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Retro Power

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Everything posted by Retro Power

  1. Just as an aside, a brand new 400 engine is currently around 25,000euro from Ulrich Gerent. This is 300+ hp and 320+nm torque. Considering that a historic bda with 260hp and much less torque is £25,000 from the usual uk suppliers, that is very good value. He has brand new head castings and all brand new internals, and that is supplied dyno run, ready to bolt in and go.
  2. Little update, looking at exchange rates and various complications with existing engine parts, it's actually going to be cheaper to get a new engine built at Risse and sell the existing parts, so that's the new plan!
  3. Digging up this topic as I'm doing some "sorting out" regarding a few 400 rear axle related things. Just measuring up on a good straight 400 road car with no known accident history etc so I can make a jig for locating the rear chassis rail sections on the 'shell. This is now done and I have made a few observations, which largely agree with what's above but just thought I'd record them here for posterity and future reference! The upper link brackets appear to be as near as makes no difference 12 degrees outwards from perpendicular with the axle tube. The upper links are 296mm long between centres Lower links are 16 degrees inwards from perpendicular. Lower link brackets on axle are spaced further apart on 400 axle compared to commodore axle Upper link brackets are closer together on 400 than commodore Rear shock absorber mounts are higher up on lower link brackets on 400 compared to commodore. Panhard rod mounting is different between 400 and commodore
  4. Next question!......am I being stupid or can I use forged senator 24v pistons? Nobody used to list them but now I see that Wossner list them from stock, and up to 96.5mm bore........
  5. Right, well have got a set of the mercedes pistons that are touted as being the thing for the job and they don't look much good to me ! The comp height is taller (last thing you want on a big bore CIH!) and the gudgeon pin considerably bigger. I think Steve you are probably right!! Looks like custom forged ones! Could you tell me where you got yours from?
  6. Ditto all the above, it's strong enough if the a panels and inner wings etc are good
  7. Yes but the girdle and pickup pipe don't, and the pickup pipe is an absolute **** to sort. We have one up on eBay at the mo but to be honest I doubt I will be doing them apart from for my own engine builds in the future, Scott kindly lent me the bits and the cajoling to do one and I have done a couple for my own engines but they are incredibly expensive to make needing a cnc machined block for the pump takeoff due to space constraints !!
  8. Cheers folks, Andy - had a look at those on ebay.de, only confusion was the bore but I'm 99% sure that theyve got their listing wrong as KS only list a 96.5mm piston not a 97.5 (which would be pushing a CIH bore a bit far I'd think?) Will get my machine shop to find out if they can get the relevant KS part, pretty sure they can. H-400, it would be nice to put forged pistons in it but I'm pretty sure the budget won't stretch to it. Will check just in case! cheers Nat
  9. Just canvassing for opinion here, any thoughts on pistons for a 2.4 16v ( frontera block cut down senator head ) What are the best options before going to full forged aftermarket items
  10. Micsmanta that's not what they were referring to. Johnboy had made the point that it would be pretty simple to stick a single downdraft twin choke weber carb on the stock xe inlet, which it would !! Interesting thought for a road rally car to keep things simple!! Manta 1800 dizzy re curved and would be pretty good to be fair. Wouldn't make a lot of power but bags of torque and dirt cheap and simple to do on a carbed car
  11. It's almost certainly voltage regulator. Simple thing to remember is that if it gets into the red properly rather than pretending, it will start pushing water out of the rad cap. As was suggested, get an infra red thermometer from maplin etc as it's always useful to have anyway and you can check how hot it actually is
  12. not really to be honest. Its not really a sump baffle its a windage tray, it removes excess oil clinging to the crankshaft and stops it splashing back onto the crank. This was far more of a problem with the front drive sump than the manta sump. it's pretty difficult to get oil surge with a manta sump and correct oil level
  13. If the cam is already used and you have put some assembly lube between it and the followers it will all be fine.
  14. Thanks folks! Should be at billing fingers crossed!
  15. Sorry I made a balls-up with this advice... Did one the other day and it's half inch bsp!! Sorry, no idea where 5/8 came from!
  16. R tech kit seems good. Not often you need more than 160a on car stuff.
  17. Ps rigging up water cooler can be done cheaply. Water cooled torch not too bad off eBay. eBay Pond pump and a tank of some sort and you're pretty much away. Return water from torch to the tank and plop the pump in the bottom of the tank. Put a little inline cheapy plastic fuel filter in torch feed on mine to stop muck blocking torch head. Mine only has a 25 litre tank and that keeps it cool for a good 45 mins of 175amps or so. Water is maybe 35 Deg or so after that
  18. You are welcome to use ours if it's not too far to travel? Looking at the size of the top you may need a biggish fly cutter which I don't have tho. Still welcome to use mill though!
  19. Only just caught up with this thread! Looing good! Re welding, yep on heavy alloy preheat is really key. Otherwise you need too much heat for the tungsten to stand to get the weld going at the start. Tacking thick stuff is really quite tricky! Presume you're using a 5/32 tungsten. A big tungsten really helps too (also assume youre using a water cooled torch, you'll struggle on the long runs if not) Re. getting the charger position right, you are best to get it roughly right at fab stage then make/bodge a milling fixture up to get the whole lot in a milling machine and finish it off after welding, as no matter what you do it will move a bit nice work, looking very good
  20. As you can see, "bunging a supercharger on it" has become fairly involved! A turbo would be much easier, but that wasn't the name of the game here!
  21. Bit more fabrication work now on the supercharger mount which doubles as engine mount: with BMW aux belt tensioner fitted: Then need to fabricate the blower air intake/throttle body holder: boring head lol my alloy tig welding is improving!! Fabricating inlet:
  22. Will do a little section on the build of the actual engine, another big chunk of hours on this! Acid dipped block in primer, old oil and water pumps used to mask off: Block painted in super tough polyurethane anti corrosion paint: Block bored, honed and decked then cleaned and new core plugs fitted, ready to start assembly: acid dipping leaves the block like new inside and out: assembling steel rods and forged pistons after measuring everything and gapping rings etc: final double check with plastigauge before installing rods: stretch gauging ARP bolts for correct installation tension: Bottom end with modified MLS headgasket awaiting cylinder head: cylinder head stripped, chemical decarbonised, bead blasted, hot washed, new guides, seats recut, skimmed, final hotwash and ready to assemble: cylinder head assembly time, built a stand as I seem to be doing lots of these! Coming together:
  23. gearbox and prop crossmemembers finished and plated, ready to fit with custom prop to go from the getrag 265 to the 4ha axle Exhaust fabrication time! Making up a centre console:
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