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Everything posted by h0tr0dder_uk

  1. check out my mates miata / manta project.
  2. Heres some info https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/basic-ifs-bump-steer-tech.1909993/page-8 and this is the picture https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/basic-ifs-bump-steer-tech.1909993/page-8#lg=thread-1909993&slide=1
  3. I think is 493bhp stock. My engine will have a smaller supercharger pulley to overdrive it, a larger intercooler, free flowing headers and exhaust and no smog equipment. I'm thinking around 550bhp. Yeah - the manta rack sits about 1 - 1.5" higher than the cross member. If you need to lower the rack you have to notch the cross member and make new mounts. Then you have to work out the new pivot point intersection and get a rack that is narrow enough. Otherwise you'll get bump steer. I'll post a pic of the geometry when I get a chance.
  4. Its about time I did an update. I've been on and off this project for a while now. Crazy hot summers (100f) out here keep me out of the garage, but covid has helped me crack on with it In order to fit the huge intercooler I had to remove the original spoiler and a large section of the front panel. I came up with this spoiler to try and regain some of the original design. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1asKWZy9z7hamV3YkjLEcAAde6uy2qhbC/view?usp=sharing Then I spent months wiring all of the new Haltech electronics to the engine (ECU, 2 x Ignition controllers, Wide Band Controller). https://drive.google.com/file/d/129Lec_MqZSvHvb2FgYhTWYaHwP3hydLx/view?usp=sharing Also had to order some custom oil cooler line fittings etc etc. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1biU5Ufd6DYGtqa_1rHhxw_ew3eWtVa6M/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/14DJNSaam7QIUnvGjvMadYWDE1KaQ6Th3/view?usp=sharing Finally today I was able to start it up for the first time https://youtu.be/Mp08nHv_CvA The engine was running pretty rich. Since this video I've adjusted the injector sizing and its a lot better. Next job is to order a transmission controller and wire that in. Once that's done it can all go back in the car.
  5. Anyone got a decent pair of bumpers for an A series?
  6. Anyone got any A series bumpers for sale?
  7. my first attempt at building headers failed miserably. a combination of poor gaps (cutting the correct angle in tubing is a pain), welding the backside of the headers with them off the engine and too much heat from the welder ended in too much distortion. so i gave up and ignored the car for a week until i was in a better mood. then i went and bought one of these cool tools - a tubing notcher. cost $48 from harbor freight (worth every penny) makes joints like this -can be used for roll cages too then i built a heavy duty jig so the headers can be fully welded whilst clamped in the right place hopefully ill get to finish up the first side over xmas
  8. I'm surprised you're upgrading but keeping stock brakes. Didn't that car run a V8? Brakes are one thing Id never skimp on
  9. Its an aftermarket unit from Flaming River. Its basically a 1971-72 Ford Pinto rack that's been narrowed by 5"
  10. This engine is such a tight fit that the alternator has to be bolted on afterwards Finally started the mega game of tetris and began the header build
  11. Not much done to the car as I've been too busy enjoying the sunshine I did manage to get the subframe modified for the new steering rack I also got my new budget TIG welder. Gave it a very quick test and it turned out ok. Next I'm gonna TIG weld up some stainless headers. Other than that I've just been collecting parts and knowledge. Figured out which aftermarket ecu I'm going to run and how to wire it. Also bought a new fuel cell, aluminium radiator and front wheels. Hopefully this will mean Ill be able to make some substantial progress over the winter (if I don't go snow boarding lol)
  12. Welding rust is much more difficult than welding virgin steel too. So much easier to burn through. Best to learn how to do a row of spot welds rather than a bead
  13. you will either need a bolt on conversion (that will probably push your wheels out by an inch or so) or you need to buy some custom front hubs and have the read axles re drilled. It would probably be cheaper to sell the wheels and buy some with the correct bolt pattern. I only converted mine to 5 stud as the wheels I wanted weren't available as 4 stud.
  14. Are you sure that youre not supposed to buy studs and press them into the hubs? I bought some quality hubs from TMJ and installed my own studs once I knew what size Id need etc
  15. New brake discs arrived. A little bigger than the originals Looks better behind the wheel (these are 17s tho. Front will be 16s, unless I can squeeze these in)
  16. Progress report Finally got my newly designed engine mounts made Should leave a lot more room for headers, steering linkage etc. I also have the steering rack mocked up so will remove the whole subframe and finish the welding next.
  17. Yup - been here 6 years. I have some opel parts if your friend needs anything (38k mile engine, trans etc)
  18. Nice. Another local-ish manta
  19. I did some rough calculations and it came out to 9.6%, so probably a standard GM 10% taper
  20. Does anyone know what the taper is on the track rod ends of an A series? Thanks
  21. New steering rack just arrived. Here you can see the narrower pivot points.
  22. yeah. that is why you need the narrower pivot point so that they still intersect the line between the upper and lower a-arm mounts. Then you need to lower the steering arms to suit to.
  23. I'm going to lower my rack by approx 2". I think I'm going with an aftermarket rack that has narrower pivot points to suit.
  24. I'm contemplating one of these two racks http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0013/s0001/FR1501-2 This one has pivot points of 18.75" http://quartermax.com/narrowed-rack-pinion-w-ps-tie-rod-tubes/ This one has pivot points of 19.5" and comes with adjustable track rod ends etc
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