eldoradoCoupe

I do have pictures Danny but can't find a way to post here - I can email them to you if you like.

Why is everyone looking for a fudge fix? I also posted several days ago but reading this thread, its like my post isn't there. Call VMC. They did both of mine for £140+p&p and they are a great job.

You can get the plastic ones recoated at vmc Ltd.

I refitted my front cross member recently. Hoisted the whole front of the car up using an engine pulley and just wheeled it in. My car is still partially stripped so I attached the pulley hook to a piece of box section bolted in place of the bumper bar. Front end not that heavy if your leaving the box and engine on the ground though so I'm sure a bit of fiddling could see a hook attached somewhere without removing the bumper.

As title I'm after a pair of good gte side skirt rear sections, the bits that go up the front of the rear arches. Thanks Roger

Hi, just getting ready for paint stage with my gte and I stopped to look at the wee drain hole at the top of the Swan neck. Seems like a terrible idea to have water drain down through the Swan neck. Has anyone else done anything with it. I was contemplating using seam sealer to fill it and bring the level up so water drains off the inside of the rail. Good idea or not?

Hi paulgsi, I'd be interested in your zf if Dan doesn't need it. Perhaps you could pm me details if that's the case. Thankyou

Hi Thomas, I've a 1.1 Kadett B, I haven't done this myself so you may get a better answer come along but I looked into it a lot of years ago during my restoration and found out the following. The tunnel and bulkhead are are the biggest problem. There was a much bigger tunnel in the factory CIH B's. If you don't mind chopping, other things can all be dealt with, e.g rear axle will need changed, 1100 one ratio will be all wrong and it'll probably blow up as with the torque, brakes need to be bigger, especially if you still have the 1100 drums at the front! Leaf spring will need changed - the CIH one is much stronger (different number of leaves) additon of antiroll bars which probably aren't on your 1100, which means getting bottom arms fitted with the mounts etc. Easiest option would be to contact one of the German breakers for a front and rear axle out of a GT or CIH B, you can find adverts on ebay.de and just contact them. Personally though I'm not so sure a CIH is your best option, the B front suspension is a rubbish design, something lighter would be a better job. Manta ATS 6 x 13 wheels fit fine. Spacers are easy made to fit whatever offset you need though. Roger

Cheers David, I was actually close to welding a 7/16 UNF nut on last night as I found the bolt screwed into it ok but was worried that it wasn't 100% right with the car being mostly metric. Good to get confirmation. Those plates are a bargain at that price too, I should have asked earlier as I've already sacrificed an old bumper iron for the job!

I had to cut one of the captive nut plates for the rear belts out of the back arch a while back and just looking to make up a replacement. What size is the thread? I measure it as m11 x 1.25 but can't find anyone selling that size. Anyone else been here and replaced these nuts, is that the right size or is there some other name for it or what did you use? Thank-you!

Just re-read actually, if it happens after sitting at idle - it sounds more likely a restriction in the return line. Other part is the damper, never run without it myself but I've read many others on here say it doesn't make a difference.

Did you clean the pipe coming out of the tank attached to the fuel sender - could be gunked up on the inside restricting the flow to the pump, or muck coming out of it blocking the little wire gauze in the pump.. Seeing your resto you probably already been there but just a thought.

If the axle has been repaired that could be problem - if a rotten springcup has been welded up it could be forcing the spring to sit higher.