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barryi200

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About barryi200

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  1. Have the spark from the new starter motor down to poor contact with the bell housing due new paint surface and dirty bolts... have the 3 main earth's redone and the main positive to the starter motor. Are there other main earths I should be looking at?? Have all new hoses on her bar the vacuum.. old one is good
  2. Reconfigured piping to this arrangement this evening.. http://users.telenet.be/jov/opeltuners/injmat/inj_conv.html still no joy.. the configuration in the Haynes is different.. has the delivery through the regulator.. Allwires from the 7 pins of the fuel pump working fine.. Getting spark. Hall sensor okay Coil okay All injectors have same voltage 11.4v and jump back between 9-10v on cranking.. Compression in block fine I have a connector/joiner on the oil temperature wire to engine block showing 6.5v.. don't think this is the cause of my problem..?? Relay and pump is circulating fuel when cranking.. Tried bridging 3 main pins of regulator 80 87b 30 but failed to start. Injectors are new old stock.so should be okay... will I be able to tell if they are injecting fuel by opening the black cap? New seals with injectors and black cap etc..
  3. I have 3 new earth wires on her again tonight. 1 from battery to body... 1 from alternator to engine block.. 1 from engine block to underside of chassis.. I also put the jump lead on the block and negative battery terminal..i ground back to clean bare metal in all again tonight and used copper grease.. Also put new positive cable from starter to battery...still won't start!! With the new earth leads.. she's firing longer than last night but still won't keep going... so possibly cable issue somewhere.. The starter motor is new..it's a high torque 1.4kw starter motor.. Have 3 red cables running to threaded nut and 1 wire to pin under. When I crank engine fuel coming up through pipe.. when I put on either fuel regulator i have fuel won't come out either side pipe of the regulator...vacuum pipe still on the regulator... should fuel not come out either side when I crank over with pump on?? What causes this? The pump is running when cranking obviously. Same thing happens if I energise the fuel pump relay from the battery.. Will have a look at other wires tomorrow.. what other earth cables should I be looking at in the engine bay??
  4. Went at her again tonight and noticed before finishing up that the body of the starter motor is sparking off the gearbox bellhousing, as I crank the engine... Therefore a bad connection somewhere.. I had changed the earth straps from the engine block to the body and from the battery to the body with modern earth leads and terminals in recent weeks..the old straps were deteriorating...whether this has something to do with her not firing or not???... must investigate again tomorrow night I have a live either side of the fuel pump relay and 2P trick does not keep pump running
  5. Lads - struggling to the get the i200 starting... she has being parked up for the last 5/6 yrs and I made a burst in getting her going a few months back on spent a few €'s on various bits and bobs... on the fuel / ignition side of things all the following are new..... new bosch fuel pump 0580464070 new filter new injectors & seal kit new spark plugs new relay new lines She is starting with the easy start method... She wont start on the key. With the new relay when I turn the ignition on, fuel pump kicks in and is pumping petrol out the delivery pipe, but doesn't come through the fuel regulator (standard manta regulator & adjustable aftermarket regulator). When I go to turn the engine over the fuel stops pumping - so it pumps out petrol when the pump kicks in on ignition and stops with I turn the engine over. The fuel pump looses power behind when I crank the engine, and powers up again when I turn on the ignition!! With the old relay she does the opposite - when I turn the ignition on, fuel pump doesn't pump petrol out the delivery pipe. When I go to turn the engine over the fuel pumps out the pipe - so it pumps out petrol when I turn her over and doesn't pump out on the ignition. Hard to understand as the regulators are the same.. well the new one is Lucas - http://www.ebay.ie/itm/LUCAS-FUEL-PUMP-RELAY-FDB501-OPEL-GM-HOLDEN-COMMODORE-VK-VL-/181553195264?hash=item2a4569e900:g:6VUAAOSwI-BWKhS1 whilst the old one is the original. I assume this is the correct Relay?? I have spark.. so this isn't the issue Plugs are new.. She is starting with the easy start method, and keeps running.. She makes an initial burst to start upon turning over initially (first 1-2 sec but doesn't start), but doesn't attempt again until the morning if I went at her again... if I had the injector plugs plugged in incorrectly would this lead to something??? or should she fire anyway... I swapped these around in case I had them back wrong and she starts on the easy start... I tried the 2p trick on fuse 7 & 8 or 7 & 6 ... Would anyone be able to assist?? would be greatly appreciated....or shed light on why the fuel pump doesn't kick in when I turn her over, but is live when on ignition... relays must be an issue if they are doing the reverse?? Would faulty ECU be cause? Also tonight the new relay when turning on the ignition it starts to buzz and buzzes when I turn her over (quite a loud buzz)... the last few evenings she wasn't buzzing, whilst the relay is buzzing, 2 of the injectors are also making a slight noise... earth wires under the bonnet all look good, all new earths... so not sure what is causing this buzzing.. I haven't done anything new to that I was doing over the last few nights.. When I change her to the old relay it doesn't buzz.. What makes a relay buzz?? I'm at the stage of throwing the towel in and putting her back in the shed for another 5/6 yrs!!
  6. Need someones expertise here please lads.....trying to figure out what my 4 pot calipers are off off, as i need to refurbish them.... they are similiar to the volvo 240 girling 4 pot system but its got an additional brake fluid pipe hole at the side of the caliper (see pic) - the girling has a smaller hole for a bleed fitting, extra inlet hole is to link this with one of the dual main inlets on the opposite side. With this link, i only have a single brake fluid feed pipe from the brake cylinder servro to connect etc... the hole may have being drilled also at some stage for this set up - its hard to tell if this was the case... The piston size on this mystery 4 pot is 36mm, which is the same size as the standard volvo 4 pot caliper (38mm also available!) it had a seal inside the piston housing and the outer waterproofing seal etc.. Picture one shows the standard 240 caliper, while picture two shows the caliper i need to refurbish which i dont know what it is off!! - i have circuled the areas that are differing for those who may be able to tell me what this is off....therefore i can get the correct parts etc..for my refurb.. I have also tried to put notes on the pictures, (excuse the poor wording as the program im using isnt showing up the correct spelling...using diffeent symboles for some letters!!) im aware that there are 2 volvo 4 pots - the girling and the ATE - the girling being the 1st picture and the ATE - i do not know what this looks like..... could this be an ate volvo 4 pot???? when i bought the car long go - the previous owner understood them to be Austin princess 4 pots, but there not!! i have a set of these and are bigger in size and the pistons are 38mm etc... Any help would be appreciated....need to get car back on the road for whats left of the summer!!!!
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