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Everything posted by moodoo

  1. Nice work! I need to replace the bearings in my a series steering column too. Is it a big job to get the ignition barrel, signal stalk etc, off? I was a bit scared off by the Haynes manual talking about shear bolts etc. In practice, how big a job is it?
  2. Now that would be a good trick! Chris - did you manage to find any number 5s?
  3. Thanks Shug, let me know what you find, and if you're happy to sell what you don't need out of the set. Chris, If you send me your paypal too, and a price for both sides of 7 and 5 (if you have 5), I'll pay you for those.
  4. Thanks for the diagram Chris.I need 1, 3, 5, 6, and 7 for both sides I would take 1, 5 (if you have them) and 7 off you, and if Shug is happy, one of us can buy the 1,2,3 set, and we split it as we need? Shug - this was your thread...can we agree on a deal for the 1,2,3 set that means you get piece 3 for the driverside? Either you buy the set, or I do, and we separate it as needed? Fin
  5. Thanks Andy. Shug, if Chris only wants to sell as a set, we could come to a deal to split it between us, so you get the bit you need?
  6. Just caught up with your thread, had missed out since Christmas. Wow, some progress, great work. Great patience and perseverance too. What are we all going to do when you're finished?! Any chance you'd start on another resto straight away...?!
  7. All 3 pieces? Sorry, I’m confused...! Is it not a single piece of trim that runs from the joint at the top corner of the A pillar, along the gutter, and down the C pillar? I need the A pillar bit, and the other bit that runs along the roof and down the C pillar. (shug - you’d have first refusal anyway...)
  8. Hi Shug, I can't help I'm afraid, I need the piece for both sides! But any chance you'd sell one of your spare passenger side pieces? At least that'd get me halfway there! Fin
  9. ok, thanks for the suggestions guys! Fin
  10. Guys, The bonnet on my A-series has started to come away from the internal strengthening frame in a few places. What do I use to bond it back together? I figure I need something permanently flexible to allow for expansion and contraction, else the bonnet will distort. Is Tigerseal the way to go? Thanks, Fin
  11. moodoo

    Steering help

    This one OK? I had taken it at the weekend as well...excuse the grubbiness of it all...!
  12. moodoo

    Steering help

    Hi Andy, Sounds like you're deep in the midst of it again! I had a bad case of manflu at the weekend, but I manged to crawl under the car and take a measurement using my calibrated measuring tool - an M6 bolt! Overall bolt length is 21mm, you see the sump tapers towards the back of the car, you probably only have maybe 19mm clearance the lowest point. If you need anything else just let me know. Fin
  13. moodoo

    Steering help

    Hi Andy, I could get this for you at the weekend, unless someone else gets there first! Fin
  14. I did this very project years ago, not long after I bought my car. At the time I was able to get new connectors and crimps for every part of the loom, except the 3-pin connector for the throttle switch. New ECU plugs were even available, although that was probably 7 or 8 years ago. I might have some photos somewhere, I can try and dig them up if they might be of use to you? Doing the job wasn't so bad, I made up a pegboard on a stiff cardboard sheet, and laid it out that way. I was also lucky because I have access to the correct crimping tools in work.
  15. Curiosity...What tool do you find best for cutting the steel patches out of the sheet?
  16. ah! perfect, yes, that's exactly what I need I think. Good find, thanks a lot!
  17. Thanks, yeh, the other window is actually a little loose at the front, but secure at the back, but not as bad as the other side! I could take the whole window assy etc out to examine, but I'd rather not unless I knew there was something I could actually fix.
  18. Keep plugging away Ian, your bravery is only matched by your determination! Thanks a lot for the effort in documenting everything. Great stuff to follow for us mere mortals! Fin
  19. Guys, I was replacing the door top window seals on my A recently. When I had the door card off, I decided to investigate the reason my window is 'loose'. With the window up, and the door open, you can wiggle the back of the window quite an amount in and out. I can just about see down inside the door. I've never had one of these apart before, but it looks like there's a U-shaped channel (circled in yellow below) attached to the glass, that fits around a rail which guides the glass up. There's a lot of play in the one of these at the back of the door, and it lets the window move in and out. The one at the front of the door doesn't have this play. Should there be a nylon insert or something in that u-shaped channel, to give a more secure guide on the rail? Or is there an adjustment, or something else? Thanks, Fin
  20. Hope your layoff isn't too long, I'll miss your (unfailingly cheerful!) updates! Good luck with the procedure, hope all goes well. Fin
  21. It's come out really nice, enjoy it! On the interior, did you buy a carpet set somewhere, or make your own? If you made your own, what type of material did you buy?
  22. Fair play for keeping at it...you don't do sitting around , do you?! Thanks for taking the time to post up here too, all good info for those of us not expert welders! I'm not sure if you mentioned it anywhere above, but what are you using to grind the welds down, a flap disc? I'm always amazed when someone in one photo shows a picture of a patch welded in, and then in the next picture the welds are completely invisible after 'a bit of grinding down'...it's never like that in the world I live in!
  23. Was in Northern Ireland before going up for sale last year...
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