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Everything posted by eldoradoCoupe

  1. Search ebay for universal auto door switch, they're standard size, available for <£5 and available with single terminal, twin terminal, right angled straight, etc. I replaced all mine a number of years ago and they fitted straight on, unfortunately that listing has expired though so I can't send you a link.
  2. Also back axle, suspension springs and dampers and the larger cih model front brakes and exhaust system. Really you need a cih engined donor car. I have a kadett b with ohv engine which I thought about upgrading to a larger engine once, it's never as simple as you think! The nail in the coffin for me was the ohv engine cars have a smaller transmission tunnel which would have required cutting out. I dont know if you will have the same issue with a manta A but worth checking before you commit.
  3. Hi Thomas, You mention the electronic conversion. Has the timing been reset since it was installed? You don't mention it so if not already done I'd get a timing light and check the timing is right as it being out can also cause idle to drop off (probably too retarded) which might be masked by pulling the choke. If you can't get a timing light try loosening the bolt and rotating the dizzy anticlockwise a little - mark it first so you can go back if it doesn't help. I'd do this first as its easy to do and timing can easily be way off if not done right. Once its right the carb is you main suspect although you didn't mention if the car drives ok when on the move? I've used a weber 34ICT which I bought new in the late 90's and has been on several engines over the years. Much better job than the solex in that the jets are easily changed and you can get parts for it. There's 2 types of linkage for it though, one for the cable type on FWD engines and one for the pushrod type on RWD engines. My carb came with both way back and they are interchangeable so should just be a matter of fitting the right one. You can probably buy from eurocarb or the like if you don't have it. I have a parts list if you need me to scan it. Hope this is useful Roger
  4. Just a warning, those repro items are good quality but are for quad lamps only. They don't fit rectangular style ones.
  5. I do have pictures Danny but can't find a way to post here - I can email them to you if you like.
  6. Why is everyone looking for a fudge fix? I also posted several days ago but reading this thread, its like my post isn't there. Call VMC. They did both of mine for £140+p&p and they are a great job.
  7. You can get the plastic ones recoated at vmc Ltd.
  8. I refitted my front cross member recently. Hoisted the whole front of the car up using an engine pulley and just wheeled it in. My car is still partially stripped so I attached the pulley hook to a piece of box section bolted in place of the bumper bar. Front end not that heavy if your leaving the box and engine on the ground though so I'm sure a bit of fiddling could see a hook attached somewhere without removing the bumper.
  9. Hi, How are you.


    I'm writing about an old post of yours - you had some engelmann mirro rubber seals. I'm looking for a set now, any left?





  10. As title I'm after a pair of good gte side skirt rear sections, the bits that go up the front of the rear arches. Thanks Roger
  11. Hi, just getting ready for paint stage with my gte and I stopped to look at the wee drain hole at the top of the Swan neck. Seems like a terrible idea to have water drain down through the Swan neck. Has anyone else done anything with it. I was contemplating using seam sealer to fill it and bring the level up so water drains off the inside of the rail. Good idea or not?
  12. Hi paulgsi, I'd be interested in your zf if Dan doesn't need it. Perhaps you could pm me details if that's the case. Thankyou
  13. Hi Thomas, I've a 1.1 Kadett B, I haven't done this myself so you may get a better answer come along but I looked into it a lot of years ago during my restoration and found out the following. The tunnel and bulkhead are are the biggest problem. There was a much bigger tunnel in the factory CIH B's. If you don't mind chopping, other things can all be dealt with, e.g rear axle will need changed, 1100 one ratio will be all wrong and it'll probably blow up as with the torque, brakes need to be bigger, especially if you still have the 1100 drums at the front! Leaf spring will need changed - the CIH one is much stronger (different number of leaves) additon of antiroll bars which probably aren't on your 1100, which means getting bottom arms fitted with the mounts etc. Easiest option would be to contact one of the German breakers for a front and rear axle out of a GT or CIH B, you can find adverts on ebay.de and just contact them. Personally though I'm not so sure a CIH is your best option, the B front suspension is a rubbish design, something lighter would be a better job. Manta ATS 6 x 13 wheels fit fine. Spacers are easy made to fit whatever offset you need though. Roger
  14. Cheers David, I was actually close to welding a 7/16 UNF nut on last night as I found the bolt screwed into it ok but was worried that it wasn't 100% right with the car being mostly metric. Good to get confirmation. Those plates are a bargain at that price too, I should have asked earlier as I've already sacrificed an old bumper iron for the job!
  15. I had to cut one of the captive nut plates for the rear belts out of the back arch a while back and just looking to make up a replacement. What size is the thread? I measure it as m11 x 1.25 but can't find anyone selling that size. Anyone else been here and replaced these nuts, is that the right size or is there some other name for it or what did you use? Thank-you!
  16. Just re-read actually, if it happens after sitting at idle - it sounds more likely a restriction in the return line. Other part is the damper, never run without it myself but I've read many others on here say it doesn't make a difference.
  17. Did you clean the pipe coming out of the tank attached to the fuel sender - could be gunked up on the inside restricting the flow to the pump, or muck coming out of it blocking the little wire gauze in the pump.. Seeing your resto you probably already been there but just a thought.
  18. If the axle has been repaired that could be problem - if a rotten springcup has been welded up it could be forcing the spring to sit higher.
  19. I put a brace on mine which doubled as a dolly. Aldo supported the inner wings against the floor with 2 vertical props. I tried to do them bit by bit but ended up chopping the whole lot one side at a time. I used a bit of threaded bar like in your pics to keep an eye on the position of the chassis rail holes. The passenger side didn't move at all but the driver side had moved by about 1mm by the time it was done, see the 3rd pic, (the bar started out bang in the middle). Anyway, not sure if it needed all that or not, maybe would only have a moved 1mm without it, but I felt a lot more comfortable about it!
  20. Carpartsdirect had some a couple of years back.
  21. Krausse-rennsport. Good to deal with and with the euro still low it works out in our favour.
  22. Titan Motorsport do one as well - similar price to the Gripper.
  23. Hi Steve, I haven't got a Carlton but I have a 2.2 engine and the engine loom from one. There's only one relay on the loom plus the 2 control boxes for the ignition and the ECU that I can see. I've taken some photos. If I can help anymore let me know. Roger
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