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Everything posted by malbasys

  1. This is correct for a South African built Manta A - I have a genuine GMSA Manta A. The chassis plate is is on the passenger side B post and there is no VIN number stamped on the scuttle. The VIN number will not be a recognisable Opel number: it is a GM South African allocated number. The car advertised would appear to have earlier style over-riders. Those on a 1975 SA car should be all rubber. The Rallye wheels fitted are correct for the year in SA. It may also have the Rallye spec front suspension: my manual does but I'm not sure about automatics. Late model SA automatics were to Luxus specification, all with vinyl tops. This may have been: it appears the nearside C-pillar has a couple of studs to affix the chrome finishing strip. The key question with a SA built Manta is where was it registered: if it came from the interior the body should be in reasonable condition. If it was from the Kwa Zulu Natal or Eastern Cape coast it will need careful checking: a highly corrosive climate - hot and humid with onshore salt-laden winds. Cavity wax treatment did not come standard but was highly recommended - the reason my Durban registered car survived!
  2. I endorse using Hylomar Blue on the gasket. I replaced the sender on my A series about six months ago, using a cork gasket with a light smear of this silicon sealant on either side and there has been no sign of a leak or petrol fumes.
  3. Turning the switch switches the panel lights on or off.. Th two switches on the sides should be for heated rear window and fog lights. One or both may have blanking plates fitted if you car doesn't have.
  4. I bought a new one for my 1975 Manta A in August from Gruber's Blitzschmiede in Gemany - a genuie nos Opel part: part number 1254050. It wasn't cheap at 193 euros but the fuel guage now works perfectly. The rubbing block on the original guage was worn away - not surprising it wasn't working. If you use your car properly, running out of fuel in the wrong place could cost you that much or more!
  5. If it is from a CIH Manta B, yes. Not sure about the later B radiators.
  6. Don't even consider the Chevy 153 cu in engine. This w used in SA in the Chevair - essentially a Cavalier but badged as a Chev. They wer very nose heavy and the front suspensions sagged under the weight after a while. This engine is simple and reliable but is extremely heavy and a lugger rather than a free revving unit - in short, best used as an anchor. Aside from the Ford issue, the Essex V6 is another very heavy engine.
  7. Don't forget the old trick of chains: use spring compressorsto gradually pull them in but put chains through at least one coil from each end, held together with nuts and bolts, as a safety. As you gradually compress the spring, take up,the slack on the chains.. Then, when sufficiently compressed, you can take the compressors off - they usually foul on the control arms.
  8. Have you guys tried a replacement rotor? I learned not long ago that all German cars made since before Manta days have a ballast resistor in the rotor arm. After experiencing misfiring on my '65 Kadett when hot, it eventually died altogether. After checking everything, with the help of an AA guy and finding no spark at the plugs, I pulled off the coil lead at the disributor to find there was a fat spark. Then the usual, checked and replaced the pigtail wire in the distributor, etc. and still no joy. After uplifting the car home, bought a new rotor and the car fired instantly. The elderly chap at a very traditional spares shop told me about the rotor ballast - which I confirmed on line. The Kadett had always had a weak spark when cranking cold, not cured by replacing the coil or with copper ignition leads: I'd put this down to 6v electrics - wrongly. An alternative (and ultimately safer solution) to the rotor ballast issue is to melt or pick out the hard wax on the rotor arm and replace solder in a strip,of brass between the centre and tip - see suggestions online. I've yet to try this and am a bit corncerned about possibly affecting the balance of the rotor.. The answer should be to weight it before trying, then ensure it weights the same afterwards.
  9. Really nice Ascona A: welcome to the club! If you already have your preferred steering wheel, get it recovered in leather. The rubber ones are now 40-odd years old and usually feel it. I had mine on my Manta A recoverd by Royal Steering Wheels (royalsteeringwheels.com) a few years back and it transformed the driving experience - a real pleasure every time I drive the Manta. It's your most tactile point of contact with the car. It cost me about £120, and worth every penny.
  10. The petrol smell: if you replaced any petrol hoses the new ones could be the problem. I replaced old dodgy-looking hoses with new from a local motor factor. Despite supposedly ethanol compatible, I ended up with a strong petrol smell. On investigation, they had gone slightly soft - not leaking petrol or sticky but obviously letting fumes through. I replaced them with genuine Gates hoses: problem solved.
