joy. After uplifting the car home, bought a new rotor and the car fired instantly. The elderly chap at a very traditional spares shop told me about the rotor ballast - which I confirmed on line. The Kadett had always had a weak spark when cranking cold, not cured by replacing the coil or with copper ignition leads: I'd put this down to 6v electrics - wrongly. An alternative (and ultimately safer solution) to the rotor ballast issue is to melt or pick out the hard wax on the rotor arm and replace solder in a strip,of brass between the centre and tip - see suggestions online. I've yet to try this and am a bit corncerned about possibly affecting the balance of the rotor.. The answer should be to weight it before trying, then ensure it weights the same afterwards.
  3. Really nice Ascona A: welcome to the club! If you already have your preferred steering wheel, get it recovered in leather. The rubber ones are now 40-odd years old and usually feel it. I had mine on my Manta A recoverd by Royal Steering Wheels (royalsteeringwheels.com) a few years back and it transformed the driving experience - a real pleasure every time I drive the Manta. It's your most tactile point of contact with the car. It cost me about £120, and worth every penny.
  4. The petrol smell: if you replaced any petrol hoses the new ones could be the problem. I replaced old dodgy-looking hoses with new from a local motor factor. Despite supposedly ethanol compatible, I ended up with a strong petrol smell. On investigation, they had gone slightly soft - not leaking petrol or sticky but obviously letting fumes through. I replaced them with genuine Gates hoses: problem solved.
  5. Is the fuel pump supplying fuel - and where from?n I assume you have set up a temporary fuel supply. Two possible issues: moving the pimp to the front will mean it has to suck from the tank rather than push fuel forwards.. Most modern fuel pumps are located at the back. Are you using fresh fuel? Fuel goes stale and 10 year old fuel will,certainly be a problem.
  6. Colours and years used can be misleading. My late model Manta A in Sahara Gold was sold in November 1975 in South Africa: one of very few Mantas sold in SA in that colour, although it was used on a number of other GM South African models, not all Opels. Be bold and put it back to its original colour of Sahara Gold!
  7. 3.44:1 gives a brilliant ratio for long distance cruising - my SA built 1900 A has a 3.44.. If you were to swap to this this though, you'd also need to swap the speedo or it would be under-reading.
  8. Welcome Michael, Agree, a nice Cavalier. The dizzy cap and leads do look rather tired.. Replace them, along with a good set of points and a new condemsor and all should be well.. I have an Intemotor cap on my Delco-Remy dizzy, and Bosch Points and Condensor.. Perfectly reliable, but keep a new spare set just in case.. If they are gapped correctly, the only reason for burning is a duff condensor.. Check the gap after a few hundred miles as the rubbing block on new points can bed in and close the gap slightly. Properly set up points are totally reliable - and electronic dizziies are know to fail occassionally too: much more expensive and one doesn't usually carry a spare one! Happy motoring!
  9. Just seen this so clicked the link: it's sold!
  10. If your master cylinder is an Ate, replacement caps are available from VW agents - same as earlier Golf.
  11. If ever anyone asks about the oil filter, yes it is 3/4 UNF - and the same as a proper Mini, so easy to. come by!
  12. Hello Andy, Good to hear of a Manta A going together as original. Hopefully the attached picture is readable. In case it isn't, the heater valve is on the lower heater connection - the inlet from the thermostat housing. The top heater connection goes to the water pump. Did you manage to get an original set of heater hoses - if so, where? Mine are a lashed up set: I bought some random hoses to get the 900 bits then joined them using 15mm plumbing connectors (York solder) and jubilee hose clamps. They're getting a bit old now! Good luck completing your car! Malcolm
  13. Sounds too simple but have you checked the fuses?. If you still have the bullet type, rotate them as they can oxidise.. Then, could you have dislodged either plug to the PC board - the half moon plug or the round main plug?. Again, possibly slightly oxidised connections - or loosened by pulling sideways on the wiring? Had you managed to pop the voltage stabiliser, you should still have readings, but unreliable, e.g. fuel reading higher and temperature low.. I take it you were replacing the warning light bulbs as the instrument light bulbs are on a strip over the top of the panel.. If you replace the warning lig bulbs, it may be best not to use LEDs as they have minimal current draw and so could upset the instrument voltages. Al just thoughts: hope you come right!
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