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The General

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Everything posted by The General

  1. Ok found the answer! forgot i had the parts microfiche! just for clarification on future posts. this is taken from the parts microfiche 1.8S 92Degs 1.9E 82 degs 2.0E 87 degs
  2. Got a 87 deg in mine at the moment! also i cant remove the "bleed plug" on the top of the thermostat housing. interesting to see inside the housing there is a tide mark obviously needs bleeding, but i don't want to force the plug to remove it and crack the housing, does anyone drill a hole in the stat? if so how big? 1.5mm?
  3. Hello all, I think we have covered this before somewhere else but I cant find it. Can anyone tell me with all knowledge what is the correct thermostat temp for the 1984 - 1988 2.0E GT/E? Can't find a definite answer! Some say 87degs some say 92degs
  4. I used a two pack epoxy resin from toolstation...... It has never moved! Saying that you watch it fall off now ! LOL
  5. @IanMc It's only a cheep one. It's a CTC bizer from ebay I dont think you can buy it any more most important is the V3.0 extruder nossle and heated bed and I use a glass build plate. I also have about 20 years CAD experience which helps with getting designs up and running quickly. Also use good quality media. Especially TPU and ABS the latter of which is used widely in the automotive industry due to its resilience to temperature and UV light.
  6. Just to let you all know what I've been doing in isolation over the past day or so! Also to say thanks to everyone for all the help. I'm going to trial these (if I get chance to use the car) and if all OK (I cant see a problem) then I will print them off for £5 per side + postage just to cover materials, & electric while printing they use 6Mtrs of filament each side. You will need your original centre piece (the white bit) as I haven't reverse engineered those bits. The material is TPU. It is a flexible printer filament like a hard rubber so perfect for this job and the layer adhesion is fantastic and very strong! as you can see from my image of it on the car the layer lines can be polished out on the top edge with a hard buff in a Dremel, but I didn't spend a lot of time on my one that's why it looks a little uneven in the image. PM me if you are interested in one or a set.
  7. .Hi @Sutty2006 long time no see! Yeah they are both in place on both windows and they have been bonded on with proper glass adhesive. It might just be adjustment. They have never really just closed properly and I always close the door using the glass not the handle. I think there was a good sticky on windows alignment I will go and have a look for it. I've removed the window seals and im going to seal the metal seal runners as the sprayers forgot to do this and water drips through between the roof body and seal mounts.
  8. @IanMc that is amazing thankyou. this will save a lot of guesswork Many thanks
  9. These are all great images, is it possible to have the same images with a ruler along side, also can anyone post an image or two of the item fixed on the door, one with window up, one with window down similar to the images I posted originally. Thanks for everyone's assistance
  10. @Exclusive Opel I like that! Looks like another job for the 3d printer and power flex material! I will keep you all posted and will see how durable they are. If they are any good I might produce some for club members at a very reasonable price.
  11. Thanks for that. That's a ridiculous price, but what do you do!
  12. Does anyone know where you can get these from (N/S & O/S) both of mine have had it and it annoys me that the glass doesn't sit properly in the seal when you close the door without them! Strange that such a small part can make such a massive difference! Also Does anyone have any images of them? Cheers
  13. The only problem is they use the hella lamp units with ball stud adjusters which is looks you guys dont have
  14. I scrapped the original fixings and designed and 3D printed my own system in ABS. this holds the lamp unit more central so they are not resting in water when the car gets wet. (see pic 2)
  15. I think this is probably better than any museum car.
  16. Yeah I Have a 3D printer with a heated bed so I can print ABS plastic, and im a bit of a whizz on the CAD as I've been doing it for donkeys! I'm making a conversion for the Irmscher Light Units as im not a fan of the adjuster/lamp holding system. I have a set of 12 bolts, and 2 spares but I was wondering if they are available new from somewhere of if anyone has a source. I've seen these Mike and ive got them on a watch list :-) cheers
  17. I'm looking for anyone who would know where I can get these new? Used ones are generally rusty an look like the above. They are headlamp adjuster bolts for aftermarket quad headlamps. Im unsure what they would have been from originally, but I've checked all the usual suspects (Ford Etc) and no luck. I cant see them listed on ebay and I've googled the hell out of different word combo's. Any help would be good. They a M6X1 thread, Ball end is approx. 5.1mm Cheers
  18. Does anyone know of or have a pair of metal fuel injector mounts? One of my plastic ones has a hairline crack in it. I've seen them before, we're they standard on the Monza?
  19. Might be a good idea Pete. I want to upgrade the insulation to a silicone fibreglass with silicone tape to bond it together. Edelshmiede look to only do a stock replacement and that's not good enough for that sort of money. These were working class sports cars and now have got the "classic" badge which ups the price to megabucks.
  20. Looking for one to rebuild with new wire and proper modern heat shielding, then use it to replace mine. I've never taken one apart so I don't know what I'm facing hence why I would rather have a suspect or known faulty one. I'm certain I can do it, but best have one that's knackered to start with. There is nothing wrong with mine it works fine but the wires are getting a bit stiff and the useless black plastic shielding is split so it's more of a prevention measure to rebuild one.
  21. Hi there. It might seem like a strange request, but I would like to get hold of a old GT/E "L or LE" injection loom that is either suspect or completely baked and hard as I am looking to do a project over the winter to rewire one. This could be a benefit to members as I am looking to do a article for the mag on how to do it and protect it from future damage! If you have one that has damaged connectors (apart from the ECU connector that must be A-OK), please get in touch as this still might be of use. I'm willing to pay about £10 - £15 + £5 postage for one that's suspect or baked so if you have one and its gathering dust then please get in touch and also let me know. Also the rubber bulkhead bung MUST be present. Cheers Bill
  22. She's looking the dogs mate. Cant wait to see her finished
  23. I thought that I had a problem owning 9 of them, but that's a hell of a addiction you have there!!!!
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