  11. Is the fuel pump supplying fuel - and where from?n I assume you have set up a temporary fuel supply. Two possible issues: moving the pimp to the front will mean it has to suck from the tank rather than push fuel forwards.. Most modern fuel pumps are located at the back. Are you using fresh fuel? Fuel goes stale and 10 year old fuel will,certainly be a problem.
  12. Colours and years used can be misleading. My late model Manta A in Sahara Gold was sold in November 1975 in South Africa: one of very few Mantas sold in SA in that colour, although it was used on a number of other GM South African models, not all Opels. Be bold and put it back to its original colour of Sahara Gold!
  13. 3.44:1 gives a brilliant ratio for long distance cruising - my SA built 1900 A has a 3.44.. If you were to swap to this this though, you'd also need to swap the speedo or it would be under-reading.
  14. Welcome Michael, Agree, a nice Cavalier. The dizzy cap and leads do look rather tired.. Replace them, along with a good set of points and a new condemsor and all should be well.. I have an Intemotor cap on my Delco-Remy dizzy, and Bosch Points and Condensor.. Perfectly reliable, but keep a new spare set just in case.. If they are gapped correctly, the only reason for burning is a duff condensor.. Check the gap after a few hundred miles as the rubbing block on new points can bed in and close the gap slightly. Properly set up points are totally reliable - and electronic dizziies are know to fail occassionally too: much more expensive and one doesn't usually carry a spare one! Happy motoring!
  15. Just seen this so clicked the link: it's sold!
  16. If your master cylinder is an Ate, replacement caps are available from VW agents - same as earlier Golf.
  17. If ever anyone asks about the oil filter, yes it is 3/4 UNF - and the same as a proper Mini, so easy to. come by!
  18. Hello Andy, Good to hear of a Manta A going together as original. Hopefully the attached picture is readable. In case it isn't, the heater valve is on the lower heater connection - the inlet from the thermostat housing. The top heater connection goes to the water pump. Did you manage to get an original set of heater hoses - if so, where? Mine are a lashed up set: I bought some random hoses to get the 900 bits then joined them using 15mm plumbing connectors (York solder) and jubilee hose clamps. They're getting a bit old now! Good luck completing your car! Malcolm
  19. Sounds too simple but have you checked the fuses?. If you still have the bullet type, rotate them as they can oxidise.. Then, could you have dislodged either plug to the PC board - the half moon plug or the round main plug?. Again, possibly slightly oxidised connections - or loosened by pulling sideways on the wiring? Had you managed to pop the voltage stabiliser, you should still have readings, but unreliable, e.g. fuel reading higher and temperature low.. I take it you were replacing the warning light bulbs as the instrument light bulbs are on a strip over the top of the panel.. If you replace the warning lig bulbs, it may be best not to use LEDs as they have minimal current draw and so could upset the instrument voltages. Al just thoughts: hope you come right!
  20. That would be great, if you could let us know in good time.. I'd be really keen to bring my Manta A over - provided I could fit a visit into my work and family diary.
  21. What a super collection of cars, Herman. Was this your local Opel club gathering?. It would be good if some of us from the UK could visit some time.
  22. For what it is worth, I've always used the angled end of a scribe to extract the clip.. They are easy to replace: put the clip in first then slide it onto the spline.. The key issue, howeverh, is to ensure that the window is in such a position that the curved side of the clip is upwards - the last thing one would want to do is drop it down the hole and inside the door card.
  23. There are two 19mm bolt heads on the baclplate, with arrows stamped into the back plate alongsie. These each rotate a cam in the inside to adjust the shoes.. Slacken them right off - then check that the hand brake cable is free - before tightening them until the shoes just touch.. As you tighten, pump the pedal to ensure you centralise the shoes. If you are sure the other brake is completely freeing off, all should be good.. My reason froe asking is that I once had a similar problem and found the flexible hose had swollen within, so fluid wasn't flowing back freely - but then both should be tight. Good luck!
  24. The nuts in the centre of the rockers are the clearance adjustment. If they are tightened down you'll have no valve clearances.. They are an inference fit on th studs so shouldn't ever work loose - but need adjustment ocassionally to take up any wear.
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