eldoradoCoupe

Also back axle, suspension springs and dampers and the larger cih model front brakes and exhaust system. Really you need a cih engined donor car. I have a kadett b with ohv engine which I thought about upgrading to a larger engine once, it's never as simple as you think! The nail in the coffin for me was the ohv engine cars have a smaller transmission tunnel which would have required cutting out. I dont know if you will have the same issue with a manta A but worth checking before you commit.

Hi Thomas, You mention the electronic conversion. Has the timing been reset since it was installed? You don't mention it so if not already done I'd get a timing light and check the timing is right as it being out can also cause idle to drop off (probably too retarded) which might be masked by pulling the choke. If you can't get a timing light try loosening the bolt and rotating the dizzy anticlockwise a little - mark it first so you can go back if it doesn't help. I'd do this first as its easy to do and timing can easily be way off if not done right. Once its right the carb is you main suspect although you didn't mention if the car drives ok when on the move? I've used a weber 34ICT which I bought new in the late 90's and has been on several engines over the years. Much better job than the solex in that the jets are easily changed and you can get parts for it. There's 2 types of linkage for it though, one for the cable type on FWD engines and one for the pushrod type on RWD engines. My carb came with both way back and they are interchangeable so should just be a matter of fitting the right one. You can probably buy from eurocarb or the like if you don't have it. I have a parts list if you need me to scan it. Hope this is useful Roger

Just a warning, those repro items are good quality but are for quad lamps only. They don't fit rectangular style ones.

I do have pictures Danny but can't find a way to post here - I can email them to you if you like.

Why is everyone looking for a fudge fix? I also posted several days ago but reading this thread, its like my post isn't there. Call VMC. They did both of mine for £140+p&p and they are a great job.

You can get the plastic ones recoated at vmc Ltd.

I refitted my front cross member recently. Hoisted the whole front of the car up using an engine pulley and just wheeled it in. My car is still partially stripped so I attached the pulley hook to a piece of box section bolted in place of the bumper bar. Front end not that heavy if your leaving the box and engine on the ground though so I'm sure a bit of fiddling could see a hook attached somewhere without removing the bumper.

As title I'm after a pair of good gte side skirt rear sections, the bits that go up the front of the rear arches. Thanks Roger

Hi, just getting ready for paint stage with my gte and I stopped to look at the wee drain hole at the top of the Swan neck. Seems like a terrible idea to have water drain down through the Swan neck. Has anyone else done anything with it. I was contemplating using seam sealer to fill it and bring the level up so water drains off the inside of the rail. Good idea or not?

Hi paulgsi, I'd be interested in your zf if Dan doesn't need it. Perhaps you could pm me details if that's the case. Thankyou

Hi Thomas, I've a 1.1 Kadett B, I haven't done this myself so you may get a better answer come along but I looked into it a lot of years ago during my restoration and found out the following. The tunnel and bulkhead are are the biggest problem. There was a much bigger tunnel in the factory CIH B's. If you don't mind chopping, other things can all be dealt with, e.g rear axle will need changed, 1100 one ratio will be all wrong and it'll probably blow up as with the torque, brakes need to be bigger, especially if you still have the 1100 drums at the front! Leaf spring will need changed - the CIH one is much stronger (different number of leaves) additon of antiroll bars which probably aren't on your 1100, which means getting bottom arms fitted with the mounts etc. Easiest option would be to contact one of the German breakers for a front and rear axle out of a GT or CIH B, you can find adverts on ebay.de and just contact them. Personally though I'm not so sure a CIH is your best option, the B front suspension is a rubbish design, something lighter would be a better job. Manta ATS 6 x 13 wheels fit fine. Spacers are easy made to fit whatever offset you need though. Roger

Cheers David, I was actually close to welding a 7/16 UNF nut on last night as I found the bolt screwed into it ok but was worried that it wasn't 100% right with the car being mostly metric. Good to get confirmation. Those plates are a bargain at that price too, I should have asked earlier as I've already sacrificed an old bumper iron for the job!

I had to cut one of the captive nut plates for the rear belts out of the back arch a while back and just looking to make up a replacement. What size is the thread? I measure it as m11 x 1.25 but can't find anyone selling that size. Anyone else been here and replaced these nuts, is that the right size or is there some other name for it or what did you use? Thank-you!